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Tuesday trailer question

No fuckin idea. :laughing:

I measured axle to frame, added a couple inches and built the fenders to that. Gonna try to remember to drop the axle on the frame and see what it does when I install the new leaf springs. Hoping it can clear an 11R22.5 since that's a stupid common size. I'm more worried about the flange of the channel digging into the tread at full bump. Whatever happens happens, I can throw a fuckton of bump stop at it and still have more travel than a normal trailer.
 
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Right side is done. Like done done. Nothing else is being welded onto this side. Left side will get done in a couple weeks.

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Having the crane makes this shit so much faster because I can use 1/8 instead of 3/32.
 
Flipped it on its back and did the last of the underside welding today. Fuck wearing a black jacket in the sun. :laughing:

Only things left at this point are the front rail and four "cosmetic" brackets at the corners of the fenders and two by the tail lights none of which is structural ore necessary for use so I'm declaring it "structurally done"

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still telling you you're gonna regret the 7ga decking
scaled my big trailer that has that shit, 5k fucking pounds empty for a 7x14' deckover with two 7k axles

ETA: oops, pics made it look like it wasn't welded on there yet
 
Might regret it a little. I sure don’t regret the price though. :laughing:

I’m predicting we crack 4k curb weight. It was 3600 on the trailer axle with no drive over fenders, toolboxes, 50 fewer pounds of electrode, etc.
 
Got the "new" leaf springs on. Have no idea if the spring rate will be appropriate since I've got zero experience piecing together leaf packs for anything but pickup trucks. Bolt length, spring plate dimensions, everything worked perfect

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Then everything went to shit with the brakes. Transit 350 rotor is within "easy" distance of fitting over the hub as expected but has way fucking less swept area, also as expected but is just an inappropriate downgrade when looking at it in practice.

Pictures basically stopped at that point but after a bunch of holding a 20lb caliper in the air and measuring shit with a tape measure I'm gonna make an adapter that's a glorified wheel spacer, reverse the stock sized rotor and offset the calipers off the bracket to clear the hat. :shaking:
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Can anyone think up an application that uses a really beef 2.5" leaf spring shackle and for which a longer shackle is available?

The GMT400 shackles I have are too short to have a good angle and generic drop shackles are too flimsy for me to feel comfortable about them.
 
four pieces of 2x2x3/8 angle, flatbar between for racking resistance

cut the eyes off another spring and use those for bushings scabbed to the frame, with a strap of 1/4x2 over top of them in case the spring eye itself gets cracky because they don't like being welded on
 
For $40/pair I'll throw some GMT800 shackles on it with spares in the toolbox and just live with a potential short life from the angle before I do that.

Fuck having bushings in a frame, way harder to service if/when you ever need to.

Was just hoping someone would know something a tad longer and still fairly beefy off the top of their head.
 
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Brake lines done. Wires done. Lights work. Tool boxes bolted in. Bump stops (semi trailer dock bumpers) on. All the wires are wrapped in tape to prevent chafing where they touch anything. Wound up saying fuck it on brakes because we didn't want to have custom rotors cut from plate in order to make the calipers fit.

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Some of the bougie neighborhoods in Worcester started getting these bolt down speed bumps so now they're the designated suspension cycling neighborhoods. (No, the bump isn't tall enough to get air in a Ranger, I tried).



So basically the trailer is done at this point. I'm still waiting on some tie down brackets to come in the mail, gotta toss brakes on, crane is awaiting assembly, but the trailer itself is road legal and ready for cargo at this point.
 
Id say the top caliper is probably used as an E brake and the opposing calipers do the stopping. It must have a huge bore in the master cylinder on the surge brake to supply enough fluid for a 16 piston brake setup assuming it's only got brakes on one axle.
 
arse_sidewards said:
No brakes here. Surge coupler is still sitting disassembled on my workbench.:laughing:
Click to expand...

I've gotten my ass kicked a few times with surge brake set-ups

... on flat ground, calibrated for a known weight, they work pretty damn well
... with an empty trailer / on inclines, or backing up they can really fawk the proccess up and make me look even more stoopider than i already am
 
SLOWPOKE693 said:
Id say the top caliper is probably used as an E brake and the opposing calipers do the stopping
Click to expand...

I bet that rotor would look like a belleview washer with a quickness if some heat was put into the system dynamically and then the trailer was hard stopped and then sat still with the opposing calipers pushing the pads against the rotor

... i'm not smart enough to know if the pads would be locally heating or cooling the rotor where they are in contact, but i know for damn sure the rest of the rotor that's not in contact with the pads will be heating/cooling at a vastly different rate

...insta warp~a~fication :laughing:
 
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