What did you do for your ford today?

[IDASHO]

2011 SD balljoints @ ~150k
also did axle tube seals.

Not terribly fun. Especially since back together and now an ABS wheel sensor code 🙄

 

[Thatg9659]

Only lost a qt of gear oil since the leak began 300 mi ago, looked like more. 600 to go.

 

[USMC Gunny]

Finally got to do the efuel key on engine off leak test. Had lots of air coming out the return line. Fixed all them and pressure gauge leaking in valley. Strong armed the fucker and twisted back of gauge off connector. Put teflon tape on connector and put it back on. Seems to be working. Gotta order a new one now. Ugh. 25 bucks.

 

[CDA 455 II]

2011 SD balljoints @ ~150k
also did axle tube seals.

Not terribly fun. Especially since back together and now an ABS wheel sensor code 🙄

For us blind old folks:

Why does it look like the rig lived in the rustbelt at one point?🤔

 

[Provience]

For us blind old folks:

Why does it look like the rig lived in the rustbelt at one point?🤔

That is clean as all get out no rust, some dust

 

[CDA 455 II]

That is clean as all get out no rust, some dust

I guess working my POS TTB suspension so much and spraying WD40 on everything; mine axle/frontend area doesn't look like that.

 

[IDASHO]

Yeah thats not rusty.

 

[Provience]

CDA 455 II here is my "not too bad" hub, it all came apart, so still not rust belt worthy

 

[IDASHO]

One of the best upgrades Ive done to this truck is coated rotors all around.

 

[OX1]

Look at the hole where the front main seal goes:

Is that normal/acceptable?

Sure looks mis-machined to me.

1986-1993 Ford Mustang Original 302 Aluminum Timing Chain Cover RF-E3AE-6059-CA | eBay

<p>1986 to 1993 Ford Mustang, 5.0 fuel injected timing cover. No leaks when removed. No cracks.</p>

www.ebay.com

 

[arse_sidewards]

Sure looks mis-machined to me.

You need to look up the water pump gasket for a foxbody and for his truck and spend some time thinking about what you've done.

Also screenshot for the lazy:

 

[CDA 455 II]

You need to look up the water pump gasket for a foxbody and for his truck and spend some time thinking about what you've done.

Also screenshot for the lazy:

Let's see;

Left cover:
Main seal hole is centered
Holes where water flows to and from are centered
There are no threaded holes for the timing needle/pointer
There's a place to mount something on the left side

Right cover:
Main seal hole is off-centered
Holes where water flows is off-centered

Am I missing something?

What's a Foxbody?

 

[Tiha]

What's a Foxbody?

Depends on your age. Meant something completely different to me growing up.

But sadly it is now what they call thrid gen mustangs that. From like 1980-1993?
When they weren't cool. In fact they were the opposite of a Fox. LOL

 

[665.0coupe]

Depends on your age. Meant something completely different to me growing up.

But sadly it is now what they call thrid gen mustangs that. From like 1980-1993?
When they weren't cool. In fact they were the opposite of a Fox. LOL

79-93 Mustangs are the Foxbody's.

Ford Fox platform - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

 

[arse_sidewards]

There's a handful of different pumps and covers and the orientation of the water pump ports is one of the big differences.

Basically the cover he linked isn't for your truck

 

[CDA 455 II]

 

[665.0coupe]

What are you going to do with that?

 

[CDA 455 II]

What are you going to do with that?

As far as I'm concerned I'm going to use it as a spray-on glue to hold the gaskets in place while I bolt up (vertically) all the parts.
1) T-stat housing
2) Timing chain cover
3) Oil pan gaskets
4) Water pump

As suggested; I'm going to use tubed gasket maker when I install the front main seal.

 

[holdmypocket]

Speculation: I think sticking with RTV would be best. If you're worried about gaskets staying in place, put some RTV on one of the surfaces, let it skin over for a few minutes, then apply the gasket. Repeat on the other surface. I would use RTV because as you tighten the bolts/install parts it'll squeeze out and fill voids better than I imagine that spray gasket would. Just my two-cents.

 

[CDA 455 II]

Just found this:

My last procurement, and my most concern (broken bolt(s) blah blah..).

 

[665.0coupe]

As far as I'm concerned I'm going to use it as a spray-on glue to hold the gaskets in place while I bolt up (vertically) all the parts.
1) T-stat housing
2) Timing chain cover
3) Oil pan gaskets
4) Water pump

As suggested; I'm going to use tubed gasket maker when I install the front main seal.

That stuff is to spray on SOME (not all) head gaskets to help them seal water.

Every race engine I've ever built, which includes drag race, dirt and asphalt circle track, and 24 hour endurance sports car, has been assembled with the cheapest clear door and window silicone from a big box hardware store. I can tell you that more pro shops do it this way not.

To hold timing chain cover gaskets in place I would use Gasgacinch or 3M weather strip adhesive. The 3M stuff is more permanent. Gasgacinch is nice because it has a brush in the can so you can brush it on the gasket and stick it to the block. 3M is in a tube so it's easy to squeeze out, but it's really stringy and more messy.

Gasgacinch - Gasket Sealer Products. Made in the USA

Gasgacinch products serving customers like you for over 50 years. Our products represent performance, durability, and quality. We provide products direct to distributors and retail stores. Become a vendor today!

www.gasgacinch.com

 

[CDA 455 II]

Speculation: I think sticking with RTV would be best. If you're worried about gaskets staying in place, put some RTV on one of the surfaces, let it skin over for a few minutes, then apply the gasket. Repeat on the other surface. I would use RTV because as you tighten the bolts/install parts it'll squeeze out and fill voids better than I imagine that spray gasket would. Just my two-cents.

I have both; and I like options on-hand.

You would use RTV only, over gaskets?

 

[IDASHO]

I pretty well glue everything together these days with the black Toyota sealant. Expensive, near $25 a tube last time I got some, but worth it. It even makes subarus leak free.

 

[arse_sidewards]

You would use RTV only, over gaskets?

RTV only for nice perfectly clean mating metal surfaces (new timing cover onto new water pump falls into this category)

RTV over gasket for the questionable shit (new timing cover onto old, dirty block falls into this category)

Put a bead of RTV at the corner where the cover, pan and block all meet regardless of what you do.

 

[holdmypocket]

I have both; and I like options on-hand.

You would use RTV only, over gaskets?

I personally have always used RTV with the gasket and haven't had issues in each of the scenarios arse_sidewards listed.

 

[holdmypocket]

That stuff is to spray on SOME (not all) head gaskets to help them seal water.

Every race engine I've ever built, which includes drag race, dirt and asphalt circle track, and 24 hour endurance sports car, has been assembled with the cheapest clear door and window silicone from a big box hardware store. I can tell you that more pro shops do it this way not.

To hold timing chain cover gaskets in place I would use Gasgacinch or 3M weather strip adhesive. The 3M stuff is more permanent. Gasgacinch is nice because it has a brush in the can so you can brush it on the gasket and stick it to the block. 3M is in a tube so it's easy to squeeze out, but it's really stringy and more messy.

Gasgacinch - Gasket Sealer Products. Made in the USA

Gasgacinch products serving customers like you for over 50 years. Our products represent performance, durability, and quality. We provide products direct to distributors and retail stores. Become a vendor today!

www.gasgacinch.com

I don't doubt the clear door and window silicone works for some time but I've run into that being used on an intake manifold gasket and that shit was brittle and chunking off. I wouldn't rely on it for a driver.

 

[665.0coupe]

I don't doubt the clear door and window silicone works for some time but I've run into that being used on an intake manifold gasket and that shit was brittle and chunking off. I wouldn't rely on it for a driver.

Are you talking about the stuff that squeezes out of the sides?? That stuff doesn't seal anything. And if you put enough on that a bunch squeezes out, then you put to much on.

To each their own.

 

[OX1]

You need to look up the water pump gasket for a foxbody and for his truck and spend some time thinking about what you've done.

Also screenshot for the lazy:

Thought he was asking about the extra machining those ports have. Posted up the first cover I saw with correct looking WP ports.
This is the cover in question?

Sure seems like it used to be machined closer to what I've seen SB Fords TC's machined like. Pic from Summit

Dorman 635-100 Dorman Timing Covers | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Dorman Timing Covers with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Timing Covers at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

Cover from BGY looks a lot better also.

https://lmr.com/item/FTP-103002/1992-1996-bronco-timing-cover-58?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&adpos=&scid=scplp&sc_intid=&gad_source=1

 

[CDA 455 II]

Thought he was asking about the extra machining those ports have. Posted up the first cover I saw with correct looking WP ports.
This is the cover in question?

Sure seems like it used to be machined closer to what I've seen SB Fords TC's machined like. Pic from Summit

Dorman 635-100 Dorman Timing Covers | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Dorman Timing Covers with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Timing Covers at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

Cover from BGY looks a lot better also.

https://lmr.com/item/FTP-103002/1992-1996-bronco-timing-cover-58?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&adpos=&scid=scplp&sc_intid=&gad_source=1

All those timing chain covers have centered holes (except mine)!

 

[CDA 455 II]

Made a trip to Tacoma Screw:

Got the bolts I needed for $16!

Forgot to get the 4 oil pan bolts.