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What did you do for your ford today?

Got the 15,000lb winch wired up yesterday. Made a little aluminum L bracket that's riveted to the grill and hung the contactor behind the blue oval. Remote plug pokes through the top bar of the grill. Light bar fit perfectly, with one foot on each side of the access holes...which was the mistake mentioned earlier. I welded it up with the access hole for the freespool/clutch lever on the wrong side:laughing:.
Gotta get my fogs mounted and wired, but I'm pretty happy with the way she sits now!
 
Tried to figure out why the DS front brake kept intermittently hanging or dragging with no discernable pattern. On a left turn you could hear it rub a little bit, but nothing going straight or turning right. I threw a new DS brake hose at it since I did the PS a couple weeks ago and HO-LEE-FAWK was that a mini-adventure. Couldn't find the right sized line wrench, managed to get the old one off with vice grips and a 16mm box end wrench only for part of the thread on the flare nut to come off in a fine little shard, still attached at one end. Nothing I tried could get it to thread in. I even tried a tap to rethread the line. Ended up on a parts store run for a multipack of line wrenches and dug into my stash of flared nuts and copper-nickle brake line. I need go-go Gadget arms or a bigger check book to throw at this kind of thing. It's back together and my wife took care of dinner since I was elbow deep in the truck.

The DS tire seems a little tough to spin, but the wheel bearings and ball joints seem tight with no play. Maybe the hub is on the way out?
 
Put a new set of drag radials on, the old were about done.
CgtJ152KWo0KNnYXVdJw=w1271-h953-s-no-gm?authuser=0.jpg


The last of the sticky mickeys. Discontinued....
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Brought a new project home. 1975 F100 Ranger 2wd, factory AC, PS FE360 & C6. My youngest talked me into it.
Hasn’t been run in 20yrs.
Fuel pick up is clogged. Frame fuel lines are clear. The fuel pump, pumps, but not sure if it’s enough. The stock carb seems gummed up. Starts with starting fluid.
Not sure if I want to fix the stock tank & carb or just jump into a Sniper and EFI tank.
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Gumbybronco said:
Brought a new project home. 1975 F100 Ranger 2wd, factory AC, PS FE360 & C6. My youngest talked me into it.
Hasn’t been run in 20yrs.
Fuel pick up is clogged. Frame fuel lines are clear. The fuel pump, pumps, but not sure if it’s enough. The stock carb seems gummed up. Starts with starting fluid.
Not sure if I want to fix the stock tank & carb or just jump into a Sniper and EFI tank.
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Nice,

How did you find that?
 
Finally got around to putting the new seat cover on, figured I would try to repair the seat heater.
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Failed, got continuity but guessing the wrong amount of resistance since I deleted the front loop rather than messing with the tiny wires. Light in the button illuminates for a moment then turns off, seat heater module isn’t happy. :shaking: Might have another go tomorrow since I couldn’t find my hog ring pliers.

Started out the day winning on the exhaust mess.
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Only one broke but it walked right out with a stud extractor.

But then got too rough with the y pipe,
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It can sit for a week or so till this shows up from 5star tuning.
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This green yellow shit look like coolant? Not using/losing any of concern. Only appearing on these three ports.

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Sat the 302 block on the engine mounts and put the trans and tcase back together. I'm going to run a doubler but this will get me in the ballpark and let me setup links and everything. I rebuilt the 205 and set it up for twin sticks.
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dssracing.com

1-3971-4000 400M Small Block Ford 400M 1 FX Series -13cc Dish Top 351

402 Small Block Ford 400M, FX 4032 Alloy, Comp Height: 1.71, -13cc Dish Top, PIN: .975, Full-Floating or Press Fit, Ring Groove: 1.2/1.2/3MM, Stroke: 4, ROD: 6.58, , Appox Comp Ratio: 58cc-11.38, 64cc-10.66, 70cc-10.02
dssracing.com dssracing.com

I think that's the piston I want. Otherwise, I'll be emailing Clegg engines through eBay

www.ebay.com

FORD 400 400M MODIFIED FORGED FLAT-TOP HIGH COMPRESSION PISTONS | eBay

Ford 400 Modified custom made 4032 Forged flat-top Piston Set. 1-888-471-2827 Compression ratio with 78cc heads (most common) will range from 9.6:1 to 10.2:1 depending on final block deck height and head gasket thickness.
www.ebay.com

The DSS piston with a 13cc dish should be the thing. Then the next


www.jalopyjournal.com

Combustion chambers..which is better and why?

I've been wondering for a while..and haven't found an answer to my question yet. Which is better for power assuming the CR is the same in both cases?...
www.jalopyjournal.com www.jalopyjournal.com

This thread from the hamb pretty well sums up and reinforces what I'm thinking. Smaller chambers in the head and then add/reduce compression ratio with the piston pin height, using dish to in the piston for smooth and tighter squish

And then seeing about hogging on the stock heads to drop the volume from whatever mid 70cc its at to low 60cc

Should still be cheaper than buying trick flow heads for $1500 each and easier than dealing with a swap

Mid 10s for static CR and a mild crower cam, pistons with less dish and a better profile and verify/adjust camshaft timing should do a good but of difference.

Might at least should cut down on the oil consumption

Edit: without having a head in front of me, I'd be 50-70 thou shave
 
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67 Bronco - Had a buddy come over and go through the Bronco with me a couple of weeks ago..all the issues ended up being a combination of a shitty Centech wiring harness ignition switch and bad compression. Fixed the ignition switch which helped a ton but it still stumbles under light load at certain RPMs. Compression across all cylinders was between 70-110 at best. It runs/drives OK for now but a remanufactured engine from sandjengines.com is in it's future (same place I got the 400 for my F150). Been driving it around a lot more now that I know what's going on with it. Can't stress too much about killing an engine that's already tired :homer:

78 F150 1-ton swap - updated the build thread.. long story short: fixed my Too-$hort radius arms today which allowed me to rotate the trackbar mount on the axle forward a bit. Will likely still have to put a couple bends in the trackbar to miss the diff but that's closer to full stuff. Going to start on the iBooster install this week and get it mounted at least.
 
I have been slowly plugging away at the 75 F100. I removed the 5 vacuum trees from the intake manifold, ditched the smog pump and removed the thermactor rail from the heads. The big block and factory AC makes working on the rear passenger side a major PIA. I’m dumping the smog carb for a Holley. I tapped and plugged the EGR port under the carb and installed a 2bbl to 4bbl adapter. I’ll likely get an aluminum 4bbl intake manifold in the future, but I’m just focused on getting it running right now.
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Here’s some more from the 75 F100
The fuel pick up was clogged. Pulled the tank and the inside looks great, so I’m adding new parts to it. Got a Napa fuel pick up and it was 5/16” instead of the 3/8” that came with it, so I returned it and ordered an LMC one.
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The carb is on and thermactor plugs installed. I’m waiting on ignition tune up parts from Summit.
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Lots of smog crap
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Alaskan24 said:
2001 f250 5.4. No lift, bushwacker cutouts and 40in cooper stt on 17in racelines. Waiting on a shop to finish rebuilding some axles out of a 04 f350 with 5.38s and arb lockers. I also have hydro assist and a nwf blackbox that needs to get installed.
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Oh dang. What's the backspacing 9n the wheels to keep em off the leafs? I Lnow its not all that spicy, but post a build thread. We need more superduty builds!
 
Squamch said:
Oh dang. What's the backspacing 9n the wheels to keep em off the leafs? I Lnow its not all that spicy, but post a build thread. We need more superduty builds!
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The wheels are 4.5 in backspacing but I did have to add 2in hub centric wheel spacers to retain factory steering travel. I have the same backspaced wheels and tires on my 06 f350 minus spacers and they only rub at steering stops while flexing. Also most of the pics on the build are in this thread. I might do a build thread on this truck when it's finished. The blue superduty might have a build thread as it's getting ready for some changes as well that might make it less than practical as a dd or a tow rig.
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Alaskan24 said:
The wheels are 4.5 in backspacing but I did have to add 2in hub centric wheel spacers to retain factory steering travel. I have the same backspaced wheels and tires on my 06 f350 minus spacers and they only rub at steering stops while flexing. Also most of the pics on the build are in this thread. I might do a build thread on this truck when it's finished. The blue superduty might have a build thread as it's getting ready for some changes as well that might make it less than practical as a dd or a tow rig.
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That's a pile of fuckin' money in those boxes. Helluva setup though.
 
Put a new, bigger toolbox on the deck, replaced a couple mounts for the deck, and decided to do the rear diff juice this week if I can. Might get a cool 'er down cover for it too if I can find one for a good price.
 
I picked up all the fluids and filters I needed today to service the engine in my 22 F350. It was way to fucking hot out this afternoon to do it so I'm going to get after it first thing tomorrow morning before it gets hot. It's getting fuel filters this time around so that's always extra fun.
 
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