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“Spongey” would lead me to believe you need more infil unless it’s a tpu.

Only had one print be “spongey” and it was 7.5% infill.
 
kf4zht said:
Silk is a little harder to print, but not much different. It will almost always need a different extruder temp than regular PLA.

Ideall you should do a temp tower with every new spool or lot, but at the very least every new brand/type. They all have a different ideal print temp
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The temp on the spool is 55-70 190-220.

Pocahontas said:
“Spongey” would lead me to believe you need more infil unless it’s a tpu.

Only had one print be “spongey” and it was 7.5% infill.
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Its like the layers did not bond, if you grab it and squeeze it becomes fishing line.

20% infil. Same exact file I ahve printed before
 
Java230 said:
The temp on the spool is 55-70 190-220.


Its like the layers did not bond, if you grab it and squeeze it becomes fishing line.

20% infil. Same exact file I ahve printed before
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Need to up your nozzle temps if your not getting adhesion.
 
Java230 said:
The temp on the spool is 55-70 190-220.


Its like the layers did not bond, if you grab it and squeeze it becomes fishing line.

20% infil. Same exact file I ahve printed before
Click to expand...
A couple of thoughts,
Have you checked your extruder steps? Pretty easy to do on a Bowden extruder by unplugging the filament tube from the hot end side of the extruder, marking the filament (or cut it flush with the extruder) and then commanding 100mm+ (longer distance makes the calibration more accurate) of extrusion and measure the output.
Might also be worth doing a calibration tower, using something like this: Calibration cross by lukeskymuh to make sure your Z steps are correct.
 
Java230 said:
OK question time.

I printed a print I have done before, but different PLA this time. The print is "spongy". Last time I used a straight black from Hatchbox. I got a different brand this time, is a red/black silk color, is it just crap?

Bed is set to 70, end is 220
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As mentioned, each brand is a little different. Sometimes even different rolls of the same brand.

When I have trouble with filament, I start by drying the filament at least overnight if not for a day. Makes all the difference.

I agree upping the nozzle temp should help with layer adhesion. I'd go 5c at a time and test it on a short print.

A temp tower will tell you the correct print temp for that particular roll of filament. Here's a great tuning page. Teaching Tech Temp Tuning
 
Tried a temp tower. All Suck.

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Looks like wet filament. Is it brittle? Ive had brand new rolls do that, overnight in a food dehydrator or oven on low will fix that problem. Could also be underextruding, check that next.
 
YZRider said:
Looks like wet filament. Is it brittle? Ive had brand new rolls do that, overnight in a food dehydrator or oven on low will fix that problem. Could also be underextruding, check that next.
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Its was a new roll out of the sealed bag 1 week ago. Still has the desiccant bag stuck in the middle:lmao:

It printed perfectly a week ago with 6 month old black PLA.... Maybe this is slipperier and extruder isn't doing its thing?
 
Yeah, I've had bad ones straight out of the sealed bag. Raise the print head up and rerun the filament loading, then run your fingers over the extruded filament. If its anything other than smooth, dry out the roll.

You have a bowden drive? It should be easy to see where the drive roller spins out on the filament after you do an unload.

220/70 should be plenty for PLA.
 
YZRider said:
Yeah, I've had bad ones straight out of the sealed bag. Raise the print head up and rerun the filament loading, then run your fingers over the extruded filament. If its anything other than smooth, dry out the roll.

You have a bowden drive? It should be easy to see where the drive roller spins out on the filament after you do an unload.

220/70 should be plenty for PLA.
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It's making a "clunk" noise which it first did when I got it. I increased the fees roller tension and that seemed to do it. Seems like when it's first stopping the filament feed. Before it pulls it back to move if that makes sense.

I raised the feed gear/wheel up so it's on a fresh area.

I'm a print noob....
 
I have never ventured away from manufactured specs, and I think I have only had one fail.
Typically my biggest problem is bed leveling, and the problems that does with it
 
Java230 said:
It's making a "clunk" noise which it first did when I got it. I increased the fees roller tension and that seemed to do it. Seems like when it's first stopping the filament feed. Before it pulls it back to move if that makes sense.

I raised the feed gear/wheel up so it's on a fresh area.

I'm a print noob....
Click to expand...
When mine starts doing that I replace the nozzle and that usually clears up all my problems
 
Have you tried a different spool? I was having trouble with some matte black around Christmas. It was only a single spool, the other spool same brand and color was fine. Tried drying nothing seemed to help, it would under extrude randomly causing prints to fail.
 
00nissanguy said:
When mine starts doing that I replace the nozzle and that usually clears up all my problems
Click to expand...
I'll have to try that next week. Printer is at my shop.

Clunk noise
 
Pocahontas said:
Have you tried a different spool? I was having trouble with some matte black around Christmas. It was only a single spool, the other spool same brand and color was fine. Tried drying nothing seemed to help, it would under extrude randomly causing prints to fail.
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I used a glow in the dark spool print before. Pretty sure that stuff SUCKS. It feels rough off the roll.
 
Java230 said:
I'll have to try that next week. Printer is at my shop.

Clunk noise
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That's definitely losing steps. Its clogging up at the hotend. What exact model printer is it?
 
YZRider said:
That's definitely losing steps. Its clogging up at the hotend. What exact model printer is it?
Click to expand...
Time to upgrade to a dual gear drive. Only one side of your drive has teeth. Here is a cheap one I have used that works great!.

Look closely at your bowden tube when its clunking, you will see your filament jumping back and forth. Your extruder stepper is over driving the filament. That causes the clunking and also will cause your drive teeth to spin out on the filament. Calibrate your extruder stepper.
 
Tinstar said:
Time to upgrade to a dual gear drive. Only one side of your drive has teeth. Here is a cheap one I have used that works great!.

Look closely at your bowden tube when its clunking, you will see your filament jumping back and forth. Your extruder stepper is over driving the filament. That causes the clunking and also will cause your drive teeth to spin out on the filament. Calibrate your extruder stepper.
Click to expand...
So plugged or not hot enough? Causes over driving?
 
Java230 said:
So plugged or not hot enough? Causes over driving?
Click to expand...
No, over driving is caused by the extruder stepper motor being out of calibration and pushing more filament than commanded.

You could turn the heat down enough or have clogs that do cause missed steps or will cause the filament drive wheels to spin out.

The extruder stepper motor calibration is a separate issue.

My creality machines were all off on the order of about 10% short or under-extruding. ie they would meter out about 90 mm of filament on a 100 mm command. Not terribly out but once I calibrated the steppers, print quality went way up.
 
Tinstar said:
No, over driving is caused by the extruder stepper motor being out of calibration and pushing more filament than commanded.

You could turn the heat down enough or have clogs that do cause missed steps or will cause the filament drive wheels to spin out.

The extruder stepper motor calibration is a separate issue.

My creality machines were all off on the order of about 10% short or under-extruding. ie they would meter out about 90 mm of filament on a 100 mm command. Not terribly out but once I calibrated the steppers, print quality went way up.
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Cleaned the hot end and trimmed the bowden tube, it was nasty at the end. Kinda sticky crap in it.

Running a print now with the same filament at 210. It seemed to do well on the bridge test there (before cleaning). No more clunking.
 
These worked great.

Can't get the smell out though.
 

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Java230 said:
nope. But its gone again?
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Iv had issues with mine if I don't seat it that way it pushes filament between the tube n nozzle n will cause the clicking. I feel your pain though, probably took me off and on a year to get it figured out and dialed in that I can have a print without the clicking/jama
 
I'm still making mostly knickknacks and stuff with my printer. My wife works in an ASD classroom, so for valentine's day yesterday I made a plateful of heart spinners for her to give to the kids, and some earrings for her coworkers, and a set of rose earring for her.

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