War Pig Version 12

Decided to go with 4" weed burner exhaust, right out the back.
 
Now for T304 stainless exhaust, 4", bought from Summit Racing.
 
Big Ugly, the 2nd of her name, 12th War Pig – the work list:

  • Move brake pedal arm to other side of column – connect to booster
    • Install Lokar auto brake pedal
  • Mount Duramax Lokar throttle pedal
  • Fabricate Center console to rendering.
    • Mount and configure twin sticks for t-case (may need new shift rails)
    • Mount and configure trans shifter.
  • Mount and configure parking brake handle to trans and both rear axle brakes.
  • Weld exhaust with v-bands, stainless exhaust hangers – stainless wire
  • Mount front FabFours bumper and Warn winch.
  • Build and mount rear MOVE bumper with Warn winch.
  • Bedliner bed.
  • Make front pan hard bar match steering angle via a lower mount extension.
  • Weld transfer case mount to side plates and drill/bolt in.
  • Weld rear spring perches after setting pinion angle and side to side.
  • Gusset sway bar mounts.
  • Add lock nuts to the pan hard bar and paint.
  • Mount steering shock mount and shock.
  • Cut rear frame.
  • Add rear frame extensions.
  • Add trailer hitch.
  • Mount bed.
  • Nut and bolt entire truck. Example – Missing nuts and washers on engine mount bolts.
  • Paint frame and all accoutrements black.
Re-do all body work.
Paint interior.
Paint exterior.
  • Mount air tanks.
  • Install glass.
Wire
  • Kenwood DMX1057XR centered
  • Dakota Digital under it 4000-K-K
  • Dakota Digital Clock
  • Dakota digital delayed accessory power
  • American Auto wire harness for chassis
  • Remote starter and alarm
  • Trans shifter back light
  • Air compressor, relay, switch, and gauge
  • Power door locks – IH door handles unlock doors plus one 99022-B switch on console
  • Power windows
  • Electric life 99022-B switches – side by side four in console. One sideways on top for door locks – they are lit with dash lights.
  • One on each rear door
  • Dakota Digital HDX-60C-PU in a custom carrier. Ignition, headlight (headlight dimmer to carry second pot for Dakota stuff), and wiper knobs left of the steering column, factory positions, with light boxes from CJ7.
  • Vintage Air HVAC
  • Dual Batteries on frame
  • Switches, Carling back lit via headlight switch, dimmed:
    • Driver’s seat heater
    • Front/rear winch power
    • Front winch/in/out
    • Rear winch in/out
    • Fog lights
    • Driving lights
    • Air compressor
    • Roof spotlights
    • Rear winch power
    • Passenger seat heater
  • Phone pad on console with Mophie Snap Plus 15W charging station
  • LED back up lights and alarm with trans switch.
  • Back up camera
Plumb:
  • Air gauge and tank, plus air fittings in front and rear bumpers to York.
  • Fuel to fuel filters and engine
  • Full filler to fuel tank
  • Check all brake plumbing/hoses
For TMS:
  • De-loom, clean up factory Duramax harness.
  • Cleanly mount all control modules
  • Make Duramax harness control the Fleece in tank fuel pump.
  • Make cleaned and streamlined Duramax harness fit the chassis harness, chassis and cab.
  • Re-loom / re -tape and tie down the harness.
  • Fire it over and make it run.
  • Plumb and mount air box
  • Tune for 550 HP (five tunes on a switch) and Trans longevity.
 

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Also, since I decided to not use stacks, I need to cut the rear frame.
 

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SLOWPOKE693 said:
What do stacks and the rear of the frame have to do with one another?

Are you going to move the winch/hitch mount back and under the bed or are you going to remove that part?
Click to expand...
The winch will move to the rear bumper. Hitch will be a part of the rear bumper assembly too.


IMG_6043.jpg

aczlan said:
IIRC the stacks were going to go between the cab and the bed.

Aaron Z
Click to expand...
Ayup.

So bending up 12.5" frame extensions and cutting 24.5" fish plates. Will tie into my shackle hangers and fuel tank mount.
 
What fuckery is this?

Cutting up a new Fab Fours winch bumper?

Yeah, I had it, no, they'd don't make one for a IH body on a GM frame...
 

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Frame extensions done. Even though they won't ever see the suspension weight, I did fish plate them. Those plates go past the rear shackle hanger.

I really disliked having to do a straight butt weld, but I didn't want to splice in a suspended frame section.

It's all .25", it won't go anywhere.

The fuel tank mount is also a reinforcement, plus the hitch, so there are multiple tie ins for that splice.

I will mount the cross member once I cut the extensions to length with the bed on.
 

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Grendel said:
Frame extensions done. Even though they won't ever see the suspension weight, I did fish plate them. Those plates go past the rear shackle hanger.

I really disliked having to do a straight but weld, but I didn't want to splice in a suspended frame section.

It's all .25", it won't go anywhere.

The fuel tank mount is also a reinforcement, plus the hitch, so there are multiple tie ins for that splice.

I will mount the cross member once I cut the extensions to length with the bed on.
Click to expand...
Did you get those extensions bent up at a metal supply place? Or make them yourself? I have a 66 PU to do that too as one of the previous owners cut the bumper off by cutting the frame a few inches back under the bed.
 
shortbus4x4 said:
Did you get those extensions bent up at a metal supply place? Or make them yourself? I have a 66 PU to do that too as one of the previous owners cut the bumper off by cutting the frame a few inches back under the bed.
Click to expand...
I had them bent them on our brake.
 
4" ID Amazon sourced T304 stainless exhaust today.

Down/flex pipe is on the driver's side, will 90 degree sideways behind the transmission and go down the passenger side. Have a bunch of v-bands to TIG in.
 
I am exhausted. Down pipe, front pipe, cross over pipe: Done

Will do the rest this coming weekend.
 

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Also, mocking up the bumper/winch plate.

I went back and forth on a 17K winch, vs a 13K winch, 13K fits, 17K doesn't.

Going to completely tuck most of the bumper. Not a fan of the huge "shelf look" they have.

We're moving it back about 6" from where it is in this pic. Will make the C3500 frame look like a narrower Ford F350 on the front.
 

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Shelf look. My old 2010 GMC Sierra:

1670851188893.png
 
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