War Pig Version 12

[aczlan]

You are talking where you put the ball mount in at the back, correct? As long as you dont cause it to shrink from welding (think welding the inside of a bearing race to get it to pull free), I dont see why it would be a problem.

Aaron Z

 

[Grendel]

You are talking where you put the ball mount in at the back, correct? As long as you dont cause it to shrink from welding (think welding the inside of a bearing race to get it to pull free), I dont see why it would be a problem.

Aaron Z

No, the cross bar that holds the receiver hitch. I want to weld it into the side plates and the 3" .25" wall tubes.

See the silver? I want to weld the 2.5" OD to the 3.5" ID tube on both sides.

 

[Dan]

I would slide that larger tube inboard to cover up that hole. You only need enough sticking out (of the hitch plates) to lay down a good fillet weld. If you can get that larger tube to land in the middle of those two holes that's what I would shoot for.

Does that smaller tube extend all the way out?

Edit: And I would personally weld the whole thing out for peace of mind. I don't think it matters, which is probably why some are and some aren't. I'm also not an engineer, that's just how I would do it. I'd plug that other hole and grind it smooth while I was at it.

 

[Grendel]

yeah, I can weld inside and outside.

My thought about not doing it all is HAZ creating fracture points on the pull bar.

 

[TrailTamer]

What you plan to tow it with?

I’d probably want to add some kind of truss to middle, as the span seem long, if it’ll see >10,000 lbs GTW and over a ton of tongue weight.

<10,000 lbs GTW, just weld & send it

my $0.02

 

[Dan]

I'd say it's fine for a class 4. We used to span them up to 43" just like that (but without the outer sleeves). I'm guessing that's a 32"-36" wide chassis?

 

[Grendel]

Yep, it's 34" frame width - .25" wall, 2.5" tube.
The outer pieces are 3" .25" wall tube.

The factory tube was set for a bunch of different frame widths.

 

[[486]]

I'd weld it out, I used to worry about leaving spaces between stitch welds so that only one or two will break at a time
nowadays I'd rather keep the salt water out from between the two pieces

if you're worried about cracking (and it's actual hardenable steel) then just do some post heat, looks like a good height to toss a turkey fryer under it before and after welding

ETA: hell, the framerail extensions would worry me a lot more than the hitch being welded on

 

[Benny]

I would probably weld it all the way around, but keep the penetration on the small tube to a minimum so the HAZ doesn't go all the way through.

 

[Grendel]

Frame rail extensions are 3/16" and fish plated all around.

They are stronger than the frame.

 

[Thatg9659]

Rooster booster said not too so go ahead and do it just because

He went all out displaying the amount the frame will flex on straight trucks.

 

[Grendel]

Rooster booster said not too so go ahead and do it just because

He went all out displaying the amount the frame will flex on straight trucks.

Funny, I should ask him. We're on FB a lot.

 

[Thatg9659]

Funny, I should ask him. We're on FB a lot.

Hope it doesn’t seem like I’m aware any axe is long buried. Rooster built some cool shit, too bad that trans was f’d I wanted to see a turbo on the idi slightly stinky pump setting and those stax!

 

[Grendel]

Hope it doesn’t seem like I’m aware any axe is long buried. Rooster built some cool shit, too bad that trans was f’d I wanted to see a turbo on the idi slightly stinky pump setting and those stax!

No, not at all.

That truck was way better with a Cummins in it. Sorry.

 

[Thatg9659]

No, not at all.

That truck was way better with a Cummins in it. Sorry.

I can’t argue about 7.3 vs 8.3 especially with the cylinders in the proper orientation.

 

[kbenz]

weld it up and send it

 

[[486]]

He went all out displaying the amount the frame will flex on straight trucks.

which is why the uprights from the square tube are simply flat plate and not flanged, boxed or beaded

they're supposed to flex when the frame twists

 

[Grendel]

This isn't a big rig chassis. The suspension will out move the frame, by design and never see the weight or box/bed size the big trucks do. I am building it to be rigid, like a coil sprung frame should. Due to the Duramax in front, I am thinking about full frame 3/16" box plates. The engine crossmember is round 1.5" OD, .25" wall tube. The trans and transfer case cross members will be too.

The internal 1.5" OD, .25" wall cage will also tie into the frame, with bushings and we have plans to redo all the sketchy body mounts. When I say body mounts, I mean the 4 C30 based that are barely scabbed on. This will get 6 new ones, plus the cage mounts and a 2"x4" rocker guards with drop down steps.

My rear side plates are flanged and they're also 2 pieces of 3/16" thick laminate. The hitch plates also work as my outside, frame extension fish plates. So my frame extension is triple 3/16" laminated... The box tube is fully welded and covered the 4 .5" bolts used to originally put it together. Still doing final weld out, but I have to fit a Chi-com 17,500 lb. winch back there, along with a 52g stainless tank in a 3/16" thick skid plate.

The rear winch gets a custom winch plate, that mounts the winch upside down and ties into the frame's top and bottom flanges. I'll admit, I am cheating as I have the old transmission cross member that will give up it's upper flange tie ins.

The truck will be around 9,500 lbs. when done. It's titled at 25,999 lbs. It's one of the reasons I went with 15.5" brakes with 6 pistons. if the Sterling 10.5" isn't up to it, I have a D110 that I have to re-gear to match to 4.30 the front. I'd also stick an e-locker in it.

So 15K lbs. on a trailer is reasonable. The rear hitch won't see more than 14K, but it's all Class 5 rated (15.5K lbs.).

So, now that the suspension is mostly done, I am doing the frame, front, back to front. Hitch, winch, 52g fuel cell, modular fifth wheel and goose neck hitch, divorced Ford NP205, Allison, Duramax and then all the radiator support mods then another 17,500 lb. winch in a front bumper. These winches are cheap, work well but are getting more expensive... bought 4 for 270 (each) shipped and they're now 100 more.

The fuel tank will have a bed side fill bolted to the old sending unit location, the mil fill is now an inspection/clean out port.

So I am looking for a 800hp capable fuel pump to put in a US Car fuel ring that will get welded to the M932A2 fuel tank. Thinking about a Fleece PowerFlo Lift Pump for an LML. It's 18" long, flows 160gph at 10 PSI, which is what my D-max needs.

I wish it were as cheap as the AC Delco LT4 fuel pumps I use in the gas jobs.

2011-2016 LML Duramax PowerFlo In-tank Lift Pump (Long Bed) Fleece Performance Engineering, Inc.: Innovating Diesel Performance

2011-2016 LML Duramax PowerFlo In-tank Lift Pump (Long Bed)

www.fleeceperformance.com

Any one have other ideas?

 

[Grendel]

Well, sometimes you just have to drop the dough. I bought the Fleece set up for an LML since it had all the height I needed for my 52g tank.

I also bent up the winch plate and got that in.

Oh and cleaned up all the sheet metal we got in. Next it the bed... but you can see the step side fenders here.

 

[DNL]

Valence looks like it turned out really nice! I didn’t even think it was saveable until you convinced me …

 

[Grendel]

Valence looks like it turned out really nice! I didn’t even think it was saveable until you convinced me …

Yeah, we have about 20 hours into it.

 

[Grendel]

Dang IH thinks it's a Ford. Had to lift the cab off to install the Duramax and Allison.

It has to come off to get sand blasted anyway.

 

[Grendel]

But it fits. The Ford steering box needed to come off, it wants to live where the water pump does. Of course, once it was all in, the F150 box fits, with a half inch to spare.

 

[Grendel]

Building engine stands now.

 

[Grendel]

Got the Ford NP205 back from the builder. 1550 input, 1410 outputs. Should be able to use the same Ford F350 driveshaft front and rear.

We build a skid plate mount for it and will use stock studs and bushings to hang it. I also have the Ford mounts to use.

Thanks shortbus4x4

 

[WaterH]

I thought you said this was not for serious wheeling. Looks like a serious skid plate.

 

[bdkw1]

I thought you said this was not for serious wheeling. Looks like a serious skid plate.

That's a pretty poor location for a skid plate, bottom of the box would work better.

 

[Grendel]

It's not a skid plate. It's a skid plate mount.

 

[Grendel]

That's a pretty poor location for a skid plate, bottom of the box would work better.

I think you're blind.

The mount goes completely around it, so if the skid hits something, it transfers to the bushings. So, yes, the skid will be on the bottom.

We dropped the cab back down, engine looks like it's lived there all it's life.

Cab will drop another inch, when I redo the hokey assed body mounts and firewall.

 

[shortbus4x4]

Got the Ford NP205 back from the builder. 1550 input, 1410 outputs. Should be able to use the same Ford F350 driveshaft front and rear.

We build a skid plate mount for it and will use stock studs and bushings to hang it. I also have the Ford mounts to use.

Thanks shortbus4x4

Lol. That transfercase has seen some miles in the last couple of years getting to its final destination. Looking good.