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The 3D printer thread

ProjectTwin said:
I um...managed to get in on the Kickstarter for the Elegoo OrangeStorm Giga. :homer:

www.elegoo.com

OrangeStorm Giga

ELEGOO specializes in the research, development, and production of the most quality & affordable 3D printers, Arduino-based STEM & robotic kits, making technology easy-to-access for all the makers around the world.
www.elegoo.com www.elegoo.com

Click to expand...

I have a 500mm
I thought that thing was huge:laughing:
 
SomeGuyFromOlympia said:
I have a 500mm
I thought that thing was huge:laughing:
Click to expand...

Yeah, my Kobra 2 Max is 420x420x500.

That fucker is 800x800x1000. :laughing:

I can enclose that thing and print large interior parts in ASA/ABS.

For the Kickstarter price I HAD to jump on it. Same price as the X1C with AMS.

As long as it runs as nice as my Kobra 2 Max I'll be absolutely happy with it. So glad that big bastard isn't a bed slinger. :lmao:
 
Donk said:
Got fed up with bits paper and went with a dti instead :flipoff2:
PXL_20230805_142043465.jpg
Click to expand...

You could put Klipper on that printer and let it help you level the bed using the ABL probe. I bought SonicPad for my Ender 3 and Inovato Quadra for two of my other printers. It’s easy to do and will help you tune the printer for way faster printing and control.
 
Behemoth13 said:
You could put Klipper on that printer and let it help you level the bed using the ABL probe. I bought SonicPad for my Ender 3 and Inovato Quadra for two of my other printers. It’s easy to do and will help you tune the printer for way faster printing and control.
Click to expand...
Any links to the process? I fitted some silicone blocks yesterday in place of the bed level springs to hopefully stiffen things up.
 
Donk said:
Any links to the process? I fitted some silicone blocks yesterday in place of the bed level springs to hopefully stiffen things up.
Click to expand...
Those will definitely help with keeping it level. I really haven’t had to adjust mine since I put them on my Ender 3 and KP3S Pro back in the spring. Klipper, once configured, will move your bed probe over each bed adjusting screw, takes a measurement and then will tell you how many turns, clockwise or counterclockwise, to turn the bed screw to get the bed as level as possible.

First, I am by no means a pro at running or modifying Klipper, all my knowledge is from just trial and error, with the Quadra, but to me it’s worth it. Klipper is absolutely free and does more than the Marlin software that comes on the Ender 3. They do have a newer Ender 3 that has Klipper on it from the factory but I don’t have one so no clue how easy it is to use.

Cheapest way would to get into Klipper would be to go the T95 box route which can be bought off Amazon. I think I paid $35 for mine though I have not put Klipper on it for my third printer yet.
Use this guide: Tutorial: T95 Mini TV Box Klipper Install for the T95 box. Make sure to get the exact model it says to buy as there are two different versions evidently. Or on YouTube look up the channel PrintsLeo3D and he has a video on the Inovato Quadra box, which is the exact same thing as the T95 TV box, just repurposed as a mini pc for ham radio and other uses. They put a version of Linux onto it. I used his video to put Klipper on the Quadra box and then on my Kingroon KP3S Pro printer and it’s worked without any real issues since other than me just trying different Macros to make it even better. You can also use an old desktop or laptop. You install a version of Linux on the computer or laptop and go from there. I tried that route on a laptop but could never get the WiFi working on it in Linux so gave up. Either of these have enough computing power to run two printers at one time. Also if the laptop/pc reboots for some reason it will stop your print.

Easiest way would to be buy the Creality Sonic Pad but it’s around $160, or was when I bought it last year. (Just checked and it’s down to $111 right now on Amazon). Damn it! Anyways, it can control up to four printers at once and can be used as a standalone touchscreen controller or WiFi connect into it from your computer through a web interface. Which is nice as you can slice your print, send it to it over WiFi and print it all from your computer. Hell, I use my cellphone if I’m in another part of the house to see how the print is going. The Sonic Pad has Klipper profiles already loaded onto it and when setting it up you just select the printer you have from a list and it will create a file that you load onto the SD card for your printer and install it. Then the Pad controls the main board that’s built into your printer over a USB cord that you just leave hooked to the Pad. Also there’s a port on it for a webcam so you can watch your printer from another part of your house. There is also Obico service you can put on your phone and control your printer from anywhere. You have to pay monthly for that though.

The Marlin software on your printer works fine, I used it for a couple of months but got tired of loading a file onto the SD card, over to the printer, load it up bullshit. Though you can use a USB cable from your computer plugged into your printer and use OctoPrint and transfer files and control the printer that way. I used OctoPrint on my KP3S when I first got it but once you go to Klipper I don’t see any reason to go back to anything else. Sorry this is so long winded but I just want to pass on what I’ve tried and learned hoping it helps someone else.
 
Jesus...I'm going to hate getting back into 3D printing.:laughing:

I was on a phone call yesterday (spent damn near six hours on the phone - thank fuck for Bluetooth headphones so I can work/talk) and I ended up with an idea for some new parts to sell to the car audio guys. Specifically the guys running Stereo Integrity SIQ series amplifiers.

They're Class AB and the only cooling is conductive cooling via the chassis/heat sink.

On a 6-hour road trip I've had them go into thermal protect.

So, thanks to yesterday/last night's conversation, I drew this up when I got off the phone.

Amp End Cap v2.jpg


Then I ran a test print to check hole placement and tolerances of the hole IDs.

2.jpg


The fit and tolerances were perfect so I decided to run another print with the outer face down so I could get an even, consistent finish on the face of the part.

6.jpg


The 3rd piece was made on a textured plate to give a different surface finish.

1701712828987.png
 
Behemoth13 said:
Those will definitely help with keeping it level. I really haven’t had to adjust mine since I put them on my Ender 3 and KP3S Pro back in the spring. Klipper, once configured, will move your bed probe over each bed adjusting screw, takes a measurement and then will tell you how many turns, clockwise or counterclockwise, to turn the bed screw to get the bed as level as possible.

First, I am by no means a pro at running or modifying Klipper, all my knowledge is from just trial and error, with the Quadra, but to me it’s worth it. Klipper is absolutely free and does more than the Marlin software that comes on the Ender 3. They do have a newer Ender 3 that has Klipper on it from the factory but I don’t have one so no clue how easy it is to use.

Cheapest way would to get into Klipper would be to go the T95 box route which can be bought off Amazon. I think I paid $35 for mine though I have not put Klipper on it for my third printer yet.
Use this guide: Tutorial: T95 Mini TV Box Klipper Install for the T95 box. Make sure to get the exact model it says to buy as there are two different versions evidently. Or on YouTube look up the channel PrintsLeo3D and he has a video on the Inovato Quadra box, which is the exact same thing as the T95 TV box, just repurposed as a mini pc for ham radio and other uses. They put a version of Linux onto it. I used his video to put Klipper on the Quadra box and then on my Kingroon KP3S Pro printer and it’s worked without any real issues since other than me just trying different Macros to make it even better. You can also use an old desktop or laptop. You install a version of Linux on the computer or laptop and go from there. I tried that route on a laptop but could never get the WiFi working on it in Linux so gave up. Either of these have enough computing power to run two printers at one time. Also if the laptop/pc reboots for some reason it will stop your print.

Easiest way would to be buy the Creality Sonic Pad but it’s around $160, or was when I bought it last year. (Just checked and it’s down to $111 right now on Amazon). Damn it! Anyways, it can control up to four printers at once and can be used as a standalone touchscreen controller or WiFi connect into it from your computer through a web interface. Which is nice as you can slice your print, send it to it over WiFi and print it all from your computer. Hell, I use my cellphone if I’m in another part of the house to see how the print is going. The Sonic Pad has Klipper profiles already loaded onto it and when setting it up you just select the printer you have from a list and it will create a file that you load onto the SD card for your printer and install it. Then the Pad controls the main board that’s built into your printer over a USB cord that you just leave hooked to the Pad. Also there’s a port on it for a webcam so you can watch your printer from another part of your house. There is also Obico service you can put on your phone and control your printer from anywhere. You have to pay monthly for that though.

The Marlin software on your printer works fine, I used it for a couple of months but got tired of loading a file onto the SD card, over to the printer, load it up bullshit. Though you can use a USB cable from your computer plugged into your printer and use OctoPrint and transfer files and control the printer that way. I used OctoPrint on my KP3S when I first got it but once you go to Klipper I don’t see any reason to go back to anything else. Sorry this is so long winded but I just want to pass on what I’ve tried and learned hoping it helps someone else.
Click to expand...
I appreciate the in depth reply. I'm a bit of a :homer: when it comes to some of this.
 
Donk said:
I appreciate the in depth reply. I'm a bit of a :homer: when it comes to some of this.
Click to expand...
I am too honestly but I enjoy modifying stuff like most people on here probably do and once I found out about Klipper I had to try it.
 
Black Friday deal on LDO Voron 2.4 350mm kit. Wife was thrilled to have her kitchen invaded for a flat surface. The build plate has some gravity to her - 1cm thick. I'm only about 60 pages in to the 200+ page assembly guide.
1000003105.jpg
1000003130.jpg
 
We're buying a markforged mark 2 at work. All I got to add. I'm sure I'll be spending quite a bit of time figuring it out, I have a LOT of uses for it. We have tons of fingers and grabbers and separators and whatnot that are begging for a custom fit for what we do

markforged.com

Carbon Fiber Composite 3D Printer: Markforged Mark Two

A leading way to make aluminum-strength parts on your desktop — the Mark Two carbon fiber composite 3D printer enables engineers to generate massive value…
markforged.com markforged.com
 
Ummduh said:
We're buying a markforged mark 2 at work. All I got to add. I'm sure I'll be spending quite a bit of time figuring it out, I have a LOT of uses for it. We have tons of fingers and grabbers and separators and whatnot that are begging for a custom fit for what we do

markforged.com

Carbon Fiber Composite 3D Printer: Markforged Mark Two

A leading way to make aluminum-strength parts on your desktop — the Mark Two carbon fiber composite 3D printer enables engineers to generate massive value…
markforged.com markforged.com
Click to expand...
Now I’m gonna have to watch stuff on this. How expensive is this thing, and are those materials/techniques exclusive to it?
 
OHV Wildcat said:
Now I’m gonna have to watch stuff on this. How expensive is this thing, and are those materials/techniques exclusive to it?
Click to expand...
$17,500

www.matterhackers.com

Markforged Mark Two 3D Printer (Gen 2)

The Markforged Mark Two 3D Printer is a professional 3D printer that creates aluminum-strength parts with patented CFR™ (Continuous Fiber Reinforcement) technology straight from your desktop. It is best-in-class for reliability and creates high-strength parts out of a variety of stiff continuous...
www.matterhackers.com www.matterhackers.com
 
P1s with ams is getting here this week. Where are you guys getting your filament from. I got ten different spools with the discount but seems like they fluctuate from 15-30 dollars depending on brand and type. I figuring I’m going to print mostly abs, asa and petg.
 
Tried my hand at printing a 3d picture. Need to work on the quality a bit for the next one since this one came out really stringy
 

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ProjectTwin said:
Yeah, my Kobra 2 Max is 420x420x500.

That fucker is 800x800x1000. :laughing:

I can enclose that thing and print large interior parts in ASA/ABS.

For the Kickstarter price I HAD to jump on it. Same price as the X1C with AMS.

As long as it runs as nice as my Kobra 2 Max I'll be absolutely happy with it. So glad that big bastard isn't a bed slinger. :lmao:
Click to expand...


I may need to play with ABS to recreate some
Hard to find automotive parts for a project.
 
Picked up a P1S combo Friday. Micro Center had the same Black Friday deal that Bambu did but they sold out. They got 5 printers in Thursday and were down to 1 by Friday morning, got there first thing and bought what the salesman thought was the last one. He found two and said if the second was there at the end of the day he was buying it. Signing up for the MC credit card matched the Black Friday deal.

I printed one thing from the SD card in the supplied filament and switched to ABS. Downloading a bunch of files and playing around with the scaling etc. So far so good.
 
Alright, for you guys with a Bambu, I'm getting my ass kicked with painting in Bambu Studio.

I'm at home with a migraine, so it may be something simple.

I'm making a sign that's two colors. The main body color is yellow and I painted the magenta bits in Bambu Studio.

My problem is that for some-odd reason it's taking the painted areas outside the circle and shooting magenta towards the center of the circle.

This bleeds through the yellow with four layers printed above the magenta. Nothing I do in Bambu Studio will correct this. I've tried additional top shell layers in hopes that I would get another layer or two of yellow but no matter what I do, Bambu wants to do this shit when it creates g code.

Why TF is it doing this?

These first two pics was with a grid infill to use less material.
1702417926060.png


1702417909619.png


This last pic shows the issue with the final piece.
1702417978599.png
 
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Provience said:
the bleed through in your final image looks like some sweet shadowing, call it a feature and rock on :flipoff2:
Click to expand...
I was going to say that too. I thought it looked great like that.

but yeah, as you discovered it had to do with how the file was put together.

for complex paint jobs in Bambu studio, I’ve taken to using a graphics tablet with a screen and stylus. Zoom in and use the pen tool on the smallest setting with the stylus to outline the area I want to paint, then flood fill after the area is outlined.
 
92 Green YJ said:
I was going to say that too. I thought it looked great like that.

but yeah, as you discovered it had to do with how the file was put together.

for complex paint jobs in Bambu studio, I’ve taken to using a graphics tablet with a screen and stylus. Zoom in and use the pen tool on the smallest setting with the stylus to outline the area I want to paint, then flood fill after the area is outlined.
Click to expand...

There's nothing in Bambu Studio's paint tools that would've fixed it.
 
Was at a craft fair last weekend (the woman was a vendor there for work) and there was a guy selling prints. The kids wanted these little crabs spiders so bad but had to be reminded that I too can print them.

Haven't touched the printer in almost a year since we moved. Forgot to glue stick the build plate. 12 hours in the trash :shaking:

PXL_20231212_232107840.jpg



Round 2 was fine. Round 3 is cooking now. The woman wants a whole army to give all the kids now so will probably adjust to fit more on at once.


PXL_20231213_225944388.MP.jpg
 
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