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Sam I am

91samurai said:
I just bought a whole used distributor instead of the igniter. $50 vs $250+
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Ya, i was thinking that also. Parts store junk is around $100. Or I found a write up on swapping to gm external coil & igniter for like $25.

I'm starting to think I should just put money towards the 2.0 swap vs nickle and dime with the 1.3 :laughing:
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Died briefly twice on the way to work, but still made it. Figured I'd finally throw the new coil on. Now I'm stuck on the side of the road waiting for the wife to rope tow me to work :homer:

Guess it's not the coil:laughing:
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Let me know if you want me to ship you anything. I probably have 37-38 of whatever Japanese gizmos you may need.
 
2big bronco said:
Not sure how to tell if they are good... i did just aquire a complete motor for free...
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Ya, that's the tough part. Mine will run fine for long periods of time and then just die, so even one off a running one could be bad or near failure.

I should probably just grab a vatozone one with a warranty.
 
Well it wouldn't start this morning, swapped in the old coil, no change. Maybe the extra draw of the new coil was the straw that broke the distributors back?
 
Parts stores couldn't get the Sami distributor so I got one from roadless gear for $150 with a cap and rotor. All good except the plug was completely wrong :homer: not a huge deal, but always annoying having to mod brand new stuff. My first samurai had the smaller white double barrel shaped plugs, this has the big round ones, I can't picture suzuki using the plugs that this came with :confused:

20221105_104129.jpg


Anyway, it did the trick, seems to run good. It is still bogging out at about 4500 rpm with a load, like I mentioned a while back. I pulled the top off the carb to clean the power valve like the guy at certified machine mentioned.

I quickly realized that I don't know dick about carbs, put it back on and did a really good Mexican tune up :laughing:

We'll see how it does after that. At least it's actually running now.

20221105_122522.jpg
 
From what I have learned about carbs is that they don’t like dirt in the fuel. Or in the carb where the float is.

You can adjust it the way the old guys I know used to. Turn back the fuel until it starts to sputter and then adjust from there. You have to rev it a few times to set the cable and all that.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Everything looked super clean. Carb isn't very old and had 2 filters from day 1.

It runs great up to ~4500-5k with load and will Rev to 7500+ with no load.

We took a little cruise to the mountains today and all went well.

20221105_161233.jpg
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When you say load are you meaning drivetrain or hills? So it can rev to 7500 in neutral, but not in drive?

Elevation causing issues? Maybe different jets?
 
FleshEater said:
When you say load are you meaning drivetrain or hills? So it can rev to 7500 in neutral, but not in drive?

Elevation causing issues? Maybe different jets?
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In neutral or in 1st gear flat ground. 2nd gear on a slight grade it won't Rev out.

It's consistent at different elevations.
 
I could be totally off, but it kind of sounds like it's getting sort of choked out by fuel or vapor locking maybe? How's your charcoal canister? When mine was clogged it would do that, and when the replacement (which was the wrong kind) would fill up with fuel, it would do that - rev up until I put it in gear and tried to move, then it would die.
 
Paul said:
I could be totally off, but it kind of sounds like it's getting sort of choked out by fuel or vapor locking maybe? How's your charcoal canister? When mine was clogged it would do that, and when the replacement (which was the wrong kind) would fill up with fuel, it would do that - rev up until I put it in gear and tried to move, then it would die.
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How do I even check the charcoal canister besides confirming that it's there? :laughing:

SHARPMACHINE said:
You getting plenty of fuel through your double filter set up? Could you be running out of fuel when under a load?
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I think so, the 1st is stock and the 2nd is the one that certified machine gives you with the carb kit.

ParadisePWoffrd said:
could it be possible that you are just running out of power?
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I mean, always? :laughing:

It's not just running out of power, it's like pulling slightly until 4500-5k then stumbling, but fine if I back off.
 
So, how could we test to make sure it is not running out of fuel?

Maybe put the line in a bottle, have someone start or turn the key on (depends on what kind of pump you have).

Or, maybe run it till it does it and push the clutch and kill it (on a dirt road or something) and check to see if there is fuel in the carb?

Sure seems fuel related.:question::question:
 
SHARPMACHINE said:
So, how could we test to make sure it is not running out of fuel?

Maybe put the line in a bottle, have someone start or turn the key on (depends on what kind of pump you have).

Or, maybe run it till it does it and push the clutch and kill it (on a dirt road or something) and check to see if there is fuel in the carb?

Sure seems fuel related.:question::question:
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Wouldn't it do it with no load also?
 
I am not absolutely sure, but I would think it would be difficult to "run it hard" for several seconds without a load. I am not sure I am any help to you at all, just brainstorming since this seems to be a problem you have been fighting for a while????
 
SHARPMACHINE said:
I am not absolutely sure, but I would think it would be difficult to "run it hard" for several seconds without a load. I am not sure I am any help to you at all, just brainstorming since this seems to be a problem you have been fighting for a while????
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Don't get me wrong, I'm not trying to shoot anyone down, I'm just as lost as anyone on this subject and brainstorming as well.

I will say, the guy from certified machine was pretty sure it was the power valve, so I'm tempted to believe him. I just need to figure out how to clean it, and we'll, what it is :laughing:

Paul said:
In my case, I pulled it off and tried to push some air thru it. It was totally clogged.
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Makes sense
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Don't get me wrong, I'm not trying to shoot anyone down, I'm just as lost as anyone on this subject and brainstorming as well.

I will say, the guy from certified machine was pretty sure it was the power valve, so I'm tempted to believe him. I just need to figure out how to clean it, and we'll, what it is :laughing:



Makes sense
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The power valve is usually a diaphragm that is pushed when you push the throttle down. It gives the engine a shot of fuel to keep the engine from bogging when you give it more throttle. I would imagine it would be cleaned by putting it in a cleaning solution and letting it soak? Maybe ask the vendor for a little more info...?
www.bing.com

carburator power valve - Bing

Intelligent search from Bing makes it easier to quickly find what you’re looking for and rewards you.
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Got an email back from CF.

There are no diagrams, instructions, anything - that I am aware of. Attached is a scanned photo from a rebuild kit (Hygrade #743B) is for the original Aisin Carburetor. The Chinese are the only ones available and there are several different factories that make them. So expect a difference in accelerator pump length - there are several lengths (see attached). Kits will cost $40 to $60.

It certainly sounds (from your description) that the problem is the 'high side' of the fuel circuit - the power valve makes the transition possible. Just needs to be dis-assembled and cleaned.

Or visit our website a purchase a new one - $200 shipped. I would unless you just want the journey thru a 3K.

Have a Blessed Day

Gary
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3K Accelerator Pump 3 sizes.jpg
3k Carb Exploded Drawing.png


Looks like I need to just take it apart again and see if i can clean up the PV.
 
SHARPMACHINE said:
The power valve is usually a diaphragm that is pushed when you push the throttle down. It gives the engine a shot of fuel to keep the engine from bogging when you give it more throttle. I would imagine it would be cleaned by putting it in a cleaning solution and letting it soak? Maybe ask the vendor for a little more info...?
www.bing.com

carburator power valve - Bing

Intelligent search from Bing makes it easier to quickly find what you’re looking for and rewards you.
www.bing.com www.bing.com
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The power valve is to smooth the transition to the secondary’s being open. If the problem is under wide open throttle and not right after he hits the gas it might be a secondary jet issue not the power valve
 
I went back and checked and you never did check compression.

You might be running on 3 cylinders with a burnt valve or some other issue. Compression test is quick and easy and can save you from dicking with a carb over and over again. If you’re running 3 cylinders it will bog and have worthless power with a load. I wheeled an 8V for a year on 3 cylinders. It was a dog.

Do the test. :flipoff2:
 
FleshEater said:
I went back and checked and you never did check compression.

You might be running on 3 cylinders with a burnt valve or some other issue. Compression test is quick and easy and can save you from dicking with a carb over and over again. If you’re running 3 cylinders it will bog and have worthless power with a load. I wheeled an 8V for a year on 3 cylinders. It was a dog.

Do the test. :flipoff2:
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If it was running on 3cyl's it would run rough all the time and have a wet plug.

It hasn't always done it either.

Also, I came here to post that I went for a spin this morning and it seemed to run great all the way to 6k+ rpm :confused:

I'm so good at fixing things I don't even have to try :laughing::homer:



Also got my full top today. Went with a shittybilt multipiece top with tinted windows.


Crazy cheap for how nice it is, especially whith the zip out side windows. I think that will come in handy with our unpredictable weather up here.

Also nice they give you extra buttons for the tub
20221112_102859.jpg


Going to see how it fits with the roadless gear 3 piece stainless bow today.
 
"tinted windows don't mean nothin, they know who's inside!" :flipoff2:

20221112_140805.jpg


First time I've put a full top on a rig in forever. Always fun trying to get that stuff to stretch, especially when it's 30* out.

I took it for a ~20 miles loop this evening. It did do the stumbling thing once, but also seemed to Rev out a few times also. :confused:

It honestly runs good enough otherwise, I think I'm just going to run it for now. Not like I really need to try and Rev it to 7k rpm all the time. :laughing:
 
Took it up last weekend. Man is it slow, 1st gear 7 mph sucks :laughing:

I'm kinda torn with this thing. The tracks are cool, but if I go with buddies in crawlers, I get left in the dust on the way up. Then we get to deep stuff and I leave them behind. I went with a SxS last weekend. Even being a sport utility type, he was waaaay quicker. Then in deep snow around here, you often need power to spin them a bit.

So wtf is the point of this rig? :homer:

Really thinking about selling the tracks and getting ~42s for my Toyota. Maybe a set of nice tires for this thing also. The other option would be to drop the 2.0 in and see how that is, but I think I'm kinda over the tracks.


I'm pretty certain I smoked the alternator on that trip as well. It's a stock 8v and replacements are $150+ so I'm thinking about just doing the 1 wire swap. Anyone know of a write up or pointers on what alt for a serp belt?
 
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