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The TRACTOR thread

Steel putty on some sheet metal and maybe some sheet metal screws for a security blanket. Heat it with a weed burner until you cook the oil out of the pan and go for it. In my experience a good repair will get you at least a few months until you can do it right.
 
arse_sidewards said:
Or just bolt it up with 1-2 bolts and get it cherry red with the weed burner and hammer it to fit then re-drill the holes that invariably moved in that process.

Gonna want the weed burner down there anyway to get the old oil cleaned off the casting so the sealant seals good.
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Good idea
 
speed bump said:
Steel putty on some sheet metal and maybe some sheet metal screws for a security blanket. Heat it with a weed burner until you cook the oil out of the pan and go for it. In my experience a good repair will get you at least a few months until you can do it right.
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This repair will have to last as long as I own the machine.
 
billybob_81067 said:
That stuff or windshield adhesive urethane. That shit is nasty! Dunno how oil resistant it is, but it'll stick about anything to anything else and get everywhere on your hands and take a week to wear off. :laughing:
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I stuck a blob of it in the bottom of my mixed drain oil container to see what would happen. I threw it out after about 5yr. ATF and motor oil didn't do shit to it at room temp.

Gbkeith said:
Is there a reason not to weld it that I missed?
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Nasty and oily cast iron + poor access + vertical and overhead + someone who may or may not be a little rusty with the stick welder = poor results.
 
Gbkeith said:
Is there a reason not to weld it that I missed?
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Easier to bolt a patch plate in. No doubt I could weld it but I don't like the looks of that cast. Going to try to get it patched up today.

A couple bolts holding it in place, heat it up and form it to the pan. Pull it off, clean everything up, black rtv and put it back together.

Almost bought a D6 dozer this past weekend for some of the dirt work I have. Glad I didn't with this current headache.
 
How complex is this pan? Is it just a flat flange with a bowl or is there more too it?

I'd be inclined to get the pan off (even if you have to do one of the current temp repair ideas to get it started and moved), blueprint the flange and cut it out of ~3/8" plate and then origami a bowl together out of 1/4" or so plate. As long as the current pan's flange is intact so you can transfer the bolt pattern, you could do this with a drill and a $100 chinese plasma cutter.
 
bgaidan said:
How complex is this pan? Is it just a flat flange with a bowl or is there more too it?

I'd be inclined to get the pan off (even if you have to do one of the current temp repair ideas to get it started and moved), blueprint the flange and cut it out of ~3/8" plate and then origami a bowl together out of 1/4" or so plate. As long as the current pan's flange is intact so you can transfer the bolt pattern, you could do this with a drill and a $100 chinese plasma cutter.
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That’s what I would suggest, hardest part is going to be keeping the flange flat when welding.
 
Not easy to remove the pan. I'll buy another dozer before I remove the pan, that's how difficult it is. Loader frame has to come off, which is around 6000lb, and the motor needs to be unbolted and picked up in the front at a minimum.
 
back woods said:
Not easy to remove the pan. I'll buy another dozer before I remove the pan, that's how difficult it is. Loader frame has to come off, which is around 6000lb, and the motor needs to be unbolted and picked up in the front at a minimum.
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Can a new pan get built to go in in 2 pieces? Old ones fucked anyway, bust it out.
 
Patch plate fits decent. Found another big crack further up the side of the pan.


Super disappointing, this dozer operates flawlessly, steering, brakes, clutch, motor, all great. Now here is sits.
 

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Have you tried the nickel rod, or just the typical mild steel rod "attempts" at welding cast in the past?

There's some on ebay that's reasonably priced old stock
the NI-55 stuff actually runs really nicely on DCEP, it is worlds different than steel rods on cast.
 
If I don't sell it before I fix it I'm headed in a decent direction imo. Someone is interested in it but the pans are not available so he would be in the same boat as I am now.

Spent some time on the patch panel today. It's tough crawling in and out from under the dozer over and over. I got the panel to lay flat on about 90% of the pan. The radius in the front has some tiny gaps but no more than approx. 1/8". The fitment will need a bit more refining. How it sits I can drill my holes to mount it to the pan fairly easy. Loctite makes a pretty aggressive looking steel putty that I am thinking about using.



Degrease everything, burn off what remains with a torch. Stuff some towels through the inspection plates to limit residual dripping of oil. Smear putty onto patch plate, put in place. Reach through inspection cover and smear on inside edges as well as outside gaps on pan. Terminate cracks with drill, rough up surface and clean out with torch, cover cracks with putty. Let cure, come back with black rtv and cover all edges of plate and areas in question on the pan.
 

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Ordered the fancy loctite putty and started drilling holes in the plate. Plan is to get it running and solid then sell it. Looking at something bigger like a D6C that has more weight behind it. The D4 does a pretty good job with stumps but would save a lot of time with something bigger. I have had some concerns with how it will hold up ripping out big stumps. Mainly clutch, input and track adjusters. When it gets tipped up onto the front idlers when popping a stump there is a lot of pressure on things.
 
Dethmachinefab said:
I'd look for an ex instead. Much better at stumping, at least with the hardwood stuff that I'm familiar with. Prices seem to be pretty equal between the two.
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Need something that can push a lot of dirt.
The track loader can move dirt but is tough to grade with. Most of the stumps I have are white pine that were cut almost 10yr ago. They come out of the ground fairly easy but need to be pushed some distance to get to a big dirt berm. Also need to do a lot of grading around where I'm building a house. Planning on building a few golf holes too, a couple par 3s and a par 4. They need to have nice terrain flow.
 
All patched up. This loctite putty is some gnarly shit, used $100 worth on it. It filled all of the gaps no problem. Bolted in place good, decided to use thru bolts instead of tapping it. Once it was pretty well set I coated everything with 2 tubes of ultra black rtv. Got the batteries charging up right now. Tomorrow I will fill the oil, turn it over with the compression released and then cross my fingers. If all goes well it will be getting a massive skid plate.
 

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back woods said:
All patched up. This loctite putty is some gnarly shit, used $100 worth on it. It filled all of the gaps no problem. Bolted in place good, decided to use thru bolts instead of tapping it. Once it was pretty well set I coated everything with 2 tubes of ultra black rtv. Got the batteries charging up right now. Tomorrow I will fill the oil, turn it over with the compression released and then cross my fingers. If all goes well it will be getting a massive skid plate.
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Are you going to build a shield for it to avoid a repeat?
 
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