The black jeep - 1 ton XJ

You want to make me one of those xrossmembers while you’re at it? Ecobox/231 version. Thanks.
 
God damn bro you trying to take this thing in the water too? Lookin like an amphibious vehicle with that underside

Got pics of it without the skid plate? Are you going to add some bolt head protectors even though it’s hex key and counter sunk? I feel like one good drag across the head will make it a PITA getting a hex in there
 
fl0w3n said:
God damn bro you trying to take this thing in the water too? Lookin like an amphibious vehicle with that underside

Got pics of it without the skid plate? Are you going to add some bolt head protectors even though it’s hex key and counter sunk? I feel like one good drag across the head will make it a PITA getting a hex in there
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Ha! flat belly is where its at, lots of work but worth it:flipoff2: Not worried about the counter sinks. They are overkill 1/2-13, even if they get completely tore up I can hammer the allen socket in or worse case drill and easy-out them.
 
Mike Honcho said:
Ha! flat belly is where its at, lots of work but worth it:flipoff2: Not worried about the counter sinks. They are overkill 1/2-13, even if they get completely tore up I can hammer the allen socket in or worse case drill and easy-out them.
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Post up some more pics if you have them.
 
Got the rear panels installed. Going to clean everything up for seam sealant and prep for under body paint. Also made the some shifters for the tcase/doubler.

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Mike Honcho said:
The 6 gear is twice as strong? They are also easy to find and cheap at the junkyard. I used the NWF cable shifter for the t case and made my own direct link shifter for the doubler. Here's some pics of the MJ.

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Did you happen to ever take any pictures or remember how much lower one rotation clocked down was? That's dope how flat it came out, but I won't be able to raise my seat up as much as you had to.

Also, I didn't notice before but what's the story on those door cards?

While we're at it...where's the full build thread for this thing :flipoff2:
 
fl0w3n said:
Did you happen to ever take any pictures or remember how much lower one rotation clocked down was? That's dope how flat it came out, but I won't be able to raise my seat up as much as you had to.

Also, I didn't notice before but what's the story on those door cards?

While we're at it...where's the full build thread for this thing :flipoff2:
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I don't.

I found a mint gold 99 xj at the JY and took basically everything from it. Interior, fenders, grille and doors.

There is a build thread on the old site :flipoff2:
 
Mike Honcho said:
I don't.

I found a mint gold 99 xj at the JY and took basically everything from it. Interior, fenders, grille and doors.

There is a build thread on the old site :flipoff2:
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Damnit I just finished getting rid of my STDs, I can’t go back to the old place now
 
Are you using the Dana 300 clocking ring from the Ecobox company? I think they say each adjustment is 3 degrees.
 
RunningProblem said:
Are you using the Dana 300 clocking ring from the Ecobox company? I think they say each adjustment is 3 degrees.
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The eco box is the clocking ring

That’s a good point, but I’m tired and my eyeball protractor isn’t working so I can’t tell what 3 degrees down would look like in inches
 
2 inches is my guess. When I messed around with mine on the 231 there was really only two options. Just above, and just below flat belly which means there was one way to mount it.
 
fl0w3n said:
The eco box is the clocking ring

That’s a good point, but I’m tired and my eyeball protractor isn’t working so I can’t tell what 3 degrees down would look like in inches
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I think clocking it down one from flat you could probably leave the seat in the stock location but would still require sheet metal work on the tunnel. The crossmember also becomes an issue the more you clock it down, too far and you might need a carrier bearing driveshaft or a custom crossmember.
 
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Mike Honcho said:
I think clocking it down one from flat you could probably leave the seat in the stock location but would still require sheet metal work on the tunnel. The crossmember also becomes an issue the more you clock it down, too far and you might need a carrier bearing driveshaft or a custom crossmember.
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Yeah I’d like to avoid a carrier bearing situation. Are you running the stock seats and slider mechanism? I wonder if eliminating that and fixed mounting them would allow the floor to come up without raising the seat?
 
What is so bad about a carrier bearing? 8” long driveshaft to a carrier bearing welded to the front of the transmission crossmember, then a double cardan to the front axle is what I had thought up for my doubler.


Moving the seat and making seat brackets is a dream of mine. I want a bench seat in the rear with 5 point harness attachment points for my kids.
 
Mike Honcho said:
I got some mastercraft cheapo seats. Figured it was easier than trying to keep rear bench seats.
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Was a challenge to keep the driver seat close to oem height as possible. I had ro raise it 1.5" to clear the tcase sheet metal.
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Made the rear seat mounts out of some tube and 1/4 plate on the oem sheet metal and also tied into the sliders.

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What thickness did you use up front? I’m hitting a point of wanting new seats in my rig so I can have kids/small adults in the rear and use a lap/shoulder belt instead of car seats.
 
Not super happy about my reservoir mount. Mounted directly to the pump with a female union. The res is supported to the shock hoop with rubber isolator mounts. Thinking this might become an issue when the engine moves under load. Ideally I would like it supported to the engine not the shock hoop so they move together. Nowhere to brace it off the intake manifold. Running browndog poly bushing engine mounts that are pretty stiff. Redo or send it?

1Sinner Byro Simple'72CJ

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