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What did you do for your ford today?

Been researching Coyote vs Godzilla weighing costs, ease, availability etc. I'm a few years away from this this but I can still obsess right?

The Godzilla swap just seems so damn expensive even if I go with the Infamous Project pullout (Ford 7.3 Godzilla V8 Motor Swap Package - The Infamous Project) for $9100 and use the 2wd transmission it comes with. I would still need to adapt it to a 205, get a controller for it, etc $$$.

I can get a 2015-2017 5.0 Coyote, 6r80 with 4x4 pullout at The Parts Farm (2015-2017 FORD F150 COYOTE 5.0 ENGINE AUTOMATIC TRANS 6r80 4x4 F-150 5.0L) starting at $7000. It looks like adding the transfercase is an option so that'll be extra money, $1000 if I want it to be a running drivetrain on a pallet (gauges, theft control/PATs removed, throttle pedal), plus delivery.

The Godzilla in my opinion is a cooler motor, probably more bulletproof, and cheaper to make power with from what I've seen but 400 (or close to it) horsepower is plenty for me. I just want enough power to turn 40's, fuel injection, and overdrive to maximize MPG.

There's always the 460/E4OD option but I don't think I can put that together with fuel injection for less than getting into a Coyote (I don't have one lying around and people don't let them go for cheap around here).

This is all going into a 75 F250 2wd longbed frame (to be shortened, made 4x4, with 1-tons).

Anyway, there's the Ford thought-dump for the weekend.
 
It all comes down to how much work you wanna do.

$500 for a rotted out motorhome with a 460, junk the body for $500 and a lot of labor (a whole lot less if you have heavy equiment with a thumb or grapple), $3000 and a year of one evening a week in "rebuild and make it nice with aftermarket parts while I'm at it" costs. Another year and grand tinkering with fuel injection.

Or just buy a swap package for about double the cost and spend a lot less time.
 
arse_sidewards said:
It all comes down to how much work you wanna do.

$500 for a rotted out motorhome with a 460, junk the body for $500 and a lot of labor (a whole lot less if you have heavy equiment with a thumb or grapple), $3000 and a year of one evening a week in "rebuild and make it nice with aftermarket parts while I'm at it" costs. Another year and grand tinkering with fuel injection.

Or just buy a swap package for about double the cost and spend a lot less time.
Click to expand...
Rotted out motor homes around these parts are mobile beach-front property and go for like-prices! I've only ever built a motor myself once and it was with a lot of expert guidance that's no longer with us. Adding up the costs of what I would end up doing "because why not while I'm in there" starts to get pretty expensive. But yeah I might have to give that a second look. rattle_snake 's 460+6r80 swap has really sparked some ideas and if I'm in no rush to do the powertrain project maybe hunting for parts and building a 460 over time wouldn't hurt the bank so much as dropping a large sum on a swap package.
 
Well, I appear to be the official IBB 7.3 naysayer but the 5.0/6R80 is the king of late model Ford swaps and I don't see it being dethroned anytime soon. The thing about the 7.3 is it just isn't installed in nearly as many vehicles, the junkyard swap angle is never going to get as cheap as the 5.0. Yeah the 7.3 can make big power but when you're spending 20k to do it, so does everything else. I can go pick up a 5.0 from B&R tomorrow for 4k, closest junkyard 7.3 to me is 9500 bucks. The 5.0 still ends up being a 10-15k swap but it's got a 5-6000 dollar head start on the 7.3

Both are out of my budget, I'll be running a carbed 460 and an NP435 till the end of time unless I come across an EFI 460/ZF5 donor.
 
Just to throw another option out there I might just swap in a 6r80 to the 400/6.6 (remanufactured engine I have now with less than 10k miles on it) and call it a day. If I ever do go 460 at least that stuff would swap over and I can reap the benefits of the 6r80 while it's still in the 78 frame that has to be smogged.
 
holdmypocket said:
Been researching Coyote vs Godzilla weighing costs, ease, availability etc. I'm a few years away from this this but I can still obsess right?

The Godzilla swap just seems so damn expensive even if I go with the Infamous Project pullout (Ford 7.3 Godzilla V8 Motor Swap Package - The Infamous Project) for $9100 and use the 2wd transmission it comes with. I would still need to adapt it to a 205, get a controller for it, etc $$$.

I can get a 2015-2017 5.0 Coyote, 6r80 with 4x4 pullout at The Parts Farm (2015-2017 FORD F150 COYOTE 5.0 ENGINE AUTOMATIC TRANS 6r80 4x4 F-150 5.0L) starting at $7000. It looks like adding the transfercase is an option so that'll be extra money, $1000 if I want it to be a running drivetrain on a pallet (gauges, theft control/PATs removed, throttle pedal), plus delivery.

The Godzilla in my opinion is a cooler motor, probably more bulletproof, and cheaper to make power with from what I've seen but 400 (or close to it) horsepower is plenty for me. I just want enough power to turn 40's, fuel injection, and overdrive to maximize MPG.

There's always the 460/E4OD option but I don't think I can put that together with fuel injection for less than getting into a Coyote (I don't have one lying around and people don't let them go for cheap around here).

This is all going into a 75 F250 2wd longbed frame (to be shortened, made 4x4, with 1-tons).

Anyway, there's the Ford thought-dump for the weekend.
Click to expand...
I'm in the exact same boat with the Bronco.

In addition to the motors you've listed; I'm also considering a 1st-gen 5.9 Cummins/NV4500/Atlas T-case drivetrain set up.
Among other desirable features; I like the minimal electronics with said set up.
 
I finally finished the trans mount, burned in the engine mounts, changed both header gaskets to remflex, put the turbo back on (not before dropping one of the turbo bolts right down the fucking crossover immediately after thinking to myself that I was definitely going to do that and I should try not to! ).

I also test fit a coil spring spacer. I ordered 1 1/2" but I'm less than optimistic that it's going to be accurate.

I was going to start breaking down the 460 to send the heads and intake off to be reworked, but I've just been fucking freezing today and my drive isn't there, lol.

Oh and I did some cold start tuning on the f250 with the stinger pimpxshift (ms3x based)
 

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CDA 455 II said:
After Bebop asked a question regarding possible parasitic electrical draw from the Bronco battery; I pondered the possibilities.

I came to the conclusion:
An ashtray left open/out for over 2 years and forgetting it had a little light.:homer:
I didn't notice it because I never drive at night.
Click to expand...
I giggled a little.

Close it and see if it there is no measurable draw.
 
rockota said:
[hijack]
How do you like the Kobalt cabinet?
[hijack]
Click to expand...

I picked it up from a friend clearing out his garage, he wanted to give it to me and I threw whatever cash was in my pocket at him. I think it was $60 or $70? I couldn't believe what retail is on them and would have a hard time swallowing that one.

Shelves seem to hold a decent amount of weight, I have about 200lbs on one with an arbor press, mill vice, belt/disc sander. Has room for a bunch of stuff and the doors are 3 or 4" deep for hanging things

My only real dislike is the left door has a panel that runs behind the right door, so you have to pop the right door open to open the left door. It's probably absolutely fine if you have free access to it, but it gets tight with out clearance.
 
willis_racing said:
aHR0cHM6Ly9tZWRpYS50ZW5vci5jb20vbGo4bHVJcTZQeThBQUFBZC9zdG9wcGllLXN0dW50YmlrZS5naWY~.gif



:flipoff2:

Yes, I am aware of how many times people have successfully put 12Vs into Broncos without doing stoppies. 1200lb engine in a short wheel based SUV that would suck for any kind of towing is still a poor combo imo
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Interesting points.🤔

One reason why I'm considering it is the 1,000lb truck camper in the bed:
1675184132174.jpeg


nOOB question:
At what length is a WB no longer considered short?

My Bronco's WB was extended 5", to 110".

The more ideal WB for my needs/wants/desires is the F-550's shortest WB of 145".:smokin:
 
CDA 455 II said:
One reason why I'm considering it is the 1,000lb truck camper in the bed:
Click to expand...
I can see why that makes you want for more power than a stock 302. I just tend to over analyze things like engine weight and usage cases. Must be my nature as an engineer.

I'm just gonna turbo my 300 :smokin: That was the OG 12v:flipoff2:
CDA 455 II said:
nOOB question:
At what length is a WB no longer considered short?
Click to expand...
Wheelbase has less to do with stability than suspension, frame, and tire package IMO, but it still definitely counts for something. If we're going by what the OEMs think(historically speaking), about the minimum wheelbase you usually saw back in the day for a truck expected to do work/pulling duty was your classic SCLB at ~134".

I've towed my crawler with 115, I've towed my jet skis and boat with 105, and back in the early 80s my dad and gramps used to tow a Sea Ray 225 cabin cruiser with a 79 Bronco. It's all relative and setup helps a lot.
CDA 455 II said:
My Bronco's WB was extended 5", to 110".
Click to expand...
I bought a bullnose bed for $50 with the intent of maybe one day harvesting the sides to stretch mine to 115. Custom soft top price is probably going to keep me from doing it for a very long time though.
 
willis_racing said:
. If we're going by what the OEMs think(historically speaking), about the minimum wheelbase you usually saw back in the day for a truck expected to do work/pulling duty was your classic SCLB at ~134".
Click to expand...
I think that's just a result of how big an 8ft bed is and how much room you need for a cab that can comfortably fit a big man.
 
arse_sidewards said:
I think that's just a result of how big an 8ft bed is and how much room you need for a cab that can comfortably fit a big man.
Click to expand...
That sounds exactly like what might've happened.
I said it that way because I was thinking they made SCSB half tons like crazy, as well as LB half tons for many years, but the SCSB option is pretty absent from 3/4 and 1ton trucks from the same time periods. I figured the reason for that was wheelbase, but thinking about it harder, the market back then probably wouldn't have supported paying more money for a 3/4 ton that has less bed hauling capability for no reason.
 
CDA 455 II said:
Interesting points.🤔

One reason why I'm considering it is the 1,000lb truck camper in the bed:
1675184132174.jpeg


nOOB question:
At what length is a WB no longer considered short?

My Bronco's WB was extended 5", to 110".

The more ideal WB for my needs/wants/desires is the F-550's shortest WB of 145".:smokin:
Click to expand...
I’d cut some pickup bedsides off and Zeus them on like fiberglass fenders to alter the wheel openings in the rear to look factory 🤓
 
Started the final stage of my AC install & Saginaw pump conversion (for hydroboost) which involves installing a 3-groove crank pulley (specified by Vintage Air for my application). Bolted it up and the water pump pulley rubs plenty that it won't spin without a lot of help.

Thinking about taking it to a machine shop to have them turn down that contact point just a bit (highlighted in green). Good/bad idea?
IMG_2468.jpg

Looks like there's A LOT more meat there than the stock crank pulley:
IMG_2469.jpg

Installed flush/all the way:
IMG_2467.jpg


This is what the stock set-up looks like. It is a bit close even as stock but certainly doesn't rub. The new pulley just has a meaty taper to it that might be too optimistic about tolerances from the 70's:

IMG_2463.jpg

IMG_2464.jpg

They make smaller diameter underdrive pulleys for high-flow water pumps but that's more money and will require changing the water pump. I think if I get it machined and balanced (necessary if a machinist does it?) I should be good to go. Thoughts?
 
CDA 455 II said:
Interesting points.🤔

One reason why I'm considering it is the 1,000lb truck camper in the bed:
1675184132174.jpeg


nOOB question:
At what length is a WB no longer considered short?

My Bronco's WB was extended 5", to 110".

The more ideal WB for my needs/wants/desires is the F-550's shortest WB of 145".:smokin:
Click to expand...
If I wanted a longer wheelbase than a Bronco with more power than a 302 to haul something heavy over the back axle I might look for an F-somethin’ fiddy.
 
CDA 455 II said:
True

That may end up happening.
Click to expand...
I think you’d come out ahead. Ideally you’d luck out and find a mid 90’s F350 and be set. But even if you found a two wheel drive F250 you could put a transfer case and super duty axles in it for less time and trouble than it’s going to be to stretch/dually-ify/front 60/cummins swap your bronco so that you end up with some sort of bastardized solid-body F350.
 
Gbkeith said:
I think you’d come out ahead. Ideally you’d luck out and find a mid 90’s F350 and be set. But even if you found a two wheel drive F250 you could put a transfer case and super duty axles in it for less time and trouble than it’s going to be to stretch/dually-ify/front 60/cummins swap your bronco so that you end up with some sort of bastardized solid-body F350.
Click to expand...
And if you ever got pulled over by someone who wanted to ruin your day/got in an accident you wouldn’t have to worry about GVWR limit coming up.
 
Gbkeith said:
I think you’d come out ahead. Ideally you’d luck out and find a mid 90’s F350 and be set. But even if you found a two wheel drive F250 you could put a transfer case and super duty axles in it for less time and trouble than it’s going to be to stretch/dually-ify/front 60/cummins swap your bronco so that you end up with some sort of bastardized solid-body F350.
Click to expand...
Saw for the first time ever just last week; a '92-'96 standard cab/F-350/short bed/dually.:smokin::grinpimp:
holdmypocket said:
And if you ever got pulled over by someone who wanted to ruin your day/got in an accident you wouldn’t have to worry about GVWR limit coming up.
Click to expand...
That's a rather important good point.
Especially GCVWR with me towing the HMMWV trailer.

In the West; I can definitely see OR and UT being states that would harass me.
 
holdmypocket said:
Started the final stage of my AC install & Saginaw pump conversion (for hydroboost) which involves installing a 3-groove crank pulley (specified by Vintage Air for my application). Bolted it up and the water pump pulley rubs plenty that it won't spin without a lot of help.

Thinking about taking it to a machine shop to have them turn down that contact point just a bit (highlighted in green). Good/bad idea?

They make smaller diameter underdrive pulleys for high-flow water pumps but that's more money and will require changing the water pump. I think if I get it machined and balanced (necessary if a machinist does it?) I should be good to go. Thoughts?
Click to expand...
I'd just pop that bitch in the lathe. else take to shop and do same. No need to banlance, the factory stamped water pump pullies are crude as hell.
 
rattle_snake said:
I'd just pop that bitch in the lathe. else take to shop and do same. No need to banlance, the factory stamped water pump pullies are crude as hell.
Click to expand...
I should update, your response eases a concern I had too (I'm no machinist):

1. Took it to a machine shop near me on Friday they wanted $80 to do it. Said they couldn't "balance" it but could take a reading before and after for comparison.

2. On Monday Vintage Air got back to me with better answers.. long story short they reference a water pump pulley for this exact scenario so I ordered that.

3. Picked up the pulley before the machine shop got started on it. The concern was I put a little scratch/dent in it (about as deep as a layer of paint maybe) when I was checking clearance but after your post I'm overthinking it and I'll be fine.

So that's all sorted out just waiting on the pulley, an adapter for the stock hose to saginaw pump, and need some time to get into it between working on the Bronco.


I'm super excited to get this done because I'll have AC (and heat again), no more whining steering pump, and I can get the hydro-boost conversion done. That's the last step before I can start the 1-ton swap I've been gathering all the parts for and talking about since this site started.
 
holdmypocket said:
I'm super excited to get this done because I'll have AC (and heat again), no more whining steering pump, and I can get the hydro-boost conversion done. That's the last step before I can start the 1-ton swap I've been gathering all the parts for and talking about since this site started.
Click to expand...
My Saginaw is fucking louder than my original Ford pump. But at least I can turn now
 
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