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The 3D printer thread

Powder coated lead. I don’t know why baby blue is so popular, I think it looks dumb. I use hi tek something green. Has a nice metallic shimmer.
.mil use a blue like that on practice rounds/bombs so maybe some idiots idea of making the rounds appear inert, or someone got a stonking deal on a load of surplus blue 🤷‍♂️
 
How much is a decent “starter” printer?
~$200 will get you an Ender 3 with a CR Touch probe.

Anycube and Creality have a few <$200 options. Second hand and refurbished vanilla Ender 3s are around $100.
 
How much is a decent “starter” printer?

I assume you don’t have any experience, go with a bambu lab printer. I did the whole ender 3 thing and got a month or so out of it then had nothing but problems. 6 months and 300 or more prints on my p1s and nothing bad to say about it. It is a set it and forget it. Only time it seems to mess up is when slicer settings are wrong.

What about pet VS this "tough pla"?

I watched a vid where a guy made a press brake tool out of it and it survived rather well.

I don't know a thing about pet

I don’t know if you can get pet alone, petg is what I usually see for sale could probably use petg cf if durably is a concern.
 
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I assume you don’t have any experience, go with a bambu lab printer. I did the whole ender 3 thing and got a month or so out of it then had nothing but problems. 6 months and 300 or more prints on my p1s and nothing bad to say about it. It is a set it and forget it. Only time it seems to mess up is when slicer settings are wrong.



I don’t know if you can get pet alone, petg is what I usually see for sale could probably use petg cf if durably is a concern.
Correct. None at all. I see a bunch of neat stuff getting printed and I would like to buy one to make useless things instead of buying them 😄
 
How much is a decent “starter” printer?
You can buy a Kingroon KP3S Pro on sale for $125. People are going to shit on it, but I have one running off of Klipper that spits out perfect prints. It has a direct drive extruder, filament runout senor and linear rails in two of the axis. If you're just going to print small stuff it doesn't need a bed probe. After switching out the bed springs with silicone spacers I haven't had to re-level the bed it months so I'm never going to bother with putting a bed probe on it. I find what I need to print, slice it and send it to the printer. I also have an Ender 3 running off a Sonic Pad that also prints fine, but if I were to do it now I'd just buy the Ender 3 V3 KE with Klipper already on it, or the V3 SE ($200), and be done. Yea, the Bambu printers are nice and all but if you're just going to be printing random shit in PLA or PET-G, and not in some filament that needs an enclosure, I don't see the need to spend that much.
 
^

That’s true but once you start printing you are going to wish your printer was bigger and more capable.

I routinely wish my p1s was 50% larger. A 24x24x24 or similar would be perfect for 99% of use I think.

A1 mini is down to $250 I would look at that before an ender 3. I would also look at a used bambu p1 or p1s they often come up and I think they are pretty indestructible.
 
^

That’s true but once you start printing you are going to wish your printer was bigger and more capable.

I routinely wish my p1s was 50% larger. A 24x24x24 or similar would be perfect for 99% of use I think.

A1 mini is down to $250 I would look at that before an ender 3. I would also look at a used bambu p1 or p1s they often come up and I think they are pretty indestructible.
Yep. I’m anxiously awaiting a larger format machine from Bambu.
 
Decided to prototype a part on the 3-D printer yesterday afternoon before loading it into the milling machine. Good thing I did it, one is not like the other.

IMG_8250.jpeg
Awesome. I think 3d printing prototypes is an often-overlooked use of 3d printing. That has helped me out on several projects lately. (plasma table water tank and front winch mount)
 
Having a weird graining issue on infill, abs, 270c extruder, 100c bed. Anyone have any ideas? Might not be a problem but it’s a day and a half print so figured I’d ask.

IMG_7888.jpeg
 
Having a weird graining issue on infill, abs, 270c extruder, 100c bed. Anyone have any ideas? Might not be a problem but it’s a day and a half print so figured I’d ask.

IMG_7888.jpeg
What printer? the webcam is kinda awesome....
 
What printer? the webcam is kinda awesome....

Bambu p1s

X1c also has other features that will stop it if it detects print moving or it starting to Bro’s nest.


I believe I found the problem, somehow it was set to a .2mm nozzle not .4mm.

Standard view from the mobile app.

IMG_7891.jpeg
 
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Yep, that will do it.

That said, don’t use grid infill. I know it’s the default setting but it’s generally not the best pattern to use for several reasons. My default infill pattern is gyroid. But I’ll use triangle or honeycomb for stuff that I need to be strong. The funky starburst looking pattern once in a while for sun catchers so it looks like glass.
 
Printed 10/22 coming together. Need to reprint the stock as it had a weird layer that didn't look like it printed and immediately snapped there :shaking: Just glued it back together for now.

Haven't finished putting it together yet as waiting on a few parts to finish.

Barrel, bolt, trigger housing and cross pins are off the shelf parts. Receiver, chassis, stock, and grip are printed.

Filament for the chassis was some weird 2 color stuff I ordered on accident. It is literally half green/half black. The other side of the gun is a lot darker.

PXL_20240504_201952507.jpg
 
Having a weird graining issue on infill, abs, 270c extruder, 100c bed. Anyone have any ideas? Might not be a problem but it’s a day and a half print so figured I’d ask.

I had an issue like this recently. It would print grainy for a layer or two then be fine.
Turned out that there was a little extra friction in the filament feed system, so if the spool had any extra resistance it wouldn't feed enough material. I needed to replace the bowden tube on my Ender 3 and got a dual gear drive extruder. Printing better than new now.

Before I fixed it, I was really eyeing up the Sovol SV07, but dang the SV08 looks nice!!

My son in 3rd grade has started a business selling 3d printed trinkets and models to his schoolmates. He's made enough to start buying his own filament.
 
Yep, that will do it.

That said, don’t use grid infill. I know it’s the default setting but it’s generally not the best pattern to use for several reasons. My default infill pattern is gyroid. But I’ll use triangle or honeycomb for stuff that I need to be strong. The funky starburst looking pattern once in a while for sun catchers so it looks like glass.

I’ll use small grid on small flat things and the big grid for more blocky stuff, they seem to print fastest while using the same or less material than the otheres.

I’ve also used the lightning infill on stuff but it ends up being extremely weak on anything bigger than 3 or 4 inches or with large flat sides.
 
Printed 10/22 coming together. Need to reprint the stock as it had a weird layer that didn't look like it printed and immediately snapped there :shaking: Just glued it back together for now.

Haven't finished putting it together yet as waiting on a few parts to finish.

Barrel, bolt, trigger housing and cross pins are off the shelf parts. Receiver, chassis, stock, and grip are printed.

Filament for the chassis was some weird 2 color stuff I ordered on accident. It is literally half green/half black. The other side of the gun is a lot darker.

PXL_20240504_201952507.jpg
Can that stock be found on the Odd Sea? That is badass looking.
 
I think some people on here have 3d scanners.

Are the cheap ones worthwhile, or should I find a service to ship something to for scanning?

How to they work? Can you scan a part, then easily modify it in a CAD program?

I want to make a part based off this thing, but different, I want it to have a "pocket" on the inside, instead of the hole. I could probably figure it out from scratch, but a file to start from would be easier, as there are lots of radiuses, and the whole thing is a little convex

20240508_091707.jpg
 
I think some people on here have 3d scanners.

Are the cheap ones worthwhile, or should I find a service to ship something to for scanning?

How to they work? Can you scan a part, then easily modify it in a CAD program?

I want to make a part based off this thing, but different, I want it to have a "pocket" on the inside, instead of the hole. I could probably figure it out from scratch, but a file to start from would be easier, as there are lots of radiuses, and the whole thing is a little convex

20240508_091707.jpg
I think austin was out scanning his whole truck or something with one not long ago
 
Shot the printed 10/22 today. Goes bang. Just shot off my porch at a random tree, so no idea on accuracy.

Ran about 30 rounds and the only issue is the bolt hangs just as it moves forward enough to catch the next round from the mag.

So it is currently like a semi auto bolt action as it needs a slight tap after every shot to load the next round :laughing:

The bolt wouldn't even move before, I just sat here watching a movie and cycling the bolt by hand over and over so it is much better now, just needs some more work.

Threaded insert for the grip pulled out. Lots of leverage on the grip due to the front end weight with the bull barrel. Should have gotten a tapered or pistol length. Probably still will if i find a deal on one.

First time printing TPU for the butt pad. Neat stuff. Had to slow way down on speed as it was pushing out the side of the extruder when I tried it with the default Cura TPU settings.

edit also just came across this website of a guy assembling all the 22lr based files he can. Print-a-22 – The top collection of 3d printable 22 caliber firearms. Print all of your dream guns to life.

PXL_20240509_200205466.jpg
 
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Shot the printed 10/22 today. Goes bang. Just shot off my porch at a random tree, so no idea on accuracy.

Ran about 30 rounds and the only issue is the bolt hangs just as it moves forward enough to catch the next round from the mag.

So it is currently like a semi auto bolt action as it needs a slight tap after every shot to load the next round :laughing:

The bolt wouldn't even move before, I just sat here watching a movie and cycling the bolt by hand over and over so it is much better now, just needs some more work.

Threaded insert for the grip pulled out. Lots of leverage on the grip due to the front end weight with the bull barrel. Should have gotten a tapered or pistol length. Probably still will if i find a deal on one.

First time printing TPU for the butt pad. Neat stuff. Had to slow way down on speed as it was pushing out the side of the extruder when I tried it with the default Cura TPU settings.

edit also just came across this website of a guy assembling all the 22lr based files he can. Print-a-22 – The top collection of 3d printable 22 caliber firearms. Print all of your dream guns to life.

PXL_20240509_200205466.jpg
Freaking cool looking. And TPU is a bitch to use, but super rewarding, as you found out. That stuff is TOUGH.
 
made this on solid works for a buddy and he printed it for his buggy shock res. he plans on using two clamps per res.
one side 1.75" for tubing side and res side is 2"

fun project. and glad to see a idea on a phone call was able to be used. good times for sure..

he printed in petg.

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