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What did you do for your ford today?

Finally feel really legal on the farm truck :smokin:

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Feel like it does a good job finishing out the look. Still really need paint

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Got that dang filter swapped finally. Had to remove the power steering pump and bracket to get in there with the 24" slip jaw pliers.

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Electric flashers came in, got them installed so shouldn't have any more weird issues with the trailer hooked up

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And straightened out the steering wheel, for probably the last time

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Blinker to the right still doesn't work. Oh well, probably an open line somewhere. Before it just stayed lit, now it doesn't light. Not worth thinking about.
 
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Got that dang filter swapped finally. Had to remove the power steering pump and bracket to get in there with the 24" slip jaw pliers.

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I just hammer a screwdriver into the body of the filter and use that to turn it. Makes a mess but is a great way to vent my frustration :laughing:
 
Changed the driver side turbo feed line on my 2016 F150 2.7 Ecoboost. This is the first thing I've had to do to this truck in 8 years other than rear brakes and tires. I got 70k out of the first set of tires, 75k on the rear brakes. The fronts are still going strong. The truck has 78k miles on it.

For those with this model of engine this can happen after a cold soak. Apparently the cause is the oil system has check valves to keep the lifters, phasers and tensioners supplied with pressure for auto start / stop operation (which I have disabled via ForScan). The driver side turbo oil feed is plumbed to that and apparently the passenger side is not. The pressure bleeds oil into the turbo bearing and seeps into the housing causing the smoke at startup. The new tube has a check valve in it thus preventing pressurized oil from entering a non-spinning turbo. So far so good.



The TSB:

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And the parts:



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Attachments

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68 Bronco - This is part of the stumble on light-load saga. Brief backstory, around 2200 RPM will start to stumble. Have gone through all ignition and fuel parts.

Latest thing I've been working on is rebuilding the Holley 4160. While I was at it I replaced the mechanical fuel pump with a Carter M6588, blew out the lines, replaced the fuel filters with quality ones (the clear plastic ones fell apart and were probably the root cause all along), and the aftermarket 23 gallon tank has a drain at the lowest point so I let a bit of fuel out of there (came out nice and clean).

Well, the last couple of days have been spent putting the carb on, start it up, sounds great, floods within a minute or so. Fuel comes right out of the primary vent.

Tried:
1. Smacking the bowl to free up a stuck needle/float.
2. Drained the bowl from the lower bolt, lowered the float and tried again.
3. Took the bowls off, swapped the float springs.
4. Checked that the floats float.
5. Took it apart and double-checked all of the gaskets.
6. Tried a different set of needles and seats.
7. Cleaned up the needles and seats real good.
8. Inspected the bowls.

Now I feel pretty damn comfortable tearing a Holley apart and putting it back together. I've watched multiple videos and verified my work. It still runs for a bit then floods out the primary vent.

Got pissed off an ordered a new carb that is on it's way... but I also bought a cheap fuel gauge and stuck it right after the pump before the carb filter. It runs like shit now and the gauge was at +12 PSI. I looked down the throat of the carb and there's fuel all over the throttle blades. From what I've seen it do the last two days it was probably going to flood out the vents if I kept it running long enough but it was running real rough.

Decided to buy a Holley 12-803 deadhead fuel pressure regulator. Going to throw that on and if it fixes it then I can return the new carb I bought. If it doesn't then I don't know what the fuck and I guess that new carburetor is going on.

With all that said, there are several forum posts out there talking about this specific mechanical fuel pump from Carter doing the same goddamn thing. Of course I only found this post today after my latest attempt to fix this goddamn thing: Carter (P/N M6588) Fuel Pump Warning
 
Pulled the stinger pimpxshift ecu out of the f250 and reverted all the wiring changes. I really screwed the pooch on that one, sure wish I had documented what I did. And I still fucked one of the wires up, was supposed to go into pin 5 and I put it in 6. Oops. Was the coast clutch wire for the transmission. Explains why it never worked. (No engine braking)
:lmao:

The awesome part was I pulled the wideband out of it, and I went to go order a stock O2 for it, Amazon said I had just ordered one a couple months ago. Seriously didn't remember. Still don't. In a fit of awesome I even found the damn thing in the garage!

Getting the truck ready to try and sell. I still need it for another month or so though, gotta go get a couple pallets of landscaping brick before it goes.
 
68 Bronco - This is part of the stumble on light-load saga. Brief backstory, around 2200 RPM will start to stumble. Have gone through all ignition and fuel parts.

Latest thing I've been working on is rebuilding the Holley 4160. While I was at it I replaced the mechanical fuel pump with a Carter M6588, blew out the lines, replaced the fuel filters with quality ones (the clear plastic ones fell apart and were probably the root cause all along), and the aftermarket 23 gallon tank has a drain at the lowest point so I let a bit of fuel out of there (came out nice and clean).

Well, the last couple of days have been spent putting the carb on, start it up, sounds great, floods within a minute or so. Fuel comes right out of the primary vent.

Tried:
1. Smacking the bowl to free up a stuck needle/float.
2. Drained the bowl from the lower bolt, lowered the float and tried again.
3. Took the bowls off, swapped the float springs.
4. Checked that the floats float.
5. Took it apart and double-checked all of the gaskets.
6. Tried a different set of needles and seats.
7. Cleaned up the needles and seats real good.
8. Inspected the bowls.

Now I feel pretty damn comfortable tearing a Holley apart and putting it back together. I've watched multiple videos and verified my work. It still runs for a bit then floods out the primary vent.

Got pissed off an ordered a new carb that is on it's way... but I also bought a cheap fuel gauge and stuck it right after the pump before the carb filter. It runs like shit now and the gauge was at +12 PSI. I looked down the throat of the carb and there's fuel all over the throttle blades. From what I've seen it do the last two days it was probably going to flood out the vents if I kept it running long enough but it was running real rough.

Decided to buy a Holley 12-803 deadhead fuel pressure regulator. Going to throw that on and if it fixes it then I can return the new carb I bought. If it doesn't then I don't know what the fuck and I guess that new carburetor is going on.

With all that said, there are several forum posts out there talking about this specific mechanical fuel pump from Carter doing the same goddamn thing. Of course I only found this post today after my latest attempt to fix this goddamn thing: Carter (P/N M6588) Fuel Pump Warning


Yea 12+ psi of pressure, carbs don't tend to like that
 
Slapped this shit on last Friday. Had to go with the big expensive hollow bumper instead of the short cheap solid ones because I needed it to bump out farther than the shackle mounts. Had no idea if the effective spring rate was gonna be too much or too little. Finally had a chance to bounce off some shit in the work parking garage. Works fucking great. Even idling along (3.73s, M5OD, I'm not gonna do the math but it's not slow) in reverse the bump is more pleasant than styrofoam car bumper inserts at lower speeds. 10/10, gonna do more this way in the future.

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Actually got the alumaduty out of the garage to pick up some sticks of steel today.

Threw 58 60# concrete bags in the Dually on Saturday Rode like a damned 70's Cadillac floaty, squishy, smooth... probably should have had more than 35# of pressure in the rear tires... :grinpimp:
 
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