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ugh, that guy again?
gotta cut the ends off and metal detector them real good lolThat's a good idea, toss some RR ties on the sawmill and use for decking.
gotta cut the ends off and metal detector them real good lolThat's a good idea, toss some RR ties on the sawmill and use for decking.
That would cost arse_sidewards way too much money lolAll my lowbed buds swear by Apitong for their decks.
Yeah lots o steel in thosegotta cut the ends off and metal detector them real good lol
Yea.Are RR ties hardwood?
They're actually replacing rail and tie less than a mile from my house. Frankly I could probably just drive the loader at 1am and not see anybody who'd care.Yea.
In other news a MBTA train derailed this morning. Investigators say large amounts of ties were stolen, causing the derailment. Traffic cameras caught a subaru and overloaded uhaul trailer leaving the scene.
How the heck does one or two guys yank installed RR ties?Yea.
In other news a MBTA train derailed this morning. Investigators say large amounts of ties were stolen, causing the derailment. Traffic cameras caught a subaru and overloaded uhaul trailer leaving the scene.
/threadFull wood deck and then skin it with your oil tanks. It'll last that way
Leverage and/or methHow the heck does one or two guys yank installed RR ties?
How the heck does one or two guys yank installed RR ties?
reasonable price depending on condition
7ga is extremely excessive thickness for trailer deck though
especially since it is spending most of its time behind a subaru or uhaul van
Am I getting screwed at ~$20/foot or $0.46/lb?
I feel like that's pretty fair since the used steel place in Exeter RI advertises $0.40/b
Same boat here. With winch and 2 spares I’m right at 2500 empty on a 7k trailer. Steel deck open center. Which sucks btw.What's your axle rating?
I have a 7k steel deck car hauler and it weighs 2380.7000-2380. If you ignore tongue weight, my wheeling rigs probably put it over weight. Take tongue weight in to consideration and I'm probably right at capacity. With 10k worth of axles it'd make a whole lot more sense.
I'm currently in the market for a 14-15k.
Same boat here. With winch and 2 spares I’m right at 2500 empty on a 7k trailer. Steel deck open center. Which sucks btw.
I need to off this one and upgrade.
Enough.What's your axle rating?
2" inner, 1-7/16 outer and 3" spacing, so more than a 7.5k axle and a hair less than a 10k axle. Which really means it's good to 20k if I'm ok with 1/4 the service life.I can pull dimensions later and see how it compares to 10/12k trailer stuff but who are we kidding here...
Thank you for your non-answer.8" X-heavy channel at 4" spacing
w24x250 beams for frame rails
Whenever I use tubing I don't ever depend on the welds being water tight. I just make damn sure I have a way for it to drain... Otherwise you'll end up with frozen swollen tubing every damn time...they gonna rust out real good
doing the steel deck? it'll avoid needing to hold wood down to it
put in a bunch of effort to seal the ends with weld and don't poke any holes in them for screws securing wiring or whatever
Wide end of the tube goes to the frame, narrow to the deck, point loading is worse on the framerails than the deck.
ETA: whoops made the mistake of scrolling up
rofl
do whatever you're gonna do, you'll get "a result"
I usually make my trailers with a subframe that the trailer suspension attaches to, then u-bolt the frames together, or use bits of angle iron and drill/bolt the frames together. Makes it easy to adjust/change axle location.So before I burn it in a trailer axle does anyone have anything important to say about location?
15ft deck, 6ft tongue. 60/40 rule says I put 9ft of deck in front of the axle and 6ft after the axle.