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The black jeep - 1 ton XJ

Mike Honcho

Mike Honcho

Red Skull Member
Joined
Jan 15, 2021
Member Number
3379
Messages
555
Loc
Missouri
I started this build over 5 years ago. Lots of things got in the way of finishing it but I have decided to finally get it done. I am a newbie with respect to building a rig like this. I appreciate any advice/criticism you fucking fucks have :flipoff2:

It’s a 1996 XJ 4.0 w/aw4.

KP 60 front
Spool
5.38 gears
chromo 35 spline shafts
super joints
Ecgs drive flanges
4 link
Full hydro
16" radflos

14b rear
Orb of traction
5.38 gears
chromo 30 spline shafts
4 link
16" radflos

Np205 with nwf eco box
1410 2.5" .250wall front/rear DS
Wide open design 1410 Carrier Bearing Shaft Kit.
40 maxxis razor MT DOT tires
RBP 17 beadlocks


Lot of cutting and lots of tube work are planned.

Parts dump.
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I am working on finishing the axles, gears, shafts and steering stuff at the moment.

14b gears are done.
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I had originally bought spicer joints for the D60 but ECGS hooked me up with a good deal on some super joints. The yukons are huge in comparison. I Finished building front shafts.

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Cut the rear shafts to length. The chromos aren't necked down like the stockers.

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Practicing some TIG welding with the HS arms.

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Got the toe set and welded up a tie rod. I think I'm going to double shear the drag link heim on top of the HS arms. Not sure it is necessary? Thoughts?

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Double sheer all heims.
how far forward are you moving the axle? It looks like your front tire will require a radiator relocation, or a new radiator.
Don’t the Yukon superjoints require grease before every trip?
you have a monster driveshaft built for this thing.

This is going to make my Cherokee look like shit. :lmao:
 
Progress looks good. Are you doing the eco box or eco box-i? Post up pics of assembling that thing
 
RunningProblem said:
Double sheer all heims.
how far forward are you moving the axle? It looks like your front tire will require a radiator relocation, or a new radiator.
Don’t the Yukon superjoints require grease before every trip?
you have a monster driveshaft built for this thing.

This is going to make my Cherokee look like shit. :lmao:
Click to expand...

Stock location rad. Shooting for 115wb. Very similar to my MJ. I tend to break stuff so I figured the stock spicer joints wouldnt cut it. I can deal with greasing u joints every trip long as I don't break em.
 
fl0w3n said:
Progress looks good. Are you doing the eco box or eco box-i? Post up pics of assembling that thing
Click to expand...

Yes, the eco box-i. Still waiting on it, NWF has a 12 week lead time! Should be here first week of Jan.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
The neck down is better and what makes stock 14b shafts so strong for what they are.

With out it. The weakest part of the axle is the splines. The neck down allows the entire shaft to twist and flex and makes it over all stronger.
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Learn something new everyday. I figured they were stronger. This is from a the Billavista tech article for the dana 60-

"How strong are the different axle shafts?

(note these figures are subject to much debate)

Standard Dana axles (1040 steel, induction hardened)

30 sp 1.31" 6,044.1 ft/lbs
35 sp 1.50" 8,966.2 ft/lbs.
Moser Engineering (1541m, induction hardened)
30 Spline - 6,200 ft/ lbs.

35 spline - 9,600 ft/lbs.

Aftermarket 4340 steel, thru hardened

30sp 1.31" 9,923.5 ft/lbs
35 sp 1.5" 14,721 ft/lbs"
 
115” is fucking LONG. Shot man that’s going to be cool to see you assemble. Do you plan on angling your coilovers forward, or are you going to keep it all vertical?
Also, where are you mounting a track bar with such a long wheelbase?
 
RunningProblem said:
115” is fucking LONG. Shot man that’s going to be cool to see you assemble. Do you plan on angling your coilovers forward, or are you going to keep it all vertical?
Also, where are you mounting a track bar with such a long wheelbase?
Click to expand...

I like em long! Lol. Coilovers will all be custom tube mounts. Fronts will most likely be angled forward a bit and the rear will be vertical. Front and rear will both be dual triangulated 4 link, no panhard bar.
 
Mike Honcho said:
Yes, the eco box-i. Still waiting on it, NWF has a 12 week lead time! Should be here first week of Jan.
Click to expand...
Nice, I’m hoping to order the -i early next year for my 300. What guts are you going with
 
Mike Honcho said:
I like em long! Lol. Coilovers will all be custom tube mounts. Fronts will most likely be angled forward a bit and the rear will be vertical. Front and rear will both be dual triangulated 4 link, no panhard bar.
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I’m dumb. Should have read twice and thought once. Excited to see the 4 links. Might steal some ideas.
 
I was just thinking about this, and assumed he was going full hydro. I’m picturing this being more of a street legal buggy.
 
Mike Honcho said:
Learn something new everyday. I figured they were stronger. This is from a the Billavista tech article for the dana 60-

"How strong are the different axle shafts?

(note these figures are subject to much debate)

Standard Dana axles (1040 steel, induction hardened)

30 sp 1.31" 6,044.1 ft/lbs
35 sp 1.50" 8,966.2 ft/lbs.
Moser Engineering (1541m, induction hardened)
30 Spline - 6,200 ft/ lbs.

35 spline - 9,600 ft/lbs.

Aftermarket 4340 steel, thru hardened

30sp 1.31" 9,923.5 ft/lbs
35 sp 1.5" 14,721 ft/lbs"
Click to expand...

Most people don't know, not like those axles are weak, but the correct way is the neck down.
 
Byro said:
You know triangulated 4 link and normal steering don’t work together right?
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Minus a little bump steer why not? I prefer a mechanical connection to the steering as I want to drive this on the street.
 
fl0w3n said:
Nice, I’m hoping to order the -i early next year for my 300. What guts are you going with
Click to expand...

I run the eco box I with a dana 300 in my MJ. I will kball the annulus and input from the 231 in the jeep and get a planetary gear from a mid 90s blazer at the junkyard.
 
Mike Honcho said:
I run the eco box I with a dana 300 in my MJ. I will kball the annulus and input from the 231 in the jeep and get a planetary gear from a mid 90s blazer at the junkyard.
Click to expand...
So a 6 gear planetary? Any reason you didn't want to use the 3 gear from the 231? Curious if you did cable shifters or linkage for the (I assume) flipped 300?
 
fl0w3n said:
So a 6 gear planetary? Any reason you didn't want to use the 3 gear from the 231? Curious if you did cable shifters or linkage for the (I assume) flipped 300?
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The 6 gear is twice as strong? They are also easy to find and cheap at the junkyard. I used the NWF cable shifter for the t case and made my own direct link shifter for the doubler. Here's some pics of the MJ.

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Mike Honcho said:
Minus a little bump steer why not? I prefer a mechanical connection to the steering as I want to drive this on the street.
Click to expand...

It would be minimal on the street yes, where you maybe use 3” of travel. However on the trail I’d prefer to not have the steering and suspension fight each other throughout the travel.
 
Mike Honcho said:
Minus a little bump steer why not? I prefer a mechanical connection to the steering as I want to drive this on the street.
Click to expand...
4 link with mechanical steering? This is going to be interesting.


Edit: what did you find your 6 gear planetary out of? I’d love to put one in my NP231.
Did you do a wide chain yet or not?
 
Byro said:
It would be minimal on the street yes, where you maybe use 3” of travel. However on the trail I’d prefer to not have the steering and suspension fight each other throughout the travel.
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I get it. So would you drive full hydro on the street or deal with the bump steer? I have zero experience with either.
 
It all depends on how much street driving you plan on doing. Little bit here and there with full hydro, no problem. An enduro rig that sees more street time than trail time Id probably build a 3 link front.

My rig goes down the road just fine with full hydro and I have no worries about it, however it gets a little twitchy at 65.
 
Mike Honcho said:
I get it. So would you drive full hydro on the street or deal with the bump steer? I have zero experience with either.
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Full hydro on the street. I had bump steer. Not fun.


I went 3 link up front though. I don’t have the skills to 4 link the front of a Cherokee. Way too many things fight each other.
 
Byro said:
It all depends on how much street driving you plan on doing. Little bit here and there with full hydro, no problem. An enduro rig that sees more street time than trail time Id probably build a 3 link front.

My rig goes down the road just fine with full hydro and I have no worries about it, however it gets a little twitchy at 65.
Click to expand...


Fuck. You're going to make me spend some money. :flipoff2:

I think this will be a 99% offroad rig but I would like to drive it on the street, to and from trails and such.
 
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