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I HATE PONIES said:
I cannot get the multiple Legos to print.

If I put more than one on the bed it will smear and then ball up a bunch of material and ruin the whole thing.

It will print the single just fine with all of the same settings.:eek:

Driving me crazy.
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Lots of things can cause multiple prints to fail. A single print is usually in the middle of the bed and stays nice and warm while printing. Multiple prints with some closer to the edge can cause one to break loose from the bed and then ruin the others. The bed usually isn't uniformly heated across its surface.

Nozzle and bed temp?

What's the ambient temp in the room? Are there any drafts in the room?

Rig up a cardboard wall about 1 foot high around the printer to keep heat in and drafts out. I had a lot of problems with drafts hitting the print bed when I first started.

Start looking at enclosures for your printer. They aren't expensive and will really help.

Hang in there, you will get it sorted.
 
I HATE PONIES said:
I cannot get the multiple Legos to print.

If I put more than one on the bed it will smear and then ball up a bunch of material and ruin the whole thing.

It will print the single just fine with all of the same settings.:eek:

Driving me crazy.
Click to expand...
Iv had that same issue with mine. Always came down to the retraction settings. I run mine at 5 retractions in 5mm and 45mm retraction speed amd that helped a lot but will occasionally get stringing between parts
 
I HATE PONIES said:
I cannot get the multiple Legos to print.

If I put more than one on the bed it will smear and then ball up a bunch of material and ruin the whole thing.

It will print the single just fine with all of the same settings.:eek:

Driving me crazy.
Click to expand...

Is this over a glass bed?
 

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NGL I'm loving this built in timelapse shit. Also happy I went for the Max with the 300mm cube print space.
13hr print in 11 sec:
 
Whats your Z offset? The nozzle maybe a bit too far from the print bed on the first layer. Z offset should be about the thickness of a sheet of paper or about .2mm.

215/60 are PLA numbers, right? Up your nozzle temp to 220 and bed temp to 65.

Assuming a clean print bed (no greasy pizza fingers), glue stick on the bed (looks like you have some on there) and heat will make the print stick.

Walking by it can be enough draft to ruin a big print. Get a cardboard box and put over the printer then try the multi print again.

If you want to really dial in your printer here is the way. Teaching Tech's 3d printer calibration page.
 
rugger

sent email with pics of printed part.

Your free to post the pics if you want.
 
Here y'all go. Couple of pics and the setup. Looks great.

Tinstar
Not sure if you noticed the little recess on the bottom. I've needed that on prints to pop it off the plate more easily.
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20240131_132555[1].jpg

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I saw that, thought it might be an indexing relief to mount it. :homer:

Current size in inches is x = 3.46, y = 2.98, z = 2.85.

Is that the correct size? I did go back in the thread and see that you mentioned 3" cubed. Just want to make sure.
 
Tinstar said:
I saw that, thought it might be an indexing relief to mount it. :homer:

Current size in inches is x = 3.46, y = 2.98, z = 2.85.

Is that the correct size? I did go back in the thread and see that you mentioned 3" cubed. Just want to make sure.
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That's correct. Yep still about 3" cubed.
 
I will get them printing!

They are done and ready to ship.

Pic of them on your email.

Edit: On the way!
 
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My son picked up an ender 3 v2 for cheap.. I guess there's reasons why it was cheap.

I came up with an idea to print some dividers for my toolbox drawers, man, this sucks. I've spent more time getting things to happen than I wanted. It's turned into it's own little hobby trying to get this thing to do anything reasonably decent. I really didn't want another hobby.. I just want to print stuff.

So now I'm balls deep in printing the things to fix the printer so I can get back to printing the things I wanted to print in the first place, hopefully. I have to go look at it and make sure it's still printing before I go to bed.
 
Ummduh said:
My son picked up an ender 3 v2 for cheap.. I guess there's reasons why it was cheap.

I came up with an idea to print some dividers for my toolbox drawers, man, this sucks. I've spent more time getting things to happen than I wanted. It's turned into it's own little hobby trying to get this thing to do anything reasonably decent. I really didn't want another hobby.. I just want to print stuff.

So now I'm balls deep in printing the things to fix the printer so I can get back to printing the things I wanted to print in the first place, hopefully. I have to go look at it and make sure it's still printing before I go to bed.
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Ender 3's really brought 3d printing to the masses.

There are better options now days with the associated higher price.
 
Awesome!:beer: What filament did you use? How about a pic of the bulldozer knob?

It may seem like a simple knob but the fact that a person can 3d print stuff like this is pretty cool!

I drew and printed these plank spacers last night for a shelving project in my shop. No running around to stores looking for the right spacer.

20240208_092506[1].jpg
 
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Just found this thread, tried a larger print on the Ender 3, seems it got too deep, the upper half of the filament is really weak, almost fluffy feeling., I am guessing not enough heat from the bed? The part was ~1.25" tall.
 
Tinstar said:
Awesome!:beer: What filament did you use? How about a pic of the bulldozer knob?

It may seem like a simple knob but the fact that a person can 3d print stuff like this is pretty cool!

I drew and printed these plank spacers last night for a shelving project in my shop. No running around to stores looking for the right spacer.
Click to expand...
1707409841842.png

I used what was in the printer, PLA (?)
I did it for more of a proof of concept, it is actually pretty solid, so I will tighten up the thread depth a little on the next one, figured Id throw some paint on there to keep the UV off for a bit and see how long before they come off
 
Just had my first printer show up. Went with the Bambu X1 Carbon with AMS, It's a tool for my business so at least it was a business expense.

I want to use it mainly for prototyping product to see look and feel of something before machining stuff, but as I did more research I will use it to add more plastic parts to my products and hopefully get busy enough to need a small print farm to keep up.

I use solidworks which works for what I will mainly be using, but was curious what people use to create the neat fancy models for the flexible toys and stuff? I may end up making my kids more stuff then I thought :laughing:

First jobs will be tool organizing stuff for end mills and collets.
 
Pook said:
Just had my first printer show up. Went with the Bambu X1 Carbon with AMS, It's a tool for my business so at least it was a business expense.

I want to use it mainly for prototyping product to see look and feel of something before machining stuff, but as I did more research I will use it to add more plastic parts to my products and hopefully get busy enough to need a small print farm to keep up.

I use solidworks which works for what I will mainly be using, but was curious what people use to create the neat fancy models for the flexible toys and stuff? I may end up making my kids more stuff then I thought :laughing:

First jobs will be tool organizing stuff for end mills and collets.
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you will discover that your kids will invent every gadget under the sun for the house
I don't know how many gizmos we have, some are actually really handy
 
I've been tasked with making wedding beach theme party stuff. First up is a prototype Table Number. The base is supposed to represent sand - i printed it with fuzzy skin and tan pla. Overall, the first attempt at adding tabs and holes turned out decent, I do need to work on sizing a little bit. Tree was printed using copper silk PLA+ that I have on hand, pretty sure my daughter will want a different color. I also have to remember to turn fuzzy skin off when printing the tree, and making sure it is face down when printed so it is a little smoother.

good thing it is a small wedding...

original_bde33c9f-f782-419c-a56f-78d3ec293b3a_20240206_222022.jpg
 
Pook said:
I use solidworks which works for what I will mainly be using, but was curious what people use to create the neat fancy models for the flexible toys and stuff? I may end up making my kids more stuff then I thought :laughing:
Click to expand...
I've not tried it myself but Blender seems to be the go to for that sort of stuff.

Or just cheat like I do:flipoff2:

Cinderwing3D | Digital STL Designs & 3D Prints

www.cinderwing3d.com www.cinderwing3d.com

cults3d.com

angeljacobofigueroa

Repository of 3D printable designs shared by angeljacobofigueroa, designer from Cults, the 3D printing platform.
cults3d.com cults3d.com

cults3d.com

FlexiFactory

Repository of 3D printable designs shared by FlexiFactory, designer from Cults, the 3D printing platform.
cults3d.com cults3d.com
 
OK question time.

I printed a print I have done before, but different PLA this time. The print is "spongy". Last time I used a straight black from Hatchbox. I got a different brand this time, is a red/black silk color, is it just crap?

Bed is set to 70, end is 220
 
Silk is a little harder to print, but not much different. It will almost always need a different extruder temp than regular PLA.

Ideall you should do a temp tower with every new spool or lot, but at the very least every new brand/type. They all have a different ideal print temp
 
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