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What did you do for your ford today?

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Picked up another one, ‘87 f250 carb’d 460 c6 4.10 gears 4” lift, blue interior power windows and locks


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Plans are bodywork, paint it blue. FiTech efi?
 
CDA 455 II said:
nOOB thought
I'm thinking of trying it/experimenting while I'm waiting for the new t-stat to arrive.
Will there be minimum pressure/any pressure?

It'll cost me a new gasket, but...🤷‍♂️
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waste of time and coolant IMO, unless you're trying to do a full chemical flush on your cooling system. Then the high flow rate helps get everything washed out. Other than that, there's nothing to experiment with. It doesn't gain you anything.
 
Removed the PS turbo on a 3.5EB F150, replaced the leaking fitting, reassembled and drove it to work. $300 in Snap ON tools, fresh off the truck, a couple of ~$20 fittings and I saved almost $7k the dealer wanted to do the job. :eek:

It was a right good bitch to do, but for a day off, a couple hundred bucks, and some bruises and cuts it was worth it.
 
I would not do that unless you are flowing more water IN than out.

What is your actual concern and how old is the radiator? $ aside, would you consider a new one?
 
CDA 455 II said:
Is there a way to flush the radiator?

Open the radiator drain/remove radiator cap/garden hose spraying into radiator fill while engine running? 🤷‍♂️
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There are many was to do that, from flush kits which generally requires splicing in a garden hose coupler to manually doing it pulling the lower radiator hose. There are may videos on the Internet that can help you with the many ways.

The main issue today is you're not allowed to just dump the fluid, you have to dispose of it properly. I realize there are people who just dump it, but that it's not the right thing to do and against federal EPA regulations. Also, it's difficult to find a place that will take the fluid once you're done.

It's not a hard process really, but due to it being difficult to find a place to take the fluid I just wind up taking it to a place for them to power flush anymore. It's much more convenient.

And as Pony_Driver has asked, why are you wanting to do this?
 
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Spend all afternoon fiddling with the HF pressure pot blaster trying to get consistent flow out of my way too coarse media so I can blast and paint the Ranger frame.

The only setting that seems to work is fire-hose. Guess I'm gonna be blasting in 2min increments. :laughing:
 
Pony_Driver said:
I would not do that unless you are flowing more water IN than out.

What is your actual concern and how old is the radiator? $ aside, would you consider a new one?
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The radiator is three years new.

While replacing the lower hose I noticed the coolant was real dirty, and the fluid is three years old.
 
M92PV4U said:
Wish you were closer:homer:. Anyways try to get non stick gaskets.
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I wasn't real sure what was going to happen, figured there was a chance it would come apart cleanly :laughing:

as much as it seems more people like holley rather than edelbrock, i greatly appreciate how easy the edelbrock is to take apart, clean up and make adjustments to
 
CDA 455 II said:
The radiator is three years new.

While replacing the lower hose I noticed the coolant was real dirty, and the fluid is three years old.
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I just drain the coolant and run some cycles with fresh water. They have radiator flush but I've used it twice on old vehicles and they developed head gasket issues. The cleaner was probably not the cause, but I still won't use it.
 
Provience said:
I wasn't real sure what was going to happen, figured there was a chance it would come apart cleanly :laughing:

as much as it seems more people like holley rather than edelbrock, i greatly appreciate how easy the edelbrock is to take apart, clean up and make adjustments to
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I had a edelbrock that I could never get to run right :homer:, I've kitted and rejetted multiple holleys with good results.
 
M92PV4U said:
I had a edelbrock that I could never get to run right :homer:, I've kitted and rejetted multiple holleys with good results.
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i've got an annoying lean miss stabbing wide open throttle when unloaded. Done everything I can think of and can't get it cleared.

But I can rebuild it in the parking lot without making a mess :laughing:

being a 2 venturi, this holley should run really smooth once all the leaks get resolved.

 
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Got the sandblaster running well enough to get the rear frame. This took ~150lb of media but probably would have taken less if I had finer media. Also a blasting hood doesn't work in cold weather. I had to use my welding shield. The "20lb" HF pressure pot fits more or less exactly one 50lb bag of coal slag. Then gave it a thick coating of rustoleum "rusty metal" primer which I assume is just red oxide primer with some extra shit in it. Shit drys slooooow at 30deg. :laughing:

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Bought a pair of 2008 F350 fronts for my trail rig rebuild. Picked up a third for a buddy since I was at the jy already.

Now I’m researching if I can actually do what I envisioned by just spinning that front around and making it the rear without a bunch of retubing. If it becomes a real pita I’ll just pick up a matching 10.5” and run 4.88 instead of 5.38.

I think I bought myself a bunch of work.

Looking for deals on wheels now.
 

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Ditchrunner said:
Bought a pair of 2008 F350 fronts for my trail rig rebuild. Picked up a third for a buddy since I was at the jy already.

Now I’m researching if I can actually do what I envisioned by just spinning that front around and making it the rear without a bunch of retubing. If it becomes a real pita I’ll just pick up a matching 10.5” and run 4.88 instead of 5.38.

I think I bought myself a bunch of work.

Looking for deals on wheels now.
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'05+ axle pron!:smokin:
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