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Limey Bastard ~ 1974 F100 4x4 Resto

flecker

Rad Skull Member
Joined
May 20, 2020
Member Number
414
Messages
1,862
Location
White Mountains, AZ
I spent the last few evenings running in the engine and doing the front brakes... I forgot how much drums suck. :laughing: Should provide adequate stopping now though.

I tuned the engine up after the initial start up, had to pull the dizzy out because I had it 180* out. Easy to do if you are a homer :homer: and don't bother to check if it's on the compression stroke.

Got the carb about as efficient as I think it could be... idle air mixture held a 14 hg vacuum off the manifold, given my elevation of 7500' I figure thats decent. Dialed in the dwell to 28*, which is spot on and have the timing set at 10*btdc. It's a bit advanced from the 6* the book calls for, but again my elevation plays a role in that. And the idle rpm is right at 650 in Park. Sounding pretty decent. :grinpimp:

Vacuum gauge at idle~
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Dwell is set at 28*~
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Rpm's are good at idle, also charging at a steady 13.8V~
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Couple of videos of it running~



And the front brakes... Woop de doo. I was actually going to replace both the u-joins on the axles, but they were super clean and functioning well. And there were two new seals on the backside of the hubs, so they were more than likely replaced in the last 10K or so I am guessing. I did repack both sides wheel bearings and replaced both brake cylinders, lines, shoes and hardware. Just need to clean up and paint the drums and I will be done...

Front brakes done~

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Last edited:

flecker

Rad Skull Member
Joined
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Member Number
414
Messages
1,862
Location
White Mountains, AZ
So I have been pretty bust the last couple of weeks, but I start to assemble the panels yesterday. Put the hood on to straighten it up and started marking up the fenders to begin the straightening process. There's a couple of problem areas on the cab and door that will require some studs and slide hammer at the least. The fenders aren't too terrible, so they will get some body hammering and a sand and primer treatment. The hood is going to take a bit of work too, but nothing to crazy.
The floor boards on the other hand will need to be cut out and new ones welded in place. The drivers side took the brunt of of it over the years...

I have a crap ton of other things going on, but will update as I make some progress.

Starting point:

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Definitely got my work cut out...
 

flecker

Rad Skull Member
Joined
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Member Number
414
Messages
1,862
Location
White Mountains, AZ
Just now got to start on the body work today... Pulling dents is just tons of fun. :laughing: About got the bulk of them ready to spread some filler over. I also managed to finally find some paint with the original pastel lime 4a paint code. Hopefully it's a close enough match to the OG... REALLY don't want to have to shoot the inside of the cab. Also have a ton of parts on order to get the thing back to original shape. After a bunch of back and forth I have decided to just keep it as original as possible. Would probably help resale value a ton when I decided to part with it.

Pics.
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I managed to salvage the door... Lots of massaging with a body hammer and a lot of tapping on the inside of the door skin. It should all skim out pretty good at this point.

:grinpimp:

Will probably have another full day tomorrow working dents, then another day of filler and sanding. May shoot some 2k epoxy primer this weekend to spot prime the cab and get it ready for sand and paint.
 

Projectjunkie

Whatever
Joined
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Member Number
306
Messages
2,083
Location
Tucson Az
Please do something cool with the wheels:emb:

Maybe 15x10 poverty wheels, argent with 32x11.50 muds?

I couldn't find a ford pic, but I think something like this would look great on yours:smokin:

b59c1ff3d75f13f946139454006308f2.jpg
 

flecker

Rad Skull Member
Joined
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Member Number
414
Messages
1,862
Location
White Mountains, AZ
I have a set of 16" wagon wheels with some 32's on them. They have plenty of life left.... but they aren't plain jane stockers. :flipoff2:

I got a hair up my butt about maintaining the stock appeal for some reason. Already ordered some 235/ 75/15's to wrap around the original wheels. Found some og dog dish's too for hub caps.

I do really like the look of the stance on that one you posted above though.
 

Projectjunkie

Whatever
Joined
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Member Number
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Messages
2,083
Location
Tucson Az
On muscle cars, they call it "day 2"

Vintage torque thrusts, 4bbl and exhaust

Kinda the difference between your grandpa buying it, and your macho uncle wanting it souped up a bit

My 67 bronco had ford a.c., bumpers, warn winch, 2"lift and headers installed in 67, it was a timeless look IMO


After I pulled the yellow fog lights and big mirrors:laughing:
 

flecker

Rad Skull Member
Joined
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Member Number
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Messages
1,862
Location
White Mountains, AZ
So I am still correcting some dents through today, and more tomorrow. The more I have started examining the old truck, the more dings I am finding.

I have put together a strategy though and will remain true to the era (for the most part)... paint tech has come a long ways since the 70's. :laughing:

Quick run down of the process

Dent repair~ The major ones were on body lines. This always sucks, aside of cutting and welding in patch pieces, ya got to pull them. And in this case getting to the inside was a no go on the cab. So stud weld and slide hammer. I also use washers cut in half and a different slide hammer with a hook. Then plug weld any holes that will happen with the mig, flap down and repeat as needed. Just about done with this step.

Smooth~ I'm kind of a crybaby when it comes to filler... I HATE BONDO. Evercoat or Upol are my go to brands. Evercoat Z-Grip is great for any base you know you will need a bit of filler on. Evercaot rage gold is great for that final pass. NO pinholes or bubbles when mixed right. And maybe a glaze for any areas that just need some touch-up. Saves a TON of time knocking crap down and sanding with those products.

Prime~ Because of trying to keep the thing fairly OG I decided to go with an enamel single stage paint on this one. I have painted with Acrylic Enamel before and when done right, comes out great, and it's true to the era. So the bare metals get a self etch primer (I'm going to leave intact as much of the original paint as possible) and then it gets sprayed with a 2k primer surfacer for build up.

Block sand~ I use an assortment of blocks and some home made stuff to wrap and sand with. At the end of the day, it's a truck... and NOT a show truck by any means. Just a cool weekend or even daily driver.

Paint~ I finally found a supplier to mix up the og pastel lime paint for me. I have used their stuff before and it lays down pretty decent for the price. AND fits the budget. Restoration Shops/ Custom Shop line of paint. For a gallon and a quart, plus reducers/ hardeners and primer it came to just under 600 bucks...

For now it's all prep work until I shoot. The painting takes about 2-1/2 hours from the time I start mixing until I put down the last coat (flash times and etc. add to that). The prep is literally 95% of the work. :homer:

So that's the plan for now.

I also ordered a TON of stuff for an interior makeover. Seat upholstery, door panels, dash, rubber flooring and etc. That will happen after paint more than likely. Also got a few exterior badges/ and new re-pop mirrors. Should be a cool old truck when done. Hopefully. :grinpimp:

Oh, and STILL NO bed! Can't just let it sit though. I do have a line on a bed, but it will cost me a .243 bolt action rifle. A decent one too... SO fangers crossed.
 

FleshEater

Ordinary Average Guy
Joined
May 21, 2020
Member Number
832
Messages
1,872
Location
Shithole in the Rust Belt
So I am still correcting some dents through today, and more tomorrow. The more I have started examining the old truck, the more dings I am finding.

I have put together a strategy though and will remain true to the era (for the most part)... paint tech has come a long ways since the 70's. :laughing:

Quick run down of the process

Dent repair~ The major ones were on body lines. This always sucks, aside of cutting and welding in patch pieces, ya got to pull them. And in this case getting to the inside was a no go on the cab. So stud weld and slide hammer. I also use washers cut in half and a different slide hammer with a hook. Then plug weld any holes that will happen with the mig, flap down and repeat as needed. Just about done with this step.

Smooth~ I'm kind of a crybaby when it comes to filler... I HATE BONDO. Evercoat or Upol are my go to brands. Evercoat Z-Grip is great for any base you know you will need a bit of filler on. Evercaot rage gold is great for that final pass. NO pinholes or bubbles when mixed right. And maybe a glaze for any areas that just need some touch-up. Saves a TON of time knocking crap down and sanding with those products.

Prime~ Because of trying to keep the thing fairly OG I decided to go with an enamel single stage paint on this one. I have painted with Acrylic Enamel before and when done right, comes out great, and it's true to the era. So the bare metals get a self etch primer (I'm going to leave intact as much of the original paint as possible) and then it gets sprayed with a 2k primer surfacer for build up.

Block sand~ I use an assortment of blocks and some home made stuff to wrap and sand with. At the end of the day, it's a truck... and NOT a show truck by any means. Just a cool weekend or even daily driver.

Paint~ I finally found a supplier to mix up the og pastel lime paint for me. I have used their stuff before and it lays down pretty decent for the price. AND fits the budget. Restoration Shops/ Custom Shop line of paint. For a gallon and a quart, plus reducers/ hardeners and primer it came to just under 600 bucks...

For now it's all prep work until I shoot. The painting takes about 2-1/2 hours from the time I start mixing until I put down the last coat (flash times and etc. add to that). The prep is literally 95% of the work. :homer:

So that's the plan for now.

I also ordered a TON of stuff for an interior makeover. Seat upholstery, door panels, dash, rubber flooring and etc. That will happen after paint more than likely. Also got a few exterior badges/ and new re-pop mirrors. Should be a cool old truck when done. Hopefully. :grinpimp:

Oh, and STILL NO bed! Can't just let it sit though. I do have a line on a bed, but it will cost me a .243 bolt action rifle. A decent one too... SO fangers crossed.
What kind (brand model) of .243 bolt?
 

Projectjunkie

Whatever
Joined
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Member Number
306
Messages
2,083
Location
Tucson Az
If your rifle trade doesn't work, I have another bed from that 74 I bought, it has the toolbox on passenger side. I'd probably trade it for that parts truck rolling chassis, I'll shoot some pics, pm me your # if interested and I'll get you pics
 

flecker

Rad Skull Member
Joined
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Member Number
414
Messages
1,862
Location
White Mountains, AZ
If your rifle trade doesn't work, I have another bed from that 74 I bought, it has the toolbox on passenger side. I'd probably trade it for that parts truck rolling chassis, I'll shoot some pics, pm me your # if interested and I'll get you pics

Three questions on it...

Does it have trim? Mine does not, not opposed to filling a bunch of trim holes though.
What configuration are the gas tank hole/s? Mine has just ONE tank in the typical rear of the frame.
How much work does it need? I realize any bed I get will need some work, and I expect it. Just curious as to what kind of time I am looking at.

:grinpimp:
 

Projectjunkie

Whatever
Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
306
Messages
2,083
Location
Tucson Az
Three questions on it...

Does it have trim? Mine does not, not opposed to filling a bunch of trim holes though.
What configuration are the gas tank hole/s? Mine has just ONE tank in the typical rear of the frame.
How much work does it need? I realize any bed I get will need some work, and I expect it. Just curious as to what kind of time I am looking at.

:grinpimp:
It has upper trim, I think these have the little stud instead of holes

It has the toolbox on pass side, pass side is pretty straight

Drivers side has 2 fuel fillers, no doors, though I've put 90s doors on these before

Drivers side has a ton of dings above the trim line

I have no idea what's up with the paint on drivers side, it makes no rhyme or reason, I think somebody told a 12yo they could restore grandpa's truck and he got 2 rattle cans in before quitting :laughing:

I have no idea how bad your bed is, or if mine is even an upgrade to yours

If you're interested, I'll make sure there's no repairs under the paint, I'll pull the bed liner looking for rust, and could include the side tank and brackets if you'd rather add a tank than delete the hole
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flecker

Rad Skull Member
Joined
May 20, 2020
Member Number
414
Messages
1,862
Location
White Mountains, AZ
I will think on this one man... was really hoping to get the other, because it's local. If the guy doesn't get back with me soon, I will definitley look you up on this.
 
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