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Trail welder

posford said:
No, you're not my type Le Gays. :flipoff2:

Still no yellow skull? :shaking: Fawk outta here with your shit
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looks like this

1693596464751.png
 
posford said:
I got an ignorant deal on a ready welder a few years back and I've gotten pretty decent use out of it. If you're at the point of needing a trail weld, pulling a battery isn't a big deal
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I bought the other one from you back when - beyond that a bunch of my friends have them as well. We've used them successfully with the battery in the vehicle + a boost pack so we didn't have to pull anything. We even did it with one of those lithium ion boost packs once.

Also have a couple friends with the suitcase welder that hobart (?) sold a while ago that have a self contained battery - those are handy, but slightly bulky - but it is stupid easy to use.
 
Not cheap but this is interesting

Renegade VOLT™ ES 200i

ESAB is committed to providing the highest level of customer service & support to help maximize your investment. Explore our wealth of product support resources.
esab.com esab.com
 
He should have had a 100 page "build thread" about the day to day clusterfuck of owning his business.

Submarine marketing. :flipoff2:
 
YotaAtieToo said:
:lmao:

What did le-gay do to get banned?
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Winchested said:
Probably because he doesn't want to play by the rules and advertising his wares without the proper account.
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He was dropping some tech early on in this thread but he was starting to get a bit spammy. Didn't bother me too much. I think there is a fine line in manufacturers coming in to defend or answer questions about their project and when they need to get a yellow skull. He was definitely near the line.
 
When the Carb Cheater guy came in to defend his product, he ponied up for a Yellow Skull, it ain't hard
 
Bebop said:
$3.5k+

Ouch
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Absolutely

But instead of linking car batteries I wonder if a diy version of that with your own flex volts or Milfuckies and a $100 harbor freight flux would be doable
 
fl0w3n said:
Absolutely

But instead of linking car batteries I wonder if a diy version of that with your own flex volts or Milfuckies and a $100 harbor freight flux would be doable
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For the amount of time you're going to use a welder on the trail is 5 extra minutes to tie two batteries together going to turn you day into one that much longer?

With the batteries ya ain't got to waste 1/2 hour to an hout+ idling/revving the rig (premier/ alt setup)

Don't need thousands invested like esab or Fronius.

Ill just continue being a cheap **** :flipoff2:
 
Winchested said:
For the amount of time you're going to use a welder on the trail is 5 extra minutes to tie two batteries together going to turn you day into one that much longer?

With the batteries ya ain't got to waste 1/2 hour to an hout+ idling/revving the rig (premier/ alt setup)

Don't need thousands invested like esab or Fronius.

Ill just continue being a cheap **** :flipoff2:
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Pretty much this. I pull out my ready welder less than once a year. Messing with batteries is not the end of the world. Also, having the engine running when welding underneath is a pita and dangerous.
 
white-rhino said:
Pretty much this. I pull out my ready welder less than once a year. Messing with batteries is not the end of the world. Also, having the engine running when welding underneath is a pita and dangerous.
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Same opinion i've got. Especially when most of the time it's friends that need the welder, so I make them get out their batteries, lol.
 
Someone raised the question about side post batteries on a recent trip. If you are wheeling with someone and you need their battery but it only has sideposts what do you do? I was thinking about getting these and throwing them in with the welder:
71Gt0ISTIcL._AC_SL1500_.jpg



For $4 it's probably worth a try. Are almost all sideposts 3/8" thread or is it a shitshow dpending on group size?
 
I mean, if the battery only has side-posts then there's got to be a bolt in there to hold the wires right? Just screw that bolt back in out of the truck and clamp onto that.
 
GLTHFJ60 said:
I mean, if the battery only has side-posts then there's got to be a bolt in there to hold the wires right? Just screw that bolt back in out of the truck and clamp onto that.
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Even better I just realized that the cables that came with my bun bolt onto the little quick release battery clamps so I can probably just bolt the cables to the battery directly. :homer:
Capture.JPG
 
I'd almost be nervous about getting the threads hot in the side post and having them melt out and leave your buddy stuck. I mean it shouldn't, but would suck if it did.
 
Winchested said:
For the amount of time you're going to use a welder on the trail is 5 extra minutes to tie two batteries together going to turn you day into one that much longer?

With the batteries ya ain't got to waste 1/2 hour to an hout+ idling/revving the rig (premier/ alt setup)

Don't need thousands invested like esab or Fronius.

Ill just continue being a cheap **** :flipoff2:
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Don't get me wrong, I've used/seen ready welders used more than a couple times in the woods, and I agree that pulling batteries isn't a big deal for as often as its needed (although like I said above, disconnecting your own battery and using a jump pack feels like a cheat code for that), but I also wheel with two guys who have premier setups, and it absolutely faster to setup than a ready welder. In something with Dual batteries next to each other, if you have the extension cables, and its not buried in your rig, I bet setup time on a Ready Welder (best case) is about the same as an underhood mounted Premier.

Source: We used one on my drag link like 2 weeks ago. Set the idle speed, flip some switches, stab in leads and go, as long as you spent the time upfront to figure out what it wants for idle speed. (the one we used recently was on a 4 cylinder TJ, and it needed to be outside of the "specified" range to be happy, which the guy already knew)

I actually had my ready welder out and was ready to start hooking it up when I discovered the switch on my 18V grinder was fucked, and the other guy carried a 120V grinder to use with the Premier (which worked way better than I expected). So at that point it made more sense to use his welder. I still think the ready welder is more versatile because it can be carried to the other end of the trail if need be, and sometimes the wire feed is just easier to use than the stick welder. Also more useful if you need it on yourself and can't run the motor for some reason. I also think the flux core wire is going to be easier to carry/keep dry in the gun, in the case compared to a box of 6011 floating around. on the other hand, the other guy I know with a Premier carries specialty rods like aluminum and high nickel, but cost is no barrier for him.
 
Using the Premier for 110V is awesome and has it's place. I have used Premier and Ready welders and they both have served the purpose.
BUT...
Here is why I "prefer" the portable ready welder.
Johnson Valley Outer Limits - I tore an upper frame end bung out of a link. Lots of jacking around to get it in place (in the dark) with 2 guys under the rig with heads and hands close to the exhaust. Would have been tough to not get burned with a running engine. (plus loud)
Montrose (one of the hard trails - don't remember which) Guy broke a front driveshaft and couldn't get to the transfer case end to pull it off. My welder was 3 rigs back. No way we could have gotten a rig within welding distance.
Harlan KY. Upper axle end link bracket broke. Trying to weld that would have your hands very close to the radiator fan - not safe.

I could type more examples but you get the gist. "IF" the onboard welder is close enough and you aren't hindered by a running engine, they work awesome.

One other point for this old guy, I haven't stick welded in years so the spool gun is nice. :)
 
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