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Trail welder

Nice, gotta love the packout stuff :smokin:

So you basically can just hook it up to your rig, up the rpm's and weld?
Can weld without your rig even running with it. And I have yet to burn up any batteries nor have I been able to reach a duty cycle with it. In either configuration be it duel batteries or a single battery with the step up converter.
 
Can weld without your rig even running with it. And I have yet to burn up any batteries nor have I been able to reach a duty cycle with it. In either configuration be it duel batteries or a single battery with the step up converter.

How long can you weld before a single battery is dead? I'd imagine running the rig would greatly extend run times?

Not to give away your secrets, but is it just as simple as something like this?


If so, I'd like to add one to my regular stick setup, vs needing 2 batteries.
 
How long can you weld before a single battery is dead? I'd imagine running the rig would greatly extend run times?

Not to give away your secrets, but is it just as simple as something like this?
Well as far as how long I’ve ran with a single battery before it died I don’t have that answer since I have yet to kill one. I’m still in the process of finding that answer but as of now I have 40 minutes with welding on and off at about 3-5 minutes or welding and 1-2 minutes of rest between welds and battery only lost about .3 volts when I was done.
But now as far as with 2 batteries goes I’ve welded on multiple occasions for well over an hour at the same rate of the single battery times of on and off and after I was done both batteries only lost about .1-.2 volts a piece


If so, I'd like to add one to my regular stick setup, vs needing 2 batteries.
I would recommend that you go with the next size up the 50a converter if it was me. But from my own personal opinion and input I still perfer using both batteries over the inverter only because I think it welds slightly better. As the duel batteries supply a true unfiltered 24volts as where with the converter filters the power it supplies due to it being a converter technically so I can see the slight difference between the two
 
Well as far as how long I’ve ran with a single battery before it died I don’t have that answer since I have yet to kill one. I’m still in the process of finding that answer but as of now I have 40 minutes with welding on and off at about 3-5 minutes or welding and 1-2 minutes of rest between welds and battery only lost about .3 volts when I was done.
But now as far as with 2 batteries goes I’ve welded on multiple occasions for well over an hour at the same rate of the single battery times of on and off and after I was done both batteries only lost about .1-.2 volts a piece

Good info, thank you.

I mentioned earlier that I have a small sxs agm I'm not using. I wonder how it would work with the converter as a stand alone unit? Obviously I wouldn't expect a ton of run time, but depending on the situation, it might be nice to have the ability to lay a few beads without messing with the vehicles battery.
I would recommend that you go with the next size up the 50a converter if it was me. But from my own personal opinion and input I still perfer using both batteries over the inverter only because I think it welds slightly better. As the duel batteries supply a true unfiltered 24volts as where with the converter filters the power it supplies due to it being a converter technically so I can see the slight difference between the two

Gotcha, I saw 40a on your site, so that's what I searched.

I like the inverter for the fact that you can be running the vehicle while you're welding to insure you don't kill the battery. We do quite a few single rig trips, so bringing an extra battery and then pulling you main battery out to make make a repair could be risky.
 
How long can you weld before a single battery is dead? I'd imagine running the rig would greatly extend run times?

Not to give away your secrets, but is it just as simple as something like this?


If so, I'd like to add one to my regular stick setup, vs needing 2 batteries.
But yes your correct that with the vehicle running it is basically endless power but you can’t weld on the vehicle supplying the power source as you would technically be back feeding 24volts into the system and well I’m sure you can see how that wouldn’t be a good thing to do ya know
 
Good info, thank you.

I mentioned earlier that I have a small sxs agm I'm not using. I wonder how it would work with the converter as a stand alone unit? Obviously I wouldn't expect a ton of run time, but depending on the situation, it might be nice to have the ability to lay a few beads without messing with the vehicles battery.


Gotcha, I saw 40a on your site, so that's what I searched.

I like the inverter for the fact that you can be running the vehicle while you're welding to insure you don't kill the battery. We do quite a few single rig trips, so bringing an extra battery and then pulling you main battery out to make make a repair could be risky.
That is my buddy’s site who is a big support and a huge help to me with this entire endeavor of mine
 
Good info, thank you.

I mentioned earlier that I have a small sxs agm I'm not using. I wonder how it would work with the converter as a stand alone unit? Obviously I wouldn't expect a ton of run time, but depending on the situation, it might be nice to have the ability to lay a few beads without messing with the vehicles battery.


Gotcha, I saw 40a on your site, so that's what I searched.

I like the inverter for the fact that you can be running the vehicle while you're welding to insure you don't kill the battery. We do quite a few single rig trips, so bringing an extra battery and then pulling you main battery out to make make a repair could be risky.
With the way I set mine up there is no need to remove the batteries really only need to disconnect them from the vehicle because I make the cables long enough to reach between rigs or between the batteries so it is a lot quicker and easier to connect then other ones out there
 
Dude, this pos is autoshade?! :confused:

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Had no idea they made a non electronic autoshade lense. It's 3/11 and works! :grinpimp:
 
LMAO is there a reasonably cheap way to tell if these sub $30 chinesium things actually filter out what needs to be filtered? I remember AVE doing some tests and I seem to remember even clear glasses helped some. I just don't know if getting back on the trail is worth it when you have to have someone else drive your blind ass out:lmao:

I damn near blinded myself doing the old flux core blink and tack so I guess it's worth a shot. I picked up the leather hood we will see if it turns me into :homer: with yellow dye.
 
I just ordered up one of those leather hood deals, that way I don't have to take my auto darkening helmet. :smokin:
 
LMAO is there a reasonably cheap way to tell if these sub $30 chinesium things actually filter out what needs to be filtered? I remember AVE doing some tests and I seem to remember even clear glasses helped some. I just don't know if getting back on the trail is worth it when you have to have someone else drive your blind ass out:lmao:

I damn near blinded myself doing the old flux core blink and tack so I guess it's worth a shot. I picked up the leather hood we will see if it turns me into :homer: with yellow dye.

Good question. I noticed my clear safety glasses say 100% uv blockers. Might not be a bad idea to throw some safety glasses in there also.

It said shade 11 and seemed to be about that by the 3 beads I did.

For a once or twice a year deal, I think it's perfect.
 
Good question. I noticed my clear safety glasses say 100% uv blockers. Might not be a bad idea to throw some safety glasses in there also.

It said shade 11 and seemed to be about that by the 3 beads I did.

For a once or twice a year deal, I think it's perfect.
Honestly when I'm using a hood that doesn't seem dark enough I'll throw a pair of my polarized safety sun glasses under the hood. Helps out a ton
 
Used a welder made out of an old GM/ford alternator. Not sure.

Guy had a box in his jeep with a modified alternator, vbelt, leads, and stick rods.

He had holes drilled in the jeep fender and attached the alternator to the fender. then open the hood and attach the belt to an extra double pulley on the engine.

Start jeep and set amps with throttle stick from nature. Worked mint.

Edit, he said the alternators didn't last long, under heavy use, but junkyards and lifetime warrantys are magical
 
Karnage welder all day. After seeing one in person I’m sold!
 
It's probably been mentioned already, but ready welder over here. Has been a trusty part of my wheeler's kit for 7 or 8 years now. 0.030 Flux wire lives in it iirc.

Never needed more than two batteries, although it'll run from 12v-36v.

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Threw the ends on everything earlier, took like 20-30 minutes and came out pretty good. The extra crossover lead, the minion helmit, a pair of gloves, the modified jumper cables and a pair of safety glasses all easily fit in the case the jumper cables came in.

As I'm typing this, I realized I forgot to put the rod in there :homer::lmao:

Edit: a 1lb little deal of rod fits in the case also :laughing:
 
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Alright, I got my Chinese Leather hood in today and took a selfie. Only complaint is that It could use a nose relief:lmao: Maybe I will flip the sensor over the shade and see if it fits better.

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Here it is next to the #10 fixed shade I had in Torch goggles for size comparison:

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And my whole setup with gloves and the bun welder in a 40mm ammo can:

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