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What did you do for your ford today?

Drill bit to the distributor, still couldn't get it to sit down all the way. It weren't seated when i got the truck, but they all should be the same so not sure what i'm doing wrong :laughing:
Our well rig did that, there were burrs inside the distributor gear. The retained also fell off of the shaft and it pulled out of the oil pump, or something like that. Check those things out. The burrs were cleaned up with a allen wrench.
 
Tucked the F-100 in the toy shed till the weather gets nicer.

PXL_20240203_214714966.jpg
 
Finished up installing the S&B silicone body/cab mounts on my 96 Powerstroke this afternoon. Old bushings were starting to fall apart and the cab had sunk some on the back bushings. The S&B kit is expensive but it is also really nice with the removal tools, new bolts and shims. I had to shim the passenger side a little to get the body lines level with the bed.
 
Finished up installing the S&B silicone body/cab mounts on my 96 Powerstroke this afternoon. Old bushings were starting to fall apart and the cab had sunk some on the back bushings. The S&B kit is expensive but it is also really nice with the removal tools, new bolts and shims. I had to shim the passenger side a little to get the body lines level with the bed.
I need to do this on my Excursion. I have been putting it off because I don’t feel like pulling the interior yet.
 
Replaced the stock Warn winch rope today after noticing it shredding on the drum end while using it last weekend. It looks like the protective sheath on the drum end (I guess a heat shield) shredded and tore in half, inner rope had minor damage. No sharp edges on the bumper or fairlead to cut it and the drum was smooth, this was the first time I ever had to pull out the entire length to pull myself out.:confused:
Bought a Yankum ropes replacement winch line.
 
Do you make heavy pulls with it from time to time or long pulls with a chance it's been loose on the drum? Heat down there is likely the cause
 
No, I've only used the winch 5-6 times and it was for maybe 10-15 feet at a time to get myself out of snow each of those times:homer:. Truck is a heavy pig of an F350 at 7500# though and the last time was pulling the truck and trailer with a SxS on it. That pull was maybe 15' to get myself out of a snowbank.
 
What size rope? I'm just curious. Bottom wraps get covered to help with heat and grip, but from what sounds like mild use it shouldn't have been slipping or getting hot.

Wind the new cable under decent tension
 

I need to grab a metric measuring stick. I like spring clamps for many things
From what I've read they're supposed to be the ideal clamp for coolant hoses.
 
What size rope? I'm just curious. Bottom wraps get covered to help with heat and grip, but from what sounds like mild use it shouldn't have been slipping or getting hot.

Wind the new cable under decent tension
I don't know what size rope was on it stock, it is a Warn 12k winch with stock Sypdura rope. I replaced it with 7/16 yankum rope.

ETA. I rewound the rope on the drum under tension after I bought it.
 
You have to buy name brand ones.
Even just hardware store ones are great IMO.

It's the shit you buy in a pack of many by the checkout at HF or Autozone that sucks.

INB4 A reddit engineer shows up to tell us how spring clamps are superior because they have properties that don't matter in 99% of applications where hose clamps are used, are faster to install in a setting that nobody here is working in and rust out more readily. :flipoff2:


From what I've read they're supposed to be the ideal clamp for coolant hoses.
The whole "constant tension" bullshit the proponents spew doesn't really translate to real world experience outside of the most demanding applications (i.e. applications where something else is marginal making the hose clamp have to pick up some slack).

The other reason idiots like the spring clamps is because they go on faster in bulk on the assembly line. Save maybe the most easily accessible of upper and lower radiator hoses this goes right out the window once all the other shit gets put on making it harder to get at the clamp.

A middling quality all stainless hose clamp and installed to "as tight as you can make it with a screwdriver" or "lightly tightened with a short ratchet" level of tension will outlive the hose several times over.
 
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Learned today worm hose clamps suck.

Way better than the quick release bs they have been putting on hoses for years now. Getting those to release (cutting them apart) is way worse that messing with old hose clamps. Although reinstallation of new heater hoses was super easy.
 
Even just hardware store ones are great IMO.

It's the shit you buy in a pack of many by the checkout at HF or Autozone that sucks.

INB4 A reddit engineer shows up to tell us how spring clamps are superior because they have properties that don't matter in 99% of applications where hose clamps are used, are faster to install in a setting that nobody here is working in and rust out more readily. :flipoff2:

The whole "constant tension" bullshit the proponents spew doesn't really translate to real world experience outside of the most demanding applications (i.e. applications where something else is marginal making the hose clamp have to pick up some slack).

The other reason idiots like the spring clamps is because they go on faster in bulk on the assembly line. Save maybe the most easily accessible of upper and lower radiator hoses this goes right out the window once all the other shit gets put on making it harder to get at the clamp.


A middling quality all stainless hose clamp and installed to "as tight as you can make it with a screwdriver" or "lightly tightened with a short ratchet" level of tension will outlive the hose several times over.
In 1972; I would agree with you.
In 1982 I would agree with you.
In 1992; I would agree with you.

However; since 2000 with the ChiComs taking over so much manufacturing, the stuff isn't the same quality anymore.
There's less material, and tolerances are incredibly loose.

The hose clamp M92PV4U suggested; that used to be the standard/run of the mill, now it's the exception.

Since I started working on my Bronco in '20, I've really noticed this.
 
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Way better than the quick release bs they have been putting on hoses for years now. Getting those to release (cutting them apart) is way worse that messing with old hose clamps. Although reinstallation of new heater hoses was super easy.
I keep a large plastic jar of assortment of worm clamps (a habit since '81).
They are now designated as 'better-than-nothing' clamp-assist.

I'm going to now invest in T-bolt clamp collection (like my plastic jar of assortment) as a more permanent/serious clamp.
 
I had the same issues as you with hose clamps, I’d break those fucking things every time (from auto zone etc). I bought a stainless kit on Amazon that had good reviews and it was a night and day difference. Was it still made overseas? Yeah, pretty sure it was. But it was leaps and bounds higher quality than the shit you buy at the common auto parts stores.

Seems for every 10 or so shitty overseas manufacturer there’s one quality one. One opinion I’ve seen shared (possibly here) is that manufacturers in Taiwan are pretty good. Same with Japan. YMMV.
 
In 1972; I would agree with you.
In 1982 I would agree with you.
In 1992; I would agree with you.

However; since 2000 with the ChiComs taking over so much manufacturing, the stuff isn't the same quality anymore.
There's less material, and tolerances are incredibly loose.

The hose clamp M92PV4U suggested; that used to be the standard/run of the mill, now it's the exception.

Since I started working on my Bronco in '20, I've really noticed this.
I wasn't buying hose clamps before 2000 and I think the new stuff is fine. :laughing:
 

I need to grab a metric measuring stick. I like spring clamps for many things
Fuck those things, they've resulted in my fingers being smashed enough :laughing:.
 
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