All good info. I wasn't planning on making the tanks that easy to take out. I thought they could just fill them from their location? Isn't that how they do those big under-mounted RV ones?
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Unimog 404.111 build
- Thread starter Austin
- Start date
All good info. I wasn't planning on making the tanks that easy to take out. I thought they could just fill them from their location? Isn't that how they do those big under-mounted RV ones?
scooter2374
walk home clown
Each place is probably different on what the will or will not fill.
WaterH
Well-known member
Saw the Mog in your avatar and found this. Badass! I'll be following. There was a guy on the old site from WA state that built a couple of em. I wish he would come over here. I think one was a LS and the other was a Cummins.
edit, I want to say his name was "On my lid"
edit, I want to say his name was "On my lid"
Last edited:
This.
An RV shop/dealer would probably fill them installed in the rig. A place that sells propane, and propane accessories
would probably want them out so they can be filled by weight.
trampas
Don't Re Member
Maybe it's a California thing, but I've yet to ever see a tank / bottle filled by weight. Lbs are legit.
pennsylvaniaboy
make fullsizes great again
- Joined
- Jun 27, 2020
- Member Number
- 2192
- Messages
- 922
maybe it is just me, and im unfamiliar with mogs, but man that think looks tall, not long from portals, but how high the whole "body/cage" sit above the frame.
They do sit tall, when the bed is turned into a seating area they look like some FL swamp buggy. Tall ... but hard to tip....
DuckTape
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 20, 2020
- Member Number
- 501
- Messages
- 205
This. In order to fill at convenient places, you need to remove them. Uhaul is also my go to in KC.
-DuckTape
Sceep
🖕___ 😆___ 🖕
Kick ass. I too found my way here via your avatar. :D
Re: your roll cage plans. If you havent already do your research. A cage like that mounted in 6 or more points along the frame will not be good. The frame needs to flex near the rear trans output. You need a front cage and a rear cage to tie it into the frame as you are intending. This is well documented out there in the hardcore mog world. It's been a few years though so I may be a little rusty.
Super jealous. My buddy is thinking of selling his 404 up the street here and I wish I had the cash to get it. Its not a DOKA but I'd make due.
Re: your roll cage plans. If you havent already do your research. A cage like that mounted in 6 or more points along the frame will not be good. The frame needs to flex near the rear trans output. You need a front cage and a rear cage to tie it into the frame as you are intending. This is well documented out there in the hardcore mog world. It's been a few years though so I may be a little rusty.
Super jealous. My buddy is thinking of selling his 404 up the street here and I wish I had the cash to get it. Its not a DOKA but I'd make due.
Yea I knew that about the frame, one late night I found an old old video of a guy driving just the chassis from the factory floor and they demonstrate the flex of the drivetrain, frame etc ... now I can't find it to save my life. I do need to find those and start reading. The more I look at this cage the more I wonder what it's doing aside from looks. Don't get me wrong, I really like the looks and I'll probably make the new one very similar, just taller, in a front and rear section and push it out to the inside edges in the body ... too much wasted space.
Don't you have some 406s you're building?
Sceep
🖕___ 😆___ 🖕
My buggy is on 406's, yes.
Over the last night or two I got the LP setup all done under the hood, just need to mount the carb and place the tanks.
In a previous picture I showed the carb on the intake and how the bolt on system isn't exactly that. The place that sold it swears thats what they have been selling for years so I'm not sure who is wrong, I just want it fixed. I went to the local steel supply shop and picked up some 6061 cutoff, 1" thick and started making my own. Never done it, but it shouldn't be too difficult. A few well placed holes and trip through my buddy's mill to get the tops and bottom perfectly flat should do the trick.
That drill press was given to us when we got the house and it had a shop. It's older and 3/4 HP .... it struggled with just a feathers weight on the feed lever, but it did it's job. I flipped it to the back side to angle two smaller holes into the larger and the the whole chuck dropped out of it and chunked my piece pretty good. I couldn't kill it fast enough. So I need to get a new piece and start over this weekend.
I also goofed in my purchase of tanks. The new ones I was looking at are all around 26" tall +/-, no matter the manufacture. I found a deal on 3 used 33.5lb tanks, recertified in 2018, for the same price as a single new one. I looked at so many new ones, I assumed that the 26" height was a forklift standard. Well these are older and taller, about 3" taller .... which makes them juuust not fit down where I wanted them.
If they would have dropped down in there they would have fit under the bed piece that those bolts sticking up hold in place. Two 33LB tanks (at the 26" new tank dimensions) would fit in either orientation under the bed. So easy access to fill from between the frame and bed rail on the rear or on the side. All the advice about having them be easily removable causes an issue with that plan. I'll have to think on it.
Right now I have no 220 in the shop so without the ability to weld I'm limited on how much I can do here. It limits a lot actually ... so I'm trying to plan and knock out the small stuff, and will have to take it to a friends in a few weeks to be able to make major mods like fitting these where I want.
In a previous picture I showed the carb on the intake and how the bolt on system isn't exactly that. The place that sold it swears thats what they have been selling for years so I'm not sure who is wrong, I just want it fixed. I went to the local steel supply shop and picked up some 6061 cutoff, 1" thick and started making my own. Never done it, but it shouldn't be too difficult. A few well placed holes and trip through my buddy's mill to get the tops and bottom perfectly flat should do the trick.
That drill press was given to us when we got the house and it had a shop. It's older and 3/4 HP .... it struggled with just a feathers weight on the feed lever, but it did it's job. I flipped it to the back side to angle two smaller holes into the larger and the the whole chuck dropped out of it and chunked my piece pretty good. I couldn't kill it fast enough. So I need to get a new piece and start over this weekend.
I also goofed in my purchase of tanks. The new ones I was looking at are all around 26" tall +/-, no matter the manufacture. I found a deal on 3 used 33.5lb tanks, recertified in 2018, for the same price as a single new one. I looked at so many new ones, I assumed that the 26" height was a forklift standard. Well these are older and taller, about 3" taller .... which makes them juuust not fit down where I wanted them.
If they would have dropped down in there they would have fit under the bed piece that those bolts sticking up hold in place. Two 33LB tanks (at the 26" new tank dimensions) would fit in either orientation under the bed. So easy access to fill from between the frame and bed rail on the rear or on the side. All the advice about having them be easily removable causes an issue with that plan. I'll have to think on it.
Right now I have no 220 in the shop so without the ability to weld I'm limited on how much I can do here. It limits a lot actually ... so I'm trying to plan and knock out the small stuff, and will have to take it to a friends in a few weeks to be able to make major mods like fitting these where I want.
Lilyota
RIP 7/22/2023
Pretty sure a 220 outlet in your place is like a 10 minute ordeal
Pretty sure a 220 outlet in your place is like a 10 minute ordeal
I have to upgrade the box in the house, or run new service from the street. It's actually cheaper to run new service from the street because they pay for the wire. Only cost is digging, permit, new box in the shop and the city requires a licensed electrician on site to have the wire off to in the shop. $1,700 which I think is very reasonable considering the length .... my wife on the other hand ... would make me sleep out there if I pay for one more thing in the shop before getting the siding done on the house
So ... someday .. .
trampas
Don't Re Member
Siding party @ Austin's house. 
WaterH
Well-known member
I have to upgrade the box in the house, or run new service from the street. It's actually cheaper to run new service from the street because they pay for the wire. Only cost is digging, permit, new box in the shop and the city requires a licensed electrician on site to have the wire off to in the shop. $1,700 which I think is very reasonable considering the length .... my wife on the other hand ... would make me sleep out there if I pay for one more thing in the shop before getting the siding done on the house
One other thing to consider. In my state, If the shop has a seperate meter, there is a minimum charge every month. I have three services on my property. The house and the shop is no problem because I use enough power in both, but I have a small house on the corner of my property that has been vacant for awhile now and I have to pay $30 a month even though I don't have anything running there. I use it as a guest house, so I don't want to cut the power off.
Yup, it’s $20, but I’m moving my office out there to get away from the kids in the day so.... it’ll be a write off
2big bronco
Og irate
Another random tidbit is those tanks need to be filled standing up (to fill all the way) and installed in the correct orientation... when I first got my propane set up it took me like a week to figure out why it was acting like I was out of fuel after the first 30 minutes.... tank was upsideown.
trampas
Don't Re Member
True. The diptube for horizontal tanks is oriented differently than for vertical install tanks.
You all kinds of fucking with my plans
The tanks are supposed to run vert or horz and they have gauges to show LP remaining for both positions.
Made an redneck adapter for the carb this weekend .....
Had to give the box of discs I got from our vendor Roark Supply a good test drive on this 3/4 6061 aluminum block ....
Only went through 2.5 discs which was impressive compared to the box store discs.
A few runs with hole saws and a little bit of routing ....
Llllike a glove .....
Took it to a buddy's place to smooth out the tops and bottom for a good gasket seal ...
damn ... that hoodie is sexeh
Turned out pretty damn nice, wish I had the time to do the whole thing on a mill .....
Fits like a glove, time to finish plumbing a few lines ...
Had to give the box of discs I got from our vendor Roark Supply a good test drive on this 3/4 6061 aluminum block ....
Only went through 2.5 discs which was impressive compared to the box store discs.
A few runs with hole saws and a little bit of routing ....
Took it to a buddy's place to smooth out the tops and bottom for a good gasket seal ...
damn ... that hoodie is sexeh
Turned out pretty damn nice, wish I had the time to do the whole thing on a mill .....
Fits like a glove, time to finish plumbing a few lines ...
Once I got it all plumbed up tonight ... you know I had to test it ...
not very exciting video but I was pretty excited it fired right up. Aside from having to making the adapter .... it was way easier to do that I thought ...
not very exciting video but I was pretty excited it fired right up. Aside from having to making the adapter .... it was way easier to do that I thought ...
'84 Bronco II
El Chingón
Nice! Is the plan still to have it ready in time for KOH 2021?
Oh yea, it will be there!
'84 Bronco II
El Chingón
If you go via I40 you're welcome to stop by my place for a beer or a place to crash for the night assuming you don't get a better offer from Sceep up the road a few miles from me. I am just a little over half way between St. Louis and KOH.
Sceep
🖕___ 😆___ 🖕
I'm assuming you know the history that NM and KoH have with each other...
Best to head south through Mexico or North through CO to have a good chance at making it.
Best to head south through Mexico or North through CO to have a good chance at making it.
trampas
Don't Re Member
I've never been, what history?
some otherworldly schizz... The KoH Triangle as it were. People towing through New Mexico always make it out but the tow rigs trailers and any other sort of bad luck that triangle can present, will present. The whole "state of Irate" needs to be put on notice when traveling through Sceep country.
Sceep
🖕___ 😆___ 🖕
some otherworldly schizz... The KoH Triangle as it were. People towing through New Mexico always make it out but the tow rigs trailers and any other sort of bad luck that triangle can present, will present. The whole "state of Irate" needs to be put on notice when traveling through Sceep country.
Seriously.
Everyone breaks down here.
I just went and helped rescue Rick Mooneyham off I-40 a few weeks ago.
KOH is the worse because of the increased amount of race traffic going through. We started going to KOH just to not be here and having to rescue everyone for 2 fucking weeks
I've met more PeeBB-ers broken down on the side of the road than I have at KOH!