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Tuesday trailer question

rockota said:
You see no irony in this statement?
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What's your issue with what I built?

I spend my teenage years fucking around with clapped out boat trailers. Trailer shit is 100% garbage, or at least it doesn't age gracefully. The metal on metal bushings seize and springs or mounts break from the binding. I would 100% rather have sloppy truck shit than overly harsh trailer shit. Say nothing of how long the bushings and springs themselves last.

V30crewcab said:
its gonna be too tail heavy. axle needs to be a least 14" behind center.
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Mean to reply to this earlier but 14" wound up not passing the "does this look reasonable"l test so we split the difference. Zero sway at 80 even with the spares on the rear of the deck.
 
arse_sidewards said:
What's your issue with what I built?

I spend my teenage years fucking around with clapped out boat trailers. Trailer shit is 100% garbage, or at least it doesn't age gracefully. The metal on metal bushings seize and springs or mounts break from the binding. I would 100% rather have sloppy truck shit than overly harsh trailer shit. Say nothing of how long the bushings and springs themselves last.
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Guy that overloads uhaul trailers constantly, complains that trailer shit is garbage...

no irony there at all. :flipoff2:
 
rockota said:
Guy that overloads uhaul trailers constantly, complains that trailer shit is garbage...
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If all I knew was Uhaul I'd think trailer shit is the cat's ass. :laughing:

I've never had problems with a Uhaul but they do tons of inspections and preventative maintenance that I don't wanna do. It's the boat shit I've dealt with that makes me want to avoid trailer hardware.

I also wouldn't know if an equalizer was bound up and going to crack the mount off because I'm not the one fixing them.

V30crewcab said:
what is this being used to haul?
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Logs, cars, whatever. In that order.
 
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arse_sidewards said:
Yup
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56 × 3
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pickup springs? why bother with springs if its gonna sit on the frame when loaded.
 
TrailTamer said:
Can’t stop good if skidding.
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It’s going to have ten tons of logs on it and roll on some sort of tall tire he can get cheap. Probably with some sort of cobbled together pump and master cylinder applying pressure. Let’s wait and see before declaring locking them up to be an issue.
 
Got to working on the leafs. Is there any point to these seperator plates besides reduced contact/friction/spring rate?

Ford uses paper thin aluminum ones. Chevy uses 1/8 thick galv steel. I'm tempted to omit them because I think that having a small gap between the leaves, especially near where the bolts pinch them is going to promote cracking.
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I'm just combining a pair of 5-leaf Chevy 63s per each side and I'm gonna throw in a couple Nissan leafs while I'm at it.

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V30crewcab said:
Only if he can find a USED bolt for the spring pack!
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Funny you mention that. An EJ22 head bolt is gonna fit perfect after I turn the flange off. :laughing:

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arse_sidewards said:
Ford uses paper thin aluminum ones. Chevy uses 1/8 thick galv steel. I'm tempted to omit them because I think that having a small gap between the leaves, especially near where the bolts pinch them is going to promote cracking.
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way I see it they give clearance for rust, and airspace so the saltwater between can dry
see lots of big ford packs from the c&c trucks where the leaves are all rustjacked apart just past the u-bolts
you take them apart and it seems every single leaf will be cracked through the center hole

maybe it's unrelated happenstance, I dunno
 
[486] said:
most pressure treated stuff is gonna rust your crossmembers real bad, because it is a copper salt that they treat it with
if you can get the good black creosote treated stuff then never mind
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I'm just catching up in this thread. I've seen very few trailers with treated boards. But I just bought one. How long before stuff starts rusting away?
 
IUsedtoBendCars said:
I'm just catching up in this thread. I've seen very few trailers with treated boards. But I just bought one. How long before stuff starts rusting away?
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don't worry about it
just don't replace it like for like when it does eventually rot out
 
[486] said:
good luck finding a nut that'll fit those
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Yup. Found that out. Just said fuck it and ordered some fancy M11x1.25 nuts for some British diesel on eBay for $4


[486] said:
way I see it they give clearance for rust, and airspace so the saltwater between can dry
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That's worth considering.

Also gives room to hose out the garbage once a year. Not that I'd ever actually do that.

[486] said:
you take them apart and it seems every single leaf will be cracked through the center hole
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Come to think of it I've seen that too.
 
Lots of older automotive stuff doesn’t have a spacer, I wouldn’t worry about it that much.
 
[486] said:
way I see it they give clearance for rust, and airspace so the saltwater between can dry
see lots of big ford packs from the c&c trucks where the leaves are all rustjacked apart just past the u-bolts
you take them apart and it seems every single leaf will be cracked through the center hole

maybe it's unrelated happenstance, I dunno
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Must suck to live in the rust belt! :flipoff2:
 
Man these fuckers are heavy now. :laughing:

The Subaru head bolt wound up being a real good choice even if cost was a wash because I really had to crank it to get the spring together with no gaps and they wound up being the perfect length after accounting for my lowering block.

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What are you putting in them? Here they take yard waste with the regular trash and it’s 50 bucks a quarter for anything you put out. Not really worth it to fuck with, but in town they only do a single can and it’s 75 a quarter and they have a separate day for yard waste.
 
Sawdust.

Faster/easier/cheaper/better to bag it as it comes off the mill and then put it on the curb than to do anything else with it since pretty much anything else involves letting it pile up and then dealing with it in bulk so you have to handle it one extra time at a minimum.

My town takes it for no additional charge with the normal trash. I'm sure there's a limit but I haven't found it yet.
 
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