LORE Bronco restore

[Halogrinder]

well- intake is back at the machine shop waiting on another pass to be taken off....

Need to sort out the front driveshaft-
It totally won't work with the angle.
I guess I need a "tall" yoke, and CV? IDK. will work on that when I get it all back together.

I threw a new set of shocks on the back of the jeep and couldnt help myself :D

Threw a wheel on to make sure we're all good to go in the clearance department.

Messed with the brake setup.
Can't do much with it until i get the body on the truck so I can layout the prop valve and hose layout.
I need to find the pushrod between the booster and master though-

Worked on the ole' war pig a little too.
Minty flooring covered up with 80 mil deadener, some jute and new vinyl.
Those "preformed vinyl floors" are anything but. I could have done the same with a roll.
my hands hurt from cutting and forming this stuff lol

threw some seat covers on, and found the original build sheet.

 

[Halogrinder]

 

[rattle_snake]

Why dual shocks when you can have those remote reservoir ones valved well enough to work by themselves?
:)

 

[Halogrinder]

1. Because the truck came with dual shocks.
2. My dad I don't think wants reservoir shocks on his truck.
3. His Truck, his decision.

 

[Halogrinder]

Weekend update.
Got this thing back together, been driving it a bit. Came out alright.
4th time's a charm for the intake manifold to get it to fit- back at the machine shop again to get another .040 cut off of it.
The body is getting prepped to be sealed and guide coated before paint.

not sure why these photos look like a potato took them, or uploaded them. feking technology.
edited edit- reuploaded and now all is well

 

[Halogrinder]

After 5 cuts, I just couldn't get the original intake to work on the engine.
So, I bought a new intake and it dropped right on, no mods needed.
Very strange.
In any case, I still need to make impressions, and port match the intake to the heads- so I'm not able to fully assemble it yet- but I can certainly mock up the electronics and get that sorted out for the dyno.

 

[rattle_snake]

Which port is larger, manifold or head? if head, port match likely won't help.

The holley efi has only one baro sensor, so can only sense one side of a dual plane. Suggest a spacer that allows partial cross flow (Ex, Jomar PC), or an open one (with nitrous spray bars of course) if you run into tuning issues.

 

[Halogrinder]

Not sure. need to put some .060 paper in there, prussian blue everything and get a stamp to see how its looking.
Port matching will be better than not port matching, regardless.
I agree with what you're saying- I'm thinking of either notching the dividing bar, or putting a phenolic spacer with a notch

 

[Halogrinder]

So I've been daily driving the crew cab now for a month or 2, and smelled some gas occasionally....
A peek underneath and I noticed the sump of the midship tank was wet.....I wiped it off and it started POURING out 🤣 the rust was filling the pin hole,that turned into a 3/8" hole once I poked at it.
So, the tank came out.
Bummer- no one makes reproduction tanks, so you have to buy a midship tank for a regular/super cab truck, whack a hole in it, sweat the filler neck and breather out, cap it and move the filler to the back.
Figured now is the time to put a 100psi pump in the tank to an adjustable fuel pressure regulator on the upcoming coyote swap. Also put a new level sensor since it looked like mud inside there lol
Now to assemble, then smoke test it and make sure I have no leaks from my Hellen Keller welds 😁😁

 

[Halogrinder]

Smoke tested- it passed! :D

Got the drivetrain pulled, almost ready for dyno.
Waiting on break in oil. prime system, goop the dizzy and stab it.

 

[Halogrinder]

347 dyno worked out pretty good so far. This is a 6K rpm pull
Made 433/458. May have a little more in it- but I lost crank signal in the distributor on the last attempt to start it.
Weird.
I checked the CDI box, its got an orange LED.
Tap the white wire to it, and the coil plug wire sparks off, so I know the CDI and coil is good.
Measured Ohm reading on the dual sync distributor and it shows 1.9mOhm- so essentially open.
It should be 500-700 ohms. So, its currently sitting on the dyno waiting on Holley tech support on what's going on.
Amazing that MSD/Holley didn't make this sensor serviceable (a hall sensor)

 

[rattle_snake]

Nice numbers. sucks it's stuck on dyno. What cam are you running?

I built a TFS headed 347 for my 77 bronco long ago, it was fun to drive.

 

[Halogrinder]

Nice numbers. sucks it's stuck on dyno. What cam are you running?

I built a TFS headed 347 for my 77 bronco long ago, it was fun to drive.

Check the specs on the yootoob vijeo.
Holley with a little sweet talking is next day airing me a MSD pro billet distributor that has cam sync and is a magnetic pickup vs hall sensor.
While it's not a black hyper spark, this is a definite upgrade (double the price).
I call that a win. Should have Wednesday

 

[Halogrinder]

So now that it's back from dyno I wanted to sort out my internal clutch slave situation.
I originally bought a Wilwood external slave that would pull, so I was gonna make a little bracket off the tcase or trans, and drill a hole in the clutch fork to have it pull it back.
This brought a few issues of packaging and whatnot- nothing that couldn't be overcome- but Wilwood made the body of the unit move with the hydraulic hose- which I thought wasn't the smartest thing in the world. Now, you have a clutch hose thats moving every time you pushed in the clutch.
So, time to build a better mousetrap.
McLeod was the answer.

This is a Luk Clutch pressure plate, and an 11" clutch disc to go on the nv3550 from Tom's Bronco parts.
I'm hoping this clutch will hold up to the power now.

Initially I tried doing this with a tape measure, but it was ineffective at producing accurate enough results.
Yes, I know there isn't a clutch disc in these photos.
YOU HAVE TO HAVE THE CLUTCH DISC INSTALLED DURING MEASUREMENT! :D

I measured the input shaft of the NV3550 and went on McLeod Racing | Free Shipping From Selected Dealers! to go find something that may work.

 

[Halogrinder]

So I ordered one up

Here's the part number 1400-30
and the link McLeod Racing 1400-30 McLeod 1400 Series Hydraulic Throwout Bearings | Summit Racing

Whats in the BOX?!

This is whats in the box :D

She's a beut, Clark!

So, what's neat about this is how it's adjusted. this ring here can spin to adjust it's depth.

 

[Halogrinder]

I used some of this to lubricate the orings. Big fan of this for oring lube in general.

ploop
slid right one (after I scuffed the nose of the transmission and cleaned it)

So the object of the game is to get the TOB to be close to the PP. so you have to do some measuring
Again, using a tape measure was NOT accurate enough, I used a pair of calipers to do this, but holding calipers sucks trying to take a pic, so tape measure it is for you :D

In my case, I had to use the ring that is supplied to space it away from the transmission.

Messing with the ring, threading it out and the ring got me to within .100 of what I needed.

So, A combo of flat measuring stick devices, along with careful tongue holding eventually got me an average between one side and the other from the block to the face of the pressure plate.

 

[Halogrinder]

Without the bellhousing on it.

With the bellhousing on it, the hoses tight, and ziptied to keep it from moving around

Thru a new clutch fork boot.

I had to spin it "out" (closer to trans) to get the throw out bearing to spin with my finger, so i unbolted the trans, moved it back enough to push the hoses back in, and spun the whole thing one revolution inside the bellhousing. no biggie.

But, tadaaa!
She's ready to be bled and off we go!

Engine/trans/tcase are back in.
Waiting on Jess from Hi Angle to get me the rear output flange, and Wildhorses for a 32 spline output.
I should've done that before, but honestly didn't know the Dana 20 weakness, nor knew the actual power the engine was going to make.

 

[Halogrinder]

getting things done

 

[Halogrinder]

Sumbish is Chrome yellow, aint it :D

 

[rattle_snake]

looking sexy!

 

[Halogrinder]

Today was "clean up the cluster" day. Looks pretty good. The ultrasonic machine took the paint right off (it was cracking and peeling)....The speed line gave me major anxiety trying to freehand that. I'm not too impressed with the voltage gauge conversion from Classy gauges. The needle doesn't match, it's too long (I cut it down to match #yolo), and it's a sticker over some other Voltage gauge.... No bueno.....AND it's not the proper background shape. Lame. I 3D printed a cup as a masking line for the ring if I was going to paint it...... In any case, I asked my pops if he wanted this black or left in its chrome-ish appearance- so its staying like this lol

 

[Halogrinder]

Greenfields knocked it out of the park. Off to LineX of Houston to get the tub sprayed now.

 

[Penetrode Offroad]

Bitchin' setup!

 

[Halogrinder]

came out awesome

 

[Halogrinder]

Been working on the dash. I put a clear bra on the entire dash panel, then loaded it up.

 

[SLOWPOKE693]

That looks amazing!

 

[Halogrinder]

Got some boinger stoppers on there recently. Waiting on the body to get done from LineX now

 

[arse_sidewards]

What material did you use for those shock mounts? Any concern about them twisting the frame there?

 

[Halogrinder]

Those were welded on back in the day- I think James duff still sells them. They are 1/2" steel- and the abuse they took will survive its new life without issue. The biggest issue I had was going from ball joint style mount to a standard shock mount

 

[Winchested]

This is a wicked build. Love the hydraulic clutch setup you have made up! If I ever swap the IH mill in my Scout to something else I plan on a trans swap too. So that's soe great tech advice to follow!