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Project: I have no idea what I'm doing (Moved from p4x4)

i did 18x20 and that was 360 if i recall. so should be fine. maybe air flow over all is a shit garbage at speed, somehow its getting blocked. winch bumper air going around vice through.
 
You still running the pusher setup on the radiator? Where are the coolers for the trans?
 
chaplinfj60 said:
last one i saw they did exactly that cut the sides out for the rad.
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all I can picture is
1701123133937.png



but really, there's been lots of jeeps with lots of LS swaps, and I think that's the only one I've ever heard of cutting the grill.
 
Sandy Johnson said:
all I can picture is
1701123133937.png



but really, there's been lots of jeeps with lots of LS swaps, and I think that's the only one I've ever heard of cutting the grill.
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That's only 12% smaller (31x19) than the 450-800whp LS-powered dune buggies I run with at Glamis, and they have almost zero natural airflow since there's a windshield and seats in the way. WFO everywhere for sometimes hours at a time, including towing other dead buggies (common) out.

Would larger help? Yep, but the radiator you have should be able to run for more than 30 seconds before fucking off.
 
Rockwood said:
That's only 12% smaller (31x19) than the 450-800whp LS-powered dune buggies I run with at Glamis, and they have almost zero natural airflow since there's a windshield and seats in the way. WFO everywhere for sometimes hours at a time, including towing other dead buggies (common) out.

Would larger help? Yep, but the radiator you have should be able to run for more than 30 seconds before fucking off.
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Those ls buggies are also working a fraction as hard as his jeep is.
 
Rockwood said:
Would larger help? Yep, but the radiator you have should be able to run for more than 30 seconds before fucking off.
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Weeell.... It takes a while to get the motor hot. It takes a very short time to get the transmission hot. I'll be out at hollister this weekend, maybe I'll go find a hillclimb and try to film my gauges as WOT for the peanut gallery.

...If I got the transmission and torque converter really really hot once, could it cause them to suck at cooling themselves after that?
 
If this dude can do burnouts all day, I should be able to at least stop my damn automatic transmission from overheating on a sandy hill climb.



I'd even go so far as to say his one big tranny cooler doesn't look too much larger than the combined surface area of my two coolers with fans.
1701128795304.png
 
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2big bronco said:
Does your transcooler have a nice shroud like the one above or just 2 random fans slapped against it?
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Yes and sorta.

One has a fan and shroud that covers the whole thing hidden under the front clip.
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The other is smaller and has a smaller fan and shroud to cover the area actually open to airflow.
1000003553.jpg

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Have you quadruple checked that your fans are blowing the correct way. I wonder if at speed they are doing the opposite of what the airflow wants and is negating any flow
 
Sandy Johnson said:
If this dude can do burnouts all day, I should be able to at least stop my damn automatic transmission from overheating on a sandy hill climb.



I'd even go so far as to say his one big tranny cooler doesn't look too much larger than the combined surface area of my two coolers with fans.
1701128795304.png
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Have you seen the fans that are in this thing and the thickness and type of cooler you're looking at ?
Very very different than what you have.

Rockwood said:
That's only 12% smaller (31x19) than the 450-800whp LS-powered dune buggies I run with at Glamis
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Tank size stays the same, the only difference is core size. So assuming the tanks are 2" on each side, you go from 19x19 core size to 27x19. That's a 42% increase.

Rockwood said:
That's only 12% smaller (31x19) than the 450-800whp LS-powered dune buggies I run with at Glamis, and they have almost zero natural airflow since there's a windshield and seats in the way. WFO everywhere for sometimes hours at a time, including towing other dead buggies (common) out.
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How much does one of these buggies weight and do they have an enclosed engine bay that keep all the heat packed next to the heat source + have no way to extract the hot air ?
 
Bebop said:
Have you seen the fans that are in this thing and the thickness and type of cooler you're looking at ?
Very very different than what you have.


Tank size stays the same, the only difference is core size. So assuming the tanks are 2" on each side, you go from 19x19 core size to 27x19. That's a 42% increase.


How much does one of these buggies weight and do they have an enclosed engine bay that keep all the heat packed next to the heat source + have no way to extract the hot air ?
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My math mistake.

Buggies weigh about 3,000lbs, plus passengers. Engine isn’t enclosed, but dunes are at speed, so I don’t think heatsoak is terrible like when slow crawling. Definitely lighter and easier than a Jeep, but we’ve been in the dunes when it’s 116* out. The sand area in Superstition is a bunch of short climbs, no real monster dunes, and no way a Jeep is going to be able to maintain throttle as long or use as much fuel as a twin turbo 427ci like a dedicated buggy without death. This isn’t towing up a grade, it’s duning.

Sorry Sandy Johnson for the sidebar. Back to trying to answer the question asked on trans temps.

I think at speed the air being rammed in the front might be trying to leave through your under clip trans cooler. BMWs have an oil cooler there that is top fed. The fender mounted job could be seeing significant tire pump screwing with airflow and possibly fighting the fan. Is it fed by the front grille at all?
 
2big bronco said:
Have you quadruple checked that your fans are blowing the correct way. I wonder if at speed they are doing the opposite of what the airflow wants and is negating any flow
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You're making me second guess, but last time I looked I'm pretty sure they were both puller fans. I don't have to be going fast to overheat the trans. I could do the same thing spinning brodies in the dirt
1Sinner said:
That's a good point, they're also in pretty awful locations
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Tell me more. I don't know shit about fuck when it comes to this. I'm limited on locations since everything is so tight on this and I need kid and cargo room. Where do most v8 swap jeep guys put their trans coolers?
 
Tell more about the valve body.

Isn't the 700r4 a throttle valve style trans? Do you have the cable hooked up for that, adjusted properly?

Do you have the info on the valve body / shift kit from previous owner? I'd look into that - read the info from the manufacturer of those parts. If my memory serves, some valve bodies remove the need for the TV cable, and some still need them.
 
Opiebennett said:
Tell more about the valve body.

Isn't the 700r4 a throttle valve style trans? Do you have the cable hooked up for that, adjusted properly?

Do you have the info on the valve body / shift kit from previous owner? I'd look into that - read the info from the manufacturer of those parts. If my memory serves, some valve bodies remove the need for the TV cable, and some still need them.
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I've got paperwork from PO on it somewhere. If I remember right or had some kind of cool snake name
 
I have a 700R4 in my jeep behind the stock 4.0L. It used to get a bit warm. I didn't read anywhere, do you have a trans temp gauge? Are you running the fluid through the radiator before your coolers?

Most 700s have 5/16" cooler lines. YJs with factory autos have 3/8" lines. I got some cooler line fittings for my rig from a caprice cop car so I could run 3/8" lines and that helped a bit. I have a big cooler that I had laying around that I installed in front of the radiator. At that location the trans would run 30-50 degrees above ambient. I moved it to the RH fender, drawing air from behind the tire with an electric fan. The airflow isn't as good so it runs about 70-80 above ambient there.

There is something else going on, you should be able to cool it down.
 
Air is getting somewhat squeezed/accelerated under the front of the Jeep (low pressure) and stacked up in front of the grille (higher pressure). Easiest test would be flipping the fan to the bottom and seeing if that helps. It'll just cost some of those cheese-dick zipties (which I have) or just flipping the cooler over. If it helps, you could probably fabricobble a new bracket that puts the bottom of the fan at the same height as the bottom of the cooler currently (assuming you want to tuck it up a little).

I don't think the fender cooler is doing a hell of a lot. Might as well keep it since it's not like it's heating things.
 
For what its worth, I ran a 4l60E for years (basically the same as the 700R4) and didnt run a massive cooler and didnt have heat issues like your mentioning with 5.13s and 40s. Do you think there is an underlying issue with the trans? Or maybe the stall is too high? It sounds like something isnt right.

Glad to hear the expedition towed the jeep like a champ. My wife has been interested in those.
 
If cooler improvements don't help enough I would go after torque converter next. This is where most all heat is generated, unless locked.
Not sure about 700R4 specifically, but in others the converter can be locked in 2nd. Most don't in 1st as it makes things jerky (aka like a manual) and TC slip smooths things out. Modern electronic trans have more control and options for TC lockup. Perhaps the clutch in TC is worn.
 
Are your coolers plumbed in series or parallel? I'd think you'd want them in series.

Are you running through the radiator at all? Fluid to fluid hear exchangers are way more efficient that air to fluid.

I grew up in a transmission shop. I seem to remember the best way to plumb them was the cooler should be on the return line from the radiator.

Transmission-radiator-cooler-back to trans.
 
06h3 said:
For what its worth, I ran a 4l60E for years (basically the same as the 700R4) and didnt run a massive cooler and didnt have heat issues like your mentioning with 5.13s and 40s.
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I think something funky with trans. I also think 4L60e had no TV cable.

-Converter on the way out or wrong stall
-Valve body has bypassing in it or needs new o-ring or seal somewhere
-TV cable required and not hooked up or not adjusted properly, resulting in low line pressure at high RPM, creating slipping

30 seconds of spirited driving with 2ea coolers regardless of airflow or fans resulting in overheating to the point of shutdown isn't normal, and I don't think it's a cooling problem.

Start with documentation for valve body and go from there.
 
06h3 said:
For what its worth, I ran a 4l60E for years (basically the same as the 700R4) and didnt run a massive cooler and didnt have heat issues like your mentioning with 5.13s and 40s. Do you think there is an underlying issue with the trans? Or maybe the stall is too high? It sounds like something isnt right.
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I'm starting to think it's that. My motor isn't anything insane, and my jeep isn't some super heavy tank. Way back when I bought this thing, I drove home on the freeway about 400 miles, through LA, over hills, etc. It cruised 65 on the freeway the whole way.

Here's a shot from the drive back then. Trans temp is low, engine temp low. It's happy. That was on 37s and nothing else drivetrain-wise has changed.

Side note- one of the reasons I liked the 700r4 at first was its overdrive. I averaged 14 - 15 mpg on that drive.
1701190216982.png


I don't think it would do that now without a struggle. So... Do 40's really make that much of a difference? Or did I mortally wound my tranny when the relay running my tranny cooler fans died and I had to limp it back to camp with 250* fluid temps in 95* weather? Can torque converters get damaged by high heat?

06h3 said:
Glad to hear the expedition towed the jeep like a champ. My wife has been interested in those.
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At the risk of sounding like a boring old man, I really like this thing. It cost way too much money, but it drives amazing, gets decent milage for its size and was extremely easy to tow with.
 
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