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What did you do for your ford today?

Found out that the stupid aftermarket gauges are way to bright for night driving. :laughing:

I need to cut out a thin ring of something black so I can't directly see the ring of light that surrounds the gauge.
 
Levigarrett76 said:
Fuck LED's in gauges
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It's not that they're LED. It's that the stupid ring is too bright. I had the same problem with old incandescent ones but I just lived with it. Now that I'm old and cranky I don't wanna live with it. :laughing:

I could probably swap back to incandescent an use a resistor to drop the brightness.

I will say that the orange needle doesn't show up nearly as well with the green light. Not sure if I'm gonna fix that.

Edit: I could try sticking the green snap on covers, on top of the already green LED, that might darken it up enough. :laughing:
 
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arse_sidewards said:
Found out that the stupid aftermarket gauges are way to bright for night driving. :laughing:

I need to cut out a thin ring of something black so I can't directly see the ring of light that surrounds the gauge.
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Does it use LED bulbs?
 
I installed a rotor, wide cap conversion, 9mm wires and new plugs on the 75 F100. Then ran it for about half an hour and dumped the oil and filter. I’m filling it with 15w-40 diesel oil for now to help clean it up. The plug wires need to be tidied.

I also cut off the cat and muffler to rule out any clogs or restrictions. I’ll make a simple short side dump end with a muffler when it’s closer to drivable.
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Hoist one the rig to lift the drill pipes was locking up, it turned out to be a bad wheel cylinder. I ordered a couple of new ones and rounded up and cleaned up some cores. I painted up all of the pivot surfaces with graphite paint to try and cut down on corrosion.

These are timkin "H" brakes on a modified hub. Actually I think that they are Fords version.
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The wheel cylinders are "4510" and fit

1952FordF-3Rear Left; Rear RightBore: 1.50 In.1951FordF-3Rear Left; Rear RightBore: 1.50 In.1950FordF-3Rear Left; Rear RightBore: 1.50 In.1950FordF4RearBore: 1.50 In.1949FordF-3Rear Left; Rear RightBore: 1.50 In.1949FordF4RearBore: 1.50 In.1948FordF-3Rear Left; Rear RightBore: 1.50 In.1948FordF4RearBore: 1.50 In.1947Ford1 Ton PickupRearBore: 1.50 In.1946Ford1 Ton PickupRearBore: 1.50 In.1945Ford1 Ton PickupRearBore: 1.50 In.1944Ford1 Ton PickupRearBore: 1.50 In.1943Ford1 Ton PickupRearBore: 1.50 In.1942Ford1 Ton PickupRearBore: 1.50 In.1941Ford1 Ton PickupRearBore: 1.50 In.1940Ford1 Ton PickupRearBore: 1.50 In.
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frickn yahoo said:
Years of farting around on this build, Finally backed it out of the garage under its own power. 460 swapped, sniper EFI, ZF5, KP60 all at once. Lots of finishing touches left, but big step here
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Nice ! Got a build thread?
 
Radius arm brackets in place. Next days off drill the rest of the holes for them and it's on to the track bar and steering. Then get to measure for rear springs, shocks, driveshafts.
 

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arse_sidewards said:
Only because I put them in it when I put it together. It has a normal socket for a BA9S bulb. It's not one of the gauges with integrated LEDs.
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I have the opposite problem on my LTD fox body guages. Way too dim, was considering LED bulbs (but green to match factory dash lights)
 
This motherfucker.
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It must have been in the new hose that was in our stock.
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These wheel cylinders must be pretty popular, they're made this year.
THE PISTONS ARE STEEL, I LIGHTLY COATED THEM WITH 111 SILICONE GREASE
 
Put the topper and roof rack back on the OBS….
 

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reptillikus said:
Im not hating, im jealous :lmao:
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If the original owner hadn’t built the rack with substructure inside the topper, there’d be no way to install it this way. I’d have to do it the old fashioned way - by making 6’ extensions for the skid steer forks.


It’s a heavy AF old school Stockton glass topper.
 
It's been a challenging couple of years.

Replaced the fuel pump in the EB (been having fuel delivery issues) and realized the last time I changed the oil was 2016 - About 47 miles ago.... :shaking:

I live on a dead end road and about once a month I run it to temp, then do a few runs to the end of the road to make sure everything goes roundy round and gets lubed.

So yesterday when I pulled it up to the shop to change the fuel pump the ebrake locked up and did not release... :(
 
71PA_Highboy said:
It's been a challenging couple of years.

Replaced the fuel pump in the EB (been having fuel delivery issues) and realized the last time I changed the oil was 2016 - About 47 miles ago.... :shaking:

I live on a dead end road and about once a month I run it to temp, then do a few runs to the end of the road to make sure everything goes roundy round and gets lubed.

So yesterday when I pulled it up to the shop to change the fuel pump the ebrake locked up and did not release... :(
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I won't say it is as fit as it was for it's last road trip (Seattle to Erie), but I think I could use it as a grocery getter now.

Now to fix the F250 ... 79 KPD60 and the hubs are acting fucky so I can't get 4wd.

But the ranger with the dead battery is in the way so it will charge while I get some lunch.
 
Bar in. Next week replace all mock up hardware with the good stuff, replace some of the rivets with bolts, and abuse the jack/cherrypicker/measuring tape.

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