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What did you do for your ford today?

Got a permanent mount set up for the sway bar:
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They're Prothane factory replacement bushings.
 
CDA 455 II said:
That's my Spring project.:beer:

Is that starter model #9603?
What's it going in?
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It is. The engine in my 96 bronco. Got it in, everything checked out for tolerance, accept I didn't spin the engine over and check multiple spots. Had .100 between the starter gear and ring gear on the spot I checked. When I put a load on it I can hear it's touching barely. Gotta pull it and add the provided shim. I'm a :homer:
 
Wheelin66bronco said:
It is. The engine in my 96 bronco. Got it in, everything checked out for tolerance, accept I didn't spin the engine over and check multiple spots. Had .100 between the starter gear and ring gear on the spot I checked. When I put a load on it I can hear it's touching barely. Gotta pull it and add the provided shim. I'm a :homer:
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I'm looking at the XS Torque.

There's one with 3/8" offset and one with 3/4" offset.
WHICH ONE DO I WANT/NEED?:confused:

I have a '94 5.0L Bronco.
 
Tore apart the carb on the Bronco to rebuild it and found corrosion and possibly rust inside the fuel bowls, secondary metering plate and main body. It had been sitting in Nor Cal for 10 years at my Aunt's ranch prior to me getting it 4 1/2 years ago. Old carb was a basic single feed Holley 4160 600cfm that was close to 20 years old, new carb is a dual feed 4160 600cfm.

I changed to smaller jets for higher altitude (from 65s to 62s), installed the dual feed line and pressure gauge, made fuel lines from the pump to filter and from filter to carb, cleaned and painted the manifold, then installed it all. I still need to drain the ancient gas out of both tanks and hope the battery will take a charge (it hasn't ran for 4 years), change the oil & filter, and a few other little details then get it running and driving again.

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Finally got my 99-04 Dana 60 back together, new seals all the way around, new knuckle ball joints, new unit bearings and threw on a diff cover for a stalled project

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I cut off the track bar mount so I can run straight y link steering instead of the super low stock stuff

Not sure if I can run the tre's facing up or down on the knuckles yet tho, I'll have to get everything halfway mounted to really see
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67 Bronco: fired it up for the first time! Need to bleed the brakes, get a new fuel pump, button up some things. Then install the 2.5” lift and check everything over before I drive it home. Will probably be a few weeks due to holidays and family visiting etc.

78 F150: finished the wiring for the vintage air install; still need to install the Saginaw ps pump but that’ll have to wait as I need the truck to pick up a Christmas tree and a dump run. Have a new alpine Bluetooth stereo on the way for it which should power the full range 6.5” door speakers better (I have some low powered base model right now that sounds like shit).
 
Grabbed a couple of intercoolers because they were easy to get.

Truck has never really made boost but has always made turbo noises. Everybody always says "boost leaks" when ive asked about it.

Truck was sandwiched 10 years ago so it god have a busted cooler

I did have to pull the inlet charge pipe a few weeks ago and it has a very nasty dent from the ps pump fitting. Couldnt tell if it was punctured or not, but ill grab a replacement and boots next time in sac.

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reptillikus said:
Specs on tires/wheels?

I really want a set of the OEM 16" Alcoas for my F250, but I can't find any in good shape. That looks good though. Procomp wheels?
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The factory Alcoa’s are a nice option too, but hard to come by. On this I wanted wheels with more “poke” and 17’s have more tire options, these are 17x9 4.5” bs American Racing Baja’s, tires are half worn 35x12.50’s
 
I like the stance. My plan was to go in the other direction tho, go down from 35s to 33s. I like the idea that the tires for 16s have a higher load rating than 17s or 18s. But maybe I'm also just trying to convince myself that I don't want 17s.

Either way, dig your ride :smokin:
 
reptillikus said:
I like the stance. My plan was to go in the other direction tho, go down from 35s to 33s. I like the idea that the tires for 16s have a higher load rating than 17s or 18s. But maybe I'm also just trying to convince myself that I don't want 17s.

Either way, dig your ride :smokin:
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Thanks! It’s leveled with f350 front springs, stock f250 rear suspension
 
In the process of creating/building a 3rd leg for the camper using a RV bumper hitch.
I currently have a 2-point hoist/it works; but because I have to lift the camper so high, it makes me nervous...:eek:

This Spring I'm going to replace the body mounts and want an easier/safer/faster way to remove the camper.
 
Pulled the flat bed off of the 97 and sold it off. The starter didn't sound quite right trying to fire up the 460, so my son helped steer while I pulled it around the house and we tucked it into the garage. It'll be a tight fit for a while but I have a little space in the front to get some work done.

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CDA 455 II said:
Did another round today.

That makes a total of 5X.
I got enough for one more round with the quart I started with.
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Did another round today
That makes a total of 6X.

nOOB tech question:
While at engine idle/in park/while stopped at a stoplight; does the PS fluid still flow/get pumped through the PS system?
 
Arickvan said:
Finally got my 99-04 Dana 60 back together, new seals all the way around, new knuckle ball joints, new unit bearings and threw on a diff cover for a stalled project

Not sure if I can run the tre's facing up or down on the knuckles yet tho, I'll have to get everything halfway mounted to really see
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Yes can ream knuckle for TROver. Cheby TRE taper is a bit larger so you can get a full taper in the other direction no hourglass.

The Y-link TRE setup will roll the TR back and forth unless drag link is flat. Else high steer arm from Sky's.
 
rattle_snake said:
Yes can ream knuckle for TROver. Cheby TRE taper is a bit larger so you can get a full taper in the other direction no hourglass.

The Y-link TRE setup will roll the TR back and forth unless drag link is flat. Else high steer arm from Sky's.
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I just need to check the clearance to the leaf springs whether I run it on top of the knuckle or bottom, I ain't spending all that money on fancy high queer stuff! :flipoff2:
 
CDA 455 II said:
Did another round today
That makes a total of 6X.

nOOB tech question:
While at engine idle/in park/while stopped at a stoplight; does the PS fluid still flow/get pumped through the PS system?
Click to expand...
It just goes through bypass, if you aren't turning the wheel left amd right, it won't run all the way through the box, so the steering box can hold air if it doesn't get maxed both directions
 
Put in a new Alpine Bluetooth stereo in the 78 F150.. huuuuuge difference in sound quality. The 6.5” Inifiniti speakers are loud and clear again (I had replaced the stereo it came with and the replacement was shitty).

Drove it to get some lumber to build a dolly for the 75 f250 cab. Fixed the lean tip-in from idle with a delay valve before the EGR. Drives great now!
 
Cobbled together a better dolly set-up for the 75 cab, pushed it out into the driveway to vacuum/wash it up a bit. It's insane how much gravel, sand, pine needles, feathers, and other bullshit was crammed into the nooks and crannies of this thing. This project is a very slow-burn.

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