Tuesday trailer question

[arse_sidewards]

That looks miserable to bleed.

Should work great. Bleed the bottoms like normal, crack the top caliper at the hose fitting and you're good to go.

I'm more worried about needing to make an extra long banjo bolt for the top because the "double" bolt I bought probably isn't gonna be tall enough for the fitting plus the OEM hose end.

Also Grendel says I'm gonna cook the rotor.

 

[M92PV4U]

Should work great. Bleed the bottoms like normal, crack the top caliper at the hose fitting and you're good to go.

I'm more worried about needing to make an extra long banjo bolt for the top because the "double" bolt I bought probably isn't gonna be tall enough for the fitting plus the OEM hose end.

Also Grendel says I'm gonna cook the rotor.

Figure out how to make them progressive. One caliper activated unloaded all three activated fully loaded.

 

[45acp]

It's going to stop even harder than you think it will. Trailer with 5k on it will stop faster than just the car empty.

Once or twice.

Then you'll be able to eat cereal out of the bowls that used to be rotors.

 

[Muckin_Slusher]

Remind me why we need 3 calipers per rotor please.

 

[M92PV4U]

Remind me why we need 3 calipers per rotor please.

Because 4 won't fit.

 

[TRINDU]

Remind me why we need 3 calipers per rotor please.

To ensure it locks up and flat spots the 20 year old tire.

 

[arse_sidewards]

Remind me why we need 3 calipers per rotor please.

The first two are the normal amount of calipers for a 10k trailer. I figured might as well throw the third in for good measure because the tire is ~40" tall.

To ensure it locks up and flat spots the 20 year old tire.

Surge brakes don't do that and my tires are at least 30yo thank you very much.

 

[TrailTamer]

OP’s “tow rig” has that much stopping power to actuate the surge brake that hard?

If yes - The surge brake push enough volume for all 12 pistons before bottoming out?

 

[Gbkeith]

I, for one, can not fucking wait to see this. The commitment to doing whatever it takes to make the shit he can get cheap work and ignore all conventional and easily obtainable trailer brake technology is really amazing. Dedication.

 

[Gbkeith]

I’m also excited to see the Subaru? haul an econoline? on a single axle bumper pull trailer?

Am I understanding this plan correctly?

 

[billybob_81067]

I, for one, can not fucking wait to see this. The commitment to doing whatever it takes to make the shit he can get cheap work and ignore all conventional and easily obtainable trailer brake technology is really amazing. Dedication.

This. Like a train wreck you just can't turn away from.

 

[arse_sidewards]

I, for one, can not fucking wait to see this. The commitment to doing whatever it takes to make the shit he can get cheap work and ignore all conventional and easily obtainable trailer brake technology is really amazing. Dedication.

Has surge brake technology not reached your flyover state yet? I'm basically cramming what you'd find on a tri-axle 10-12k boat trailer onto a single axle but with slightly larger calipers.

I actually had two Dexter Kodiak calipers on the shelf but they it would have been nice to use them because they're set up with bleeders on both sides and have a stainless piston (because boat trailer shit) but between not fitting the rotor that fits my hub and being more expensive and harder to source I'm not losing any sleep over going with the Ford stuff.

I’m also excited to see the Subaru? haul an econoline? on a single axle bumper pull trailer?

Am I understanding this plan correctly?

I don't have any specific vehicles in mind to haul but building a 14ft trailer and then making the fenders too narrow to fit the biggest vehicles you can fit on a 14ft trailer is just dumb. I just knew off the top of my head that the E-van was wider than the F-series so I used it as my example.

OP’s “tow rig” has that much stopping power to actuate the surge brake that hard?

Just about every vehicle can do 1G of brake force which means a couple thousand pounds pushing on the master.

If yes - The surge brake push enough volume for all 12 pistons before bottoming out?

That's what I'm waiting to see. I can rig something up pretty easily if that happens but I'd rather just not.

Can always rig up a clutch slave to push a bigger master if need be. It's not rocket science.

 

[ExWrench]

Surge brakes don't do that

Unless anything has changed in the last 30 years, surge brakes can definitely lock up & flat spot tires.

 

[Dethmachinefab]

Just put a hand brake in the tow rig with a no loss quick connect at the hitch. Trolley brake that sucker.

 

[arse_sidewards]

Unless anything has changed in the last 30 years, surge brakes can definitely lock up & flat spot tires.

I've never had them do that and I towed a lot of empty boat trailers 10yr ago.

 

[Gbkeith]

Has surge brake technology not reached your flyover state yet? I'm basically cramming what you'd find on a tri-axle 10-12k boat trailer onto a single axle but with slightly larger calipers.

I actually had two Dexter Kodiak calipers on the shelf but they it would have been nice to use them because they're set up with bleeders on both sides and have a stainless piston (because boat trailer shit) but between not fitting the rotor that fits my hub and being more expensive and harder to source I'm not losing any sleep over going with the Ford stuff.



I don't have any specific vehicles in mind to haul but building a 14ft trailer and then making the fenders too narrow to fit the biggest vehicles you can fit on a 14ft trailer is just dumb. I just knew off the top of my head that the E-van was wider than the F-series so I used it as my example.


Just about every vehicle can do 1G of brake force which means a couple thousand pounds pushing on the master.

That's what I'm waiting to see. I can rig something up pretty easily if that happens but I'd rather just not.

Can always rig up a clutch slave to push a bigger master if need be. It's not rocket science.

Boat trailer technology is probably more of a thing in the part of the state where they have water. And boats.

See? I knew there was some sort of plan.

 

[arse_sidewards]

I'm lazy and don't want to maintain shit I don't need to, especially trailer light/wiring.

This trailer is from 1982. Where can I look to find what lighting standards would have applied when it was made.

It doesn't appear to have come from the factory with the center lights, front corner lights or fender lights that are required on modern trailers of its size.

 

[arse_sidewards]

The fuck do you call these things? I call them sponsons because that's what they'd be on a boat. Anyway they're welded on.

Now I gotta find some channel to make the fenders out of. The spacing clears the 37" R20 with inches to spare. There will be about an inch with 11R20

 

[[486]]

you're looking for "mc" channel
it's "midget" channel, thinner rolled stuff, not quite as thin as formed channel though

 

[arse_sidewards]

you're looking for "mc" channel
it's "midget" channel, thinner rolled stuff, not quite as thin as formed channel though

You sure about that? MC10 seems to start around 20lb per foot whereas C10 has a 15lb option (I think this is a common stringer size for stairs). Lord knows the only thing on CL is going to be some insane 30lb per foot option.

If I was going to NY anytime soon I'd have dethmachine fab bend me a set. I'm sure even at market rate it wouldn't be cost prohibitive because it's such a small simple part.

 

[[486]]

my chart goes right down to 6.5 lb/ft on the 10" MC

web is .152 and flanges are 1.18"

 

[CarterKraft]

I don't care if the brake is dumb I just care if it gets finished and we hear how it works.

 

[arse_sidewards]

my chart goes right down to 6.5 lb/ft on the 10" MC

web is .152 and flanges are 1.18"

This is what I have bookmarked.

http://www.coyotesteel.com/assets/img/PDFs/databook.pdf

All my local suppliers are dingy places that barely have websites let alone put stuff on them.

Regardless, unless I wanna pay well over $1/lb I'm gonna be at the mercy of the used market so I get what I get. I'm willing to drag an extra 60lb around forever if it saves me $200 now.

I don't care if the brake is dumb I just care if it gets finished and we hear how it works.

Yeah me too.

 

[[486]]

just use some of that 7ga that you got for decking
cut about halfway through the outside of the line you wanna bend and it'll fold nicely
weld up the fold from the inside if you want to get fancy, leave it half thickness if you don't wanna be fancy

 

[Dethmachinefab]

my chart goes right down to 6.5 lb/ft on the 10" MC

web is .152 and flanges are 1.18"

Same. I've never seen it in person because most folks just form channels that thin.

 

[aczlan]

I'm lazy and don't want to maintain shit I don't need to, especially trailer light/wiring.

This trailer is from 1982. Where can I look to find what lighting standards would have applied when it was made.

It doesn't appear to have come from the factory with the center lights, front corner lights or fender lights that are required on modern trailers of its size.

Reading the Washington State regs ( https://apps.leg.wa.gov/rcw/default.aspx?cite=46.37&full=true ), I would bet 1960 or 1977 as all their regs seem to have a break point there.
If you want to copy what a lot of the "bread vans" are doing, they seem to have a 2-in round reflector sticker (like: Amazon.com ) and a 3/4 inch grommet mount marker light next to it (like: Amazon.com ) for all the marker lights.
Then they use larger (2.5" or 4") grommet mount rail lights.
One thing I put on my deck over was a pair of 4" white LED backup lights and they make it MUCH nicer to backup at night, I just wish I'd put a few more a little further forward so I could see better halfway down the trailer or so.

Aaron Z

 

[arse_sidewards]

Interesting. I'll look over it again but my frame doesn't have any holes in the places you'd need them for the front corner or fender lights. Makes me think they weren't federally required for sale and/or weren't typically required in the states where Hudson was doing a lot of business in 1982.

I know MA doesn't even require brakes on trailers under 10k so lord knows what weird state specific shit might be going on. Might call the DMV's commercial division and see if I can get them to email me whatever flow chart they give to their mouth breathing employees to answer these sorts of questions.

 

[speed bump]

my chart goes right down to 6.5 lb/ft on the 10" MC

web is .152 and flanges are 1.18"

6.5 is typically called a junior channel.

I would either have the steel yard bend you what you want (ours does it for like $20 if you bought the plate from them) or find a mom and pop fab shop that will bend your material for $10-20.

 

[aczlan]

Interesting. I'll look over it again but my frame doesn't have any holes in the places you'd need them for the front corner or fender lights. Makes me think they weren't federally required for sale and/or weren't typically required in the states where Hudson was doing a lot of business in 1982.

I know MA doesn't even require brakes on trailers under 10k so lord knows what weird state specific shit might be going on. Might call the DMV's commercial division and see if I can get them to email me whatever flow chart they give to their mouth breathing employees to answer these sorts of questions.

We are talking about a total difference of what, a dozen lights?
Stop being a cheapskate, and add the lights, the original grommet mount lights on my 1999 trailer worked fine when I replaced them with brighter LED lights as part of my trailer rebuild.
Use the right plugs (ie: male/female bullet connectors and plugs on the larger LEDs, order enough to keep an extra of each in the toolbox and you won't have to argue with a DOT officer on the side of the road.
I would probably go with 4-6 yellow markers (1 at an angle or one on the front and one on the side of the front corners, then one as far out as you can on the front of the "fender") and 7 red markers (one as far out as you can go on the back of the fender, one at the back corner and 3 in the middle), then 2-4 taillights (1 or 2 on each side as far out as possible) and some kind of white reverse light.
While you are at it, run a 4 prong flat plug to the back corners so you have options like:
1. Put magnetic tow lights on your overhanging loads
2. Setup a magnet mount LED flood light with a 2 pin connector so it plugs in
3. Setup a magnet mount strobe with a 2 pin connector so you can stick a strobe at the back

It's not like you are doing a historical reproduction, build it to modern lighting standards and someone can't say they didn't see you.
You will also appreciate it backing in after dark when the side/back lights let you see how close you are to stuff (or I do with my 22+2 deck over)

Aaron Z

 

[arse_sidewards]

Got the fenders on a month ago.

Had to cut clearance in the toolbox supports.

Got the ramp rod tacked up today. Made a trick bracket to go over a weld on grab hook. Hooks are spaced every 10" or so so there's no way a 12-14" wide ramp can not hit at least one of them. Not sure if I'm gonna cut the rod off flush of weld a bracket to the light. Send Cut Send makes this shit super easy.

CAD file for bracket attached.