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Rapey Snap-On Tools

granitestatedestroyer said:
Wait, what?

I don't want my hammer to bounce at all. I want all that energy to go into what I'm hitting.
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I understand what he’s talking about. I can honestly say that dead blow ball peen hammer lack the energy delivered that I can get out of an old school solid ball peen hammer. As I said, they both have their place.

Thread derail dead blow vs solids coming in 1…2…:flipoff2:
 
I do love the snap on - Williams dead blow hammers. Nothing out there compares to them at all, period
 
Landslide said:
I understand what he’s talking about. I can honestly say that dead blow ball peen hammer lack the energy delivered that I can get out of an old school solid ball peen hammer. As I said, they both have their place.

Thread derail dead blow vs solids coming in 1…2…:flipoff2:
Click to expand...

When you are hitting something with full force and don't want it to recoil and destroy sheetmetal or similar is where deadblow delivers.

Sure you could get a standard ballpeen and a block of wood for the same effect. To me convinience is worth it.

I also agree with you there is no contest in Tekton vs SnapOn hammers.
I tried to like Tekton ones I held in my hand for the past few weeks, in the end I decided to go with a better product.

Not a SnapOn fanboi, but I can see quality/value offered with some of their tools.

Fellow did not have any line wrenches in metric. Wanted to get my paws on those to get a feel for them.

Got out of that truck quick as them dual 80's were reeling me in (put new to me Tektons to work and I am very pleased with them, I did disassemble and treated them to ATF prior to using them)...:laughing:
 
As far as value holding tool boxes go, I own three large snap on boxes with the suspension casters and 29” deep. They are all loaded and one gets more use then the other two and it’s my oldest first one new in 90.

I didn’t buy these boxes (one new other two used) for their resale value in mind. I bought them to use and never replace in my lifetime. The roller bearing drawer slides are warranted for life.

If you want a cHiNa HF wannabe snap on box, then knock yourself out. Just know, you’ll never ever convince me to go that route at all.

This is the top drawer of my oldest box which is loaded pretty heavy with socket stuff and a few other items. I’ve no idea how much weight is in this drawer alone but it’s a bunch. I’ve added to it through the years but not a lot. The majority of this stuff was bought in the 90’s. So this drawer has never had it very easy weight wise. My buddies know how serious I am about how to let the drawer close also. Box is tilted back a couple degrees to help prevent them from just opening on their own. When shutting it, keep your hand on it and slow it down to allow it to close softly. I fucking hate all my sockets and shit all James to the back of the drawer. I’ll keep you out of my box or chase you out of my shop and I’m serious about that. Not just Dick, but Mr. Dick.

IMG_3714.jpeg
 
Gtrplyr78 said:
When you are hitting something with full force and don't want it to recoil and destroy sheetmetal or similar is where deadblow delivers.

Sure you could get a standard ballpeen and a block of wood for the same effect. To me convinience is worth it.

I also agree with you there is no contest in Tekton vs SnapOn hammers.
I tried to like Tekton ones I held in my hand for the past few weeks, in the end I decided to go with a better product.

Not a SnapOn fanboi, but I can see quality/value offered with some of their tools.

Fellow did not have any line wrenches in metric. Wanted to get my paws on those to get a feel for them.

Got out of that truck quick as them dual 80's were reeling me in (put new to me Tektons to work and I am very pleased with them, I did disassemble and treated them to ATF prior to using them)...:laughing:
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I stay away from their trucks unless I need a warranty. All the drivers I knew are no longer in it any more. I buy my snap on stuff elsewhere now.
 
Landslide said:
I stay away from their trucks unless I need a warranty. All the drivers I knew are no longer in it any more. I buy my snap on stuff elsewhere now.
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Honestly guy was not pushy, was there in a different capacity and servicing his shop customers. I just hapenned to be there getting the car emissioned.

He also saved me from paying shipping when ordering from the mothership/waiting for the items to arrive. I don't have a hook up or know someone that does, so this worked out ok for me. Already used both tools earlier today while putzing around with snowblower amongst other things...
 
planefixer said:
I've had the SAE set (1/4" - 3/4") for about a year - awesome wrenches.
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Fractional I seldom use, you working in the aircraft repair has you seeing it more often.

That being said I keep SAE wrenches and sockets around for just in case.

I like these Capri wrenches thus far, plan on getting ratcheting style ones in the future (still pondering on the commonly used sizes or to get a full set instead).
 
Gtrplyr78 said:
Honestly guy was not pushy, was there in a different capacity and servicing his shop customers. I just hapenned to be there getting the car emissioned.

He also saved me from paying shipping when ordering from the mothership/waiting for the items to arrive. I don't have a hook up or know someone that does, so this worked out ok for me. Already used both tools earlier today while putzing around with snowblower amongst other things...
Click to expand...
Don’t get me wrong, I’ve nothing against tool truck drivers, I just buy them from swap meets etc etc now.
 
granitestatedestroyer said:
Wait, what?

I don't want my hammer to bounce at all. I want all that energy to go into what I'm hitting.
Click to expand...
when I want something to move rather than mushroom I pick a heavier hammer
when I want something to peen rather than move, I pick a lighter hammer
simple as

beating a CV axle into its spring clip? 8lb will compress the mushy joints and transfer enough force to the stub to pop the spring clip together without mangling the threads on the outer
beating a windshield wiper arm taper apart? 6oz ball peen backed by a 3lb on the other side of the arm
brake rotor on most anything? 2lb
brake rotor on a '90s hyundai where they didn't leave enough clearance between the OD of the hub and the ID of the hat? 4lb
 
Landslide said:
Don’t get me wrong, I’ve nothing against tool truck drivers, I just buy them from swap meets etc etc now.
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I need to get myself to one of those, have a local to me outdoor swapmeet ocurring every weekend.

Then again, I am decently tooled up, what remains will be larger ticket stuff/specialty tools going forward.
 
[486] said:
when I want something to move rather than mushroom I pick a heavier hammer
when I want something to peen rather than move, I pick a lighter hammer
simple as

beating a CV axle into its spring clip? 8lb will compress the mushy joints and transfer enough force to the stub to pop the spring clip together without mangling the threads on the outer
beating a windshield wiper arm taper apart? 6oz ball peen backed by a 3lb on the other side of the arm
brake rotor on most anything? 2lb
brake rotor on a '90s hyundai where they didn't leave enough clearance between the OD of the hub and the ID of the hat? 4lb
Click to expand...
I got a 14lb sledge with a solid steel handle. It only ever gets swung like a golf club at brake/wheel hub shit. :laughing:
 
[486] said:
when I want something to move rather than mushroom I pick a heavier hammer
when I want something to peen rather than move, I pick a lighter hammer
simple as

beating a CV axle into its spring clip? 8lb will compress the mushy joints and transfer enough force to the stub to pop the spring clip together without mangling the threads on the outer
beating a windshield wiper arm taper apart? 6oz ball peen backed by a 3lb on the other side of the arm
brake rotor on most anything? 2lb
brake rotor on a '90s hyundai where they didn't leave enough clearance between the OD of the hub and the ID of the hat? 4lb
Click to expand...
WHAT?!? Fawk that, I use my 48oz on everything :flipoff2:

Yep, use the right hammer for the right job. Too small of a hammer trying to get aggressive on something that requires a larger hammer will result in a broken handle. <- old school hammer that is.
 
Gtrplyr78 said:
I need to get myself to one of those, have a local to me outdoor swapmeet ocurring every weekend.

Then again, I am decently tooled up, what remains will be larger ticket stuff/specialty tools going forward.
Click to expand...
Blasphemy. One NEVER has enough hand tools… ever. Your quest is far from over grasshopper.
 
I think I have a brass faced dead blow and a cheap POS plastic one I don't use. 40oz. ballpean is the go to most times, if you can swing a hammer worth a shit it's not gonna bounce all over with every hit.
 
Landslide said:
Must be nice to have a big drawer dedicated to only hammers :laughing:
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bottom right drawer
also a jumble of punches/chisels, press tools, chains, a chain comealong, leather gloves, uhhhh....

ooh
my favorite punch, it's a differential center pin that I welded a foot long handle onto
you can really swing at it hard when your hand is a foot back very loosely gripping the handle
 
Landslide said:
WHAT?!? Fawk that, I use my 48oz on everything :flipoff2:

Yep, use the right hammer for the right job. Too small of a hammer trying to get aggressive on something that requires a larger hammer will result in a broken handle. <- old school hammer that is.
Click to expand...
I do use my 3lb most of the time

every store bought hammer loses its handle pretty quick, they just come loose and fly apart
it's pretty easy to handle a hammer so the head stays on, but it ain't pretty so the hammers in the stores ain't never done well

gotta have a half inch sticking out past the head, then splinter it real fine, then grind a notch in about six drywall screws so they break off flush with the steel of the head, buried down in the splintered end (and don't extend past the head down into the handle below the head)
then soak it in oil so the wood expands

never have to rehandle them after that
 
I guess we are starting on the must have hammers now:flipoff2:

Unlike our Wookie resident, I sort of keep them in the lower portion of my roll cab.

My persuading assortment:
 

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[486] said:
my favorite punch, it's a differential center pin that I welded a foot long handle onto
you can really swing at it hard when your hand is a foot back very loosely gripping the handle
Click to expand...
1/2 pipe cap welded to an old kingpin. Pipe handle.

I picked the most shitty pipe cap I had so naturally it's made of old garbage cast and doesn't weld good compared to the modern ones so when I miss wrong enough I have to re-weld it. :shaking:
 
meh, if the handle were an issue I'd hold a bare center pin in a channel locks
 
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