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What did you do for your ford today?

Got the axle under the truck, turns out the I bolts I got are too short for the bigass deavers

Since I need to spend money anyways I think I'm going to get the skys off-road u bolt flip

I was able to mock up the steering and it's super close to run the tre's on top of the knuckle, I think I'll order a set of run on tops and if they don't work it's only like $40 for the one new tre that would make it a run on bottom

Also anyone know deaver codes? These seem a bit tall, not sure if they just need to get broken in, I bought them "used"
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Died suddenly, yesterday... it started died, started died, flooded. I cleaned up the plugs with starting fluid (limited resources on the jobsite) no spark:homer:. Pulled the cap to check the uni-lite and electrical wires started breaking :homer:, I sent my guy back to the shop on a parts run. I was swapping the uni-lite and dropped a screw in an unknown location :homer:, so I Pulled out the distributor and brought it back to the shop to clean it up check for the missing screw and replace the uni-lite.

Dropped it back in today, after 50 fucking attempts to stab it correctly :homer:, I'm pretty sure that my superpower is pulling distributors and not being able to get them back in.

Fired right up set timing and success :dustin: truck runs great now.
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Arickvan said:
Got the axle under the truck, turns out the I bolts I got are too short for the bigass deavers

Since I need to spend money anyways I think I'm going to get the skys off-road u bolt flip

I was able to mock up the steering and it's super close to run the tre's on top of the knuckle, I think I'll order a set of run on tops and if they don't work it's only like $40 for the one new tre that would make it a run on bottom

Also anyone know deaver codes? These seem a bit tall, not sure if they just need to get broken in, I bought them "used"
PXL_20221210_000729451.jpg
PXL_20221210_000856911.jpg
PXL_20221210_000928105.jpg
PXL_20221210_001104646.jpg
Click to expand...

Old Donahoe Racing shit. I had his 8" lift on an old 01 F250. I cleared 38's with tons of room. Rode awesome though.

If I had to guess, those are for 6" of lift. Should clear 37s.
 
Got Excursion back from the shop after failing to figure out the misfire and coolant loss.

Passed a coolant pressure test and a hydrocarbon test. No reason found for the coolant loss. I had them change the #5 plug since I didnt have a long enough extension and it seems to have cleared up the misfire.

Next up is a windshield, new headlights, and some 4 or 6" lift springs. At some point it'll get headers/exhaust and 4.56 gears.
 
Took the highboy out for a cruise, been a while since it left the driveway.

More lighting changes for the DD, replaced the useless stock fog lights with some Vision X light cannons now I'm eagerly waiting for it to get dark to see if they were worth the money.

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Had a really busy week and weekend but only found about two hours to work on the truck at all. This was a northern plow truck so I'm fighting rust every step of the way. My goal was to get the rest of the plow equipment off the truck, stripped all that wiring out and back to "stockish" the lights are working again and even the dome light came on.

Remaining bits of the plow frame got cut out and some new rust problems revealed themselves. The rear axle spring hangers were replaced at some point but it looks like I get to do the fronts, and the cab mounts/cross member is pretty well gone. Driver's side is almost on the frame.
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So I was doing more steering eyeballing and googling

Are gm 1 ton tre's and super duty tre's the same taper? That's what I'm seeing so far :confused:

If that's the case I'm thinking of going gm y link straight tie rod and then the stock curved drag link
 
Arickvan said:
Are gm 1 ton tre's and super duty tre's the same taper?
Click to expand...
all are 7 degrees, car/truck doesn't matter
the functional diameter does vary wildly however

pretty much "if it tightens in there without bottoming out the nut it'll be safe to use"
 
[486] said:
all are 7 degrees, car/truck doesn't matter
the functional diameter does vary wildly however

pretty much "if it tightens in there without bottoming out the nut it'll be safe to use"
Click to expand...
Even for import shit?

Is there an SAE standard for them?
 
arse_sidewards said:
Even for import shit?

Is there an SAE standard for them?
Click to expand...
Everything I've touched.

Lots of stuff is 'metric in name only' with strange decimal values that translate over to perfectly sensible numbers in inches.
See also, degrees minutes and seconds are pretty universal. Only nerds use radians.
 
GM taper is 1.5"/Foot

Math says tan-1(12/1.5) = 0.1240929 radians (or 7.11 degrees for non-nerds) :flipoff2:

Definitely NOT the same taper as my 1994 D60
 
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Been chipping away at repairing my uncle's ranchero. He got rear ended by a douche with no insurance. It's not worth fixing, but he's stubborn and sentimental, it belonged to my grandfather, so we're doing it. The left side was pushed forward 3", ending up at the bulkhead. The right bedside was pulled to the left like 1.5" The triangle pull did the trick
 
Did an experiment with the rear two body-mount points with composite decking material.

Before:
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After:
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Composite decking material I used:
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Doing this completely eliminated body creaking!:smokin:

Will definitely be replacing the body mounts this Spring.
 
Projectjunkie said:
Been chipping away at repairing my uncle's ranchero. He got rear ended by a douche with no insurance. It's not worth fixing, but he's stubborn and sentimental, it belonged to my grandfather, so we're doing it. The left side was pushed forward 3", ending up at the bulkhead. The right bedside was pulled to the left like 1.5" The triangle pull did the trick
Click to expand...
nice

thinking about backhalfing a VW with a fabricated 'logger's box' style deal on the back
maybe worth doing similar to that guy, replace the smashed sheetmetal with square tube expanded metal and diamond plate.
 
[486] said:
nice

thinking about backhalfing a VW with a fabricated 'logger's box' style deal on the back
maybe worth doing similar to that guy, replace the smashed sheetmetal with square tube expanded metal and diamond plate.
Click to expand...


Nah, we've got a quarter panel from the junkyard, going to hone my body work skills
 
I tried to get this crummy Harley Davidson sticker off the back window to not avail. Razor scrapers didn't touch it. I'm not sure what my next move is.
 
Gonna be getting snow so checked over the old F250. Went to crank and got nothing at the key. Battery reads 12.35. Huh. Tossed a charge on it and it and tried again but it just made the solenoid sound like it was grinding. Connected another questionable battery by jumper cables and got it to crank the slowest I've ever heard.

Found that my battery dropped to 10ish volts when cranking and my solenoid to starter wire crumbling. So cleaned all connections, replaced the wire to the starter and put in a known good battery. Cranked up like it was supposed to!

The battery that was in it was too small anyway. It was out of my yj and didn't really like cold starting a tight FE.

Edit: pic added now that its light. 1219221056.jpg
 
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