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Tuesday trailer question

Yea.

In other news a MBTA train derailed this morning. Investigators say large amounts of ties were stolen, causing the derailment. Traffic cameras caught a subaru and overloaded uhaul trailer leaving the scene. :flipoff2:
They're actually replacing rail and tie less than a mile from my house. Frankly I could probably just drive the loader at 1am and not see anybody who'd care.


I've always wanted to steal their "MBTA electric" manhole covers and make lapping plates out of them.
 
Yea.

In other news a MBTA train derailed this morning. Investigators say large amounts of ties were stolen, causing the derailment. Traffic cameras caught a subaru and overloaded uhaul trailer leaving the scene. :flipoff2:
How the heck does one or two guys yank installed RR ties?
 
How the heck does one or two guys yank installed RR ties?
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Am I getting screwed at ~$20/foot or $0.46/lb?

I feel like that's pretty fair since the used steel place in Exeter RI advertises $0.40/b


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Am I getting screwed at ~$20/foot or $0.46/lb?

I feel like that's pretty fair since the used steel place in Exeter RI advertises $0.40/b


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That's cheap for what appears to be new or very good condition used.

I pay .45 from my local scrap place, and it's a crapshoot if I'll find something I need.
 
I figure 2600lb honest curb weight isn't that bad for a trailer you can do some real stupid shit without breaking. Yeah I know it detracts from cargo capacity somewhat but it also means I'm not gonna outgrow it with the first tow rig upgrade.

100ft of C4x5.4# -> 540lb

40ft of C6x8.2# -> 330lb

14ft x 6ft of 3/16 tread-plate -> 730lb

wheel wells, gussets, misc brackets -> 50lb

4" sch40 x 7.5 pipe axle tube -> 80lb

Spindles, hubs, wheels and tires -> 300lb

Spare tires and mounts -> 200lb

Leaf springs -> 100lb

7018 to put it all together -> 20lb

Coupler, stake pockets -> 50lb

winch, toolbox, straps other misc shit you wind up adding over time -> 200lb
 
What's your axle rating?


I have a 7k steel deck car hauler and it weighs 2380.7000-2380. If you ignore tongue weight, my wheeling rigs probably put it over weight. Take tongue weight in to consideration and I'm probably right at capacity. With 10k worth of axles it'd make a whole lot more sense.


I'm currently in the market for a 14-15k. :laughing:
 
What's your axle rating?


I have a 7k steel deck car hauler and it weighs 2380.7000-2380. If you ignore tongue weight, my wheeling rigs probably put it over weight. Take tongue weight in to consideration and I'm probably right at capacity. With 10k worth of axles it'd make a whole lot more sense.


I'm currently in the market for a 14-15k. :laughing:
Same boat here. With winch and 2 spares I’m right at 2500 empty on a 7k trailer. Steel deck open center. Which sucks btw.
I need to off this one and upgrade.
 
Same boat here. With winch and 2 spares I’m right at 2500 empty on a 7k trailer. Steel deck open center. Which sucks btw.
I need to off this one and upgrade.

Yeah, mistakes were made last year that led me to realize I need a heavier trailer. This was a calculated risk, but it turns out that I'm not very good at math.

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Second ticket is truck with trailer detached and sitting on all on the drive axle scale. :emb:
 
What's your axle rating?
Enough. :laughing:


I think it was rated at 6k in the truck but it's larger than mobile home 7.5k stuff. I can pull dimensions later and see how it compares to 10/12k trailer stuff but who are we kidding here...
 
$680 later I have ~35ft of 5ft wide 3/16 steel plate. What kinda crossmember spacing you think I should go for?

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I can pull dimensions later and see how it compares to 10/12k trailer stuff but who are we kidding here...
2" inner, 1-7/16 outer and 3" spacing, so more than a 7.5k axle and a hair less than a 10k axle. Which really means it's good to 20k if I'm ok with 1/4 the service life. :laughing:
 
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Bumping this mfer back up.

I think I found my cross-members way cheaper than new C4x5.4 would cost me. Sure they're not as strong as the channel would be but they're so much cheaper the strength per dollar is off the charts.:laughing:

What spacing should I go with? 12"? 14"? 9"?





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they gonna rust out real good

doing the steel deck? it'll avoid needing to hold wood down to it
put in a bunch of effort to seal the ends with weld and don't poke any holes in them for screws securing wiring or whatever

Wide end of the tube goes to the frame, narrow to the deck, point loading is worse on the framerails than the deck.

ETA: whoops made the mistake of scrolling up
rofl
do whatever you're gonna do, you'll get "a result"
 
they gonna rust out real good

doing the steel deck? it'll avoid needing to hold wood down to it
put in a bunch of effort to seal the ends with weld and don't poke any holes in them for screws securing wiring or whatever

Wide end of the tube goes to the frame, narrow to the deck, point loading is worse on the framerails than the deck.

ETA: whoops made the mistake of scrolling up
rofl
do whatever you're gonna do, you'll get "a result"
Whenever I use tubing I don't ever depend on the welds being water tight. I just make damn sure I have a way for it to drain... Otherwise you'll end up with frozen swollen tubing every damn time...
 
I would probably do 16 inch spacing for cross members and you can probably get away with 24. It's just a 6 ft wide trailer and stitch welding in 3/16 steel will give you a lot of strength.
 
So before I burn it in a trailer axle does anyone have anything important to say about location?

15ft deck, 6ft tongue. 60/40 rule says I put 9ft of deck in front of the axle and 6ft after the axle.
 
So before I burn it in a trailer axle does anyone have anything important to say about location?

15ft deck, 6ft tongue. 60/40 rule says I put 9ft of deck in front of the axle and 6ft after the axle.
I usually make my trailers with a subframe that the trailer suspension attaches to, then u-bolt the frames together, or use bits of angle iron and drill/bolt the frames together. Makes it easy to adjust/change axle location.

Also makes rebuild work easy.
 
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