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The PAINT thread!

Java230 said:
The primer is going to be my color coat.
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So you are going to shoot primer, then clear coat it? Not sure I am following here.

If that's the case, then still go with the 1.8 tip to lay the primer down and give it a sand with some 400-600 grit.
 
flecker said:
So you are going to shoot primer, then clear coat it? Not sure I am following here.

If that's the case, then still go with the 1.8 tip to lay the primer down and give it a sand with some 400-600 grit.
Click to expand...
Exactly.

I'll get a bigger tip.
 
Started a thing.

this excursion is going from Black to white.

We are gutting it. Going to have to cut in the door frames, window frames, fenders, hood. All that crap.

Question. What to use?

The exterior will be base coat clear coat. But what about the door jambs and such?

I was thinking single stage. Kind of thinking acrylic lacquer because of the fast drying aspect.

Or should I use acrylic enamel?

Is there any other way to prep these miserable areas other than hand scuffing them?

Not sure if it was a gimmic or not but back in the day we used a product called XIM or something like that. It was clear, you spray it on, it was an adhesion promoter. Spray it, put your color over the stop. It eliminated the need for scuffing.
We used it on construction equipment. seemed to hold up okay. Can't really recall if the final finish was nice or not.
20230719_193815.jpg
 
Tiha said:
Started a thing.

this excursion is going from Black to white.

We are gutting it. Going to have to cut in the door frames, window frames, fenders, hood. All that crap.

Question. What to use?

The exterior will be base coat clear coat. But what about the door jambs and such?

I was thinking single stage. Kind of thinking acrylic lacquer because of the fast drying aspect.

Or should I use acrylic enamel?

Is there any other way to prep these miserable areas other than hand scuffing them?

Not sure if it was a gimmic or not but back in the day we used a product called XIM or something like that. It was clear, you spray it on, it was an adhesion promoter. Spray it, put your color over the stop. It eliminated the need for scuffing.
We used it on construction equipment. seemed to hold up okay. Can't really recall if the final finish was nice or not.
20230719_193815.jpg
Click to expand...
https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/xim/bonders/flash-bond-400c-nt

This stuff. It's awesome, never noticed any issue with final finish if applied correctly. Remember, you need to put paint on it before it's fully cured...
 
Nice little trick I picked up on the paint job I just did. A gallon freezer bag fits in a gallon paint can nicely. Then you can mix up as much paint or primer as you need in one shot, and seal it up without the cleanup of individual batches.
PXL_20230724_002001208.jpg
 
Tiha said:
Started a thing.

this excursion is going from Black to white.

We are gutting it. Going to have to cut in the door frames, window frames, fenders, hood. All that crap.

Question. What to use?

The exterior will be base coat clear coat. But what about the door jambs and such?

I was thinking single stage. Kind of thinking acrylic lacquer because of the fast drying aspect.

Or should I use acrylic enamel?

Is there any other way to prep these miserable areas other than hand scuffing them?

Not sure if it was a gimmic or not but back in the day we used a product called XIM or something like that. It was clear, you spray it on, it was an adhesion promoter. Spray it, put your color over the stop. It eliminated the need for scuffing.
We used it on construction equipment. seemed to hold up okay. Can't really recall if the final finish was nice or not.
20230719_193815.jpg
Click to expand...
Unless you want the paint to peel off, it needs to be sanded with at least an 800 grit paper, if not a little courser. The adhesion promotor was more of a gimmick than a shortcut. They way we were instructed to use it was to scuff around the edges with a red scotch brite pad, then spray the promotor on, then right over it with color. Think of it like a feather pillow. As long as the seams are intact, the feathers will stay IN the pillow. Get a little tear (scratch, chip, etc) and if falls apart. The chip or scratch (from a rivet on a pocket, or a key, or catch it with a grocery bag) will start the peeling. Then there is nothing to stop it until it all peels off.

If you are planning to spray base/clear on the exterior, I would get with the paint store and figure out what single stage you can spray the interior with that wont have issues when you come over it with base/clear. (I've been out of it for a while, but sprayed jambs on a vehicle with single stage. When we came over it with the base, the reducers in the color wrinkled the single stage under it. Had to strip and start over)
 
speed bump said:
Nice little trick I picked up on the paint job I just did. A gallon freezer bag fits in a gallon paint can nicely. Then you can mix up as much paint or primer as you need in one shot, and seal it up without the cleanup of individual batches.
PXL_20230724_002001208.jpg
Click to expand...
I’m stealing that :beer:
 
maveric said:
Unless you want the paint to peel off, it needs to be sanded with at least an 800 grit paper, if not a little courser. The adhesion promotor was more of a gimmick than a shortcut. They way we were instructed to use it was to scuff around the edges with a red scotch brite pad, then spray the promotor on, then right over it with color. Think of it like a feather pillow. As long as the seams are intact, the feathers will stay IN the pillow. Get a little tear (scratch, chip, etc) and if falls apart. The chip or scratch (from a rivet on a pocket, or a key, or catch it with a grocery bag) will start the peeling. Then there is nothing to stop it until it all peels off.

If you are planning to spray base/clear on the exterior, I would get with the paint store and figure out what single stage you can spray the interior with that wont have issues when you come over it with base/clear. (I've been out of it for a while, but sprayed jambs on a vehicle with single stage. When we came over it with the base, the reducers in the color wrinkled the single stage under it. Had to strip and start over)
Click to expand...
YMMV but I’ve painted greasy old tractors just by power-washing them and spraying flashbond. 15 years later all the paint is still on them.
Edit: these weren’t show tractors that sit inside either. These are working tractors
 
IowaOffRoad said:
YMMV but I’ve painted greasy old tractors just by power-washing them and spraying flashbond. 15 years later all the paint is still on them.
Edit: these weren’t show tractors that sit inside either. These are working tractors
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See that's the difference. You didn't give a fuck.

When you don't give a fuck and don't try and do a good job that shit ain't ever coming off.

If you care, that shit is guaranteed to peel. :laughing:
 
Used to use brake fluid to take the paint off of scale models when I was a kid.

And the kid in the shop that didn't clean up the mess he made while bleeding brakes peeled all the paint off the brake shield and frame...
 
I have pretty much decided to use base clear on the door jambs. I know it is the smartest, even though I don't want to make that extra trip around the truck.

As well as scuffing/sanding. Probably got to do it all by hand. It will probably go faster than i think it will. I can probably use a sander on more of it than I think as well.

But what really made the decision for me was the rockers. they get a lot of abuse and don't want to shoot myself in the foot there.
 
Newbie question...

how much paint is needed to paint a dually truck bed (sides only)? Quart? Gallon? 55 gallon drum? dump truck full?
 
Quart of single stage not including the required reducer and hardener (for single stage anyway).

Depends on how many coats you need though. I wouldn't believe it would take more than 2 quarts of color with the reducer and hardener.
 
GLTHFJ60 said:
Quart of single stage not including the required reducer and hardener (for single stage anyway).

Depends on how many coats you need though. I wouldn't believe it would take more than 2 quarts of color with the reducer and hardener.
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two stage... thinking about a ready to spray with a urethane clear.
 
IIRC two stage base coats still need reducer and hardener, but the ratios are different. Again, depending what color you're going with and painting over, I can't imagine needing more than two quarts. I bet one quart will be enough.
 
Regarding epoxy primers. I noticed Evercoat Super Build 4:1 technical data sheet says not to apply over acidic coatings. Would Ospho be considered an acidic coating even though it is not technically acidic after it dries?

Superbuild 4:1
 
Some questions for the pros..

Where does DTM paint come in compared to auto paint?

Lately I see a lot of reference to scotch brite vs sandpaper. Which one to use for scuffing up paint prior.

Is water based paint shit?
 
fordguy said:
Some questions for the pros..

Where does DTM paint come in compared to auto paint? Lots of people seem to be doing it on YT as a low cost option with fair to decent results.

Lately I see a lot of reference to scotch brite vs sandpaper. Which one to use for scuffing up paint prior. It can be a preference thing. Scotchbrite can be a bit more forgiving.

Is water based paint shit? First, it is waterbourne paint. Water based paint is a different animal. With the need to meet environmental regulations, a lot of R&D has gone into it and it is a lot better than early versions. It can be more difficult for the DIYer to use, with the temperature and humidity requirements.
Click to expand...

Not sure if you're looking for more than that?
 
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