The black jeep - 1 ton XJ

fl0w3n i used the circuit breaker for the dryer in my house, cut a hole in the panel from the garage side, and ram wires to an outlet. Fuck the rental.



Oh and a Harbor Freight 220 volt 170+ amp welder will be fine. I once laid down some great beads with my ‘non-red or blue or white’ brand welder. Indian, not the arrow.
 
What’s the driver seat situation when you rebuild the tunnel? As you know the seat already hugs the tunnel as is. I can’t go any higher with my seat, I won’t be able to get into the Jeep cuz I’m too tall.

Will you be able to keep the same seating position?
 
Making the unibody not suck. Sliders are 2x6x1/4 and 2x2x1/4. I will tie the interior and exo cage into these making one solid structure.

My milwaukee metal circ saw made cutting these so easy. I wish I had bought one years ago!
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Thick to thin. Only a few mistakes.
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Slick, I like the stubs back to the inside of the rocker. Are you going to do little boat side plates or leave it open?
 
Made a trans mount. Will also tie the engine skid plate and the belly skid plate into this. Still have to make a t case mount.

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A little overhead welding.
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Also got the WOD 1410 carrier bearing ds. This thing is beefy!:usa:
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Mike Honcho said:
Making the unibody not suck. Sliders are 2x6x1/4 and 2x2x1/4. I will tie the interior and exo cage into these making one solid structure.

My milwaukee metal circ saw made cutting these so easy. I wish I had bought one years ago!



Thick to thin. Only a few mistakes.


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Question - I see you spaced the 2x6 out from the inside of the rocker. Is this because of the random screws/bolts/body seam and shit, or did you do that for another reason? Also, is the 2x6 just attached to the body via the weld on top and the kickers down to the frame? I'm not seeing the 2x6 welded to your angle iron support, was the angle iron just to assist with lining it up and giving a sturdier location for the top short legs to push against?

I'm trying to figure out if I can do 2x6 or 2x4 rocker replacements without frame stiffeners and something to kick down to. I'm stubborn and still haven't done any frame stiffening.
 
The 2x6 is spaced out to tie the exo cage into the sliders also helps keep the doors out of the rocks. 2x2 supports are spaced to tie interior cage into. Basically it will be all one solid structure with the unibody sandwiched in the middle.

The 2x2 spacers aren't welded to the angle, its as you thought in aiding the install and beefing up the oem sheet metal.

Do frame stiffeners first before sliders.
 
fl0w3n said:
Question - I see you spaced the 2x6 out from the inside of the rocker. Is this because of the random screws/bolts/body seam and shit, or did you do that for another reason? Also, is the 2x6 just attached to the body via the weld on top and the kickers down to the frame? I'm not seeing the 2x6 welded to your angle iron support, was the angle iron just to assist with lining it up and giving a sturdier location for the top short legs to push against?

I'm trying to figure out if I can do 2x6 or 2x4 rocker replacements without frame stiffeners and something to kick down to. I'm stubborn and still haven't done any frame stiffening.
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I second doing frame stiffeners before sliders. It's good practice in patience welding to the unibody, and if you do a good job welding them on you're now welding to 3/16 material which is MUCH easier.


Damn Mike, you're going to have a TON of space to weld your cage to. Those 2x6s where you have them are probably equal to most people using 2x8.
 
T case mount is in. Needed to be removable(obviously) and notched for exhaust. It warped pretty good after welding the exhaust cutout. A couple cranks in the press and it is perfectly straight now :flipoff2:

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No more jack stand!
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Rear DS is cut to length. I left 3/8" travel in the slip yoke at full bump. I just need to weld it. A little scared:lmao:

I eyeballed the pinion angle and its spot on didn't have to adjust the links.
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Damn, makin quick work.

Do you have concerns running the tcase support offset like that from the trans mount? Looks more like a lower case y instead of uppercase Y, is that how your MJ is done? I've yet to add a tcase support but from the thread here it seemed like that can cause issues

Also, what do you do your metal prep with? Some sort of sander? All the prep looks really good
 
Mike Honcho said:
Rear DS is cut to length. I left 3/8" travel in the slip yoke at full bump. I just need to weld it. A little scared:lmao:

I eyeballed the pinion angle and its spot on didn't have to adjust the links.
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Did that shaft look okay cycling the axle? Typically full stuff = longest driveshaft length and Full droop = shortest driveshaft length.

Unless your pinion angle changes a bunch during travel.
 
fl0w3n said:
Damn, makin quick work.

Do you have concerns running the tcase support offset like that from the trans mount? Looks more like a lower case y instead of uppercase Y, is that how your MJ is done? I've yet to add a tcase support but from the thread here it seemed like that can cause issues

Also, what do you do your metal prep with? Some sort of sander? All the prep looks really good
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Ideally they would both be inline with the output. My MJ is centered because the d300 is much smaller. There just wasn't enough space to center the mount and make a flat panel skid plate.

I use a da palm sander to prep metal.
 
NickMaul said:
Did that shaft look okay cycling the axle? Typically full stuff = longest driveshaft length and Full droop = shortest driveshaft length.

Unless your pinion angle changes a bunch during travel.
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I think you have that backwards. Full bump is the shortest length and full droop is the longest. That's how mine measures anyways.
 
What thickness tubing did you use for the transfer case mount? I’m essentially going to copy it as much as possible.

Also, did you drill through the unibody then sleeve it? 1/2” grade 8 bolts or something else?
 
.120" dom. The unibody is plated both sides and sleeved with some .250" dom. It's a barnes bushing, think it's a 9/16 bolt on that and 1/2 bolts for the tube flanges.
 
I just worked 21 days in a row. Feel like I haven't worked on the jeep in a month:lmao: Plan is to work on the jeep all this week and get some shit done!

Both front drive shafts are in. I had to order a 2" front shaft as the 2.5" was hitting the upper link at full stuff no matter how much I repositioned the carrier bearing shaft. The 2" shaft just clears.

Rear coilovers and bumps are in also.

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Any pro tips for tig welding .120 wall dom? I'm using,

Grey 3/32 tungsten w/ 20° grind
er70s6 1/16 filler
115 amps.
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