Halogrinder
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LORE Bronco restore
- Thread starter Halogrinder
- Start date
Halogrinder
Well-known member
In all the google searching, no one had really good pics of a rotisserie mount for these things.
I found body carts, wooden frames, some random pics that showed paint jobs on top, some questionable mounting ways-
so here's how I did it.
I got some 2.5 box tubing, 20' sticks.
I cut them 14 feet long.
I'm using the most okayest chinesium made rotisserie, so it is what it is
The ends that mount to the rotisserie are square tube in 2" form. the end is cut at a 45 degree angle, and there is a 1/2" or so hole.
So, I took my rotabroach, and cut a 1/2" hole on one side of the tubing. on the other side, I cut a 3/4" hole. I slid a piece of 3/4" tubing inside and it butted up to the bottom of the mount/hole. I then put a chunk of allthread through it and now it's pinched the mount to the top of the square tubing, and secured it to the 2.5" tubing.
then, I welded a few nuts on 3 sides so I could "tune" the angle of the tubing mount inside my frame rails of 2.5" tubing. I initially drilled 2 holes per sides, but realized this is plenty strong as it is.
So, getting the square tubing square on the rotisserie was a little entertaining. The sliding mounts have some angle built into them im assuming to "lock" or wedge themselves onto the frame arms- so there was a little hammering/deadblow action to get them on/holes and tubing mounted/squared up and 26.5" wide which is the width of the mounts in the bed.
The "dumbass of the day" award for not wearing gloves and getting a big fat cherry in the pocket of my hand
I found body carts, wooden frames, some random pics that showed paint jobs on top, some questionable mounting ways-
so here's how I did it.
I got some 2.5 box tubing, 20' sticks.
I cut them 14 feet long.
I'm using the most okayest chinesium made rotisserie, so it is what it is
The ends that mount to the rotisserie are square tube in 2" form. the end is cut at a 45 degree angle, and there is a 1/2" or so hole.
So, I took my rotabroach, and cut a 1/2" hole on one side of the tubing. on the other side, I cut a 3/4" hole. I slid a piece of 3/4" tubing inside and it butted up to the bottom of the mount/hole. I then put a chunk of allthread through it and now it's pinched the mount to the top of the square tubing, and secured it to the 2.5" tubing.
then, I welded a few nuts on 3 sides so I could "tune" the angle of the tubing mount inside my frame rails of 2.5" tubing. I initially drilled 2 holes per sides, but realized this is plenty strong as it is.
So, getting the square tubing square on the rotisserie was a little entertaining. The sliding mounts have some angle built into them im assuming to "lock" or wedge themselves onto the frame arms- so there was a little hammering/deadblow action to get them on/holes and tubing mounted/squared up and 26.5" wide which is the width of the mounts in the bed.
The "dumbass of the day" award for not wearing gloves and getting a big fat cherry in the pocket of my hand
Halogrinder
Well-known member
taaadaaaaa
Twas nice to clean the floor finally.
I was pretty spent that day- I started this at 4pm and was done at 7.
So, the way i found my holes-
I squared the tubing under the back two body mount holes in the bed as best as possible, then squared under the core support area.
dropped all thread down the holes and used that to help a bit using 7/16" rod.
Cut 7" chunks and welded outriggers for the A pillars.
Repeat the dropping all thread thru the hole and looking for its target.
Repeat for the core support, but I put them on top of the rails rather than flush to suck up some of the distance.
nut in the bed/rod thru the body/washer/nut/shaft--- nut/washer/tube/washer/nut.
make sense? lol
pics make it easier.
Twas nice to clean the floor finally.
I was pretty spent that day- I started this at 4pm and was done at 7.
So, the way i found my holes-
I squared the tubing under the back two body mount holes in the bed as best as possible, then squared under the core support area.
dropped all thread down the holes and used that to help a bit using 7/16" rod.
Cut 7" chunks and welded outriggers for the A pillars.
Repeat the dropping all thread thru the hole and looking for its target.
Repeat for the core support, but I put them on top of the rails rather than flush to suck up some of the distance.
nut in the bed/rod thru the body/washer/nut/shaft--- nut/washer/tube/washer/nut.
make sense? lol
pics make it easier.
Halogrinder
Well-known member
Halogrinder
Well-known member
Now I have some fancy wall art.
tossed the frame onto the trailer and pressure washed
OH! And, I guess a 5.0 explorer serpentine belt system is a good way to go, to get a powerful alternator, get the water pump away from the radiator a bit, and also modernize the engine a bit.
Anyone have a lead on all the parts for it? I can't go to a junkyard i dont have the time-
AAAAAAAND I was heavily considering going to a hydroboost system instead of the vacuum set up i initially bought.
Cam selection and aesthetics are the reason now.
oh, and I also made this little frame thingie inside the body to help with rigidity. I made feet smaller than the footprint of the door jamb and hinges to allow paint to get under it. they were kinda a pain in the ass.
tossed the frame onto the trailer and pressure washed
OH! And, I guess a 5.0 explorer serpentine belt system is a good way to go, to get a powerful alternator, get the water pump away from the radiator a bit, and also modernize the engine a bit.
Anyone have a lead on all the parts for it? I can't go to a junkyard i dont have the time-
AAAAAAAND I was heavily considering going to a hydroboost system instead of the vacuum set up i initially bought.
Cam selection and aesthetics are the reason now.
oh, and I also made this little frame thingie inside the body to help with rigidity. I made feet smaller than the footprint of the door jamb and hinges to allow paint to get under it. they were kinda a pain in the ass.
Halogrinder
Well-known member
So I says to myself "self, i dont want to deal with mechanical clutch linkage- lemme make this more difficult and put hydraulic clutch stuff in it" lol
Ironically a creamer lid is the diameter needed to make a little templet : D
Ironically a creamer lid is the diameter needed to make a little templet : D
Halogrinder
Well-known member
Drilled the hole through my brake bracket. now I needed to do the body.
I got some linkage from the 'carr and amazon, and drilled/tapped the pedal.
Adjustability, the pedal already has an eccentric for pedal stop coming up- so I ordered another one to control the pedal going down. I can get full stroke of the master (1.25") doing this and can make a "pedal stop"
I got some linkage from the 'carr and amazon, and drilled/tapped the pedal.
Adjustability, the pedal already has an eccentric for pedal stop coming up- so I ordered another one to control the pedal going down. I can get full stroke of the master (1.25") doing this and can make a "pedal stop"
Halogrinder
Well-known member
Loaded the body up, and it's currently getting blasted then epoxy primered to seal the body. this was after hours of walking over the body inch by inch cleaning up welds, holes, flap disc/sanding them down
Halogrinder
Well-known member
then, I made some stands to hold the frame. the strap is temporary, I got some cable and a long turnbuckle to adjust it. hindsight, I would've drilled/tapped the blocks in the frame to hold it from the bottom two. they wiggle around a little
Yanked the axles. Tore them down.
Yanked the axles. Tore them down.
Halogrinder
Well-known member
Who needs complete drum setups front and rear?
Halogrinder
Well-known member
This is how I get spindles out. socket/turn wheel. repeat on the back ear.
wiggles them right out. easier on the truck turning the wheel, i did it with a deadblow on the steering arm
Found a powerlock in the front end. Will reuse this with the 4.56 gears
wiggles them right out. easier on the truck turning the wheel, i did it with a deadblow on the steering arm
Found a powerlock in the front end. Will reuse this with the 4.56 gears
Halogrinder
Well-known member
some questionable welds were on the truss....... so I ground them all out and put modern questionable welds from my Miller lol
.Found some shock part numbers if anyone is interested.... SSF 12387
.Found some shock part numbers if anyone is interested.... SSF 12387
Halogrinder
Well-known member
Getting blasted and Epoxy primered
Not done to the level I wanted, so maybe Friday I'll go get the body. I picked up the other stuff today.
Guys, please do research on who you use to blast.
Please maintain expectations on both sides of the check you write.
I clearly didn't communicate the level I wanted the body cleaned and seam sealer removed.
Burned 3 hours of my life today going down there with a trailer, and will do it again on friday... sheesh
Not done to the level I wanted, so maybe Friday I'll go get the body. I picked up the other stuff today.
Guys, please do research on who you use to blast.
Please maintain expectations on both sides of the check you write.
I clearly didn't communicate the level I wanted the body cleaned and seam sealer removed.
Burned 3 hours of my life today going down there with a trailer, and will do it again on friday... sheesh
Halogrinder
Well-known member
Got it back today. Gonna have to do some work that I've already paid for to be done- but its just not worth arguing with them. Fuck em.
The front skid plate had these torched out holes in it for some reason.
Fixed that up.
Monday lots of stuff go to powder coat.
The front skid plate had these torched out holes in it for some reason.
Fixed that up.
Monday lots of stuff go to powder coat.
Halogrinder
Well-known member
looks good from far, far from good. Fuck Fast blast in pasadena texas. don't use those assholes.
Halogrinder
Well-known member
took stuff apart.
Dropped it off at the powder coater.
Dropped it off at the powder coater.
Halogrinder
Well-known member
Then I got to working on where the dude missed spots on the sand blasting :rubs temples:
Everywhere you see green is from me grinding something off he missed, and throwing some acid etching primer on there to cover the bare metal.
I have a few spots on the body that have a pin hole or something that I need to weld up and then its time to smear every joint/crack/seam with some Lord Fuser 123EZ seam sealer.
Bought some 5/8x18 threaded shaft so i can make extensions on my bearing puller to pull the bearings off the center sections and pinions.
then, off to the machine shop to use the rod honing machine and make some setup bearings so i dont have to press them on and off a bunch of times.
Ordered a few things here/there, waiting for them to show up.
some 3/16 and 3/8 hard line for brake and fuel lines, a 9" third member tool so I can set it up on the engine stand, and some other random things to keep me busy while I wait for powder coating to be done.
I've got a few different bodyshops that are giving me bids after inspecting the body on who's motivated to do it, who doesn't want to, and who's realistically going to do it within a reasonable budget, with a quality job.
Yanked the column apart to replace the bearings, and clean it up.
Shaved the 3 speed fingers that came out of the bottom.
cut the shaft in anticipation for the flaming rivers ujoint setup I have but need to measure when its in the truck.
I got the old bottom bearing out by dropping the shaft in backwards, using a magnet to stick the steering wheel nut in there.... and bloop.
Everywhere you see green is from me grinding something off he missed, and throwing some acid etching primer on there to cover the bare metal.
I have a few spots on the body that have a pin hole or something that I need to weld up and then its time to smear every joint/crack/seam with some Lord Fuser 123EZ seam sealer.
Bought some 5/8x18 threaded shaft so i can make extensions on my bearing puller to pull the bearings off the center sections and pinions.
then, off to the machine shop to use the rod honing machine and make some setup bearings so i dont have to press them on and off a bunch of times.
Ordered a few things here/there, waiting for them to show up.
some 3/16 and 3/8 hard line for brake and fuel lines, a 9" third member tool so I can set it up on the engine stand, and some other random things to keep me busy while I wait for powder coating to be done.
I've got a few different bodyshops that are giving me bids after inspecting the body on who's motivated to do it, who doesn't want to, and who's realistically going to do it within a reasonable budget, with a quality job.
Yanked the column apart to replace the bearings, and clean it up.
Shaved the 3 speed fingers that came out of the bottom.
cut the shaft in anticipation for the flaming rivers ujoint setup I have but need to measure when its in the truck.
I got the old bottom bearing out by dropping the shaft in backwards, using a magnet to stick the steering wheel nut in there.... and bloop.
Halogrinder
Well-known member
shaved the hole.
Off to powdercoat
Got my seam sealer in-
the dual tube gun i have doesn't fit.
sigh.
Had to get some 5/8x18 shaft and nuts to run the bearing splitter under my press so I could get the carrier bearings off.
Test run on the next level of stupidity I'm doing lol
Need to adjust the heatshrink cut length now that I know how much it shrinks......
this should be neat looking
Off to powdercoat
Got my seam sealer in-
the dual tube gun i have doesn't fit.
sigh.
Had to get some 5/8x18 shaft and nuts to run the bearing splitter under my press so I could get the carrier bearings off.
Test run on the next level of stupidity I'm doing lol
Need to adjust the heatshrink cut length now that I know how much it shrinks......
this should be neat looking
Halogrinder
Well-known member
The bottom is almost done.
This Lord Fuser 123ez is actually pretty easy to work with if you follow this advice.
Plan on one tube to take about 3 hours.
Plan on destroying at least 3-5 shop rags.
"ACCEPT THE STICKINESS"
It's got a consistency of about honey- and it wipes off moderately easy off your hands.....
so make one booger picker on your hand "the finger" to smear/wipe/push/puddle it around.
It levels pretty well, even on it's side like this.
I dropped my second tube right on the freaking neck about 3 pumps in lol
It was making a mess blowing out the side of the tube, so I ended up cutting/mixing it on a cardboard chunk and using a putty knife to apply on places that's going to be bedlined.....
I wasn't going to let $65 in seam sealer go to waste- so now I have another tube coming to try and finish up the rest of the body where some somewhat accuracy and neatness needs to be done-
I'm doing every single seam/overlap/joint.
Why not. Do it once, do it right.3
got the frame, axles and a bunch of stuff back from powder coating
Started working on the rear diff.
4.56 gears, Track Lock limited slip, 31 spline axles and disc brakes are on deck.
Happy with the pattern that I've got on the 9".
This Lord Fuser 123ez is actually pretty easy to work with if you follow this advice.
Plan on one tube to take about 3 hours.
Plan on destroying at least 3-5 shop rags.
"ACCEPT THE STICKINESS"
It's got a consistency of about honey- and it wipes off moderately easy off your hands.....
so make one booger picker on your hand "the finger" to smear/wipe/push/puddle it around.
It levels pretty well, even on it's side like this.
I dropped my second tube right on the freaking neck about 3 pumps in lol
It was making a mess blowing out the side of the tube, so I ended up cutting/mixing it on a cardboard chunk and using a putty knife to apply on places that's going to be bedlined.....
I wasn't going to let $65 in seam sealer go to waste- so now I have another tube coming to try and finish up the rest of the body where some somewhat accuracy and neatness needs to be done-
I'm doing every single seam/overlap/joint.
Why not. Do it once, do it right.3
got the frame, axles and a bunch of stuff back from powder coating
Started working on the rear diff.
4.56 gears, Track Lock limited slip, 31 spline axles and disc brakes are on deck.
Happy with the pattern that I've got on the 9".
Halogrinder
Well-known member
Ugh. Organizing bolts sucks.
While waiting on new hardware, getting bolts and nuts cleaned up I jumped on the heater box.
Using Science to get rust off of it rather than mechanically blasting the rust off from a sand blaster.
A few runs through my ultrasonic cleaner and the original boot came out pretty dang nice!
While waiting on new hardware, getting bolts and nuts cleaned up I jumped on the heater box.
Using Science to get rust off of it rather than mechanically blasting the rust off from a sand blaster.
A few runs through my ultrasonic cleaner and the original boot came out pretty dang nice!
Halogrinder
Well-known member
New heater core, new foam
A big blower and motor from Toms Bronco parts, and she's back together ready to be dropped in when I get the body back
Powder coat came out pretty nice on this stuff. I'm an idiot, and didn't flap disc the factory weld spatter down before powdercoating it :/
A big blower and motor from Toms Bronco parts, and she's back together ready to be dropped in when I get the body back
Powder coat came out pretty nice on this stuff. I'm an idiot, and didn't flap disc the factory weld spatter down before powdercoating it :/
Halogrinder
Well-known member
I popped open the Centech wiring harness I got for it, and a few things come to mind-
One, this electrical taped bullshit is not going to fly.
Two, this incorrectly sized looming isn't going to fly.
Three, the instructions are marginal, at best- and that's being nice.
Four, there is no wiring harness schematic that comes with the kit.
Five, I emailed Centech asking if they had a legitimate wiring schematic for their harness and was told no, that is based on a factory harness (sort of).
This is disturbing to me.
I'm not putting a harness in that I can't diagnose or understand where everything goes- besides the fact that I'll be adding fuel injection, an additional fuel pump for the Aux tank to pump into the main, the main fuel pump, and lights.
So........ I guess I'll be laying this out, recording what's been written on the wires themselves, and making my own schematic to put in a binder.
Frankly this pisses me off that I have to do this.
Body shop painted a test panel for me
I LOVE my ultrasonic machine- it pulled this paint off the door latches.
I was able to save the door latches by ultrasonic cleaning them- it stripped all the paint off and made the original silver zinc coating look great!
Using more science to remove yuck from hardware and fasteners.
One, this electrical taped bullshit is not going to fly.
Two, this incorrectly sized looming isn't going to fly.
Three, the instructions are marginal, at best- and that's being nice.
Four, there is no wiring harness schematic that comes with the kit.
Five, I emailed Centech asking if they had a legitimate wiring schematic for their harness and was told no, that is based on a factory harness (sort of).
This is disturbing to me.
I'm not putting a harness in that I can't diagnose or understand where everything goes- besides the fact that I'll be adding fuel injection, an additional fuel pump for the Aux tank to pump into the main, the main fuel pump, and lights.
So........ I guess I'll be laying this out, recording what's been written on the wires themselves, and making my own schematic to put in a binder.
Frankly this pisses me off that I have to do this.
Body shop painted a test panel for me
I LOVE my ultrasonic machine- it pulled this paint off the door latches.
I was able to save the door latches by ultrasonic cleaning them- it stripped all the paint off and made the original silver zinc coating look great!
Using more science to remove yuck from hardware and fasteners.
Halogrinder
Well-known member
Ok. I'm done. Seam sealing sucks. I'm glad I'm done with it.
It's currently sitting at LineX waiting to be sprayed from the bottom
It's currently sitting at LineX waiting to be sprayed from the bottom
Halogrinder
Well-known member
Select for moderation
So I had the wheels PMI'ed (positive metal identification) to see exactly what the wheels were made of. My pops always said they were "mag wheels" and I've seen them referred to as such multiple times online. Well, a few things were Interesting.
1. The PMI inspector was confused🤔 . I mean, this dude does this for a living, and didn't know what was going on with the metallurgy he was seeing on his device. "This stuff is Greek to me. What the heck is going on" 🤣🤣
2. There was very low amounts of magnesium or relative metal compounds similar to magnesium during any of the readings. The cleaned areas don't react to water, and non magnetic.
3. The wheel kept showing rhodium in large amounts..... He brought the results to his engineer who confirmed. 🤔
4. We used a grinder mounted scuff pad and got a REAL clean area on the lip of the wheel. Notice how it shines? Still showed rhodium, no aluminum readings....
5.so we got a little aggressive and tried to get thru the rhodium to measure the substrate.... Nope.
So, apparently this stuff is a few mils deep into the wheel.....
So, all in all it was interesting. I think they are aluminum wheels and have some odd rhodium coating which is used in the jewelry industry to make it shine.
Any thoughts to my findings?
I'm hoping/excited to see how they polish up
Pulled the centech harness out to see how it lays out. Somewhat troubling that they won't/don't supply a wiring diagram for their own harness....
So, I wrote down all the terminal ends and guess I'll be making one myself. Pulling the alternator wire to the fuse panel and going directly to the battery, second fuel tank wiring, adding fuel pump(s), off-road lights and a few other things.
It would definitely make my life easier if I didn't have to make a blind road map but I kind of enjoy drawing out diagrams anyways. Call it a sickness 🤣🤣
So I had the wheels PMI'ed (positive metal identification) to see exactly what the wheels were made of. My pops always said they were "mag wheels" and I've seen them referred to as such multiple times online. Well, a few things were Interesting.
1. The PMI inspector was confused🤔 . I mean, this dude does this for a living, and didn't know what was going on with the metallurgy he was seeing on his device. "This stuff is Greek to me. What the heck is going on" 🤣🤣
2. There was very low amounts of magnesium or relative metal compounds similar to magnesium during any of the readings. The cleaned areas don't react to water, and non magnetic.
3. The wheel kept showing rhodium in large amounts..... He brought the results to his engineer who confirmed. 🤔
4. We used a grinder mounted scuff pad and got a REAL clean area on the lip of the wheel. Notice how it shines? Still showed rhodium, no aluminum readings....
5.so we got a little aggressive and tried to get thru the rhodium to measure the substrate.... Nope.
So, apparently this stuff is a few mils deep into the wheel.....
So, all in all it was interesting. I think they are aluminum wheels and have some odd rhodium coating which is used in the jewelry industry to make it shine.
Any thoughts to my findings?
I'm hoping/excited to see how they polish up
Pulled the centech harness out to see how it lays out. Somewhat troubling that they won't/don't supply a wiring diagram for their own harness....
So, I wrote down all the terminal ends and guess I'll be making one myself. Pulling the alternator wire to the fuse panel and going directly to the battery, second fuel tank wiring, adding fuel pump(s), off-road lights and a few other things.
It would definitely make my life easier if I didn't have to make a blind road map but I kind of enjoy drawing out diagrams anyways. Call it a sickness 🤣🤣
Halogrinder
Well-known member
Oh, hey would you look at that! holley performance gives you a wiring diagram of their products!
I especially like the "do's and dont's" of wiring in the back of the book 🤣🤣🤣
Threw a Lubelocker gasket in on the 9inch so I could assemble it.
Got my Plating back, some things will have to get redone. this is just some of it.
These were "fun" installing without chipping the paint
Buttoned up the 9 inch this afternoon
I especially like the "do's and dont's" of wiring in the back of the book 🤣🤣🤣
Threw a Lubelocker gasket in on the 9inch so I could assemble it.
Got my Plating back, some things will have to get redone. this is just some of it.
These were "fun" installing without chipping the paint
Buttoned up the 9 inch this afternoon
Halogrinder
Well-known member
The wheels barrrrrrrrrrrely clear lol
The outer pads drag the rotor a little bit. no combination of shims included in the disc brake kit changes it favorably.
I may have to take the outer pad out, give it a little brrrrrrrrrrt and put it back in. We'll see.
What I WILL tell you, is its a pain in the ass moving this thing on the wheels because of the limited slip in it now lol
The bolts in the front shock mounts are just there so I don't lose them. they go in the back to space the shock away from the caliper.
Had I known this I would've probably just cut the shock mount off and moved it over before powder coating.
Gathering my parts together for the engine. I had the original Intake manifold powder coated. Goofing off, I googled the part number.... sfjd-9425 f
So everything I've read shows it's a Shelby / Cobra intake. While it looks identical, my Intake doesn't have the "Shelby" casted into it (although it's got the flat spot where it would've been)
🤔🤔🤔
Anyone have any Insight?
been busy.
So, the plating on my Ubolts still suck- so they are going out with another batch of stuff to be replated once again- then I can put the axle under the truck.
I threw the leafsprings on the truck for some forward momentum and not be idle.
Here's some random body shop photo dumps.
We're using a high build primer (the buff color) over the epoxy primer.
Then, block out and see what we got- then either glaze, or repeat the high fill primer and block out again.
The outer pads drag the rotor a little bit. no combination of shims included in the disc brake kit changes it favorably.
I may have to take the outer pad out, give it a little brrrrrrrrrrt and put it back in. We'll see.
What I WILL tell you, is its a pain in the ass moving this thing on the wheels because of the limited slip in it now lol
The bolts in the front shock mounts are just there so I don't lose them. they go in the back to space the shock away from the caliper.
Had I known this I would've probably just cut the shock mount off and moved it over before powder coating.
Gathering my parts together for the engine. I had the original Intake manifold powder coated. Goofing off, I googled the part number.... sfjd-9425 f
So everything I've read shows it's a Shelby / Cobra intake. While it looks identical, my Intake doesn't have the "Shelby" casted into it (although it's got the flat spot where it would've been)
🤔🤔🤔
Anyone have any Insight?
been busy.
So, the plating on my Ubolts still suck- so they are going out with another batch of stuff to be replated once again- then I can put the axle under the truck.
I threw the leafsprings on the truck for some forward momentum and not be idle.
Here's some random body shop photo dumps.
We're using a high build primer (the buff color) over the epoxy primer.
Then, block out and see what we got- then either glaze, or repeat the high fill primer and block out again.
Last edited:
Halogrinder
Well-known member
The grill needs some love. Still working with it to see if it's going to be salvagable or we're going to buy a new one. Warped, cracked, rippled, dented and improperly blasted from that rotten sandblaster guy (don't use fast blast in Pasadena Texas!)
Halogrinder
Well-known member
Picked up the tub from LineX of Houston, and they freakin knocked it out of the park!
WOW! Looks amazing.
Tub is now at the body shop, too.
Got the front gears the way I wanted. Installed the inner and outer axle seals, and started assembling the front axle.
WOW! Looks amazing.
Tub is now at the body shop, too.
Got the front gears the way I wanted. Installed the inner and outer axle seals, and started assembling the front axle.
Halogrinder
Well-known member
Knuckles installed, king pin bearings and dampeners in. Preload I got them about 10-11 ft/lbs of turning torque.
Painted the axleshafts with POR15-
Painted the axleshafts with POR15-
Halogrinder
Well-known member
Lemme tell you about POR15 lol
That stuff goes A LONG WAY lolol
Holy crap. I can't believe how far and what coverage it has.
I used POR15 degreaser. I'm impressed with that- feels like its acidic. I diluted it about 1:4 or so.
I used it on a BMW at the shop that had an exhaust leak (diesel) and had soot EVERYWHERE.
It just melted the soot off vs purple power.
So, its worth getting.
Then, used the POR etching fluid. You keep it wet for 15-20 minutes. Then, wash it with water and fully dry it.
So I put a coat of POR15 on the engine block after doing the prep I described above.
Then, put a coat of POR engine enamel on top of it.
I'm VERY impressed how this stuff levels out.
Again, the coverage is bananas. I have 3 quarts of a gallon left over of the black...... after painting the forklift, hubs, rotor hats, trailer deck, fenders, railings, and other odd things lol!
Sheesh.
I have 7/8 or so of the pint left over of the blue enamel paint. Sheesh!
That stuff goes A LONG WAY lolol
Holy crap. I can't believe how far and what coverage it has.
I used POR15 degreaser. I'm impressed with that- feels like its acidic. I diluted it about 1:4 or so.
I used it on a BMW at the shop that had an exhaust leak (diesel) and had soot EVERYWHERE.
It just melted the soot off vs purple power.
So, its worth getting.
Then, used the POR etching fluid. You keep it wet for 15-20 minutes. Then, wash it with water and fully dry it.
So I put a coat of POR15 on the engine block after doing the prep I described above.
Then, put a coat of POR engine enamel on top of it.
I'm VERY impressed how this stuff levels out.
Again, the coverage is bananas. I have 3 quarts of a gallon left over of the black...... after painting the forklift, hubs, rotor hats, trailer deck, fenders, railings, and other odd things lol!
Sheesh.
I have 7/8 or so of the pint left over of the blue enamel paint. Sheesh!