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War Pig Version 12

I can get more. I am pondering cutting into the main strength tube, where it comes out at the fenders.

Haven't cut the bumper since we sectioned it. Been all frame side work.

I wouldn’t go so far back that the corner of the body is not over the bumper, but I think you have a ways to go there. I always like the fist thing to hit something must be the bumper. For example, if you hit a speed limit sign. You want the post to hit and start bending away from your truck. That’s just an example, I hardly ever hit speed limit signs.
 
I wouldn’t go so far back that the corner of the body is not over the bumper, but I think you have a ways to go there. I always like the fist thing to hit something must be the bumper. For example, if you hit a speed limit sign. You want the post to hit and start bending away from your truck. That’s just an example, I hardly ever hit speed limit signs.
Should change your name to Captain Obvious :flipoff2:
 
I am doing the shifter boxes today. I need to drop just the cables through, as there's very little clearance on the trans hump to transmission.
 

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So my bed's 64" across from where the fenders start to roll back to the bed side. 73.5" across to outside of both fenders.

The hummer bumper is 86" wide, so lots to cut and make what I want for the rear.
 
Pulled it back to get a good look at it and move stuff around the driveway.

Will cut the flange out of the middle of the bumper, where the trans cooler will live. Also have lights and stuff.

Obviously, the winch and plate will fit the lower gaps nicely.

With bigger and wider spaced tires, it will look right.

I did some quick and dirty plasma work.
 

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So, not happy with how tall this bumper makes the truck look, I am taking in tomorrow to cut it outside of the bumperettes on the red line. This moves the entire bumper up 2" and reduces how ungainly it looks.

The bumperettes stay though. Will re-plate it.


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So, not happy with how tall this bumper makes the truck look, I am taking in tomorrow to cut it on the red line. This moves the entire bumper up 2" and reduces how ungainly it looks.

The bumperettes stay though. Will re-plate it.
Cutting the bottom section off?
 
Ok, I will reserve judgment! You always execute your vision.
Lol, thanks. In your mind, move the bumper up until the red line is just under the marker lights.

Then do high steer on the SD60 axle, so there's no steering linkage in view.
 
Lol, thanks. In your mind, move the bumper up until the red line is just under the marker lights.

Then do high steer on the SD60 axle, so there's no steering linkage in view.
So flat across the top? Are you going to retain the curve on the front corner out to the ends or just make it stop and flat at the ends with a square corner at the front?

Aaron Z
 
So flat across the top? Are you going to retain the curve on the front corner out to the ends or just make it stop and flat at the ends with a square corner at the front?

Aaron Z
it will be flat across the top to match the valence lines.

It will be curved and protect the front and sides of the fenders.

(also hide a fender that's been hit and out of whack)
 
it will be flat across the top to match the valence lines.

It will be curved and protect the front and sides of the fenders.

(also hide a fender that's been hit and out of whack)
Sorry if I was unclear, I was talking about the curve where the front of the bumper and the top of the bumper meet, highlighted this picture:
Screenshot_20221229-171244-809.png

Will you move that curve down, or just make a cut following your red line and make the new top of the bumper have a flat edge there for the last 10-12(ish) inches?
Or is that all just an optical illusion and it's already flat across there and you'll just be trimming the part where the diamond plate sticks up in the back of the bumper off?

Aaron Z
 
There's no curve. It's 5" pipe, cut and welded in 3 angles. Up, out and back.

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Lol, thanks. In your mind, move the bumper up until the red line is just under the marker lights.

Then do high steer on the SD60 axle, so there's no steering linkage in view.
No just chop the the hangy down bits off.
 
Took some time away from cutting up an expensive bumper to do some little things:
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I bought an MRAP air tank auction... thought I was getting one, more like one pallet of them. They're handy though, for a truck that won't have air brakes. I also moved the fuel filters up higher on the chassis.
Next will be to cut off the badly welded Timbrens mount the PO welded on. I am pondering air bags - helper bags on leaves or a Ford F550 air bag set up. My friends say the Timbrens lasted this long, clean up the welds and let them go... but they're welded on at an angle as they didn't take out the old bump stops.

Also pulled a set of Bilstein 5150 shocks off the shelf... they're for a F350 rear that's lifted 6". Really good fit in the front. Measured for rear shocks, will take the longest 5150 that Bilstein makes.
 
And I got the exhaust hung and the tail pipe done.

Will cut the tail pipe when the bed's on.

Hangers alternate - take weight, locate pipe, take weight, etc. She's solid. Flex pipe is dead neutral.

Now waiting for the oil filter relocation kit.
 

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This may make sense now... it also may be an hella expensive mistake.

Will plate it with 1/8" diamond plate, inside the tape of the 4th pic.
 

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