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What did you do for your ford today?

Gonna be getting snow so checked over the old F250. Went to crank and got nothing at the key. Battery reads 12.35. Huh. Tossed a charge on it and it and tried again but it just made the solenoid sound like it was grinding. Connected another questionable battery by jumper cables and got it to crank the slowest I've ever heard.

Found that my battery dropped to 10ish volts when cranking and my solenoid to starter wire crumbling. So cleaned all connections, replaced the wire to the starter and put in a known good battery. Cranked up like it was supposed to!

The battery that was in it was too small anyway. It was out of my yj and didn't really like cold starting a tight FE.
Having similar issue.

Battery is 4y.o. Walmart brand/starter is 4y.o. econo replacement that's dying.
Also dealing with temps below 20*.
 
Couple weeks ago I fired up the 67 Bronco for the first time (in probably over 15 years; I've only had it for 1).. but the fuel pump leaked and I never got to hear it run. Yesterday, went back to my buddy's house where he's helping me work on it. New fuel pump, fired right up and sounds good:

 
So all my steering parts have come in and I've got some news, I think either someone mention it here or maybe I saw it on another site, but the taper between gm 1ton tre and super duty tre may be the same but the depth is different

PXL_20221224_224726762.jpg

This 02 super duty tre only sites about an 1/8" into the hole before binding

PXL_20221224_224943209.jpg

The super duty tre starts at 3/4"-ish (seen above)
PXL_20221224_224921199.jpg

Whereas the gm 1 ton tre starts less than 3/4" and widens to 3/4" at about a 1/4" of depth

So long story short... Looks like I need to buy a reamer
 
Also neither the gm tres or the super duty drag link tre drop into the taper onto the knuckle :laughing: needs some reaming as well
 
I had to use 3/4" thick washers on my 1ton TRE swap.

All Ford parts for E/F-350; but the castle nut went way pass the cotter pin hole, so I used said washers to fill the space. :laughing::homer:
 
Put brakes on the rear of the woman's Fusion, she's been complaining about them making noise for a month or two, looks like I could've bent the squealer tab and gotten another 6 months. While I was under there I found one of the rear shocks is leaking so I ordered some of those too.

Aired up the one tire that intermittently leaks on the highboy, haven't put any effort into figuring out why it does what it does. Sometimes it's good for a month or two, sometimes it's flat in a couple days.
 
Why? Isn't that getting way too close to critical mass on losing the bead?
Good question; and technically correct.

Because:
1) Each D-rated rear tire is good for 3,750lbs/max air pressure cold is 50PSI.
2) Bronco rear (axle) weighs in at 4,100lbs as per CAT scale.

I aired down until entire tread width contacts the ground at cold PSI.


nOOB question:
Is said rated weight measured at max PSI?🤔😬
 
If the voltage on the battery reads right when off/running/etc then do the starter first.
Ok; I'll measure when off.:beer:

Measured when running (a couple days ago): 13.5v~
Ambient temp. outside at time of testing: 52*

Before starting/not charged or battery-maintained: 12.4v~✔️

I'll test again tomorrow morning when the temp. is in the 20s.
 
Aired up the one tire that intermittently leaks on the highboy, haven't put any effort into figuring out why it does what it does. Sometimes it's good for a month or two, sometimes it's flat in a couple days.

Had an old set of bfg's that would do that. They were old enough that they were cracking a lil. And if I parked just right on one of the cracks it would slowly leak. Never woulda found it if I hadnt accidently parked in a puddle one day.
 
Ambient temp. outside at time of testing: 37*

Just retested: 12.4v✔️
Seems good to me. Not sure what's leading to all the monitoring/replacement of starter etc but when was the last time you replaced the battery/starter/ground cables?

I remember on a Bronco I built from the frame up with all new engine, starter, wiring, etc I started to have intermittent starter issues less than a year later. Replaced starter, solenoid, had battery and alternator checked out.. finally replaced the battery/starter/ground cables.. after cutting it open and inspecting I found the starter cable had a surprising amount of corrosion and build up on the inside.
 
Seems good to me. Not sure what's leading to all the monitoring/replacement of starter etc but when was the last time you replaced the battery/starter/ground cables?

I remember on a Bronco I built from the frame up with all new engine, starter, wiring, etc I started to have intermittent starter issues less than a year later. Replaced starter, solenoid, had battery and alternator checked out.. finally replaced the battery/starter/ground cables.. after cutting it open and inspecting I found the starter cable had a surprising amount of corrosion and build up on the inside.
Battery: Spring of '19
Starter and starter relay: Summer of '19
Cables: Spring '20

Starter issues:
Replaced the starter in June '19.
Worked fine for the first eight months, but then in the Spring of '20 it started acting up.
First; wiggling the cable wires at the starter, when it acted up, worked.
So I replaced the pos/neg/ground cables with OEM.
Intermittently since then; starter still act up (wiggle the wire=starts up).
This past Summer ('22), after wiggling the wires failed, I grabbed the solenoid. It wiggled. :mad3:🙁
I've been nursing this ChiCom OEM POS starter; wanting to get my $63 worth out of it.:laughing::homer:


The battery is also coming up on it's 4th year of date.
My experience since living up here is every old battery I've owned shows it's age during the Winter.

That's why it's a 'Is it a battery issue or a starter issue?' question.
 
Not going to make any significant progress before my next longerish work trip, so prepped for storage and moved a couple of them out of the driveway and into the yard.

Going to try out an actual rv cover this time instead of tarps, going to try out the tire covers for the 350 and sheet the interior.

Wife wants the 250 "just in case" so it will get the yard and a 50w solar tender to hopefully keep the battery topped off. The 100w works great for the rv so I'm sticking with renogy brand Chinese stuff again.

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