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Provience
Kill!
Still ttb? Won't be the last time
oh it will be, i just put it back together way off the last time. Wanted to make sure that it wasn't the cause of my blinker not blinking issue. It's not, it can do whatever it wants now
Ummduh
Red Skull Member
It's not, it can do whatever it wants now
Did not account for lack of giving a fuck. Touché
holdmypocket
nil
I just hammer a screwdriver into the body of the filter and use that to turn it. Makes a mess but is a great way to vent my frustrationGot that dang filter swapped finally. Had to remove the power steering pump and bracket to get in there with the 24" slip jaw pliers.
Provience
Kill!
Had a small filter on there before, it was dumb.I just hammer a screwdriver into the body of the filter and use that to turn it. Makes a mess but is a great way to vent my frustration
The bigger one is much nicer and leaves more options
FordFascist
Ford Bigot
Changed the driver side turbo feed line on my 2016 F150 2.7 Ecoboost. This is the first thing I've had to do to this truck in 8 years other than rear brakes and tires. I got 70k out of the first set of tires, 75k on the rear brakes. The fronts are still going strong. The truck has 78k miles on it.
For those with this model of engine this can happen after a cold soak. Apparently the cause is the oil system has check valves to keep the lifters, phasers and tensioners supplied with pressure for auto start / stop operation (which I have disabled via ForScan). The driver side turbo oil feed is plumbed to that and apparently the passenger side is not. The pressure bleeds oil into the turbo bearing and seeps into the housing causing the smoke at startup. The new tube has a check valve in it thus preventing pressurized oil from entering a non-spinning turbo. So far so good.
The TSB:
And the parts:
ford.oempartsonline.com
ford.oempartsonline.com
For those with this model of engine this can happen after a cold soak. Apparently the cause is the oil system has check valves to keep the lifters, phasers and tensioners supplied with pressure for auto start / stop operation (which I have disabled via ForScan). The driver side turbo oil feed is plumbed to that and apparently the passenger side is not. The pressure bleeds oil into the turbo bearing and seeps into the housing causing the smoke at startup. The new tube has a check valve in it thus preventing pressurized oil from entering a non-spinning turbo. So far so good.
The TSB:
And the parts:
2015-2024 Ford Turbocharger Stud W716383-S437 | OEM Parts Online
2015-2024 Ford Turbocharger Stud W716383-S437
ford.oempartsonline.com
2010-2024 Ford Manifold Nut W714870-S430 | OEM Parts Online
2010-2024 Ford Manifold Nut W714870-S430
ford.oempartsonline.com
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holdmypocket
nil
68 Bronco - This is part of the stumble on light-load saga. Brief backstory, around 2200 RPM will start to stumble. Have gone through all ignition and fuel parts.
Latest thing I've been working on is rebuilding the Holley 4160. While I was at it I replaced the mechanical fuel pump with a Carter M6588, blew out the lines, replaced the fuel filters with quality ones (the clear plastic ones fell apart and were probably the root cause all along), and the aftermarket 23 gallon tank has a drain at the lowest point so I let a bit of fuel out of there (came out nice and clean).
Well, the last couple of days have been spent putting the carb on, start it up, sounds great, floods within a minute or so. Fuel comes right out of the primary vent.
Tried:
1. Smacking the bowl to free up a stuck needle/float.
2. Drained the bowl from the lower bolt, lowered the float and tried again.
3. Took the bowls off, swapped the float springs.
4. Checked that the floats float.
5. Took it apart and double-checked all of the gaskets.
6. Tried a different set of needles and seats.
7. Cleaned up the needles and seats real good.
8. Inspected the bowls.
Now I feel pretty damn comfortable tearing a Holley apart and putting it back together. I've watched multiple videos and verified my work. It still runs for a bit then floods out the primary vent.
Got pissed off an ordered a new carb that is on it's way... but I also bought a cheap fuel gauge and stuck it right after the pump before the carb filter. It runs like shit now and the gauge was at +12 PSI. I looked down the throat of the carb and there's fuel all over the throttle blades. From what I've seen it do the last two days it was probably going to flood out the vents if I kept it running long enough but it was running real rough.
Decided to buy a Holley 12-803 deadhead fuel pressure regulator. Going to throw that on and if it fixes it then I can return the new carb I bought. If it doesn't then I don't know what the fuck and I guess that new carburetor is going on.
With all that said, there are several forum posts out there talking about this specific mechanical fuel pump from Carter doing the same goddamn thing. Of course I only found this post today after my latest attempt to fix this goddamn thing: Carter (P/N M6588) Fuel Pump Warning
Latest thing I've been working on is rebuilding the Holley 4160. While I was at it I replaced the mechanical fuel pump with a Carter M6588, blew out the lines, replaced the fuel filters with quality ones (the clear plastic ones fell apart and were probably the root cause all along), and the aftermarket 23 gallon tank has a drain at the lowest point so I let a bit of fuel out of there (came out nice and clean).
Well, the last couple of days have been spent putting the carb on, start it up, sounds great, floods within a minute or so. Fuel comes right out of the primary vent.
Tried:
1. Smacking the bowl to free up a stuck needle/float.
2. Drained the bowl from the lower bolt, lowered the float and tried again.
3. Took the bowls off, swapped the float springs.
4. Checked that the floats float.
5. Took it apart and double-checked all of the gaskets.
6. Tried a different set of needles and seats.
7. Cleaned up the needles and seats real good.
8. Inspected the bowls.
Now I feel pretty damn comfortable tearing a Holley apart and putting it back together. I've watched multiple videos and verified my work. It still runs for a bit then floods out the primary vent.
Got pissed off an ordered a new carb that is on it's way... but I also bought a cheap fuel gauge and stuck it right after the pump before the carb filter. It runs like shit now and the gauge was at +12 PSI. I looked down the throat of the carb and there's fuel all over the throttle blades. From what I've seen it do the last two days it was probably going to flood out the vents if I kept it running long enough but it was running real rough.
Decided to buy a Holley 12-803 deadhead fuel pressure regulator. Going to throw that on and if it fixes it then I can return the new carb I bought. If it doesn't then I don't know what the fuck and I guess that new carburetor is going on.
With all that said, there are several forum posts out there talking about this specific mechanical fuel pump from Carter doing the same goddamn thing. Of course I only found this post today after my latest attempt to fix this goddamn thing: Carter (P/N M6588) Fuel Pump Warning
Ummduh
Red Skull Member
Pulled the stinger pimpxshift ecu out of the f250 and reverted all the wiring changes. I really screwed the pooch on that one, sure wish I had documented what I did. And I still fucked one of the wires up, was supposed to go into pin 5 and I put it in 6. Oops. Was the coast clutch wire for the transmission. Explains why it never worked. (No engine braking)
The awesome part was I pulled the wideband out of it, and I went to go order a stock O2 for it, Amazon said I had just ordered one a couple months ago. Seriously didn't remember. Still don't. In a fit of awesome I even found the damn thing in the garage!
Getting the truck ready to try and sell. I still need it for another month or so though, gotta go get a couple pallets of landscaping brick before it goes.
The awesome part was I pulled the wideband out of it, and I went to go order a stock O2 for it, Amazon said I had just ordered one a couple months ago. Seriously didn't remember. Still don't. In a fit of awesome I even found the damn thing in the garage!
Getting the truck ready to try and sell. I still need it for another month or so though, gotta go get a couple pallets of landscaping brick before it goes.
Ummduh
Red Skull Member
I've seen those be pretty far off, but what you are probably on the right track with the high fuel pressure.
arse_sidewards
Red Skull Member
- Joined
- May 19, 2020
- Member Number
- 71
- Messages
- 8,558
Slapped this shit on last Friday. Had to go with the big expensive hollow bumper instead of the short cheap solid ones because I needed it to bump out farther than the shackle mounts. Had no idea if the effective spring rate was gonna be too much or too little. Finally had a chance to bounce off some shit in the work parking garage. Works fucking great. Even idling along (3.73s, M5OD, I'm not gonna do the math but it's not slow) in reverse the bump is more pleasant than styrofoam car bumper inserts at lower speeds. 10/10, gonna do more this way in the future.
Provience
Kill!
New seatbelt, stupid T50 bolt.
Window fixed, now with 1/4" bolts instead of rivets. Cut up some generic weather stripping to help hold the window in place.
holdmypocket
nil
I know that pain all too well.
rockota
white collar hillbilly
- Joined
- May 28, 2020
- Member Number
- 1642
- Messages
- 3,959
Actually got the alumaduty out of the garage to pick up some sticks of steel today.
Threw 58 60# concrete bags in the Dually on Saturday Rode like a damned 70's Cadillac floaty, squishy, smooth... probably should have had more than 35# of pressure in the rear tires...
Threw 58 60# concrete bags in the Dually on Saturday Rode like a damned 70's Cadillac floaty, squishy, smooth... probably should have had more than 35# of pressure in the rear tires...
holdmypocket
nil
67 Bronco: still on the stumble at 2200rpm under light load (like going up a hill)...
I'm still stumped as to why it occurs. Accelerating moderately up a hill will cause a less severe stumble/popping than it did before. Before it just refused to go past 50mph even if I downshifted. I can probably adjust the kickdown to shift even earlier to work around it for now.
My vacuum reading after tuning idle ended up at 18hg with a very tiny, rapid, vibration of the needle. I'm going to poke around again and see if I can find a vacuum leak but I've down a lot of that the past year and found nothing. Replaced hoses, tightened carb, replaced vacuum tree, new caps, etc.
Something I've noticed since I got this thing running is that it always had a faint smell that reminds me of a dead mouse/rat or nest/shit/piss when I come to a stop. It got me wondering if something is clogging up the exhaust, and wondering if that could cause a stumble like this. I've always felt since day 1 that this 302 should have a bit more balls than it does considering it has headers, 4 barrel, dual plane intake and was rebuilt in the last 5k miles (before I got it). It just feels like it's got a little lead in it's ass but once it gets going it's about what I expect. the 33's and 3.50 gears don't help but I've ran that exact setup before in a Bronco with a 302.
78 1-ton swap: now that the Bronco is out of the garage the woman might get off my back a bit and let me work on my shit. I need to rotate the axle track bar mount forward after I fixed the caster a few weekends ago. Once that's in place I think i'll finally start on the iBooster upgrade.
- It's not as bad as it was before the: carb rebuild, fuel filter fix, fuel pump + regulator
- I can now downshift and drive through the stumble
- I can do 70 on the freeway again
I'm still stumped as to why it occurs. Accelerating moderately up a hill will cause a less severe stumble/popping than it did before. Before it just refused to go past 50mph even if I downshifted. I can probably adjust the kickdown to shift even earlier to work around it for now.
My vacuum reading after tuning idle ended up at 18hg with a very tiny, rapid, vibration of the needle. I'm going to poke around again and see if I can find a vacuum leak but I've down a lot of that the past year and found nothing. Replaced hoses, tightened carb, replaced vacuum tree, new caps, etc.
Something I've noticed since I got this thing running is that it always had a faint smell that reminds me of a dead mouse/rat or nest/shit/piss when I come to a stop. It got me wondering if something is clogging up the exhaust, and wondering if that could cause a stumble like this. I've always felt since day 1 that this 302 should have a bit more balls than it does considering it has headers, 4 barrel, dual plane intake and was rebuilt in the last 5k miles (before I got it). It just feels like it's got a little lead in it's ass but once it gets going it's about what I expect. the 33's and 3.50 gears don't help but I've ran that exact setup before in a Bronco with a 302.
78 1-ton swap: now that the Bronco is out of the garage the woman might get off my back a bit and let me work on my shit. I need to rotate the axle track bar mount forward after I fixed the caster a few weekends ago. Once that's in place I think i'll finally start on the iBooster upgrade.
I wrap a belt or strap around it 3+ times. You want to wrap it so as you pull the strap it is tightening around the previous wraps. Pull the outside strap while holding tension on the inside strap and the filter will spin off.
Tiha
Red Skull Member
Has anyone said check the bushing in the distributor?
It would certainly do that. If the bushing is worn out the rotor starts hopping around in there when you hit the right rpms.
Just grab the rotor and wiggle it around.
Levigarrett76
Zeus of the Sluice
remind me, original duraspark distributor?
Is vacc advance hooked up? to ported or manifold? Has it been adjusted at all?
Have you check the curve with timing light and revving engine to verify smooth advance, and by what rpm it comes in full?
holdmypocket
nil
It had a Pertronix II in it. I replaced that with the whole Pertronix III distributor. Tested vacuum advance, checked timing, everything is good there. New plugs, new wires, new Pertronix III coil.
On the fuel side: rebuilt the carb twice, tank is a 23 gallon aftermarket I flushed that, replaced the fuel pump (that prompted me to install a pressure gauge and regulator because the new mechanical Carter pump was putting out way too much pressure) and that's running at 6 psi. Two new fuel filters (had an issue with crappy see-through ones which is fixed now), 100 micron after the tank, 30 micron after the fuel pump.
My two current theories are:
Drove it around quite a bit yesterday and while it was still warming up I got on a road going about 45mph and as it was accelerating it completely cut out like the fuel just shut off for a solid 2 seconds, then came back to life and was totally fine by the time I hit the stop light. There was no popping sound/backfire or anything like that.
I got a new Holley 4160 in a box from someone that I'm going to throw on there this weekend because I have it. Will give that a try just for shits and giggles (maybe I fucked up rebuilding the carb), and then I'll be ordering some 5/16 fuel line.
If that changes nothing then I guess I'll drop the exhaust and take a look.
On the fuel side: rebuilt the carb twice, tank is a 23 gallon aftermarket I flushed that, replaced the fuel pump (that prompted me to install a pressure gauge and regulator because the new mechanical Carter pump was putting out way too much pressure) and that's running at 6 psi. Two new fuel filters (had an issue with crappy see-through ones which is fixed now), 100 micron after the tank, 30 micron after the fuel pump.
My two current theories are:
- mouse/rat nest in the exhaust/mufflers (long shot I know but it does have a faint smell once it warms up)
- I used a 3/8" hardline between the tank and fuel pump. This is bigger than what is normally used, also probably a long shot.
Drove it around quite a bit yesterday and while it was still warming up I got on a road going about 45mph and as it was accelerating it completely cut out like the fuel just shut off for a solid 2 seconds, then came back to life and was totally fine by the time I hit the stop light. There was no popping sound/backfire or anything like that.
I got a new Holley 4160 in a box from someone that I'm going to throw on there this weekend because I have it. Will give that a try just for shits and giggles (maybe I fucked up rebuilding the carb), and then I'll be ordering some 5/16 fuel line.
If that changes nothing then I guess I'll drop the exhaust and take a look.
Unless you have a leak on the suction side, the ⅜ fuel line is not your problem.
Levigarrett76
Zeus of the Sluice
My bad, It didnt click that it was a 67' w/ points and duraspark wasnt until 74 or so.
Being you tried it with vac. advance disconnected i would monitor the mechanical advance of the dizzy and see what rpm it starts to come in, and when its all in
also, have you tried partially closing the choke (lazy way to richen) to see if the stumble goes away?
Agreed, low HP like this isnt going to matter
TrikeKid
Junk Hoarder
Washed + yearly Irate sticker replacement. Found a Totalled sticker in the drawer and threw that on too
Chadwick
Yellow Skull
While doing g valve cover gaskets , 👀 spot that... ouchie and maybe big @$$ expensive ouchie averted ... was going to go camping will see how new bolts go or no go.
.. if I did a video from vehicle on the maybe 8miles I drive to work.. It really wouldn't show how literally wind roewd or wash board.. it actually is. This is now 2 vehicle that have come apart between transmission and engine..
County grades it regularly they even truck road base in bt the belly dumps.. really would be nice to have it paved..
I almost don't want to drive one ton to work or suburban once it's done.
.. if I did a video from vehicle on the maybe 8miles I drive to work.. It really wouldn't show how literally wind roewd or wash board.. it actually is. This is now 2 vehicle that have come apart between transmission and engine..
County grades it regularly they even truck road base in bt the belly dumps.. really would be nice to have it paved..
I almost don't want to drive one ton to work or suburban once it's done.
Attachments
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TrikeKid
Junk Hoarder
Drug the '76 out and washed it. Been stuffed in the carport collecting dust the last few months.
holdmypocket
nil
I’d hurt my neck watching that thing drive by!Drug the '76 out and washed it. Been stuffed in the carport collecting dust the last few months.
Betarocker
Active member
- Joined
- Jun 9, 2020
- Member Number
- 1930
- Messages
- 28
Wasn't today, but over the last while my 6.7L Powerstroke lost some exhaust weight and stopped inhaling its exhaust gases and crankcase vapors. 50% improvement in fuel economy and much more responsive to throttle input.
arse_sidewards
Red Skull Member
- Joined
- May 19, 2020
- Member Number
- 71
- Messages
- 8,558