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Got the diving board mounted. The clamps are a little tight but not worth redoing unless it becomes a problem.
The Ol lady is happy.

1000006066.jpg
 
Anybody good with Fusion 360? I'm trying to make a tray that fits in down into a hole, I think I got the tray part but not sure the right way to add a lip that will support the tray when slide into place.

Cubby.png
 
4Eyedturd said:
Anybody good with Fusion 360? I'm trying to make a tray that fits in down into a hole, I think I got the tray part but not sure the right way to add a lip that will support the tray when slide into place.

Cubby.png
Click to expand...

Start a sketch on the top face of your box and draw what you want shape wise the extrude it.
 
Click the new sketch button then click the face, or click the face then click the new sketch button.

1696814227218.png
 
God that was a beating, I know how the old fucks feel staring at a computer trying to it figure it out. I sketched the perimeter, extruded it to the height and changed the bottom dimension to get the height. I probably screwed it up but after exporting it to the dremel slicer I've got a 15hr print

cubby2.png
 
Anyone recommend a more forgiving PETG alternative? Every time I think I've finally got this thing going, it'll bite me in the ass. I want the PETG for heat and UV tolerance.

Overture black PETG filament, Printer is a CR-10V2, it's got a Micro Swiss tool steel extruder nozzle, and some random silicone condom from some 3D Printer outfit, and an EZ Flex magnetic bed from the same place the condom came from. I highly recommend the EZ Flex bed, PETG sticks great! Everything is in a Creality zip up enclosure, not really insulated, but reflective "space blanket" lining.

I can make a really good Benchy. I can start out making great looking parts.

I can't baby sit the thing for 12+ hours, I'll leave it going over night, about 1/2-2/3 through the print, it just decides it doesn't want to anymore. It's like it's bi-polar. It's great or is crap.

I'm using Cura slicer with some tweaked parameters for a 1st Gen CR-10 someone on Reddit shared years ago and their generic PETG profile as I can't find Overture in their list of options.

I've made the following changes and am attempting the print again.

I've moved the spool from the default location on the back of the CR-10 control box, to inside the enclosure attached to the top of the frame sort of like an Ender 3 does. I was suspecting the filament may be catching/dragging on the Velcro slot in the side of the enclosure.

I figured it wouldn't be a bad idea to have the entire spool of PETG inside the enclosure with the heat, I tossed a pair of 9oz clay desiccant packs in the back corner and package taped up the Velcro openings around the control wires after I moved the spool inside the enclosure. I know the zipper isn't air tight, but the Velcro leaves at least a thumb sized opening around either side of the wires without the tape.




I know PETG is notoriously stringy and globby, I can handle that, but my bigger issue is layer adhesion. Starts great, making a beautful part, then randomly, a layer doesn't stick, then another, then another, then layers are peeling, then the extruder is running into the peeled up layers, and filament is just globbing to the extruder.
 
Lee said:
Anyone recommend a more forgiving PETG alternative? Every time I think I've finally got this thing going, it'll bite me in the ass. I want the PETG for heat and UV tolerance.

Overture black PETG filament, Printer is a CR-10V2, it's got a Micro Swiss tool steel extruder nozzle, and some random silicone condom from some 3D Printer outfit, and an EZ Flex magnetic bed from the same place the condom came from. I highly recommend the EZ Flex bed, PETG sticks great! Everything is in a Creality zip up enclosure, not really insulated, but reflective "space blanket" lining.

I can make a really good Benchy. I can start out making great looking parts.

I can't baby sit the thing for 12+ hours, I'll leave it going over night, about 1/2-2/3 through the print, it just decides it doesn't want to anymore. It's like it's bi-polar. It's great or is crap.

I'm using Cura slicer with some tweaked parameters for a 1st Gen CR-10 someone on Reddit shared years ago and their generic PETG profile as I can't find Overture in their list of options.

I've made the following changes and am attempting the print again.

I've moved the spool from the default location on the back of the CR-10 control box, to inside the enclosure attached to the top of the frame sort of like an Ender 3 does. I was suspecting the filament may be catching/dragging on the Velcro slot in the side of the enclosure.

I figured it wouldn't be a bad idea to have the entire spool of PETG inside the enclosure with the heat, I tossed a pair of 9oz clay desiccant packs in the back corner and package taped up the Velcro openings around the control wires after I moved the spool inside the enclosure. I know the zipper isn't air tight, but the Velcro leaves at least a thumb sized opening around either side of the wires without the tape.




I know PETG is notoriously stringy and globby, I can handle that, but my bigger issue is layer adhesion. Starts great, making a beautful part, then randomly, a layer doesn't stick, then another, then another, then layers are peeling, then the extruder is running into the peeled up layers, and filament is just globbing to the extruder.
Click to expand...
I have a CR-10V2 in a Creality enclosure so maybe I can help. The enclosure was one of the best things I did to have great petg prints.

If your prints are sticking and there isn't any warping then you have a great start.

First off how long did you dry the filament? What dryer and temp did you use? From my experience if petg isn't dry you are wasting your time. I print right from the heated dryer.

Second, what are your settings? Nozzle temp, bed temp, print speed? Nozzle size? Air temp and humidity in the print room?

Do you have the power recovery turned off on the CR-10?

Start and develop your own Generic Cura Petg profile. No telling what some rando internet whack a doodle has tweaked in that profile.

I'll take a look at your file and see if I can print it if you want. I will also send you the profile I use if you want. I do run .6 nozzles though.

I mostly run polymaker filament with minimal trouble. I have had some issues with overture filament times and generally avoid buying it.

Here is an 18 hr Petg print from a couple weeks ago.

20231017_172439[1].jpg
 
Tinstar said:
I have a CR-10V2 in a Creality enclosure so maybe I can help. The enclosure was one of the best things I did to have great petg prints.

If your prints are sticking and there isn't any warping then you have a great start.

First off how long did you dry the filament? What dryer and temp did you use? From my experience if petg isn't dry you are wasting your time. I print right from the heated dryer.

Second, what are your settings? Nozzle temp, bed temp, print speed? Nozzle size? Air temp and humidity in the print room?

Do you have the power recovery turned off on the CR-10?

Start and develop your own Generic Cura Petg profile. No telling what some rando internet whack a doodle has tweaked in that profile.

I'll take a look at your file and see if I can print it if you want. I will also send you the profile I use if you want. I do run .6 nozzles though.

I mostly run polymaker filament with minimal trouble. I have had some issues with overture filament times and generally avoid buying it.

Here is an 18 hr Petg print from a couple weeks ago.
Click to expand...


No dryer, I've read how hydroscopic PETG is and wondered if that was my main issue. It's in an air conditioned office/laboratory setting. Not super high humidity and always cold when the A/C is running. The main reason for the enclosure. Sounds like I need to stick it in my toaster oven and/or a bag with desiccant for a bit.

The Reddit post I referenced above.


I'm using a 0.4mm nozzle.

After a lot of Googling, Youtube videos, and trial and error, these are the settings I've found least objectionable. The Tree Support was just something new I was trying, haven't ever used that before now.

PETG 1.PNG

PETG 2.PNG

PETG 3.PNG
 
I'm not a big fan of Cura. Ive never liked their user interface and i find their built in profiles to be lacking. It's also PAINFULLY slow to slice a file. I use Prusaslicer exclusively for my non Bambu machines. User interface is better, it slices way faster, and i find i generally get much better quality prints when using PrusaSlicer vs Cura
 
It easy to spend others money. You really need a proper dryer with a fan for great prints. They are about $50 on Amazon.


Give these settings a try.

Set your nozzle to 245c for both settings.
Turn off your fan.
Print speed to 40mms.

Note any changes better or worse.
 
I ordered this last night.


Also 2 spools of Polymaker Polylite PETG. Though I've got this spool of Overture and another still vacuum sealed spool of Overture on the shelf. I have made good prints with Overture, it just seems to be temperamental.
 
Awesome! I bet that Overture will be useable after you dry it.

I usually go at least 12hrs at 55c for any filament I am fixing to use then print from the dryer.
 
I have been doing PETG almost exclusivly for a couple years now. I don't have an enclosure. My filaments have never been dried, I have none of the issues described above. If layers are not bonding mid print your machine or slicing is wrong IMO. Have you been able to verify layer height or nozzle temp when those issues show up?

Edit, you might also want to reformat your USB drive. That has caused some weird issues for me.
 
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Got my Ender set up last weekend. Figuring out the software for drawing and Acura/prude slicers. I was able to make my own print which was rewarding on its own.

I have the Chameleon multiple filament coming for the machine, but don’t grasp how I’m going to draw in multiple colors. Admittedly I haven’t searched too hard for it yet, but do you guys have tutorials that may have helped you with this?

My project is intricate or anything, it’s just a 4 color copy of the old pixelated duck hunt ducks for now…
 
When changing from a glass bed to a magnetic bed, the glass gets removed and isn't retained, is this correct?

I'm anything but experienced with this and appreciate the help.
 
dunno said:
When changing from a glass bed to a magnetic bed, the glass gets removed and isn't retained, is this correct?

I'm anything but experienced with this and appreciate the help.
Click to expand...
Correct. I’ve got about 5 old glass beds taking up valuable shelf space. I really should toss them one of these days
 
The DIY Richrap dryer is legit. For about $30 and a free bin I got from the trash I'm keeping 4 spools dry. Holding 10%/80* with 2x reptile 7w reptile heaters on max. I think the bin I have is originally for file folders. I may upgrade it as I can't really see through it, and it's brittle as hell. I split it a couple times drilling holes. The bin has no seal, and a couple splits, but seems to hold/ temp and humidity rock solid.



Each spool has it's own PTFE tube, so in theory I could run 4 printers at once. Only downside is the Richrap spool holders need adapters for some spools.

I also have the SUNLU dryer, and it's great. Hate the fact, it cant maintain spools ready to go. It times out and shuts off. Will probably return it.

I ordered everything off Amazon, except the rod and nuts. Subbed 5/16". Saved a few $ by ordering on Prime day, but it's still about $30, not including the hydrometer/ temp gauges, printed parts, and bin.

richrap.blogspot.com

DIY Heated DryBox for 3D Printing filament - under $20

DIY Heated DryBox In this blog post and Video I'm showing you how to make a simple heated drybox for your 3D printing filament that you...
richrap.blogspot.com richrap.blogspot.com

I used these pass throughs.

Printables

www.printables.com www.printables.com
 
I'm getting pretty frustrated with this stupid CR-10. I'm sure it's the operator but I can't make a usable PETG part with it.

I ran the Overture through the dryer for over 24 hours with a 9oz clay desiccant bag thrown in for good measure. It will give the false sense that it's going to print some stuff great, but once you get that feeling of, "it might work this time," and leave it to do its thing for the next 10+ hours you'll return to garbage.

I kept having craters using the Overture filament, I assumed moisture. Looks like bubbles bursting, but I don't think that's the case. I opened a brand new spool of Polymaker Polylite PETG, fresh from its vacuum sealed bag and into the dryer, and its doing the same thing.

What's causing this surface finish, heat, speed, gremlins?

This is the Overture filament with the adjustments to my original settings above that Tinstar suggested.
PXL_20231031_143955383.jpg


This is Polylite with those same settings slightly tweaked. The Polylite was a little stringier than the Overture, so I dropped it to nozzle temp to 240°, dropped sped to 35 mm/s, and increased retraction speed to 30 mm/s. Combing is on with Infill. I also flipped the print over to use less support structure and shave 1.5 hours off the print time.

PXL_20231101_153834372.jpg
 
Lee said:
I'm getting pretty frustrated with this stupid CR-10. I'm sure it's the operator but I can't make a usable PETG part with it.

I ran the Overture through the dryer for over 24 hours with a 9oz clay desiccant bag thrown in for good measure. It will give the false sense that it's going to print some stuff great, but once you get that feeling of, "it might work this time," and leave it to do its thing for the next 10+ hours you'll return to garbage.

I kept having craters using the Overture filament, I assumed moisture. Looks like bubbles bursting, but I don't think that's the case. I opened a brand new spool of Polymaker Polylite PETG, fresh from its vacuum sealed bag and into the dryer, and its doing the same thing.

What's causing this surface finish, heat, speed, gremlins?

This is the Overture filament with the adjustments to my original settings above that Tinstar suggested.


This is Polylite with those same settings slightly tweaked. The Polylite was a little stringier than the Overture, so I dropped it to nozzle temp to 240°, dropped sped to 35 mm/s, and increased retraction speed to 30 mm/s. Combing is on with Infill. I also flipped the print over to use less support structure and shave 1.5 hours off the print time.
Click to expand...
First glance it looks like the infill density is too low to support the top layer(s). And in general, low speed and high temps will cause more stringing and blobs, even with a higher temp material like PETG.
 
krammit said:
First glance it looks like the infill density is too low to support the top layer(s). And in general, low speed and high temps will cause more stringing and blobs, even with a higher temp material like PETG.
Click to expand...

I'm Ruth Langmore when it comes to 3D printing.

I was having stringing issues, some Reddit thread said to slow it down, decrease the temp, and increase my retraction speed. Seemed to work.

I've got infill set at 15%, just from googling, the prevailing recommendations are 10-20% infill, so I shot for the middle. I can bump it to 20% if you think that's really my problem.
 
Lee said:
I'm Ruth Langmore when it comes to 3D printing.

I was having stringing issues, some Reddit thread said to slow it down, decrease the temp, and increase my retraction speed. Seemed to work.

I've got infill set at 15%, just from googling, the prevailing recommendations are 10-20% infill, so I shot for the middle. I can bump it to 20% if you think that's really my problem.
Click to expand...
it's hard to say for certain just based on a picture. but from experience, if i saw that on a print, i'd increase the infill density. also curious, is it only attempting a single layer to create the surface skin on that part? usually there are 2 or 3 passes in alternating directions that way everything gets evened out and gaps are closed tighter.
 
Lee said:
I'm Ruth Langmore when it comes to 3D printing.

I was having stringing issues, some Reddit thread said to slow it down, decrease the temp, and increase my retraction speed. Seemed to work.

I've got infill set at 15%, just from googling, the prevailing recommendations are 10-20% infill, so I shot for the middle. I can bump it to 20% if you think that's really my problem.
Click to expand...
Have you calibrated your extruder steps (mm/step?). That looks very similar to an issue I had where the printer was way underextruding.

To test:
Mark the filament about 200mm up from the entrace to the extruder
Warm the hotend and tell the manual control to extrude 100mm
Measure the mark and see if it moved 100mm
If it doesnt figure out how to adjust the extruder steps
 
krammit said:
it's hard to say for certain just based on a picture. but from experience, if i saw that on a print, i'd increase the infill density. also curious, is it only attempting a single layer to create the surface skin on that part? usually there are 2 or 3 passes in alternating directions that way everything gets evened out and gaps are closed tighter.
Click to expand...

5 layers top and bottom.

kf4zht said:
Have you calibrated your extruder steps (mm/step?). That looks very similar to an issue I had where the printer was way underextruding.

To test:
Mark the filament about 200mm up from the entrace to the extruder
Warm the hotend and tell the manual control to extrude 100mm
Measure the mark and see if it moved 100mm
If it doesnt figure out how to adjust the extruder steps
Click to expand...

I have not. It's plausible this thing is really screwed up.

It crashed bad about 2 years ago, wore grooves in the aluminum bed mount frame from the bind it put itself into and then continued attempting to print for hours. I haven't been able to make a good print with it since, but it was months between the crash and me trying again. I know the filament was old, and the room was cold (HVAC blows right on it) so I ASSumed that was the problem. I got the enclosure, new filament, and now a dryer. I didn't think to calibrate the extruder.

Seems like something like this could throw the extruder calibration off.

PXL_20211206_191235099.jpg


PXL_20211206_191242736.MP.jpg
 
Lee said:
I have not. It's plausible this thing is really screwed up.

It crashed bad about 2 years ago, wore grooves in the aluminum bed mount frame from the bind it put itself into and then continued attempting to print for hours. I haven't been able to make a good print with it since, but it was months between the crash and me trying again. I know the filament was old, and the room was cold (HVAC blows right on it) so I ASSumed that was the problem. I got the enclosure, new filament, and now a dryer. I didn't think to calibrate the extruder.

Seems like something like this could throw the extruder calibration off.
Click to expand...

My old ender just lost its extruder config one day. Nothing happened that I know of but prints started sucking and I eventually got to that

Its also possible you have a partially obstructed nozzle or clogged extruder gear. The test will still help show an issue
 
Under extruding by about 24.5mm. I think kf4zht is on to something.

From a little googling, this may be the aftermarket Micro Swiss tool steel nozzle's fault. I'll adjust the parameters in Cura and see what happens.

PXL_20231101_194210484.MP.jpg
 
Lee, looks like you are on to something. 25% under extruding will do that. I missed where your printer crashed. You may have to go through it to make sure everything is tight and in spec..

Teaching Tech has the best/easiest printer calibration that I have found.

Looking forward to a pic of the next print.
 
It's better but there's still room for improvement.

Really disappointed with the surface finish the supports leave on the other side as well.

1000002435.jpg
 
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