Firstram
Well-known member
He really needs to use softer filament to maximize the versatility of his prints
I have a CR-10V2 in a Creality enclosure so maybe I can help. The enclosure was one of the best things I did to have great petg prints.Anyone recommend a more forgiving PETG alternative? Every time I think I've finally got this thing going, it'll bite me in the ass. I want the PETG for heat and UV tolerance.
Overture black PETG filament, Printer is a CR-10V2, it's got a Micro Swiss tool steel extruder nozzle, and some random silicone condom from some 3D Printer outfit, and an EZ Flex magnetic bed from the same place the condom came from. I highly recommend the EZ Flex bed, PETG sticks great! Everything is in a Creality zip up enclosure, not really insulated, but reflective "space blanket" lining.
I can make a really good Benchy. I can start out making great looking parts.
I can't baby sit the thing for 12+ hours, I'll leave it going over night, about 1/2-2/3 through the print, it just decides it doesn't want to anymore. It's like it's bi-polar. It's great or is crap.
I'm using Cura slicer with some tweaked parameters for a 1st Gen CR-10 someone on Reddit shared years ago and their generic PETG profile as I can't find Overture in their list of options.
I've made the following changes and am attempting the print again.
I've moved the spool from the default location on the back of the CR-10 control box, to inside the enclosure attached to the top of the frame sort of like an Ender 3 does. I was suspecting the filament may be catching/dragging on the Velcro slot in the side of the enclosure.
I figured it wouldn't be a bad idea to have the entire spool of PETG inside the enclosure with the heat, I tossed a pair of 9oz clay desiccant packs in the back corner and package taped up the Velcro openings around the control wires after I moved the spool inside the enclosure. I know the zipper isn't air tight, but the Velcro leaves at least a thumb sized opening around either side of the wires without the tape.
I know PETG is notoriously stringy and globby, I can handle that, but my bigger issue is layer adhesion. Starts great, making a beautful part, then randomly, a layer doesn't stick, then another, then another, then layers are peeling, then the extruder is running into the peeled up layers, and filament is just globbing to the extruder.
I have a CR-10V2 in a Creality enclosure so maybe I can help. The enclosure was one of the best things I did to have great petg prints.
If your prints are sticking and there isn't any warping then you have a great start.
First off how long did you dry the filament? What dryer and temp did you use? From my experience if petg isn't dry you are wasting your time. I print right from the heated dryer.
Second, what are your settings? Nozzle temp, bed temp, print speed? Nozzle size? Air temp and humidity in the print room?
Do you have the power recovery turned off on the CR-10?
Start and develop your own Generic Cura Petg profile. No telling what some rando internet whack a doodle has tweaked in that profile.
I'll take a look at your file and see if I can print it if you want. I will also send you the profile I use if you want. I do run .6 nozzles though.
I mostly run polymaker filament with minimal trouble. I have had some issues with overture filament times and generally avoid buying it.
Here is an 18 hr Petg print from a couple weeks ago.
Correct. I’ve got about 5 old glass beds taking up valuable shelf space. I really should toss them one of these daysWhen changing from a glass bed to a magnetic bed, the glass gets removed and isn't retained, is this correct?
I'm anything but experienced with this and appreciate the help.
First glance it looks like the infill density is too low to support the top layer(s). And in general, low speed and high temps will cause more stringing and blobs, even with a higher temp material like PETG.I'm getting pretty frustrated with this stupid CR-10. I'm sure it's the operator but I can't make a usable PETG part with it.
I ran the Overture through the dryer for over 24 hours with a 9oz clay desiccant bag thrown in for good measure. It will give the false sense that it's going to print some stuff great, but once you get that feeling of, "it might work this time," and leave it to do its thing for the next 10+ hours you'll return to garbage.
I kept having craters using the Overture filament, I assumed moisture. Looks like bubbles bursting, but I don't think that's the case. I opened a brand new spool of Polymaker Polylite PETG, fresh from its vacuum sealed bag and into the dryer, and its doing the same thing.
What's causing this surface finish, heat, speed, gremlins?
This is the Overture filament with the adjustments to my original settings above that Tinstar suggested.
This is Polylite with those same settings slightly tweaked. The Polylite was a little stringier than the Overture, so I dropped it to nozzle temp to 240°, dropped sped to 35 mm/s, and increased retraction speed to 30 mm/s. Combing is on with Infill. I also flipped the print over to use less support structure and shave 1.5 hours off the print time.
First glance it looks like the infill density is too low to support the top layer(s). And in general, low speed and high temps will cause more stringing and blobs, even with a higher temp material like PETG.
it's hard to say for certain just based on a picture. but from experience, if i saw that on a print, i'd increase the infill density. also curious, is it only attempting a single layer to create the surface skin on that part? usually there are 2 or 3 passes in alternating directions that way everything gets evened out and gaps are closed tighter.I'm Ruth Langmore when it comes to 3D printing.
I was having stringing issues, some Reddit thread said to slow it down, decrease the temp, and increase my retraction speed. Seemed to work.
I've got infill set at 15%, just from googling, the prevailing recommendations are 10-20% infill, so I shot for the middle. I can bump it to 20% if you think that's really my problem.
Have you calibrated your extruder steps (mm/step?). That looks very similar to an issue I had where the printer was way underextruding.I'm Ruth Langmore when it comes to 3D printing.
I was having stringing issues, some Reddit thread said to slow it down, decrease the temp, and increase my retraction speed. Seemed to work.
I've got infill set at 15%, just from googling, the prevailing recommendations are 10-20% infill, so I shot for the middle. I can bump it to 20% if you think that's really my problem.
it's hard to say for certain just based on a picture. but from experience, if i saw that on a print, i'd increase the infill density. also curious, is it only attempting a single layer to create the surface skin on that part? usually there are 2 or 3 passes in alternating directions that way everything gets evened out and gaps are closed tighter.
Have you calibrated your extruder steps (mm/step?). That looks very similar to an issue I had where the printer was way underextruding.
To test:
Mark the filament about 200mm up from the entrace to the extruder
Warm the hotend and tell the manual control to extrude 100mm
Measure the mark and see if it moved 100mm
If it doesnt figure out how to adjust the extruder steps
I have not. It's plausible this thing is really screwed up.
It crashed bad about 2 years ago, wore grooves in the aluminum bed mount frame from the bind it put itself into and then continued attempting to print for hours. I haven't been able to make a good print with it since, but it was months between the crash and me trying again. I know the filament was old, and the room was cold (HVAC blows right on it) so I ASSumed that was the problem. I got the enclosure, new filament, and now a dryer. I didn't think to calibrate the extruder.
Seems like something like this could throw the extruder calibration off.