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The PAINT thread!

Doing masking. Would like to have some layout points. Will graphite pencil lead fuck with the paint?

Can I wipe over the masking tape with solvent wax a grease without fucking it up? That takes off pencil marks I belive.
 
Java230 said:
Doing masking. Would like to have some layout points. Will graphite pencil lead fuck with the paint?

Can I wipe over the masking tape with solvent wax a grease without fucking it up? That takes off pencil marks I belive.
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You can wipe down after masking tape is on... I typically use alcohol for the final pass on a lint free wipe. Then a tac cloth after that. And shoot. Just doule check your tape with some neprene gloves before you spray.
 
Help me with my gun settings. There seems to be a LOT of overspray sticking to everything in sight. The first time I used the LVLP it wasn't bad. I used the HTE and it sucked. I went back to the LVLP and it sucked as well.
I can't remember the exact settings right now but. The first time I ended up with a lot of orange peel so I upped the air pressure a little and ended up with a giant blue fog and orange peel. :lmao:

No orange peel on the floor though.

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That shit ain't dust I can sweep up.
 
billybob_81067 said:
Seriously thinking about getting something like this. Although I don't know I paint enough to justify it.
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I was looking into those inflatable booths awhile back. I watched two separate videos and both of them had an issue where the fan stopped and they had to panic to keep the booth from collapsing on the car they were painting. The one tripped a breaker and I forget exactly what happened with the other one. That gave me a bit of pause that both of them had it happen.

Other than that, they both had reasonably good things to say about them for what they are.
 
Here's what my garage looks like whilst painting... I will typically cover the floor with rosin paper also... and I hang some plastic to cover everything not in the paint area. I also fire up 4 fans to flow the overspray under the garage door and place a filter in the plastic tent to help with dust nibs.

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I haven't a clue how you set your guns up but I may be able to offer some advice if I saw a finish pic of whatever you painted. To much, to little air, lack of clean air and etc.. I REALLY scrub and clean the paint area prior to shooting also, just to keep trash or debris from making it's way to the finish area.
 
jeepyj said:
Help me with my gun settings. There seems to be a LOT of overspray sticking to everything in sight. The first time I used the LVLP it wasn't bad. I used the HTE and it sucked. I went back to the LVLP and it sucked as well.
I can't remember the exact settings right now but. The first time I ended up with a lot of orange peel so I upped the air pressure a little and ended up with a giant blue fog and orange peel. :lmao:

No orange peel on the floor though.
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Was watching this hoping to get better info as I have had the same problem.

May not be correct or popular opinion but I thin my paint just a little. I can spray and low pressure to keep overspray down and it lays out nice and smooth.

Haven't wet sanded or buffed since I started doing that.
 
flecker said:
I also fire up 4 fans to flow the overspray under the garage door and place a filter in the plastic tent to help with dust nibs.
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Flowing the air out under the door is a good idea, but what are you doing for incoming air? That ends up being my issue - trying to filter the air coming in so that I'm not sucking dust across everything.
 
Tiha said:
May not be correct or popular opinion but I thin my paint just a little. I can spray and low pressure to keep overspray down and it lays out nice and smooth.
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I just watched this the other day and was going to give it a try:


Basically, he says you want your first coat to be tacky for adhesion, but then reduce the second coat a bit so that it lays out smoother.
 
PAToyota said:
Flowing the air out under the door is a good idea, but what are you doing for incoming air? That ends up being my issue - trying to filter the air coming in so that I'm not sucking dust across everything.
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So first CLEAN up really well... especially after you hang your plastic. Then I buy a cheap AC filter. 20x16 or whatever is on sale/ cheap . I cut that into the plastic (Duct tape it into place) near the window and it works like a charm. Much more tidy than just spraying in the garage without any protection. The rosin paper is the ticket. It keeps any dust from kickin up while you walk around. The wetting the floor works ok also, but I don't want the extra moisture when I paint. Rosin paper is cheap and easy. Prep work is literally 95% of the job.
 
Also, like Flecker said I did hang plastic around to get the little over spray I did have contained. My Garage is almost 40 feet long and the far end has 2 windows that I crack open, then crack open the man door. Good ventilation
 
PAToyota said:
Ok, that was the part I was curious about - filtering the incoming air.
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It works well. AND it's reusable, but cheap enough to toss when you are done. The real key is air flow. I have 4 small industrial type fans that I set under garage door to keep the air moving along.
 
Okay so I need to ask this, maybe next time I will find it here when I go looking.

Lately I have went away from base/clear and back to single stage acrylic enamel. For one, it is simple, quick, easy, cheap. Seems to hold up just as well for kids or people that continue to bounce their cars off of things.

I have been trying to use up all the napa, martin senior, crossfire products I have. Seems like I have half a bottle of this and that.

Today is reducers. I have CR733 and CR734. I am pretty sure they were bought for base/clear but from what I am reading I can use it on my acrylic enamel?

Does anyone say that is not the case?

I think I have done it before. Just can't remember, I go through this every time. I paint more than I want to and hate it so much I do my best to forget.
 
Seriously, I don't know why anyone would ever take paint advice from me. I shouldn't even be painting.

Dusty old, greasy shop. I am literally standing in a puddle of oil while spraying.

Could not find a mixing cup, so I cut the top off an obsolete fuel filter and just used the housing.

No measuring devices at all. Dump some color, dump some hardner, thin till I like it.

But it sure does seem like they turn out better when you just don't care.

And in edit, this is one of those cheapest bumper covers you can buy off ebay. It comes primed (which is important if you don't know) but it also comes folded like a letter and tapped up tight.

This one unfolded just fine and went back into shape just laying open in my garage for a couple weeks. When i did the wife's front bumper it did not completely recover. I had to take a heat gun and help it.

2nd picture is first coat. You can see texture.
3rd picture is 2nd coat. Nice, smooth, and wet.
Probably do one more coat, don't know need to put my glasses on and look closer. LOL
 

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I'll try and answer your Q on reducer... MOST reducer's will have a urethane in them and are a mish mash of Naphtha's, Ketones and other solvents. For pretty much any 2 stage system I will use a reducer with some urethane. Acrylic Urethane's single stage also it's fine to use. For Enamel's, I try to avoid urethane type reducers... They have isocyanates and I tend not to want to break out combo cartridges when painting enamels.

I guess you could, but when I paint enamel I will typically buy a reducer made for enamel. It's all temperature driven.

Nice paint work to mang! :beer::grinpimp:
 
flecker said:
I guess you could, but when I paint enamel I will typically buy a reducer made for enamel. It's all temperature driven.
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Great info.

I did use the Ch733 reducer. Pretty sure I have before. BUT I had also noticed the paint did not dry very fast, or at least not what I am used to or expected in the past.

Would imagine that is part of the effect you are talking about.

Otherwise it did not seem to affect it in a bad way, yet. We'll see how long it takes her to knock the paint off it.

Sprayed it Wednesday night. Left undisturbed until Friday morning. Still looks great. Is finally dry. LOL It will also sit another week or so before I have time to put it on.
 
Tiha said:
Great info.

I did use the Ch733 reducer. Pretty sure I have before. BUT I had also noticed the paint did not dry very fast, or at least not what I am used to or expected in the past.

Would imagine that is part of the effect you are talking about.

Otherwise it did not seem to affect it in a bad way, yet. We'll see how long it takes her to knock the paint off it.

Sprayed it Wednesday night. Left undisturbed until Friday morning. Still looks great. Is finally dry. LOL It will also sit another week or so before I have time to put it on.
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Yeah... it can definitely prolong dry times. Especially when the temps dip some.

One tip for enamels is to add hardener (same with urethans based acrylic's, except it will be a urethane based hardener) and the dry time should be under a few hours, not DAYS... :laughing: I sprayed a car like 25 years ago and it was just straight enamel. Was like bubble gum for about 3 days. It finally dried, but it took a loooooong time.
 
Yah, What PATyota said...

For primers I am shooting through a 1.8 or larger tip, pending on primer type. You can reduce it, but it won't flow well and will clog up your 1.3 tip most likely.

What type of spray gun? Sometime you can order a separate tip for primers and use the same gun.
 
flecker said:
Yah, What PATyota said...

For primers I am shooting through a 1.8 or larger tip, pending on primer type. You can reduce it, but it won't flow well and will clog up your 1.3 tip most likely.

What type of spray gun? Sometime you can order a separate tip for primers and use the same gun.
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Hf nicer one.

But I'll prob grab another larger one, I got that for clear.
 
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