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Trail welder

I've been looking at the $175 HF spool gun and converting/adding battery clamps to it. I saw a post on OFN that said you can run the spool motor on a couple of AA batteries. But I have 15 other projects I need to finish first.

China spool guns are cheaper on eBay.
No idea about controlling speed etc on it though.
 
I got something like this a few years ago, but thankfully havent had to use it yet.

 
I got something like this a few years ago, but thankfully havent had to use it yet.


Thats basically what I'm "building" if I didn't have most of the shit laying around. It would probably be cheaper to just buy that kit. Well, if it wasn't sold out.


What rod is everyone using? I picked up farm rod (6011) but maybe it's not the best? I suck at stick :homer:
 
That fronius thing would be junk on a trail rig.

We use em at work and they have to be plugged in to 120V when not in use. If it happens to die completely you have to send the unit back for repair. It doesn't have a low battery cut off that saves it self.

It will shut off when welding and say Low which gives you enough time to go plug it back into 120V before it kills itself.

We've had about 4 or 5 units go back already for killing themselves.

And I bet we've got 20+ of them onsite. (steel mill)

And you only get about 10 1/8" rods of 7018 before the low cut off (running around 115-120A.)

Problem with spool guns is, they don't fit in a lot of spots.
 
I'm confused are you building a kit to use two batteries or something that runs off the alternator? One page it's "I want to build a budget premier", now on page 2 it's a kit to wire up two batteries and stick weld.

I cobbled together a kit to do the two batteries and stick rod setup and then bought the bun. For rods I carried 6011 and I think 7018, I'll have to check when I get home.
 
I'm confused are you building a kit to use two batteries or something that runs off the alternator? One page it's "I want to build a budget premier", now on page 2 it's a kit to wire up two batteries and stick weld.

I cobbled together a kit to do the two batteries and stick rod setup and then bought the bun. For rods I carried 6011 and I think 7018, I'll have to check when I get home.

Possibly both

I have all the pieces to do a 2 battery/stick, so may as well throw it together.

I'd also like to see if I can do the weldernator on the 81 since it's the most likely to break apart :laughing:
 
I’ve been wanting to build the alternator welder but always got hung up on what model ford had the correct one to use
 
I was witness to one of these alternator welders couple weeks ago. Looked like gm Cs144 stlye alternator. He said he burns through em quite a bit. They get way too hot it seemed and didn't have enough cooling with just the standard alt fan.

All he was doing was welding a track bar bracket to a diff.

He ran it as a second alternator on an LS with a longer belt on the pass side. Stock was truck stlye on the drive.

Seems pretty finicky and there was nothing to increase RPM other than holding the accelerator due to drive by wire.
 
I'm now wondering if I can stick weld with the alternator on my dump truck. 12 volts, but I'm not sure how many amps. There's three batteries in parallel on it Pretty sure I'd have to run them in series to get enough heat for some things that I want to weld.
 
The alternators are modified to put out AC power If I remember right, meaning an alternator powered welder does not actually draw any juice from the batteries.
 
The alternators are modified to put out AC power If I remember right, meaning an alternator powered welder does not actually draw any juice from the batteries.

Everything I read said DC. Some guys saying if you get up around 100v that you can run drills and grinders. Supposedly a standard electric motor doesn't care too much.
 
I was witness to one of these alternator welders couple weeks ago. Looked like gm Cs144 stlye alternator. He said he burns through em quite a bit. They get way too hot it seemed and didn't have enough cooling with just the standard alt fan.
Is there a water cooled CS44? GM liked to water cool alts in some applications.
 
A few thoughts on this.
I have a portable Ready Welder that I bought used for about half price. It has been used on the trail several times. I've found that the portability is really nice.
A premier or DIY is awesome when you can get two rigs close enough together or you only plan to weld on your own rig. But I've been in two different spots where we could not get a rig close enough to weld the broken vehicle. A couple other times would have been awkward.
1) At the top of Outer Limits where a rig broke at the bottle neck.
2) Right in the middle of Die Trying in Montrose.

Yes, it's a big PITA to unhook 2 batteries and lug them up the trail to the broken rig. But it gives you more versatility in single file situations. Plus if you have to weld on your own rig with an alternator driven welder, you must have your engine running to fire it up. Loud exhaust, heat, fan running can make a repair more difficult.

As far as eye protection, I've used sun glasses and dark tint torch goggles. They both work but suck.
I found that I could buy a $50 auto dimming helmet from TSC and the module pops out of the hood and fits perfectly in the torch goggles. I always carry spare batteries because they are always dead when you need them. LOL The only down side to the goggles is if you don't wear a gator and hat, your cheeks, nose and forehead get a nasty sunburn - QUICKLY.

You mentioned extension cables. Buy a cheap pair of jumper cables. I found the clamps to be cumbersome to pack tightly so I cut the clamps off and installed battery post terminals on each end. And in a pinch, vise grips will work too.

I've been carrying the Ready welder for about 10-12 years. It's only been used a half dozen times but it sure has been nice when needed.
 
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I got motivated about a diy trail flux gun setup a while back with two angles:

1 - I got a low end Miller spool gun years ago in a giveaway with the prior model 211 welder that's been sitting in the box since. Come up with a control/drive speed solution and either a couple small 12v batteries like the Karnage setup or a 12v boost convertor to run the tanning lamp side

2 - Get a cheap chinese mig spool drive and gun off ebay or a harbor freight level flux welder, bust it apart and THEN add 12v batteries or a boost convertor like step 1.

But I suck and haven't done either.
 
So I guess I lied and the battery leads I have won't really work. They're huge, possibly off some equipment 000?, short, and the clamps are toast.

HF to the rescue! :laughing:

2g 20' jumper cables for $40, 2 pairs of these.

https://www.amazon.com/Military-Ter...cphy=9029659&hvtargid=pla-1201639752132&psc=1

I'm thinking I'll use the 6' piece of wire that's currently on my electrode clamp for the crossover piece and use the jumper cables for the stinger and ground. They even came in a case that I should be able to use.

Anyone think a UTV agm would work for a 2nd battery? I have one that's just not really being used and it would be nice to pack with the welder since it's light. Just not sure if being roughly half the size of the vehicle battery would kill it quick?
 
I don't have a lot of good pics, but I made my own.
It runs off 2 12V wheel chair batteries, an RC car motor and ESC to push the wire.
No voltage control, only wire speed.
I get around 2' -2.5' of weld before the voltage is too low.
All fits inside an ammo can.
The big boxes you see are just the battery chargers for the 12V batteries.
In the pic I did not weld the side back on the ammo can yet.

1663774606987.png
 
I got a nice compact, auto-darkening hood from Karnage when I bought my welder. I tried it and the welder out last weekend and was happy with both.
 
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So you're going to bring a second battery with you as part of your trail welder?
Well no not entirely true that you need two batteries in order to use mine. I have a way to use only one battery. I know this is a post about DIY builds and not about buying one. But that’s how my first one came about for me. Now it supports me being a single dad I must be doin something right with it. #FuckASpoolGun #thatdamfool79 #lagacewelders
 
Well no not entirely true that you need two batteries in order to use mine. I have a way to use only one battery. I know this is a post about DIY builds and not about buying one. But that’s how my first one came about for me. Now it supports me being a single dad I must be doin something right with it. #FuckASpoolGun #thatdamfool79 #lagacewelders
Cool, I had not heard of your welder.

Lagace Welders
 
Well no not entirely true that you need two batteries in order to use mine. I have a way to use only one battery. I know this is a post about DIY builds and not about buying one. But that’s how my first one came about for me. Now it supports me being a single dad I must be doin something right with it. #FuckASpoolGun #thatdamfool79 #lagacewelders

The thread is about trail welders in general, all tech is welcome.

$550 with the 12v to 24v converter is pretty reasonable. I'd like to see more about it.
 
I got a nice compact, auto-darkening hood from Karnage when I bought my welder. I tried it and the welder out last weekend and was happy with both.
Looks like you can buy just the hood, I may pick one up, not a bad price at 69.99!

How much smaller is the hood than standard hood?
 
I’ve been wanting to build the alternator welder but always got hung up on what model ford had the correct one to use

I'd start by looking at 1989 - 1990 ford crown victoria, mercury grand marquis 100amp externally regulated alternator. Optional on fleet cars, and part of the heated windshield option. Size of the alternator is about the same as a large case 3G.

In car operation when the electric defroster is activated, a cutout isolates the charging system from the alternator, full fields the alternator and feeds the AC voltage to the embeded windshield grid. If the system detects battery voltage falls below whatever voltage it turns off and the car goes back to charging the battery.
 
As far as eye protection Ive always kept a #9 lens in the glovebox of whatever shitbox im wheeling. Someone always has a beer box to cut a rectangle out of and tape the lens in. It always gets laughs but works great and takes up no room.

#9 lens because you are always trail welding with to little power so the arc isnt as bright and it gives you the best chance to clearly see what you are doing and get a decent half assed weld.
 
As far as eye protection Ive always kept a #9 lens in the glovebox of whatever shitbox im wheeling. Someone always has a beer box to cut a rectangle out of and tape the lens in. It always gets laughs but works great and takes up no room.

#9 lens because you are always trail welding with to little power so the arc isnt as bright and it gives you the best chance to clearly see what you are doing and get a decent half assed weld.

I can totally picture you with a color light box on your head:flipoff2::lmao:

Not a horrible idea for how small it is. Although the one posted earlier is pretty sweet too.
 
The thread is about trail welders in general, all tech is welcome.

$550 with the 12v to 24v converter is pretty reasonable. I'd like to see more about it.
This one I just finished with the inverter for my buddy at k suspension
 

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I picked up one of those leather Amazon hoods. Haven't burned anything, but it gets dark and light, and doesn't take up much space.

I just ordered it today, the wife said it looked like bender and a minion had an ugly baby :laughing:

I figured that it would wrap up nicely, bonus is you should be able to wrap it up good enough to protect the lense also.
 
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