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What did you do for your ford today?

Provience said:
belmetric.com

Clamp Full Tab Constant Tension 9mm - 50mm

Bel-Metric sells metric hardware & specialty automotive supplies worldwide. Visit our website to purchase metric fasteners, nuts, bolts, screws, washers & more.
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I need to grab a metric measuring stick. I like spring clamps for many things
Click to expand...
I watched their vid.
IIUC; pick a spring clamp that barely fits the hose with clamp fully open.

Is that standard real-world practice?🤔
 
Changed out a window regulator and motor after if failed at the bank and installed led 3rd brakelight/bed lamp.
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Bunch of "minor" stuff on new F250.

I have 400ish CD's and started ripping them, and then said eff that.
No CD in new trucks, so added my own. Plugs into data port, and even
works with main screen and steering wheel controls. $80 POS on Amazon.......

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Fit it "in dash". Even matches silver trim in XLT's.

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Added extra 4 pin connector/RCA for trailers.

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Two of the wires and RCA for cheap trailer backup/monitor cam.
Used a 12V "home" surveillance cam. Most backup cams are super wide angle
and no adjustment. This one has variable depth of field (and focus) adjustments,
is upwards of 1080 (analog), and has crapload of IR if not using any lighting.
Ugly as sin, but so is my trailer :flipoff2:


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This is pitch black at night, looking back through 12 X 12 pole barn door from outside. (hard to get good pic off that monitor camera screen)

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Since I have cap, I now have 3 sets of limo dark tinted glass to look through rear view. Obviously it is useless.
Found this thing for $100, mounts right up to new SD rear view button on windshield. 7" screen and dual input,
so can use separate switch to either use cam on back of truck, or trailer.

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Std style back up cam came with it (which I tried first), but I added something more "factory-ish" in rear bumper.
(also got rid of backup lines, which are always annoying to me)

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Added digital volt meter that reads directly off E/H trailer brake controller.
I had that display on the Prodigy controller on my Dodge, and liked it.

Also had issues on new truck not being happy with my old E/H controller, and
sometimes telling me trailer was "dis-connected" , like when I use manual
lever on factory controller.

Have to love this new electronic crap. I can literally hear trailer brakes "squealing", so that must
mean trailer is disconnected?? (no point in going to dealer, they will just blame the trailer).


So now I know exact voltage coming from trailer brake E/H unit, directly from trailer.


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Also added lights. Front light bar (which I wanted integrated as well as possible into the bumper/grill). Also has 3rd wire for DRL type light (shown below), I might eventually tap into parking lights.

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rear lights for trailer backup/connection (again, tried to get something semi-integrated, but still permanently removable)


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Dual color fogs. Tried to find something that would not blind the crap out of everyone else. Tough to do with these bulb manufacturers literally "chasing the sun" in brightness it seems (I tested 6 different sets, before settling on these). Odd that the yellow, which you think would be more for fog, has a higher light pattern than the white.

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Added relay to trailer reverse lights, hooked up to upfitter switch, that allows them to be on when not in reverse. I have a curved driveway with larger tree right on the inside corner, and can't see crap near trailer, coming in after a hard day of wheeling (also upgraded tractor lights on trailer to LED)

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Provience said:
That's a whole bunch of little projects knocked out :grinpimp:
Click to expand...

Yeah. Was pretty happy with the new tow rig, especially power of 6.7 HO.
But little stuff to maike it perfect. Only thing I wish I got, and still might do, is
power fold mirrors.

I keep it under a lifted 4 post, and both mirrors have to come in
to get under lift. Was only a $280 option, and I effed up not getting it. My last 3/4 ton
Dodge had std mirrors, so didn't realize how insane the new trucks are with mirrors
sticking out 2 feet from the side of truck. :usa:
 
What's the general consensus regarding driving a truck around with no bed?
Bumper/lic plate/tail lights will be installed.

Will law enforcement harass me?

The question stems from buying a commercial rig (F-550/600).
I can mount my jobsite chest behind the cab as a temporary trunk.

Having ADD and mild OCD; it will take awhile to decide the set up I want.:grinpimp::homer:
 
CDA 455 II said:
What's the general consensus regarding driving a truck around with no bed?
Bumper/lic plate/tail lights will be installed.

Will law enforcement harass me?

The question stems from buying a commercial rig (F-550/600).
I can mount my jobsite chest behind the cab as a temporary trunk.

Having ADD and mild OCD; it will take awhile to decide the set up I want.:grinpimp::homer:
Click to expand...
I've seen a lot of people in a lot of states drive without a bed, but if it were me I'd at the very least have big 'ol mud flaps. If you didn't want to be bothered at all, cover those wheels.. because you might be lawful, but that doesn't mean the cop that pulls you over knows that, and I for one would rather avoid the hassle.
 
CDA 455 II said:
Pressure is being built up too, corrct?

I'm wondering if increased pressure is what causing the leak from the lower radiator hose/pump connection due to loose clamp.
Click to expand...
The lower radiator hose is under suction not pressure. That's why some lower hoses have a spring inside them. It's more likely that the hose is just old, or the aluminum is corroded and not sealing. I've had the timing covers corrode out on SBF's and start leaking.

Technically yes, if your thermostat is closed the pump will build pressure in the system. However the pump is not efficient enough to build much pressure. More pressure is built from the heat in the system than the spinning pump.
 
665.0coupe said:
The lower radiator hose is under suction not pressure. That's why some lower hoses have a spring inside them. It's more likely that the hose is just old, or the aluminum is corroded and not sealing. I've had the timing covers corrode out on SBF's and start leaking.

Technically yes, if your thermostat is closed the pump will build pressure in the system. However the pump is not efficient enough to build much pressure. More pressure is built from the heat in the system than the spinning pump.
Click to expand...
Dead head
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wide open
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Levigarrett76 said:
Youl likely be stuck in open loop and run rich (sub 176ish* ECT) other than that and engine probably wont warm up, nothing.
Click to expand...
nOOB thought
I'm thinking of trying it/experimenting while I'm waiting for the new t-stat to arrive.
Will there be minimum pressure/any pressure?

It'll cost me a new gasket, but...🤷‍♂️
 
Took it wheeling a couple weekends ago. Held up great, even used it to push my BIL XJ back over so it wouldn't roll.
It's had a gommed together exhaust for a while, Lots of little cut in pieces and a shitty muffler shop chambered bullet. Cut that off and ran a Magnaflow with mandrel bent pipes. Added a flange to make servicing the powertrain easier.
Headed to Good Evening Ranch in a few weeks

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