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The TRACTOR thread

reptillikus said:
I'm assuming this one is cam and plunger too.
Hadn't thought of diesel/atf mix but that's not a bad idea. I'll crack it open Monday and see what I find, and then probably mix some fuel up for the next trip over there.
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I highly recommend it. Or Marvel if you don’t mind the cost, is a bit better. Either one marvel or atf is a good lubricant diesel fuel additive that is also a rust breaker.
 
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grumpy356 said:
I have ridden MANY of post hole diggers trying to get it to dig. (Climbed on it while spinning to get my weight to help force it down) One day I am going to weld a long bar for leverage out past the auger to grab / hang on to to force down pressure. (my vision is a 6' bar and a set of handlebars to grab)

It's dangerous, but at this point I don't even think about it. Just don't let the spinning part touch .... anything ... clothes.. arms .. legs.
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I've been curious if a hydraulic top-link could help provide some downforce on the auger bit.
 
A bar welded to the top of the auger isn't standard equipment?
The ancient farmer one I've always used has a bar welded straight to it. Jump up, grab that fucker and hang till she digs.
 
JR4X said:
I highly recommend it. Or Marvel if you don’t mind the cost, is a better. Either one marvel or atf is a good lubricant diesel fuel additive that is also a rust breaker.
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Another vote for Marvel.

I am an old school "add ATF " guy and Marvel mystery oil has done some pretty impressive cleaning where atf didn't.
 
reptillikus said:
I'm assuming this one is cam and plunger too.
Hadn't thought of diesel/atf mix but that's not a bad idea. I'll crack it open Monday and see what I find, and then probably mix some fuel up for the next trip over there.
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Don't waste brand new ATF on it, change the fluid on your truck and dump that couple gallons in your fuel.
 
Duc said:
Thanks
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well it wasn't "tomorrow" but hey close enough
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it gonna go on the forks
auger bit adapter might end up with a u-joint in it but I dunno, got a biggun laying round with yokes that might work good

U-joint seem like a good idea?
 
[486] said:
well it wasn't "tomorrow" but hey close enough
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it gonna go on the forks
auger bit adapter might end up with a u-joint in it but I dunno, got a biggun laying round with yokes that might work good

U-joint seem like a good idea?
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I had thought about using a axle center to drive the auger but changed my mind when I remembered how much it sucks to remove one from a pick-in-place alone. Normal junkyard buddy just had a kid so he's out for abit.

My forks on the tractor are a little to small for my taste to be driving a auger off of them. The area has a abundance of large granite rocks.

Mount for my pallet fork setup on the tractor minus the forks. Latches into the area the forks sit in. Built a adjustable clamp for the bottom to clear the bottom lip. 12inches wide by 21inches
Auger mount.jpg


Mount on the pallet fork attachment.
Auger Mount 3.jpg


Rear locking mechanism. Required to get around the lip at bottom of attachment.
Auger mount 2.jpg

I will probably make a build thread in the shop section once more things arrive.
 
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Punched a fist sized hole in the oil pan of my D4 dozer today. When I bought it there was no belly pan. So now I am at a cross road. It is A LOT of work to remove the oil pan and may not beable to find another one. Luckily I caught it quick and shut it down, don't think any damage was done to the motor. The pan is cast of some sort and I think my only option is to make a patch and weld it into place. Currently the dozer is sitting in a field. Any opinions on the matter? Pretty unfortunate, the dozer runs and works great until now.
 
back woods said:
Punched a fist sized hole in the oil pan of my D4 dozer today. When I bought it there was no belly pan. So now I am at a cross road. It is A LOT of work to remove the oil pan and may not beable to find another one. Luckily I caught it quick and shut it down, don't think any damage was done to the motor. The pan is cast of some sort and I think my only option is to make a patch and weld it into place. Currently the dozer is sitting in a field. Any opinions on the matter? Pretty unfortunate, the dozer runs and works great until now.
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What engine is in it?
 
back woods said:
D315
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Yikes, looked it up and that looks uber specific to 55 and 56. Since you can’t start it it’s going to be a pain in the dick to fix it. I’d be planning on trying to mend the pan you have unless you can get lucky parts shopping.

It’s just an oil container. Here, I would have our radiator place throw it in the hot tank and clean the shit out of it. The same place can mig weld cast aluminum pretty nicely. Probably take a week to get it back buts what I would do if it were mine.

Problem is getting it out and back in right where it sits. Do you “know a guy” with big equipment that can move something dead that weighs 18,800 pounds?
 
Anyway to clean it enough for a ghetto patch job so you can move it?

Pop rivets or tech screws and some JB weld?

Just to get it moved.
 
JR4X said:
Yikes, looked it up and that looks uber specific to 55 and 56. Since you can’t start it it’s going to be a pain in the dick to fix it. I’d be planning on trying to mend the pan you have unless you can get lucky parts shopping.

It’s just an oil container. Here, I would have our radiator place throw it in the hot tank and clean the shit out of it. The same place can mig weld cast aluminum pretty nicely. Probably take a week to get it back buts what I would do if it were mine.

Problem is getting it out and back in right where it sits. Do you “know a guy” with big equipment that can move something dead that weighs 18,800 pounds?
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So, the other problem is you can't remove the oil pan without un bolting the loader frame. It is a major job to remove the oil pan that takes heavy equipment.

Here is the hole, it has a couple cracks going up the side but is mostly flat. It is also broken right up to the oil drain bung.
 

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grumpy356 said:
Anyway to clean it enough for a ghetto patch job so you can move it?

Pop rivets or tech screws and some JB weld?

Just to get it moved.
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Thinking some cast block repair epoxy or something. Not sure what's ou there. If I can get it sealed, and use a couple tubes of black rtv to keep it from leaking. I'll just throw a belly pan plate on it and run it for what it's worth.
 
Ouch homie. And that looks like cast iron not cast aluminum, which I should have guessed from a couple cues like it’s weight and the fact it was built in 1955. You knocked the whole bottom out of it. Do you have a big piece or is it all little shards now?
 
can you jam enough plastic bags under there with plywood and whatever else to make a basin to hold a few gallons of oil against the pickup?
 
JR4X said:
Ouch homie. And that looks like cast iron not cast aluminum, which I should have guessed from a couple cues like it’s weight and the fact it was built in 1955. You knocked the whole bottom out of it. Do you have a big piece or is it all little shards now?
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Found one big piece, the rest are missing. I have some ideas for a repair.
 
My thought is to make a patch panel from steel that fits the contours of the pan. Drill and terminate the couple cracks it has and seal them. Attach some steel straps to patch that bolt to hole locations higher on the block. This will hold the patch panel in place. Find the nastiest, toughest epoxy I can find and seal the patch panel to the pan and bolt the straps to the block. Then top coat everything in black rtv.
 
Having jb welded an oil pan or two in the rust belt, it always fails later because the oil seeps under and the patch falls off, but it will hold long enough to get it moved for service if you can get it reasonably clean with the brake clean. No idea on what to do for a temperament fix there. You dun fucked it up good
 
I bet 'right stuff' silicone would work real good for that sorta deal

maybe cut the sump outta a different pan of almost the right size, so it's all formed in the approximate right shape already

Just say no to having a drain plug, use the vacuum oil sucker
then you don't need a hole in your skidplate for the drain plug either
 
[486] said:
I bet 'right stuff' silicone would work real good for that sorta deal

maybe cut the sump outta a different pan of almost the right size, so it's all formed in the approximate right shape already

Just say no to having a drain plug, use the vacuum oil sucker
then you don't need a hole in your skidplate for the drain plug either
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Keep in mind it's a 20,000lb+ dozer that gets used pretty hard so whatever the fix is it has to be solid. I have been using it to uproot white pine stumps on an average of 12-20". I have about 3.5 acres of stumps left to go and have to move a few 100yd of soil yet.

Luckily it came to a stop at a location that it's fairly easy to get to everything.
 

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Think this will work. Next I need to cut the relief for the oil drain bolt then make bolted tab and get the radius just right. Drill and tap (or thru bolt) the pan, mock it up, drop a flash light in the inspection cover to check for gaps. Might need to make a gasket for it, slather it in RTV bolt it in. Fill with oil, let it get hot, check for leaks and then get a piece of 3/8" or 1/2" to make a skid plate.
 

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Or just bolt it up with 1-2 bolts and get it cherry red with the weed burner and hammer it to fit then re-drill the holes that invariably moved in that process.

Gonna want the weed burner down there anyway to get the old oil cleaned off the casting so the sealant seals good.
 
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