The TRACTOR thread

[Duc]

Has anyone built a hydraulic auger for a compact tractor? So far I been unable to find the planetary reduction gear box used on alot of the units.

Or how does the china units run for the 1-2 ton mini excavators?

For sale in town for 600 or 750 for a miva version

 

[arse_sidewards]

Has anyone built a hydraulic auger for a compact tractor? So far I been unable to find the planetary reduction gear box used on alot of the units.

I would be very surprised if gear reduction is actually cheaper than a super huge displacement hydraulic motor for someone not building them in volume.

 

[[486]]

Tomorrow I'll take some pictures of the skidsteer one I've been working on

 

[[486]]

I would be very surprised if gear reduction is actually cheaper than a super huge displacement hydraulic motor for someone not building them in volume.

thrust load
though that might be handled sufficiently by a wheel motor (which would also have a very high displacement and be clearanced very tight for low speed operation)

dunno brotato

 

[bgaidan]

Has anyone built a hydraulic auger for a compact tractor? So far I been unable to find the planetary reduction gear box used on alot of the units.

Or how does the china units run for the 1-2 ton mini excavators?

For sale in town for 600 or 750 for a miva version

I have some of these. Haven't actually tried one out yet, but really need to. Reviews I've read online say they work out as long as you're not in super rocky material. Augers themselves are garbage and tend to snap at the socket to the motor, so plan on buying a better auger to graft on to it.

 

[arse_sidewards]

thrust load

I figure unless you get a planetary designed for an auger you are going to wind up having to toss a bearing in front of it anyway. The natural place to put it would be on whatever shit you use to adapt from whatever the wheel motor has to the hex or round that the auger needs.

 

[Duc]

I would be very surprised if gear reduction is actually cheaper than a super huge displacement hydraulic motor for someone not building them in volume.

That was one direction I was looking at. I almost thought about getting a transmission from the junkyard to adjust RPM.

Tomorrow I'll take some pictures of the skidsteer one I've been working on

Thanks

I have some of these. Haven't actually tried one out yet, but really need to. Reviews I've read online say they work out as long as you're not in super rocky material. Augers themselves are garbage and tend to snap at the socket to the motor, so plan on buying a better auger to graft on to it.

Well there goes my fun with them. I have alot of granite in my area that I may hit or not.


Just sucks the cheap motors max around 1500 psi instead of the 2200 psi the kubota runs on.
Edit: guess I could adjust the pressure down at the valve going to the auger.

 

[Duc]

Put a few things together that I might buy in the next few weeks.

Few Calcs from Parker Tech sheet

And some calculation Magic if I didnt screw up excel

7.7 hp should work or stall on a granite stone.

 

[[486]]

that's a lot of money, look around for used wheel motors off something like a mower or manlift or some such

 

[KB6Chris]

Does the tractor have pto? Lots of PTO powered post hole diggers around for not much money

 

[billybob_81067]

Does the tractor have pto? Lots of PTO powered post hole diggers around for not much money

This, Or adapt a hydraulic motor to the PTO powered gearbox. Dunno how well it'll work, but I bought one someone did that way for like $50 at an auction. Planning on trying it out someday.

 

[BearChow]

There is no downward pressure except weight on the 3-point. So it really depends on what you are digging into. If you have front hydraulics look into a FEL mounted hydraulic build or purchased auger. Easier to align and has downward force. I've found PTO augers suck in anything but sand.

 

[SHARPMACHINE]

Pretty lame question today... So my John Deere 5200 has a seat that is still comfortable but the cover is cracked. The cracks allow it to absorb rain if it gets stuck outside and I was thinking of putting a cover on it. With all the prime adds I found these two to consider. Wondered if any of you have bought similar or if you have recommendations on better options.

A couple I was considering....

Thanks

Amazon.com

www.amazon.com

Amazon.com

www.amazon.com

 

[grumpy356]

Tie rod ends... boots.

So I had to re-pack the steering cylinder. To remove the cylinder I had to fight the stupid fucking tie rod ends. Doing so I fucked up the boots with my pickle-fork.

They are non greasable.

For a tractor, and a non- greasable tie rod end, is it worth fuckig with, or just stick the old ones back on???
(I'm really tired of spending money on this, so I am inclined to slap it back together)

The tractor is suffering from outside storage way more than hours, but here we are.
(this is a random internet pic, but it's REALLY fuckin close)

 

[jhama78]

Pretty lame question today... So my John Deere 5200 has a seat that is still comfortable but the cover is cracked. The cracks allow it to absorb rain if it gets stuck outside and I was thinking of putting a cover on it. With all the prime adds I found these two to consider. Wondered if any of you have bought similar or if you have recommendations on better options.

A couple I was considering....

Thanks

I recently put this one on the busted ass seat on the JD 790 I drug out of a barn, seems to be holding up well, its almost carhartt like material so I think it will hold up pretty well.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0C55MP1FX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[[486]]

Pretty lame question today... So my John Deere 5200 has a seat that is still comfortable but the cover is cracked. The cracks allow it to absorb rain if it gets stuck outside and I was thinking of putting a cover on it. With all the prime adds I found these two to consider. Wondered if any of you have bought similar or if you have recommendations on better options.

don't give jeff money, put a lawn mower seat base under it, both for extra springs and so you can flop it upside down when it is parked so that it stays dry

 

[[486]]

They are non greasable.

For a tractor, and a non- greasable tie rod end, is it worth fuckig with, or just stick the old ones back on???
(I'm really tired of spending money on this, so I am inclined to slap it back together)

The tractor is suffering from outside storage way more than hours, but here we are.
(this is a random internet pic, but it's REALLY fuckin close)

you can drill a grease zerk into them, though they probably won't take grease until they've worn enough clearance to let the grease flow through
wrap them up in an old innertube to keep most of the water out of the joint

 

[1oddtech]

Tie rod ends... boots.

So I had to re-pack the steering cylinder. To remove the cylinder I had to fight the stupid fucking tie rod ends. Doing so I fucked up the boots with my pickle-fork.

They are non greasable.

For a tractor, and a non- greasable tie rod end, is it worth fuckig with, or just stick the old ones back on???
(I'm really tired of spending money on this, so I am inclined to slap it back together)

The tractor is suffering from outside storage way more than hours, but here we are.
(this is a random internet pic, but it's REALLY fuckin close)

First off throw the pickle fork away, a pry bar applying upward force to the tie rod and a hammer hitting the knuckle where the tie rod goes thru works 100% of the time and won't damage the boots, pry bar is optional. And no don't add a grease fitting to the joint, you will do more damage to the joint than if you had just left it alone.

 

[Duc]

Order the hydraulic motor from surpluscenter since I was unable to find a motor in town or on ebay for a good price.

Not sure about the side or thrust load the motor can take so I decided a thrust bearing setup was need in the design. I was unable to locate a commercial off the shelf solution such as a mounted taper bearing that didnt break the bank.

Option 1 - taper bearings off ebay with a custom shaft. Would involve also building a sleeve to hold them.

Option 2 - Use a old unit bearing from my 2003 2500HD that I laying around. Probably going with this option.

Surplus Center
Hydraulic motor with coupler, 2x fitting - $412 shipped

Ebay - May be cheaper if I can find a vendor with the discs
QTY 1 - 6" Steel Disc .5in - -$22
QTY 2 - 7" Steel Disc .5in - $36
QTY 1 - 8" Steel Disc 1in - $36
QTY 1 - 8" Steel Disc .5in - $36

QTY 1 - 4.5" tube x 6" - $11
QTY 1 - 6" x .134 wall - $60

Junkyard
33 spline shaft - $25
Tentative = $638

 

[arse_sidewards]

Unit bearing all the way.

 

[WTF?]

Pretty lame question today... So my John Deere 5200 has a seat that is still comfortable but the cover is cracked. The cracks allow it to absorb rain if it gets stuck outside and I was thinking of putting a cover on it. With all the prime adds I found these two to consider. Wondered if any of you have bought similar or if you have recommendations on better options.

A couple I was considering....

Thanks

Amazon.com

www.amazon.com

Amazon.com

www.amazon.com

I bought something like the second link one for a budget backhoe I use once or twice a year and it’s remarkably decent and water repellent for what it cost.

 

[reptillikus]

Mission fail. We're 0/2 here.

We removed the fuel lines to inspect before installing the new fuel pump. All lines were clear except for the one between the tank and the pump, so we cleaned that and installed the new fuel pump.

Bled the line + pump.
Bled the next line + first fuel filter
Bled next line + second fuel filter
Bled next line + injection pump

Got fuel to the feed and return so we threw a battery in it, and I disconnected all 4 injector lines. Cranked the engine over and nothing. Can't get even one drop of fuel out of any of the ports.

So now the injection pump is on my work bench

Hopefully it's something dumb like varnish in the pump or something, because id rather not rebuild the pump.

 

[Tiha]

Hopefully it's something dumb like varnish in the pump or something, because id rather not rebuild the pump.

Hope so too. Chances are good though it is just dirty.

had a 6.9 diesel do the same thing. The inlet on the back of the injection pump would not allow fuel in. Took it apart, cleaned it up. Ran great.

 

[Dethmachinefab]

Didja make sure the shut off lever was in run position? Gov and linkage inside moving?

I know fuckall about a Lucas pump.

 

[grumpy356]

There is no downward pressure except weight on the 3-point. So it really depends on what you are digging into. If you have front hydraulics look into a FEL mounted hydraulic build or purchased auger. Easier to align and has downward force. I've found PTO augers suck in anything but sand.

I have ridden MANY of post hole diggers trying to get it to dig. (Climbed on it while spinning to get my weight to help force it down) One day I am going to weld a long bar for leverage out past the auger to grab / hang on to to force down pressure. (my vision is a 6' bar and a set of handlebars to grab)

It's dangerous, but at this point I don't even think about it. Just don't let the spinning part touch .... anything ... clothes.. arms .. legs.

 

[4runner]

best place for a used or lower priced front end loader? have a nice 1981 JD 2040 with two hydraulic ports behind the seat. saw a 2050 with two ports with hoses to a control valve that ran bucket up and down as well as dump and tilt up. i know its not a big tractor, but i, just doing driveway maintenance and some light shredding along the fence line were rebuilding. being able to haul some gravel to the roadway would be nice.

is 2bigbronco the tractor dealer?

 

[reptillikus]

Hope so too. Chances are good though it is just dirty.

had a 6.9 diesel do the same thing. The inlet on the back of the injection pump would not allow fuel in. Took it apart, cleaned it up. Ran great.

I'm hoping so. The fuel pump and filters were fucking terrible looking, but all the fuel lines were clear except for the first one, so I dunno. I'm working this weekend so I'll mess with the pump Monday morning.

Didja make sure the shut off lever was in run position? Gov and linkage inside moving?

I know fuckall about a Lucas pump.

Yeah both the throttle and the shutoff move freely, or at least appear to from the outside of the pump. I don't know much about injection pumps, but they seem fairly simple.

We were running out of time (we work together but he's 2nd shift and I'm 3rd) so we basically just stopped and yanked the pump so I could come home and grab a shower. I gotta go to sleep shortly, and he's got to go in to work.

 

[JR4X]

So now the injection pump is on my work bench


Hopefully it's something dumb like varnish in the pump or something, because id rather not rebuild the pump.

The injection pump on my little Furd is just a simple cam and plunger type. The ex FIL had let air get in the IP and let it sit for years. It just got rust pits on the plungers and bores. So when the cam pushed the plunger, the plunger stuck and wouldn’t return to draw in fuel. All I did was take it apart. Cleaned up the plungers and bores with super fine emry cloth. Reassembled without using any new parts. Put ATF in it. Primed it with a quart of ATF in 5 gallons of diesel. Once I got the injectors primed it fired right up.

For a while if I let it sit too long one injection plunger would stick intermittently but I just kept adding ATF and running any excuse I could. Now that plunger hasn’t stuck in a while

 

[Duc]

Unit bearing all the way.

I might switch to the taper bearings but we will see. I finally found some thick tubing on ebay that will work.

I have ridden MANY of post hole diggers trying to get it to dig. (Climbed on it while spinning to get my weight to help force it down) One day I am going to weld a long bar for leverage out past the auger to grab / hang on to to force down pressure. (my vision is a 6' bar and a set of handlebars to grab)

It's dangerous, but at this point I don't even think about it. Just don't let the spinning part touch .... anything ... clothes.. arms .. legs.

Before embarking on my stupid phase, I had thought about modifying a 3 point post hole digger to have a 6-8ft tube attached on top. The tube would have a pinned sliding weight that I could adjust downforce by moving closer or farther away. The setup could use a string or chain to allow adjustment from the seat. Simple and cheap to build.

 

[reptillikus]

The injection pump on my little Furd is just a simple cam and plunger type. The ex FIL had let air get in the IP and let it sit for years. It just got rust pits on the plungers and bores. So when the cam pushed the plunger, the plunger stuck and wouldn’t return to draw in fuel. All I did was take it apart. Cleaned up the plungers and bores with super fine empty cloth. Reassembled without using any new parts. Put ATF in it. Primed it with a quart of ATF in 5 gallons of diesel. Once I got the injectors primed it fired right up.

For a while if I let it sit too long one injection plunger would stick intermittently but I just kept adding ATF and running any excuse I could. Now that plunger hasn’t stuck in a while

I'm assuming this one is cam and plunger too.
Hadn't thought of diesel/atf mix but that's not a bad idea. I'll crack it open Monday and see what I find, and then probably mix some fuel up for the next trip over there.