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Know when to hold ‘em know when to fold em

Keep or replace my old POS?

  • Replace my old pos with a new pos?

    Votes: 22 33.8%

  • Fix and keep running my old pod?

    Votes: 43 66.2%
  • Total voters
    65
Glow plug maybe? Just head gasket out the push tube galley. I think those things break rockers bad?

Finger's 🤞
 
That sucks! I know there are cummins 5.9 swap kits and I think cummins 6.7 swap kits for those 6.4 fords.
 
5k might cover the sales tax on a new one:shaking:

If you love the tk...swap it with a 12v...pretty sure you can get decent hp with a 3k gov spring and fuel plate..

My 98 12v was decent....not like a v8 diesel. But decent...

I'm a big fan of the v8 diesel empty and running around town..with a trailer I prefer the cummins..tows better down low...just not a race horse...imo :flipoff2: ymmv

Sucks about the truck..
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Damn man, that sucks. :(

Let me know if you want pointers on how to drop a Cummins in that thing :flipoff2:
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Don't listen to this dude. He's been dicking around for months on getting accessories hooked up.
JR4X said:
What hp can you reliably get a P pump 12V up to? I have a 97 12V with less than 150k on it.
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I've been running mine with a S362 over S475 compound set making 600/1150 at the wheels for well over 200K miles. I have to keep an eye on the pyrometer because mechanical engine, but it has done everything I have ever asked of it, without all the electronic nannies.

If you are serious about a Fummins swap, I would spend the coin and do a proper 6.7 swap. A stock 6.7 will run circles around the best built 5.9L.

While I'm usually not an ATS fan, they do have all the electronics figured out to mate a 6.7 to your truck and make everything work together as if it were a factory built pickup.
CarterKraft said:
Glow plug maybe? Just head gasket out the push tube galley. I think those things break rockers bad?

Finger's 🤞
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Also no. 6.0 and 6.4 have the glow plugs in the rocker box, not underneath the valve cover. OP's truck had valve train components or an injector exit stage left.
 
JR4X said:
What hp can you reliably get a P pump 12V up to? I have a 97 12V with less than 150k on it.
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No idea, I personally wouldn't put a 12v in that new of a truck. I'd do a 6.7 if I were to do it.

But really, id probably just look at a 6.7psd for your use. The more stock the better for your use.

Maybe build the 6.4 up, but it just seems hard to justify.

Johnny Longrifle said:
Don't listen to this dude. He's been dicking around for months on getting accessories hooked up.
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No shit, it was a joke :homer:

feel free to post every step of your build so we can all pick it apart as well.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
No idea, I personally wouldn't put a 12v in that new of a truck. I'd do a 6.7 if I were to do it.

But really, id probably just look at a 6.7psd for your use. The more stock the better for your use.

Maybe build the 6.4 up, but it just seems hard to justify.



No shit, it was a joke :homer:

feel free to post every step of your build so we can all pick it apart as well.
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If any option is going to cost $20k cash or more to make it useable again I’ll probably have to fold em and buy a whole other truck.
 
Sucks on the truck issues but at least it was close to somewhere to stash it. Bad luck in tow = good luck on race days.
 
Well, shit. No doubt the Cummins swap would give reliability, but does the one you have make the power you need/want? Is it capable of it while still maintaining reliability? How available are parts when you’re on the road?

I’d have made the same decision you did to fix this one. My luck would be about as good as yours too.

I’m not seeing many superdutys on lots right now. Brand new XL’s are about it. Anything used is still selling within days.
 
JR4X said:
If any option is going to cost $20k cash or more to make it useable again I’ll probably have to fold em and buy a whole other truck.
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I think the cost is going to come down how you value your time as much as it is buying parts. Talking completely out my ass but I’d imagine a Cummins 6.7 swap would be somewhere around $10k-$12k in parts plus your time in the swap itself plus sorting out the inevitable little issues after a swap.

Personally I’d just get an 11-16 6.7 Powerstroke truck since their values are way down right now compared to the aluminum bodied trucks, you like the body style, and it will still perform well towing. I think you’d be unhappy in a mechanically injected truck after experiencing a common rail truck as long as you have, they’re just better in pretty much every way from a drivability/livability perspective.
 
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I’m all in on the idea of a 6.7 cummins swap.

And I know the work involved….I’ve done several late model engine swaps with too many electronics. It will be a lot of work but badass.

Also, don’t listen to me because I’m a moron and like to spend too much money on old garbage.

:flipoff2:
 
I don’t know guys. I’m driving a 17 Ram with a 6.7 as I type this and while I’m not complaining. This is not like my truck (was). If I swapped a 6.7 in and this is all I got for the time and money I’d be pretty disappointed.

I wouldn’t be qualifying today if it wasn’t for getting to borrow this thing. Test drive side by side I wouldn’t pick this over the 6.4.
 
JR4X said:
I don’t know guys. I’m driving a 17 Ram with a 6.7 as I type this and while I’m not complaining. This is not like my truck (was). If I swapped a 6.7 in and this is all I got for the time and money I’d be pretty disappointed.

I wouldn’t be qualifying today if it wasn’t for getting to borrow this thing. Test drive side by side I wouldn’t pick this over the 6.4.
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They do make parts to “bulletproof” a 6.4 idk how “bulletproof” they actually become but you could rock out for another 200k theoretically.

Edit: your post is reminding me of the times I have been in your shoes, I’ve had multiple engine failures where where your mind is racing, thinking of 17 options, all while trying to get where you’re going. It’s no fun. Enjoy the race.
 
Snowy said:
I think the cost is going to come down how you value your time as much as it is buying parts. Talking completely out my ass but I’d imagine a Cummins 6.7 swap would be somewhere around $10k-$12k in parts plus your time in the swap itself plus sorting out the inevitable little issues after a swap.

Personally I’d just get an 11-16 6.7 Powerstroke truck since their values are way down right now compared to the aluminum bodied trucks, you like the body style, and it will still perform well towing. I think you’d be unhappy in a mechanically injected truck after experiencing a common rail truck as long as you have, they’re just better in pretty much every way from a drivability/livability perspective.
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:lmao:

Ya, right, try double that.

Engine alone will be probably half that.

Agree with the second half.
 
arse_sidewards said:
The way you drive? Stock if you're lucky. :laughing:
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I wasn’t pushing it harder than I ever have but maybe a little to hard for a 208K mile geriatric of a truck. Loaded trailer I’m pulling only weighs about 9,500 pounds. Cruise set on 75 pulling a long hill. I just happened to be looking at the monitor when it let go. 40 psi boost EGT’s holding at 1206°. It sounded like a tire blow out and there was smoke everywhere. Pulled over and when I opened the door I could see it had motor oil dripping off the steps.

Best road side diag we could do (because you can’t see shit on a 6.4). Live monitor says #8 isn’t contributing. Looks like it broke half the bolt heads off the pass side valve cover. While it’s running the valve cover is flapping and clanking like the rain fly on a tractor. Goes psh psh psh psh but not as loud as say a 5.4 when it spits a plug. Was a gallon low on oil after being completely full only 30 minutes prior. I don’t think it windowed the block but I only messed with it while waiting for Grandpa to come save me.
 
JR4X said:
I don’t know guys. I’m driving a 17 Ram with a 6.7 as I type this and while I’m not complaining. This is not like my truck (was). If I swapped a 6.7 in and this is all I got for the time and money I’d be pretty disappointed.

I wouldn’t be qualifying today if it wasn’t for getting to borrow this thing. Test drive side by side I wouldn’t pick this over the 6.4.
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Is the Ram tuned and deleted? Because you may as well compare apples to apples. I've towed a fair amount in a stock 6.4 and they're turds. The 2011 6.7 psd(lowest output year) that replaced it, would absolutely blow its doors off.

Either 6.7 has potential to make more power than your current 6.4. Although I don't see why more than 450hp is ever really needed in a pickup, especially at the cost of reliability.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Although I don't see why more than 450hp is ever really needed in a pickup, especially at the cost of reliability.
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So you can be going a reasonable speed at the end of the on-ramp while grossing 45k.


Of course, this comes at the cost of requiring the self control to not also pull a grade at "reasonable speed" when grossing 45k. :laughing:
 
arse_sidewards said:
So you can be going a reasonable speed at the end of the on-ramp while grossing 45k.


Of course, this comes at the cost of requiring the self control to not also pull a grade at "reasonable speed" when grossing 45k. :laughing:
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Would probably take more than that :laughing:

My work truck is 38k lbs and I think 350hp with the C&c spec 6.7 psd. It's definitely slow up the hills.

I would be curious how these newer trucks actually put power down when loaded heavy. I'd imagine the computer cuts power as everything heats up. There's no way it's giving it the full fuel at the top of a grade grossing that kind of wieght.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Is the Ram tuned and deleted? Because you may as well compare apples to apples. I've towed a fair amount in a stock 6.4 and they're turds. The 2011 6.7 psd(lowest output year) that replaced it, would absolutely blow its doors off.

Either 6.7 has potential to make more power than your current 6.4. Although I don't see why more than 450hp is ever really needed in a pickup, especially at the cost of reliability.
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Yeah it’s dereted. Still not apples to apples though. Single canned tow tune vs my 5 stage selectable
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Maybe build the 6.4 up, but it just seems hard to justify.
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06h3 said:
They do make parts to “bulletproof” a 6.4 idk how “bulletproof” they actually become but you could rock out for another 200k theoretically.
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I mentioned this earlier up in the thread but it's the biggest achilles heal of 6.4s these days.
He was getting lucky with his factory installed 6.4 right up until now. Many 6.4s didn't make it past warranty, and even more didn't make it past 150-200k for design decisions in the engine related to the def-less dpf. (according to the lore I've read)

The main crux of 6.4s these days is that there are no good cores left. 6.4s had a reputation of trashing every component of an engine when they went, leaving nothing salvageable, and 15 years of many of them doing that, combined with the fact that they were only offered for 2 years and then discontinued entirely, means there's no such thing as new cores or good cores.
OEM Ford parts have been having terrible lifespans in 6.4s for 10 years now. New engines installed at a dealer (my uncle's direct experience) rarely make it more than 30k without an issue.

Tl;Dr I hoped JR was going to have a rainbow baby of a 6.4 but it mechanical'd exactly when most other people's did if they made it past 100k The 6.4 lifespan is over and there's no saving it even with emissions bulletproofing. He's either Fummins swapping or getting a newer truck.
 
Have you considered a gm truck duramax.

Not sure on your brand preference but there is alot of ford talk in here with dodge parts:flipoff2:
 
YotaAtieToo said:
:lmao:

Ya, right, try double that.

Engine alone will be probably half that.

Agree with the second half.
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Yeah, I thought it would be significantly more but this is Irate, where everyone knows a guy that did his Cummins swap for less than $5k out of spare parts behind the shop :shaking:

Figured $5k for a junkyard engine and ECM/harness, $1-2k for a trans/tcase, plus whatever else nickel and dimes you to absolute death on a swap for swap parts that don't fit, etc.
 
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