Project: I have no idea what I'm doing (Moved from p4x4)

[Sandy Johnson]

sounds like high stall? i feel the rockshit feeling right away on mine and its a factory stall. i dont feel like i need to build up rpms to get over a rock or up a ledge. so this leads me to stall being high, witch builds heat. and if you were climbing up said rock and the tire blocked the fan, it may have been more heat was being built to climb. what kind of rpm s do you see when you do things like that, can you idle or do you need a bit of throttle? long winded sorry

A little bit of throttle needed. Not like an obscene amount, just a bit.

 

[YJLOPES]

sounds like high stall? i feel the rockshit feeling right away on mine and its a factory stall. i dont feel like i need to build up rpms to get over a rock or up a ledge. so this leads me to stall being high, witch builds heat. and if you were climbing up said rock and the tire blocked the fan, it may have been more heat was being built to climb. what kind of rpm s do you see when you do things like that, can you idle or do you need a bit of throttle? long winded sorry

I was going to say the same thing. Look for a lower stall converter.

 

[2big bronco]

Agree on the high stall. Grab something stock

 

[Rockwood]

Definitely stock stall. Will also help on the other side of the rock with engine braking

 

[Sandy Johnson]

Did some searching and I have doubts, but it's probably because I don't know shit about fuck.

There are a few people in this thread
https://irate4x4.com/threads/higher-stall-torque-converters-vs-stock-in-a-rock-crawler.379358/

Saying things like:

I run a 2000-2200 and it is perfect for my application. built 466, 40s, 4.10 gears, 6000#.

Or

When I built my Landcruiser with an LQ4, T400, and 4.3 Atlas, it had a stock converter in it, and I hated it. My problem was it would drive through the brakes in 4low

I'm less weight and lower gears than the top dude, and I'm right at the line where my rig feels like it wants to drive through the brakes in low range 1st gear with my 700r4 and 4.3

On the other hand, to me less squish and more matching motor rpms to wheel speed sounds like heaven.

This of course is all academic since I first need to find the time to pull my tranny pan and check my diff fluid, but... Is there any good way to find what your stall speed is if you didnt have anything to do with the install?

Maybe I just need someone smarter than into drive this thing and tell me how it feels to them?

 

[Rockwood]

From ATI:

Q: How do I determine my stall speed - is it different than flash?
A: In order to check your torque converter’s stall speed, put your vehicle in high gear and drive the car at 1 to 2 miles per hour. Push the gas pedal to the floor and note your flash on the torque. This is the same as your stall speed. DO NOT DO STALL TESTS ON CARS EQUIPPED WITH TRANSBRAKES. When speaking with your ATI sales rep or distributor, be as succinct as possible regarding stall speed and your converter. To converter builders, stall speed and flash mean the same thing. If you ask for 4500 stall, this means if you flash your converter from idle, it should go to approximately 4500 rpm. For example, a 4500 torque converter in your car will probably only footbrake to 3000 rpm before moving your car depending on the quality of your brakes. Furnishing as much information as possible to your sales rep ensures that you get the correct product you are looking for.

Your shit can wear the fuck out too, so what used to be a 3000rpm stall converter is now a 5000rpm stall.

 

[Sandy Johnson]

Push the gas pedal to the floor and note your flash on the torque.

 

[rattle_snake]

translation:
Put trans in 'D'. Apply heavy throttle. Note max RPM as vehicle starts to move. That is approximate stall (aka fluid going roundy-round)

My rig would drive through brakes in low, until I signifyingly improved brakes with hydroboost. Now I run a 6R80 with a stock converter.

 

[Sandy Johnson]

translation:
Put trans in 'D'. Apply heavy throttle. Note max RPM as vehicle starts to move. That is approximate stall (aka fluid going roundy-round)

 

[arse_sidewards]

Your shit can wear the fuck out too, so what used to be a 3000rpm stall converter is now a 5000rpm stall.

That's not really a reasonable possibility. If shit is cavitating inside the torque converter causing everything to loosen up you have other problems. Also that converter is gonna generate a fuckton of heat because it'll be less efficient.

 

[Sandy Johnson]

Also that converter is gonna generate a fuckton of heat because it'll be less efficient.

Well, ya. That's sort of where I'm at.. maybe?

 

[arse_sidewards]

Well, ya. That's sort of where I'm at.. maybe?

Really, really doubtful.

The parts in a torque converter (lockout clutch notwithstanding, obviously) don't even contact each other. They shouldn't be wearing any appreciable amount.

 

[Sandy Johnson]

Really, really doubtful.

The parts in a torque converter (lockout clutch notwithstanding, obviously) don't even contact each other. They shouldn't be wearing any appreciable amount.

What if I get it really really hot?

 

[Rockwood]

That's not really a reasonable possibility. If shit is cavitating inside the torque converter causing everything to loosen up you have other problems. Also that converter is gonna generate a fuckton of heat because it'll be less efficient.

Yeah yeah. You’re correct here: unless a vane chipped or something weird, definitely hard. I stand correctamundo’d.

What if I get it really really hot?

No clue what ATF’s pressure curve looks like, but hotter temps do make cavitation easier. Chances are everything in the 700R4 behind it shit the bed before this point though.