The 3D printer thread

[OHV Wildcat]

Got some nice Christmas ornaments printed out.

 

[Tinstar]

Printed out the winch mount I'm making for my truck to get a better idea of how it looks. Its too cool that the same Fusion 360 file can either be cut on the plasma table and welded up or printed on the X1C. I did take the liberty of joining the plates so it would print as one piece.

Planning on making a couple of different designs on the front and side plates then print them out to see what looks best.

Here's where I'm at on the actual build.

 

[Firstram]

Make the sides high enough to cut glove size handle holes!

 

[Donk]

Looking to upgrade,
Any thoughts on the K1Max Vs a P1S with AMS?

 

[dwygrsshpr]

Question here to troubleshoot a print.

It's not a large piece (figure about full hand-sized). When I print it at 15% infil, it comes out just fine and dandy - very accurate. But I'd like it to be 100% infil. It's not stringing, but the layers seem to be sliding around and/or warping...

What kind of parameters should I be looking at?

Temps seem find, but maybe speed? extrusion rates? I am slicing with Creality Slicer 1.2.3 (seems to work the best with my Creality Pro 10S).

I reimported the gcodes to see if I could tell you the parameters for each print, but Creality Slicer only remembers your last inputs.

Perhaps I need to figure out how to use Prusaslicer or Ulitmaker Cura. Last time I tried either, they completely bonked on the print bed. User Error I am sure!

Thanks in advance.

 

[Chkn]

My uneducated guess would be 15% infill allows more cooling for the part where 100% traps more heat. May look into adjusting the fan speed in the print settings.

Generic article but is somewhat relevant:

3D Printer Fan – Do I Really Need One?

3D printer fans: You know they're there, but you might not know why. In this quick, simple guide, we'll explain each kind of 3D printer fan and what it's used for in our beloved machines.

all3dp.com

 

[SomeGuyFromOlympia]

If it is for nothing more than looks, I print at 10%
cheaper/faster

 

[kf4zht]

Question here to troubleshoot a print.

It's not a large piece (figure about full hand-sized). When I print it at 15% infil, it comes out just fine and dandy - very accurate. But I'd like it to be 100% infil. It's not stringing, but the layers seem to be sliding around and/or warping...

What kind of parameters should I be looking at?

Temps seem find, but maybe speed? extrusion rates? I am slicing with Creality Slicer 1.2.3 (seems to work the best with my Creality Pro 10S).

I reimported the gcodes to see if I could tell you the parameters for each print, but Creality Slicer only remembers your last inputs.

Perhaps I need to figure out how to use Prusaslicer or Ulitmaker Cura. Last time I tried either, they completely bonked on the print bed. User Error I am sure!

Thanks in advance.

100% infill needs your extruder flow calcs to be spot on - Extruder ratios, volumetric stuff, all of it. No room for expansion.

 

[dwygrsshpr]

If it is for nothing more than looks, I print at 10%
cheaper/faster

Part needs to be structural.

100% infill needs your extruder flow calcs to be spot on - Extruder ratios, volumetric stuff, all of it. No room for expansion.

I can play around but I am unfamiliar with what you're describing with regards to a hobby level printer. I understand the words, but I don't understand the application. What is the definition of "extruder ratio"? Also, "volumetric stuff" is a rather expansive term.

Just looking for more inputs to fuck around with, so no offense.

I'm also thinking I need an enclosure. Little barbie bits or toys for my daughter come out fine, but when I want something real, I spend way too much time on wasted parts that took a 24hr grow.

Also note, throwing the scraps into the woodstove is probably not the best way to dispose. They do burn, but the stove better be hot!

 

[spork]

I'd take a chance at printing slower if it's a cooling issue that should give the part a little more time to cool. What layer height are you printing at also?

 

[YZRider]

Part needs to be structural.



I can play around but I am unfamiliar with what you're describing with regards to a hobby level printer. I understand the words, but I don't understand the application. What is the definition of "extruder ratio"? Also, "volumetric stuff" is a rather expansive term.

Just looking for more inputs to fuck around with, so no offense.

I'm also thinking I need an enclosure. Little barbie bits or toys for my daughter come out fine, but when I want something real, I spend way too much time on wasted parts that took a 24hr grow.

Also note, throwing the scraps into the woodstove is probably not the best way to dispose. They do burn, but the stove better be hot!

Stepover depends on line width. If your printer extrudes more than the slicer thinks, there is nowhere for the excess material to go. Less material extruded and you wont get a good bond line to line. You tune that with extrusion ratio/multiplier, or in the printer settings. I'm not a big fan of Cura, but you can make it work. Prusaslicer would be the way to go if it works with your printer.

 

[spaceman]

Just printed this overnight. It took a little bit to get it together and working (all the gars need to be 100% snapped into place, and the Final Gear Assembly should be snapped into the cap before sliding the cap on. Spins freely now, but needs some oil.

Just started the print of the spinner ring, will update once it is all put together.

Toroidal Launcher - High RPM launcher featuring compact planetary gearbox by Brent Peterson

makerworld.com

 

[Tinstar]

Here's the next version of the winch plate. Note the different handle designs. Open handle is to prevent a clown from ignoring the giant pintle in front or the two large tow hooks and hooking a tow rope to the handle. Thoughts on which is "best"? Bacon?

 

[Firstram]

The open handle could be a good idea. How many clowns will be using your portable winch though?

 

[Provience]

open handle looks backwards

then it would double as a quick and easy hook stowage point

 

[OHV Wildcat]

That open handle would have to be made out of some stout stuff. Plus it seems like you’d jab the fuck out of yourself with it.

 

[Chkn]

Fixed the 99 cent toy my son broke. 🤣

 

[Tinstar]

Clowns seem to congregate at the critical areas.

I'm going with the closed loop and invest in some clown-be-gone.

Edit: Latest version. Handles and fairlead guards added.

 

[Pocahontas]

What is everyone using for creating and editing models? I’ve been using tinkercad and it keeps crashing and being clunky with not that much information, less than 200mb flies.

 

[Chkn]

What is everyone using for creating and editing models? I’ve been using tinkercad and it keeps crashing and being clunky with not that much information, less than 200mb flies.

Onshape. Onshape | Product Development Platform
Browser based and most similar to Solid Works.

 

[Provience]

What is everyone using for creating and editing models? I’ve been using tinkercad and it keeps crashing and being clunky with not that much information, less than 200mb flies.

fusion 360

 

[frank c]

Printed the fertility idol from Raiders Of The Lost Ark. Why pay Disney for one?

 

[ndsgr]

Finished the Voron2.4. My old printer wasn't enclosed, so ABS was kind of a challenge. This thing prints ABS better than my old printer did PLA. With the bed fans, I can get to 60°C inside.

 

[Tinstar]

Awesome!

Specs?
Build volume
Hours to build
Approximate cost
Major components

TIA

 

[ndsgr]

It's 350x350x350. I haven't pushed any speed yet, but I exceeded the initial volumetric speed test with no loss in quality. The hotend is a Rapido V2 HF.

I don't know if you're familiar with Voron, but it's an open source, community driven project. It's not plug 'n play - really more if you enjoy the hobby, not just printing stuff. Some companies make kits, which make it so you don't have to spend days on McMaster, Digikey and AliExpress. Mine was a kit from LDO - more expensive, but you know where the money went in assembly. The kits don't come with the printed parts. The complete BOM and .stl files are available online.

Total build time was around 35 hours. I was surprised since it's not my first 3d printer build - figured it would be done in a weekend. That said, I really took my time and enjoyed to process, which is why I went this route vs something like Bambu in the first place.

Total cost, with "print it forward (PIF)" printed parts was around $1,500. PIF means I paid a community approved guy a little above cost to print ABS parts for me. My old printer may have done it, but it would have been painful, long, and likely wouldn't have turned out as nice.

 

[ndsgr]

Kids have been digging the vapor smoothed toys. Same filament, one just spent a couple of hours with an acetone soaked paper towel.

 

[spaceman]

Kids have been digging the vapor smoothed toys. Same filament, one just spent a couple of hours with an acetone soaked paper towel.

ABS, correct? or PLA (seems doubtful).

thx.

 

[ndsgr]

ABS. I think you can do it with PLA, but requires something more exotic than acetone.

 

[Bacho]

Printed an odyssey battery adapter. ~34 hours on my sidewinder x1. Longest print so do far IIRC.

 

[I HATE PONIES]

Anyone familiar with an anycubic kobra 2 pro?

I am having an issue with getting a file from fusion 360 to my thumb drive to the printer.

It will save to the thumb drive but the u disk on the printer says empty table when I plug it in to the printer.