War Pig Version 12

[Grendel]

For the front, with the radius arms? Would seem unnecessary to me, vs just putting a panhard in.

Radius arms need a pan hard. I'd probably do four paralleled links with one, too.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Radius arms need a pan hard. I'd probably do four paralleled links with one, too.

I know radius arms need a panhard. Was thinking you could do triangulated upper links with the radius arms serving as your lower links. Seems like more work for no benefit, unless you can't use the radius arms.

 

[WaterH]

I am also pondering a 4 link with the factory D60 mounts and the arms I have.

Thoughts?

I've thought of this also. The factory mounts are plenty strong and your arms should work. Not sure about the "lack of separation" on the mounts. I don't suppose your going to be hardcore wheeling with this truck.

 

[Grendel]

I've looked into the divorced 271s a little, the topkicks apparently are passenger side drop, have beefed up housings to support mounting, and parts are discontinued

Torque king doesn't seem to address mounting

I would think that a laser cut piece of plate on the front as the main part of a cradle would work

I'd like to see what you come up with, as I'll be building a similar truck a few years out

https://torqueking.com/product/30172...transfer-case/

So you can buy the 273 housings with the cast in support... thing is, they drop on the other side.

I did find the GM super 60 differentials, too.

 

[Projectjunkie]

I'd give them a call and see what they have to say, if guys are converting them and running them, goferit, otherwise things start to snowball going passenger side

 

[Grendel]

I'd give them a call and see what they have to say, if guys are converting them and running them, goferit, otherwise things start to snowball going passenger side

No interest, I know what I am doing.

We have the engine crossmember in. Waiting for the 1550 axle shafts, to rebuild the front end and also waiting for the radius arm brackets I had laser cut to get in, so I can weld them up.

Working on the pan hard bar, too.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

No interest, I know what I am doing.

Lol. Watching intently.

 

[Grendel]

Lol. Watching intently.

Well, so I ordered the NV271 divorced input from Torque King on Jan 16th. Paid in full.

Still don't have it.

Still don't need it yet, but starting to acquire parts for plan B, which is a Ford divorced NP205.

1410 rear shaft, 1410 to 1650 jack shaft and not sure if doing 1350 or 1410 for the front.

Sort of thinking about same length shafts, same joints, etc.

Big Ugly had the IH divorced T-case, so it's not a bad deal.

 

[Grendel]

Also planning a complete re-wire, since a lot of this truck is a fire waiting to happen... like the 70psi fuel pump on the front frame rail on 20g wire.

 

[Grendel]

So the reason for Ford axles? Big assed brakes. To the point where I am going to a local boned yard for a 2013 front axle, just for the knuckles, for bigger brakes.

Got the rears done today. Brake plumbing next, bought all stainless lines for it.

 

[Provience]

new brake parts always look good

 

[Grendel]

Playing with radius arms and up travel before the upper arms hit the frame.

The plan is 38's in place of the 35" rollers. Tires should be in the fenders before the upper links are in the frame.

Will run Timbrens as bump stops... and I have to avoid building this like a crawler. It's a street queen.

Will cut the lowers to move the dropped mounts inline with the trans cross member and grab factory bolt holes.

Tire will come back about 2"

 

[WaterH]

It may be optical illusion, but in that first pic, it looks like you hit the frame hard enough to bend the lower slightly?

 

[Grendel]

It may be optical illusion, but in that first pic, it looks like you hit the frame hard enough to bend the lower slightly?

No clue, they've never been under suspension, IE not bent.

 

[Grendel]

Brake plumbing is in. Getting down to all the little stuff in the back, like using 73 Bronco rear upper shock mounts to line up to the staggered shocks of the Ford rear end. Doing the Ford sway bars, too.

I am looking for a chart of Bilstein shock lengths to get shocks going soon.

 

[Grendel]

Ride height set, staying with the radius arms. The bed needs to be levelled, need to cut the janky rear most body mounts to move the bed forward 2".

Will need some Timbrens to keep the pig out of the oil pan at stuff.

38's will clear easily.

I think we got the successor to Big Ugly.

 

[WaterH]

Are you going to have some running boards? Looks like a tall step now. (Are the tires in the pic 38's)

 

[Grendel]

Are you going to have some running boards? Looks like a tall step now. (Are the tires in the pic 38's)

Tires are 35's

I plan to do drop down running boards.

Might also do sliders.

 

[Grendel]

I updated the first post, with the final build plan, since I am actively stuffing stuff under it now.

 

[arse_sidewards]

Was this the kind of front body work you were looking for?

https://newhaven.craigslist.org/hvo/d/1800-international-10-wheeler-dump-truck/7290060371.html

I think the dude (or his heirs) is cleaning out an entire property of "cool stuff I'll get around to eventually".

 

[Grendel]

That's too big. Up to the 1600 series is the same as this C1500.

 

[Grendel]

Oh and I have the front radius arms in, and wheel base set.

Pics with the differential into the engine crossmember. Can stuff a 38" tire easily. Radius arm doesn't touch the frame, which was a concern. A 4" drop is enough from this frame.

Now to figure out if I am doing coils and shocks or coil overs in the front. Leaning towards F350 take offs.

 

[Java230]

For suspension, do you want cheap or not? Id go Coil Over if you want to spend the $$

 

[Grendel]

For suspension, do you want cheap or not? Id go Coil Over if you want to spend the $$

Between brackets, quality shocks and springs, vs coil over, they're about the same cost, I have coil over brackets already. I'd buy stock Ford upper coil buckets, with an integrated shock mount and space them off the frame.

Thing is, I doubt coil overs would handle the winter salt and go 100K + miles.

 

[ParadisePWoffrd]

Between brackets, quality shocks and springs, vs coil over, they're about the same cost, I have coil over brackets already. I'd buy stock Ford upper coil buckets, with an integrated shock mount and space them off the frame.

Thing is, I doubt coil overs would handle the winter salt and go 100K + miles.

If you can find coils with the correct rate to give a good ride, factory takeoff springs and shocks should provide better longevity and replacement in the future. Everytime I think of putting coilovers on my tow rig to improve the ride quality, I think about being able to repair/replace a blown shock in some small town while on a wheeling trip.

 

[Grendel]

If you can find coils with the correct rate to give a good ride, factory takeoff springs and shocks should provide better longevity and replacement in the future. Everytime I think of putting coilovers on my tow rig to improve the ride quality, I think about being able to repair/replace a blown shock in some small town while on a wheeling trip.

Yep, that is my thought too. F350 springs and shocks are easy to come by... and this will weigh about the same.

 

[Java230]

Between brackets, quality shocks and springs, vs coil over, they're about the same cost, I have coil over brackets already. I'd buy stock Ford upper coil buckets, with an integrated shock mount and space them off the frame.

Thing is, I doubt coil overs would handle the winter salt and go 100K + miles.

Very valid point. It's a trade off between a little better ride, but not easy to find parts

 

[Grendel]

Then again, this probably won't see the winter or 100K miles.

Going back and forth on function vs pretty. Going to soda blast all the sheet metal, do rust repair, etc. Do I go back to flat black or do something like high gold flake root beer with all black accents?

Talked with Phil Licciardi, Sillyneck on the old board. He has a set of Fox 12x2.5 CO's sitting on his shelf... that would fit the upper and lower shock mounts I own. Very tempting, since he can tune them pretty well for this heavy pig. 12/500 over 14/500 springs - Packaging is easier too.

I have an F350 coming on Sunday to pull some measurements from. Trying to see how much I'd have to move the $200.00 coil buckets off the frame. Plus $180 Bilstein 5100's and $300 for a pair of good springs. I have the buckets, but could use them for something else. Would have to obtain coil springs and shocks.

Ok, so CO's would still be twice the price, not including the stuff I already own...

 

[Grendel]

I am starting the sheet metal process, hammer and dolly work and of course, welding up stress cracks.
Do I leave her battle scars visible and go matte black again?
Do I sand them all the way down and go pristine?
Will be a work truck, with a crane in the reinforced bed, on 40" aggressive tires, with stacks.
Light bar stays. Doing 17,500lb winches front and rear. Duramax diesel, with an air compressor on it. Interior will be plush. Matte black by previous owner. There's 8+ coats of paint on it.

If I go full nuts body work, thinking Hugger Orange or Root Beer with heavy metal flake. Either would have blacked out chrome, rims etc.

If I redid the matte black and scars, it would have chrome.


I have a rendering being worked on.

Pics of the much better step side fenders and front panel gap on the bed.

 

[arse_sidewards]

When you put "crane in the reinforced bed, on 40" aggressive tires, with stacks" in the CL ad the crowd that shows up isn't gonna care about a couple dings.