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Trans or steering cooler tech for 2020

YotaAtieToo said:
Ya, I'm not sure if the cap would be good or bad. They hold 15 psi iirc and I don't know what a trans or steering return is.
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i have a vague memory of the cores being sized a certain way for water/antifreeze vs oils from a conversation i had with CBR many moons ago.

pressurized system is good, actually its worth watching all his videos.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NTj8I9FvdQ4
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Not hard to upgrade from a stock toyota "cooler" where the just run the hard line a little long and do a 180* :laughing:​​​​​​

On a side note. If one needed a BIG cooler. My samurai has a stock replacement all aluminum radiator. Pretty sure they are around $200 and have about a 1 1/4" in and outlet. :laughing:

One could easily tig on some AN fittings and seal off the radiator cap if necessary.

Which brings up another idea, what about dirt bike radiators for a trans or power steering cooler?

Quad?
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I parted out a Z400 quad, and I kept the radiator for this very purpose. It had a fan and a temp sensor built in. Id love to know if anyone is running one. I think I ended up selling it as I couldnt find it on the shelf but Id be very intrigued by that repurpose.
 
100 psi return line "spike" in a 13 psi radiator, the fire will be spectacular.
 
Good point on the rad only being built for 15 psi too.

A normal steering system shouldn't have much pressure on the return side though since the res is vented.
 
K5-Einari said:
What would cause 100psi "spike" in return line? It is just an open line to reservoir.
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Shock load, smack a rock at speed. Undersized return lines. Pressure relief valve integral to pump dumps (you smacked a rock again or you are still trying to turn the steering wheel at full lock). Internal blockage from o-ring or other internal piece can be catastrophic as it may subject your return lines and coolers to full system pressure.
 
crisbee1 said:
Shock load, smack a rock at speed.
Undersized return lines.
Pressure relief valve integral to pump dumps (you smacked a rock again)
Or you are still trying to turn the steering wheel at full lock.
Internal blockage from o-ring
Or other internal piece can be catastrophic as it may subject your return lines and coolers to full system pressure.
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/
Interesting; makes sense.
 
I replaced the stock.chevy 2500 gas burner trans cooler with a derale stacked plate cooler with fan. With 5000lbs worth of truck camper in the back it would easily jump to 220. After swapping in this cooler it never got above 175 without even running the fan pulling Blue Ridge mnts in July.


Edit: this one. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-13870



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YotaAtieToo said:
Good point on the rad only being built for 15 psi too.

A normal steering system shouldn't have much pressure on the return side though since the res is vented.
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Watch the video mobil1syn posted in post #31. It's well done and very eye opening. The take away is that a pressure cap on the reservoir is very beneficial.

The Howe filter/reservoir I have came with a 16lb cap.
 
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Interested in this. I'm running running the biggest tube and fin cooler i could find basically in open air on my tacoma and it still over heats wheeling. I havent measured it in a while but 15 degree drop from one end to the other is stuck in my head. Running a ford box, no hydro assist yet on 37s. Its pretty close to the exhaust manifold, may try heat shielding it next since the fender well is all cut out. Super cool flex shot, best one I had to see the cooler tucked behind the grill there. I also have a shit load of hose in the system.
 
crisbee1 said:
Segway to p/s fluid, I run a concoction of Amsoil synthetic tractor oil and kubota sudt2 synthetic laced with mobil shc 626 gear and bearing oil, most bestest:grinpimp:
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I'm running valvoline full synth ATF in my Tacoma still on IFS but have been curious about tractor fluid. Not sure how it would play with the rack.


I'm buying my buddys truggy with a 22r yota pump and TG ram. Need to replace the PS pump and ram so again I'm thinking about running tractor fluid. Currently running clear PS fluid from the gallon jugs vatozone sells.
 
Fwiw, in my samurai I ran royal purple power steering fluid. Never had an issue.

Put literally the same pump, ran, orbital and cooler in my 4runner, but used cheap hydraulic fluid. It had some issues getting warm. Not terrible, but enough that I had thought about changing something.

Could have been the extra weight, or maybe cooler location. But I think the fluid made the difference.
 
Wulf said:
I'm running valvoline full synth ATF in my Tacoma still on IFS but have been curious about tractor fluid. Not sure how it would play with the rack.


I'm buying my buddys truggy with a 22r yota pump and TG ram. Need to replace the PS pump and ram so again I'm thinking about running tractor fluid. Currently running clear PS fluid from the gallon jugs vatozone sells.
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Th clear stuff is mineral oil.:shakingheadnoemoji:
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Fwiw, in my samurai I ran royal purple power steering fluid. Never had an issue.

Put literally the same pump, ran, orbital and cooler in my 4runner, but used cheap hydraulic fluid. It had some issues getting warm. Not terrible, but enough that I had thought about changing something.

Could have been the extra weight, or maybe cooler location. But I think the fluid made the difference.
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I tried they Royal Purple cause that is what PSC reccomended at the time, It seems to work well, I couldn't get past the part that it looks dirty out of the bottle, same with their gear oil. Got in on a group by of Amsoil synthetic Tractor "oil" and had a jug of Kubota Sudt2 left over from Tractor service, mixed it together with Mobil 626 Synthetic Helicopter Transmission fluid. Using it in a bunch of stuff from the final drives in quads and sxs's to cheby tow pig p/s and a Sami t-case.
Around here your fluids can be 104* before you start the motor.:grinpimp:
 
I was researching this about a month ago and the old threads all seemed to think the plate coolers had too much back pressure for full hydro (Not sure if that is correct). I run a heat sync on my other rig and it seems fine, but other than the extra fluid volume, I'm not convinced it does much.
I ended up getting the biggest tube and fin cooler that i could fit in front of my radiator.

https://derale.com/product-footer/fl...8/13315-detail

I havn't run it yet, hopefully I did head down the wrong path.
 
Some good stuff here.

I live in a hot-as-fuck climate. I need to figure out a trans cooler circuit. My trans builder was adamant about NOT using the radiator cooler and only an air-to-trans fluid type.
Plan to mount in front of radiator without any auxiliary fan. 6000# truck, 460, C6 non-lockup converter, 40s, A/C, clutch type engine cooling fan.
I would like to keep pan temp below 200 F. Hot/hot scenario temp diff (ETD) would be 200-110 = 90 F. Temp sensor in pan.

HYDRODYNAMIC said:
Trans Cooling:
The 4L80 should flow 6GPM (best info I could find) max around 8GPM. I assume the 6L80 would be somewhat close.
The trans cooler is a Thermal Transfer MA32 single pass which is around 15.75" x 16.34" x 2.625" core. It should remove 50,000BTU/Hr. at 100ETD which is equivalent to 20HP. The trans cooler fan is a single 300W 15" VA91-ABL326-65A rated at 1357 CFM at 150Pa pressure.
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http://www.thermaltransfer.com/inclu...A%20Series.pdfhttp://www.thermaltransfer.com/inclu...A%20Series.pdfhttp://www.thermaltransfer.com/inclu...A%20Series.pdf

Not sure what range of power (BTU/hr or whatever units) the trans needs removed. The stock/oem use liquid coolers so hard to judge sizing. Other than the 'biggest that will physically fit', not sure where to start. I can do the math, but theoretical sizing doesn't always work in the real world. If you have experience/recommendation please share, :flipoff2:
 
rattle_snake said:
Some good stuff here.

I live in a hot-as-fuck climate. I need to figure out a trans cooler circuit. My trans builder was adamant about NOT using the radiator cooler and only an air-to-trans fluid type.
Plan to mount in front of radiator without any auxiliary fan. 6000# truck, 460, C6 non-lockup converter, 40s, A/C, clutch type engine cooling fan.
I would like to keep pan temp below 200 F. Hot/hot scenario temp diff (ETD) would be 200-110 = 90 F. Temp sensor in pan.



http://www.thermaltransfer.com/inclu...A%20Series.pdfhttp://www.thermaltransfer.com/inclu...A%20Series.pdfhttp://www.thermaltransfer.com/inclu...A%20Series.pdf

Not sure what range of power (BTU/hr or whatever units) the trans needs removed. The stock/oem use liquid coolers so hard to judge sizing. Other than the 'biggest that will physically fit', not sure where to start. I can do the math, but theoretical sizing doesn't always work in the real world. If you have experience/recommendation please share, :flipoff2:
Click to expand...

From what I have read and seen, around a 12"x24" (288 square inch) x 2.5" thick with dual 12" fans or 16"x16" (256 square inch) x 2.5" thick with single high output 16" fan will get you into continuous use Ultra4 horsepower range.
 
HYDRODYNAMIC said:
If I remember correctly, PSC advises against running synthetic fluid as the seals might not be compatible.
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Gotta link?


Edit
I looked for ya, PSC is pimping swepco and claiming it is not compatible with anything.(with no explanation of not compatible). I am not familiar with swepco,
PSC actually wants you to flush out all your old shit and switch using a flushing kit they are selling.

https://www.pscmotorsports.com/psc-flk729.html
"SWEPCO Lubricants are compatible with all mineral oils and most PAO lubricants, obtain the full benefits of SWEPCO’s High Performance additive chemistries by not leaving behind contaminates or deposits left behind from old, dirty lubricants.



Flushing the system with SWEPCO 729 Flushing Oil is the best way to remove all old lubricants and loose contaminants that might affect the service life or performance of SWEPCO Lubricants and PSC power steering components.


Because most synthetics are NOT compatible with SWEPCO Lubricants, flushing is highly recommended when switching from a FULL synthetic product to a SWEPCO Lubricant."

EDIT2
Further looking cause I am open to new and better, shows swepco to be "paraffinic base stock".
https://www.swepcolube.com/products/...ghydraulic-oil

Not a fan of wax fluids.
 
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What about oil coolers? I forgot that the 6.2 has an oil cooler. Is it really necessary?

Do I need to find a triple cooler :laughing:
 
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