What kind (brand model) of .243 bolt?So I am still correcting some dents through today, and more tomorrow. The more I have started examining the old truck, the more dings I am finding.
I have put together a strategy though and will remain true to the era (for the most part)... paint tech has come a long ways since the 70's.
Quick run down of the process
Dent repair~ The major ones were on body lines. This always sucks, aside of cutting and welding in patch pieces, ya got to pull them. And in this case getting to the inside was a no go on the cab. So stud weld and slide hammer. I also use washers cut in half and a different slide hammer with a hook. Then plug weld any holes that will happen with the mig, flap down and repeat as needed. Just about done with this step.
Smooth~ I'm kind of a crybaby when it comes to filler... I HATE BONDO. Evercoat or Upol are my go to brands. Evercoat Z-Grip is great for any base you know you will need a bit of filler on. Evercaot rage gold is great for that final pass. NO pinholes or bubbles when mixed right. And maybe a glaze for any areas that just need some touch-up. Saves a TON of time knocking crap down and sanding with those products.
Prime~ Because of trying to keep the thing fairly OG I decided to go with an enamel single stage paint on this one. I have painted with Acrylic Enamel before and when done right, comes out great, and it's true to the era. So the bare metals get a self etch primer (I'm going to leave intact as much of the original paint as possible) and then it gets sprayed with a 2k primer surfacer for build up.
Block sand~ I use an assortment of blocks and some home made stuff to wrap and sand with. At the end of the day, it's a truck... and NOT a show truck by any means. Just a cool weekend or even daily driver.
Paint~ I finally found a supplier to mix up the og pastel lime paint for me. I have used their stuff before and it lays down pretty decent for the price. AND fits the budget. Restoration Shops/ Custom Shop line of paint. For a gallon and a quart, plus reducers/ hardeners and primer it came to just under 600 bucks...
For now it's all prep work until I shoot. The painting takes about 2-1/2 hours from the time I start mixing until I put down the last coat (flash times and etc. add to that). The prep is literally 95% of the work.
So that's the plan for now.
I also ordered a TON of stuff for an interior makeover. Seat upholstery, door panels, dash, rubber flooring and etc. That will happen after paint more than likely. Also got a few exterior badges/ and new re-pop mirrors. Should be a cool old truck when done. Hopefully.
Oh, and STILL NO bed! Can't just let it sit though. I do have a line on a bed, but it will cost me a .243 bolt action rifle. A decent one too... SO fangers crossed.
Composite stock... I have had it for probably 12 years or so. Very little use, only hunted with it once and maybe 3 or 4 outings to sight it in and play with.If that has a wooden stock I’d have trouble giving it up. But, these truck beds are hard to find, so I get it.
If your rifle trade doesn't work, I have another bed from that 74 I bought, it has the toolbox on passenger side. I'd probably trade it for that parts truck rolling chassis, I'll shoot some pics, pm me your # if interested and I'll get you pics
It has upper trim, I think these have the little stud instead of holesThree questions on it...
Does it have trim? Mine does not, not opposed to filling a bunch of trim holes though.
What configuration are the gas tank hole/s? Mine has just ONE tank in the typical rear of the frame.
How much work does it need? I realize any bed I get will need some work, and I expect it. Just curious as to what kind of time I am looking at.