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What did you do for your ford today?

Made sure lower hose clamp to tightened.
Started the engine and let said engine get to operating temp...

Still leaking/nothing fuggin' changed.
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Can't locate the exact point where it's leaking.

The closest I can come to is behind the water pump somewhere.
Like; between the front main seal and pump/timing chain cover area.

Thoughts/suggestions?
 
CDA 455 II said:
Is there a way to flush the radiator?

Open the radiator drain/remove radiator cap/garden hose spraying into radiator fill while engine running? 🤷‍♂️
Click to expand...


Did pretty much this to my bronco last year, but with extra manual flushing of the block and radiator of the sediment using a garden hose when the lower rad hose was off.
 
CDA 455 II said:
nOOB question:
How is this done?
Click to expand...
While I had rad hoses disconnected for flushing, I ran water through the block and through the radiator until it ran clear. Then hooked the rad hoses back up, filled up with water, drove around the yard, dumped the water, repeat until water runs clear every time.
CDA 455 II said:
Interesting;
Remove the t-stat/reinstall t-stat housing/flush cooling system.🤔
Click to expand...
Tstat is removed so you get instant flow.

You can flush/dump the cooling system way faster when you're not driving around for 15 minutes to get to operating temp just to get some coolant flow, then having to wait until it's fully cooled off so you can touch it again.
 
willis_racing said:
While I had rad hoses disconnected for flushing, I ran water through the block and through the radiator until it ran clear. Then hooked the rad hoses back up, filled up with water, drove around the yard, dumped the water, repeat until water runs clear every time.
Click to expand...
nOOB question:
How did you run water through the block?

willis_racing said:
Tstat is removed so you get instant flow.

You can flush/dump the cooling system way faster when you're not driving around for 15 minutes to get to operating temp just to get some coolant flow, then having to wait until it's fully cooled off so you can touch it again.
Click to expand...
What do you think of this nOOB idea:
1) Remove t-stat/reinstall t-stat housing.
2) Install a Prestone flush kit.
3) Do the flush until water run clear.

For clarity:
1) I understand how to flush the radiator as you described.✅
2) I'm unclear on how to flush the block and heater system.:question:
 
CDA 455 II said:
nOOB question:
How did you run water through the block?


What do you think of this nOOB idea:
1) Remove t-stat/reinstall t-stat housing.
2) Install a Prestone flush kit.
3) Do the flush until water run clear.

For clarity:
1) I understand how to flush the radiator as you described.✅
2) I'm unclear on how to flush the block and heater system.:question:
Click to expand...
By shoving the garden hose into the thermostat housing and letting it run out of the water pump. see attached artists' rendition
modernart.png


(my truck has a 300 btw, ymmv)
 
willis_racing said:
By shoving the garden hose into the thermostat housing and letting it run out of the water pump. see attached artists' rendition
modernart.png


(my truck has a 300 btw, ymmv)
Click to expand...
aaaaaaaah!:idea::lmao::homer:
Thanks for clarity.:beer:


What's your pinions/thoughts on this?
CDA 455 II said:
What do you think of this nOOB idea:
1) Remove t-stat/reinstall t-stat housing.
2) Install a Prestone flush kit.
3) Do the flush until water run clear.
Click to expand...

My nOOB thought is that it includes flushing the heater. 🤷‍♂️
 
RECOMMENDATIONS ON THE FOLLOWING PARTS:
1) Water pump
2) Timing chain (true double roller?)
3) Timing chain cover
4) Harmonic balancer

Water pump is 4y.o.; replace it?

Timing chain is original (262,000 miles).

I'm W.A.G.'ing the leak is coming from between the water pump and timing cover.

The harmonic balance feels tight when I attempt to shake it but it wobbles when spinning; like it's tilted on the axis.

I already bought new upper/lower radiator hoses and T-stat.

Suggestions and tips are always welcome; thanks.:beer:
 
Set of Falken Wildpeak AT/4's installed on the F250 today... replaced the stock Goodyear Duratracs.


So far, they are significantly smoother and quieter... and slightly taller (35.1",iirc)... Loved the AT/3's... hoping these are as good.
 
rockota said:
Set of Falken Wildpeak AT/4's installed on the F250 today... replaced the stock Goodyear Duratracs.


So far, they are significantly smoother and quieter... and slightly taller (35.1",iirc)... Loved the AT/3's... hoping these are as good.
Click to expand...
Got pic?

What size?
 
rockota said:
no pics yet.. 285/75-18.

they look a tad skinnier than the Goodyears...
Click to expand...
Were the goodyears 275/70r18?

My 275/70r18 factory goodyear wranglers will need replaced end of summer likely. Back and forth between 285/75r18 and 295/70r18
 
Levigarrett76 said:
Were the goodyears 275/70r18?

My 275/70r18 factory goodyear wranglers will need replaced end of summer likely. Back and forth between 285/75r18 and 295/70r18
Click to expand...
factory Tremor Duratracs... 285/75-18...

They're sitting in the garage if you want them... sell them cheap. Sitting at about 50-60% tread (25k miles).
 
Finished repaying a valve cover gasket on the explorer. Can't tell yet if it's still leaking or just burning off old oil.

Also getting ready to tear into this. It's been down for a couple years. It developed a noticeable ticking while mowing one day. Back then I pulled the exhaust manifold and put some copper rtv on it just to see if it effected anything, it didn't. Also pulled the valve cover and adjusted them, no change. From what I remember when I cracked the injector line for cly 1 and 2 there was a drop in engine rpm but #3 didn't change anything. So im wondering if it's a bad injector. Since it's been a couple years though I thought I'd try to drop the pan to make sure its not full of glitter and the oil pickup isn't clogged. Not sure what's going on yet, hopefully it's easy.

1000001883.jpg
 
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Put 300 miles on the turd today. 01 excursion 6.8, hour before the tire blew cc commanded 80% throttle cause speed dipped 1mph due to a .02% grade.

It tried to rev to 3k+ rpm’s nothing but sputters. Kicked off the cruise and resumed foot control.

Fuel filter was replaced months ago. Seems like it’s running out of fuel. Under 3k it’s “fine” lean on it and it’s sputtering. Monday I’ll test pressure at idle and driving. Only replaced the filter cause it rusted through….

Early on today I did wind it up to 4k a few times and it was all there.

3ish years ago it did the same but worse For a few months. Driving along and all is fine, then no power suddenly seemed like it was losing fuel pressure. Cycle the key off on in gear while moving and it was fine for 30 min or so till it repeated behavior. Key off on all was well again.

One day it stopped fuckin up until today.

Dash Volt gauge almost always reads low I’d guess 10v based on needle position, Yet 13.8 at the battery idling, bright lights and all.

No cel
 
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