The 3D printer thread

[Tinstar]

I have yet to figure out how to get supports to break clean from PETG.

What's your layer height? Should be .2.

I know you said 5 top layers. Try adding a couple of skin layers and see if there is an improvement. Skin layers cleaned up the top for me on a couple of projects.

Some have reported using PLA with some success as a support interface with an IDEX (dual extruder) machines. I tried it using the AMS on the X1 carbon and only got hard take every single thing apart to clear nozzle clogs.

 

[Lee]

I have yet to figure out how to get supports to break clean from PETG.

What's your layer height? Should be .2.

I know you said 5 top layers. Try adding a couple of skin layers and see if there is an improvement. Skin layers cleaned up the top for me on a couple of projects.

Some have reported using PLA with some success as a support interface with an IDEX (dual extruder) machines. I tried it using the AMS on the X1 carbon and only got hard take every single thing apart to clear nozzle clogs.

Initial Layer Height is .2 but Layer Height is .15, should they both be .2?

 

[kf4zht]

What slicer are you using. I had tons of issues with cura supports not wanting to come off and leaving bad finish. Prusaslicer gave me much better results.

Have you done temp towers to make sure you are at the right temp? Whats listed is just a starting point

 

[Lee]

What slicer are you using. I had tons of issues with cura supports not wanting to come off and leaving bad finish. Prusaslicer gave me much better results.

Have you done temp towers to make sure you are at the right temp? Whats listed is just a starting point

I'm using Cura.

If it wasn't already blatantly obvious, I don't know what I'm doing. Everything that I haven't learned from y'all has been from random Google and YouTube searching.

 

[Gots_a_sol]

Something else to check is the arm on the extruder. I had the stock plastic piece on my Ender 5 crack and caused inconsistent prints due to the filament slipping.

 

[Tinstar]

Layer height can be somewhat subjective. I run almost everything at .2 for consistency.

 

[SomeGuyFromOlympia]

I have set it by the book and just keep cramming filament in it

 

[Lee]

You got a book?

 

[92 Green YJ]

I'm Ruth Langmore when it comes to 3D printing.

I was having stringing issues, some Reddit thread said to slow it down, decrease the temp, and increase my retraction speed. Seemed to work.

I've got infill set at 15%, just from googling, the prevailing recommendations are 10-20% infill, so I shot for the middle. I can bump it to 20% if you think that's really my problem.

I’d try a different pattern too. My default is gyroid infill. More strength with less density typically. Also, how many walls and top layers are you set at? That top wall looks awfully thin. I’d add a couple of layers to it personally

 

[92 Green YJ]

I have yet to figure out how to get supports to break clean from PETG.

What's your layer height? Should be .2.

I know you said 5 top layers. Try adding a couple of skin layers and see if there is an improvement. Skin layers cleaned up the top for me on a couple of projects.

Some have reported using PLA with some success as a support interface with an IDEX (dual extruder) machines. I tried it using the AMS on the X1 carbon and only got hard take every single thing apart to clear nozzle clogs.

you have to dial in the support paramaeters. I’ve found if I set top Z height on supports to 0.31 and 0 interface layers supports generally come off clean, even with PETG which is notorious for sticking to itself when it comes to supports.

also, I’ve personally had great luck with PLA to support PETG on my Bambu machines. Again using the support settings I listed above.

 

[Lee]

I’d try a different pattern too. My default is gyroid infill. More strength with less density typically. Also, how many walls and top layers are you set at? That top wall looks awfully thin. I’d add a couple of layers to it personally

5 layers in the photo where its full of holes. I upped it to 6 layers in the last photo where I also calibrated the extrusion. That last print was Gyroid, all previous were Triangle.

 

[ProjectTwin]

I was going to get a X1 Carbon so I could print PET-CF but the print bed isn't big enough.

So...I have one of these on the way so I can print some subwoofer bits.

Anycubic Kobra 2 Max

With a remarkable 500mm/s maximum printing speed and an expansive 88L printing volume, Anycubic Kobra 2 Max surpasses its predecessor, the Anycubic Kobra Max. This upgraded version offers a significantly larger size and faster printing capabilities.

www.anycubic.com

I'm pretty sure I'll have to enclose it to print ABS successfully.

 

[ProjectTwin]

So for you guys printing with ABS, it seems like using a raft would help with deformation and distortion of the part.

Every mention I see of distortion/deformation due to cooling is at the edges of the part on the print bed.

Seems kinda obvious that a raft would eliminate this since the printed part would start a few layers off the bed.

Is there something I'm overlooking or is it really that simple? I haven't seen rafts discussed in regard to ABS deformation.

 

[Pocahontas]

also, I’ve personally had great luck with PLA to support PETG on my Bambu machines. Again using the support settings I listed above.

Thoughts on your bambu printers? Thinking I’m going to pick up the p1p in the next month, just waiting to see if they have any discounts for bf/cm.

Have an ender 3 that got moved to clean by the wife and haven’t been able to get it leveled since. Bambu looks like set and forget for the most part.

 

[Tinstar]

So for you guys printing with ABS, it seems like using a raft would help with deformation and distortion of the part.

Every mention I see of distortion/deformation due to cooling is at the edges of the part on the print bed.

Seems kinda obvious that a raft would eliminate this since the printed part would start a few layers off the bed.

Is there something I'm overlooking or is it really that simple? I haven't seen rafts discussed in regard to ABS deformation.

I have never printed with ABS. I have printed many spools with the similar ASA with success. ASA is one of my favorite filaments.

A raft can help or cure warping on smaller prints. Cura also has a "draft shield" that I have used with a lot of success prior to getting the enclosed Bambu Lab machine. The best bet is an enclosed printer to prevent warping.

From my experience the Bambu Lab machine is far less fiddley. Auto bed level, auto Z offset, auto flow calibration ect and it all works properly. The Bambu Lab machines are a giant step towards making 3D printers an appliance. There not there yet though.

 

[SomeGuyFromOlympia]

So for you guys printing with ABS, it seems like using a raft would help with deformation and distortion of the part.

Every mention I see of distortion/deformation due to cooling is at the edges of the part on the print bed.

Seems kinda obvious that a raft would eliminate this since the printed part would start a few layers off the bed.

Is there something I'm overlooking or is it really that simple? I haven't seen rafts discussed in regard to ABS deformation.

i use a raft every time
I do think it helps the process

 

[92 Green YJ]

Thoughts on your bambu printers? Thinking I’m going to pick up the p1p in the next month, just waiting to see if they have any discounts for bf/cm.

Have an ender 3 that got moved to clean by the wife and haven’t been able to get it leveled since. Bambu looks like set and forget for the most part.

Absolutely love my Bambu machines. I won’t buy another creality machine. I’m up to 4 of them now. An X1C with 2 AMS units for 8 color prints, a P1P with AMS for 4 color prints or multi material prints. And a pair of spool fed P1Ps. They work great, they are super fast, and the print quality is above and beyond anything I’ve gotten out of my creality machines.

that said, I wouldn’t hold my breath on a Black Friday sale on printers. They will probably discount their filaments and maybe parts, but they have yet to discount their actual printers with the exception of the price drop on the P1P ahead of the P1S release.

 

[ProjectTwin]

I have never printed with ABS. I have printed many spools with the similar ASA with success. ASA is one of my favorite filaments.

A raft can help or cure warping on smaller prints. Cura also has a "draft shield" that I have used with a lot of success prior to getting the enclosed Bambu Lab machine. The best bet is an enclosed printer to prevent warping.

From my experience the Bambu Lab machine is far less fiddley. Auto bed level, auto Z offset, auto flow calibration ect and it all works properly. The Bambu Lab machines are a giant step towards making 3D printers an appliance. There not there yet though.

What I'm wanting to print from ABS is too big for the Bambu. That's why I ordered the Anycubic Kobra Max 2. I was hoping the X1E would have a larger print bed and I could use PET-CF. Nope. So...Kobra 2 Max and ABS (or ASA) will have to be how I go.

I just ordered some 2020 extrusion and bits for that as well. Will build an enclosure for the Max 2 to live in.

i use a raft every time
I do think it helps the process

All of the research I've done for ABS I've not seen anyone mention using a raft. They just show images of it warped at the print bed.

 

[Pocahontas]

Absolutely love my Bambu machines. I won’t buy another creality machine. I’m up to 4 of them now. An X1C with 2 AMS units for 8 color prints, a P1P with AMS for 4 color prints or multi material prints. And a pair of spool fed P1Ps. They work great, they are super fast, and the print quality is above and beyond anything I’ve gotten out of my creality machines.

that said, I wouldn’t hold my breath on a Black Friday sale on printers. They will probably discount their filaments and maybe parts, but they have yet to discount their actual printers with the exception of the price drop on the P1P ahead of the P1S release.

There’s a micro center here in town so hopefully they will put them on sale. If not it’s not the end of the world.

Any reason to get the enclosure? I’m planning on getting the ams but I will likely just be printing things for around the house and odds and ends.

 

[92 Green YJ]

There’s a micro center here in town so hopefully they will put them on sale. If not it’s not the end of the world.

Any reason to get the enclosure? I’m planning on getting the ams but I will likely just be printing things for around the house and odds and ends.

Depends on the materials you plan to use mostly. Some are more finnicky than others with drafts and temps than others are. Also some give off some pretty nasty fumes. ABS is one of these that really likes and enclosed machin. PLA and PETG don’t really give a shit.

 

[ProjectTwin]

Kobra Max 2 was delivered today.

Got it assembled and went through leveling and resonance detection then started printing.

My last printer was a Robo 3D which is a bed slinger, but is a dinosaur compared to this thing.

And I know the Bambu guys will see the print speed and say theirs prints faster, but…

I wanted the larger print bed. That’s a plate for the X1C on the bed.

Now to get this stupid thing enclosed and start printing some ABS and ASA with it.

 

[Donk]

I made a thing!
Designed from scratch on Fusion 360.

Just got to make a few more and that should stop the buggers tangling themselves up in the bag

 

[Pocahontas]

Kobra Max 2 was delivered today.

And I know the Bambu guys will see the print speed and say theirs prints faster, but…


I wanted the larger print bed. That’s a plate for the X1C on the bed.

Now to get this stupid thing enclosed and start printing some ABS and ASA with it.

Not just directed at you but I’m looking for the ability to print two different colors minimum of filament at the same time and auto leveling. I don’t need a massive print area but the bigger generally the better, same with the speed don’t care how fast it is if I can set it and forget it for the most part. This list led me to the bambu p1p/p1s but if there’s other options I’m all ears, looking at picking one up before Christmas.

 

[ProjectTwin]

Not just directed at you but I’m looking for the ability to print two different colors minimum of filament at the same time and auto leveling. I don’t need a massive print area but the bigger generally the better, same with the speed don’t care how fast it is if I can set it and forget it for the most part. This list led me to the bambu p1p/p1s but if there’s other options I’m all ears, looking at picking one up before Christmas.

The Bambu printers are killer for multi-color printing. You can print up to 16 colors with the Bambu and their AMS.

Bambu Lab | Unleash Your Creativity with Bambu Lab 3D Printers - Bambu Lab

Bambu Lab builds state-of-the-art desktop 3D printers that break the barriers between the digital and physical worlds. Explore High performance 3D printers on Bambu Lab official website.

bambulab.com

I started a 35-hour print tonight. ABS, 100% infill. 230c nozzle temp, 90c bed temp with no enclosure.

Fingers crossed.

 

[OHV Wildcat]

The Bambu printers are killer for multi-color printing. You can print up to 16 colors with the Bambu and their AMS.

Bambu Lab | Unleash Your Creativity with Bambu Lab 3D Printers - Bambu Lab

Bambu Lab builds state-of-the-art desktop 3D printers that break the barriers between the digital and physical worlds. Explore High performance 3D printers on Bambu Lab official website.

bambulab.com

I started a 35-hour print tonight. ABS, 100% infill. 230c nozzle temp, 90c bed temp with no enclosure.

Fingers crossed.

I’m excited to hear about the results! I haven’t tried ABS yet on my Bambu, since I haven’t enclosed it. If you tell me the enclosure isn’t totally necessary, I’ll try some.

 

[ndsgr]

I'm thinking of getting a larger printer and would like the ability to have toolhead changes or at least use multi-material. I am leaning toward a Voron 2.4 or Trident, but the market is seems to change everyday and I don't really know what to get at this point.

The Bambu printers are impressive, but I don't like being dependent on a company for parts.

Any thoughts?

In the meantime, I am working a toolhead PCB for my franken-printer to clean up wiring. Since I just do this for fun, why not design my own PCB for more money than just buying one?

 

[ProjectTwin]

I’m excited to hear about the results! I haven’t tried ABS yet on my Bambu, since I haven’t enclosed it. If you tell me the enclosure isn’t totally necessary, I’ll try some.

It was a fantastic failure.

Got up this morning to find it had curled at the bed.

Will build an enclosure when the extrusion gets here.

 

[OHV Wildcat]

It was a fantastic failure.

Got up this morning to find it had curled at the bed.

Will build an enclosure when the extrusion gets here.

The obvious answer here is to buy the biggest used electric smoker you can find. Put the heating element on a PID controller, hold the housing at 110 or whatever, and do all your printing on the back porch.

 

[Donk]

PSA for Ender users:
Don't forget to periodically check tighten the screws that hold the hot end onto the print head, or you'll end up with this....

Drove me nuts trying to work out why the hell it was printing weird and no amount of setting tweaking was helping

 

[ProjectTwin]

Putting one stupid robot to work to make the face of a stupid robot to go on another stupid robot.

I started sanding it already, but I'll fill/prime/sand/paint it at some point. If there's any machine in the shop that would tell me to bite it's shiny metal ass, it's that CNC.