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What did you do for your ford today?

Took in 2100lbs of scrap, which blew one of the boat roller body mounts on the flatdeck, so I finally put in some real body mounts, and ordered the ones for the front of the deck. Also ordered a wicked wheel and a new wastegate, in hopes of stopping the turbo surge its developed with all the towing ive been doing this season.
 
Cleaned parts out interior
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After a new carb replacement I got the EB running last weekend, kind of. When I prime it and give it a shot of starting fluid it fires up and runs decent then it dies. I checked the fuel supply line @ the carb and its bone dry - I'm pretty sure the fuel pump is done. Next step is blow out the lines and replace the pump, I just need to decide if I'm keeping it simple with a new mechanical pump or if I'm going to plumb and wire in an electric pump.
 
Probably not gonna sound impressive, but today I filled up the tank to the brim, I've never seen the fuel gauge point at the F letter in a long time. This is a big achivement for me, as I didn't feel bad in my wallet when filling it up, 120$ whole bucks
 
planefixer said:
After a new carb replacement I got the EB running last weekend, kind of. When I prime it and give it a shot of starting fluid it fires up and runs decent then it dies. I checked the fuel supply line @ the carb and its bone dry - I'm pretty sure the fuel pump is done. Next step is blow out the lines and replace the pump, I just need to decide if I'm keeping it simple with a new mechanical pump or if I'm going to plumb and wire in an electric pump.
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Mechanical pump gets my vote. Quiet, reliable, simple.

Check over the fuel lines, if there is enough crud to block them, there is enough crud to rot them. Good chance they leak from somewhere once cleaned up.
 
OX1 said:
Fuse holder in with 500 amp fuse, wiring in and out done.

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The fuse should protect the wiring. It should blow before the wire can cause a fire.
From what I can find, you would need at least 4/0 with a 500a fuse
 
Hooked up the trailer to put it back into the yard, lights and brakes all working now. Orderd some Chinese special electric flasher relays to hopefully calm down the 2 working turn signal


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Spray lubed the throttle linkage to no gain, did notice a fuel leak. Spring clamp wasn't holding anything, replaced with worm clamp

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Went ahead and got it registered, it's a Texas farm truck on the front and a Virginia antique at the rear. Apparently I got rid of my matching antique tag

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Wife is convinced 2 separate states is going to draw attention so I'll probably pull the Texas tag off. The trailer has a VA permanent plate, this way those will match.

Other option was the currently tagged WA plates of the f250. This way I don't have to swap anything though.

I'm not so worried about my corner of Idaho, might be an issue if I have to wander to a city in Utah though
 
Provience said:
Hooked up the trailer to put it back into the yard, lights and brakes all working now. Orderd some Chinese special electric flasher relays to hopefully calm down the 2 working turn signal


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"hurr durr, your neighbors are less than a mile away you're failing at life because you don't value what I value"

-some piece of shit
 
arse_sidewards said:
"hurr durr, your neighbors are less than a mile away you're failing at life because you don't value what I value"

-some piece of shit
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Eh, my retirement property has no full time neighbors and the closest over the cliff is a half mile, full mile without the cliff :flipoff2:

This is the most in town I've ever lived, real small town beats the shit out of suburbia and cities though. Walking to town center for the carnival/car show/parade/wtf ever is actually pretty convenient
 
Dump run.

Exhaust didn’t care for the railroad crossings.

Been rotting out/falling off for a couple years. I’d booger welded some scrap on to keep it somewhat intact “just until I can really fix it”…………..which became permanent I guess

Didn’t have anything to cut/break it the rest of the way off, so bent it back forwards, strapped it to the frame, and kept on trucking.

Sounds better straight pipes than it did with the Swiss cheese rust holes.

One day I’ll get around to actually fixing it, probably.
 

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Replaced the fuel pump on the 67 Bronco.. blew out the lines.. opened up the inline fuel filters (one after the pump, one after the tank) and realized they had both fallen apart, the glue that holds the element was mixing with the fuel, and nothing was being filtered at all because the elements were loosely floating around in there. I've always used the clear plastic filters since the 90's, and I know people have been saying they're shit but I didn't listen.

Ordered some nice Earl's filters, will have to rebuild the carburetor again I'm sure but I'm hopeful this fixes the weird issues I've been having with this engine.
 
78 F150 1-ton swap: decided to fix the caster angle that I completely fucked up on and that made me realize my radius arms are also too short even with the Metalcloak joint on the frame-end extended as much as is safe. It's good enough for now, but to center the coil spring perfectly with the bottom mount it needs to go forward another 1" maybe 2".

The radius arms are 2x.250 DOM… I'm considering cutting and extending them a few inches with some more DOM inserted in the 2", then sleeve that with more 2x.250, bevelled, and probably several rosette welds. It's a PITA (at least for me) figuring out where to set that upper-link to get the caster angle right while also leaving yourself some adjustment because you have to remove the coil-springs to set an angle finder on the caster pad where you take the measurement on a 05+ D60. I might need to mess with the caster again once I add 1-2" to the lower link but I should have enough adjustment in the upper-link to accomodate that.

Either way I'm going to leave that as-is for now. I have to move the axle-side track-bar mount now that the caster angle is correct. The good news is that I can probably rotate it forward enough to dodge the differential (otherwise I'd have to bend it and it's .250 wall). Hopefully that goes a lot smoother so I can finally get to the electric brake booster.
 
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67 Bronco

Took the Holley 4160 apart because I got the new Earl's fuel filters today (100 and 30 micron) for after the tank and after the pump. Tomorrow the chem dip carburetor cleaner and clutch bit driver comes (so I can take the metering block [?] off).

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This is what the little screen filter for the fuel inlet looked like:

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Backstory from last week is that the cheap see-through plastic fuel filters came apart and weren't doing much filtering at all. Hopefully all of this was contributing to my 2100 RPM stumble that I've been fighting and throwing everything at for the past year.

So this week I'll get the new fuel filters in (already blew the lines out with the air compressor), I opened up the bottom drain of the 23 gallon fuel tank and let a quart of fuel out (looked good), and I'll finish rebuilding the carburetor.
 
Provience said:
Finally got around to putting my summer oil in :laughing: I've been running cheap 5-30, because that's the case of what I had. I'm curious if going to SAE 30 will slow down some of my oil consumption. This lucas break in oil has a zinc equivalent to what a bottle of ZDDP additive would add, which is about double what the VR1 [and pretty well all other "heavy duty" oils] that I run in the motorcycle has.

Lower cost than 5qt of regular oil plus a ZDDP bottle. would be nice to have had 6 qts instead of 5, but it'll probably be just fine :rasta:


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Should've wrote down the mileage. I'm just shy of 80k miles and today was low enough to cause a significant ruckus.

So another oil change, going with 15-40, easier to get quarts to toss in between.

Made it a month and about 1200 miles to be probably 3 quarts low :laughing:

Looks like I'm going to go ahead and commit to refreshing the engine when I give the e4od swap a try this fall.


Edit: what a cam whore :shaking: :flipoff2:

 
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So after 22 years my clutch pedal pushrod decided it didn't want to stay in the master cylinder anymore. I wrapped a coat hanger around the pedal and ziptied it together a couple years ago. Well that stopped working the other weekend which killed the clutch start cancel switch too.

So I made a bracket!

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It bolts to the E-brake lever mounts and does a wonderful job of keeping everything in place. Way better than a coat hanger.
 
I ran those 19.5's with the same Toyo on my Dodge for a few years.
The feeling was nice when loaded with my cabover and bronco on the trailer, I loved the 120psi never gonna have a tire issue again feeling.
But unloaded. I hate those tires. When it was raining in SF, I could not make it up some hills I would just do a burn out, I had to put in 4x4!
Unloaded they also rode really poor. Towing to pismo and airing down to 60 ish PSI never helped me either, I got stuck a lot.
The goal was to swap them out as needed, but I am lazy and just went back to normal E rated tires.
 
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