Know when to hold ‘em know when to fold em

[Tiha]

That is awesome. Glad you are liking it. Seems like they are all a little different.

On my 2014 I was getting 18 factory stock. Deleted I think I saw 18.5 once for one trip.

But comparatively my 2016 has never gotten over 17 on the exact same trips. These are identical trucks. Cept one is a lariat and one is a platinum. Same tires, same gear ratios, same everything.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

That is awesome. Glad you are liking it. Seems like they are all a little different.

On my 2014 I was getting 18 factory stock. Deleted I think I saw 18.5 once for one trip.

But comparatively my 2016 has never gotten over 17 on the exact same trips. These are identical trucks. Cept one is a lariat and one is a platinum. Same tires, same gear ratios, same everything.

I think there was a few turbo differences?

 

[Tiha]

I think there was a few turbo differences?

Yes, the hp and torque ratings went up in 2016. To me the 2016 shifted weird, crude even. Pedal response was different too.
Maybe it had more power, but didn't feel like an upgrade over the 2014.

 

[JR4X]

I think there was a few turbo differences?

Yes. 11~14 has a weird turbo. 15 up just have big variable vane turbo like a Duramax or common rail Cummins has.

My favorite feature on the new truck aside from the decent fuel mileage is the exhaust brake. Even though it’s not a real exhaust brake it works really well. Tow/Haul with the exh brake on lets cruise control hold the truck and load back all by itself. No brake pedal on decent’s with even a moderately heavy trailer.

 

[Snowy]

I hear adding the big D to these new 6.7's makes a big power difference on top of the fuel milage increase.

If your use case isn't putting the truck in active regen all the time, there will be very little mileage gain with a delete. Regens take about a gallon of fuel and I regen once every 400-500 miles or so. I'm also hooked to a big trailer 90% of the time so the soot load is almost always zero since I'm in passive regen under load.

Totally different story if you're using the truck on short trips unloaded when they go into active regen more often.

Well, probably no one will see this because of an assassination attempt on our former president yesterday.

Had a killer trip in my new 6.7 truck yesterday. I did 826.5 miles in 13 hours and did not stop for fuel. I think I could squeeze 900 miles between fuel ups but that’s gonna be coming in in E. The lieometer says 19.2 mpg but hand calculated was 17.8 mpg and still got 826 miles on a single tank of fuel. That might not impress others but I’ve never had a truck that would do that. My ol 6.4 would have needed a couple top offs.

But the internet says that new everything sucks and don't bother with a new diesel since the last good ones were 12v's and 7.3's

 

[Levigarrett76]

Yes. 11~14 has a weird turbo. 15 up just have big variable vane turbo like a Duramax or common rail Cummins has.

Ric Flair

 

[YotaAtieToo]

If your use case isn't putting the truck in active regen all the time, there will be very little mileage gain with a delete. Regens take about a gallon of fuel and I regen once every 400-500 miles or so. I'm also hooked to a big trailer 90% of the time so the soot load is almost always zero since I'm in passive regen under load.

Totally different story if you're using the truck on short trips unloaded when they go into active regen more often.



But the internet says that new everything sucks and don't bother with a new diesel since the last good ones were 12v's and 7.3's

I'll admit I'm frustrated with mine. Shit milage even with very low load. Then, it seems to like to hit 100% soot load right when I pull in the driveway.

Regen prompt is activated in foreskin, but I still don't see anything at 80%+

But then hook 30k lbs behind it and it's

I'd bet most people touting the 12v and 7.3 never really pulled the same load back to back with both. Because 20k lbs gross in my 7.3 was a workout and in the 6.7 you could hand the keys to anyone.

 

[Snowy]

I'll admit I'm frustrated with mine. Shit milage even with very low load. Then, it seems to like to hit 100% soot load right when I pull in the driveway.

Regen prompt is activated in foreskin, but I still don't see anything at 80%+

But then hook 30k lbs behind it and it's

I'd bet most people touting the 12v and 7.3 never really pulled the same load back to back with both. Because 20k lbs gross in my 7.3 was a workout and in the 6.7 you could hand the keys to anyone.

I totally get that. Mine was frustrating on a 10 mile commute because it could never finish a regen. I'd never see more than 13 or 14 mpg in mixed driving. One day I'll actually see a soot load high enough and see if I can get that message to pop up to make sure I'm not imagining it. Daily driver car was the best mod for it on my short commute.

Hooked to the trailer, you're 100% right. It's a cheat code compared to my 7.3 truck.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

I totally get that. Mine was frustrating on a 10 mile commute because it could never finish a regen. I'd never see more than 13 or 14 mpg in mixed driving. One day I'll actually see a soot load high enough and see if I can get that message to pop up to make sure I'm not imagining it. Daily driver car was the best mod for it on my short commute.

Hooked to the trailer, you're 100% right. It's a cheat code compared to my 7.3 truck.

I don't commute with it. I drive it here and there, but mostly just for trips.

Over 4th, we left for a ~150 mile each wag trip at like 90%. Did it's thing, cleaned, ect. Didn't even pay attention to it all weekend. Then I scrolled over to see like a mile from the house and it's at 95% then 100% right before our turn off the highway I passed our turn to head up the 7% grade, hoping it would at least clean a bit. Drove a few miles up, nothing, then said fuck it and just went home as we'd been camping for 3 days and the last thing I want to do is drive around aimlessly. Ended up doing a forced parked regen just so it was able to be driven without doing a long drive.

Also, in foreskin, it showed it was actually 138%

Had it gave me a prompt at 80%, it would have been probably done by the time we got home.

 

[Gravy]

Yes. 11~14 has a weird turbo. 15 up just have big variable vane turbo like a Duramax or common rail Cummins has.

My favorite feature on the new truck aside from the decent fuel mileage is the exhaust brake. Even though it’s not a real exhaust brake it works really well. Tow/Haul with the exh brake on lets cruise control hold the truck and load back all by itself. No brake pedal on decent’s with even a moderately heavy trailer.

The exhaust brake is a game changer. It was worth every penny spent on a newer truck.

Shuts everything down

 

[CarterKraft]

As we we're coming through cottonwood pass and the 15 mph switchbacks I was thinking this is a eyes wide open experience in a really capable truck (2-3rd gear exhaust brake no brakes needed) I can imagine what it would have been like in my 7.3 excursion, 4 speed auto and 3.73 rear.


Also JR 6.4 was probably really stupid powerful, that's one thing about the 6.0/6.4 they were too powerful for their own good.
Back when I did r&d for a local diesel tuner a stock but tuned 6.0 would embarrass a lot of shit, corvettes, mustangs etc.
The 6.4 was even better just not necessarily stronger...

 

[YotaAtieToo]

My buddy had a bone stock 6.0 besides a tuner that would boil off both 37s like nothing, even from a roll

 

[TrailTamer]

JR4X I wonder won’t you mind if I ask this in here? I’ll delete & post elsewhere if you do mind.

I been looking and can’t find it. I think this thread will be most appropriate to ask this. Have anyone seen a good blog/article or video on how a properly hot rodded 12v Cummins running tow tune (meaning no rolling coal, <1,200*F preturbo EGT and at least 400RWHP) stack up to outgoing stock 3/4 & 1 ton diesels? Ideally on the Ike Gauntlet.

Bonus if theres a comparison or at least a demonstration how aftermarket exhaust brake perform on the way back down.

On a side note I don’t think a full mechanical diesel will hold a candle to modern diesel, at least not cost efficient, for power band and responsiveness. But as a tow rig that’s less of an issue for me, as it’s not a race truck lol.

 

[JR4X]

JR4X I wonder won’t you mind if I ask this in here? I’ll delete & post elsewhere if you do mind

This is as good a place as any if the thread title doesn’t keep the people you’re trying to attract from talking Cummins stuff.

I find it difficult to find comparisons that aren’t just some 20 something kid talking smack on YouTube. I would love more information on turned up mechanically injected diesels.

I have this article saved as a reference but more data points is always better

500HP On A Budget: 12-Valve Cummins Edition

There is always more than one way to skin a cat—but this is the most effective means of squeezing 500rwhp out of your 12-valve Cummins.

www.drivingline.com

 

[Pocahontas]

JR4X I wonder won’t you mind if I ask this in here? I’ll delete & post elsewhere if you do mind.

I been looking and can’t find it. I think this thread will be most appropriate to ask this. Have anyone seen a good blog/article or video on how a properly hot rodded 12v Cummins running tow tune (meaning no rolling coal, <1,200*F preturbo EGT and at least 400RWHP) stack up to outgoing stock 3/4 & 1 ton diesels? Ideally on the Ike Gauntlet.

Bonus if theres a comparison or at least a demonstration how aftermarket exhaust brake perform on the way back down.

On a side note I don’t think a full mechanical diesel will hold a candle to modern diesel, at least not cost efficient, for power band and responsiveness. But as a tow rig that’s less of an issue for me, as it’s not a race truck lol.

Modern diesel will walk a 12v or even a cr engine, assuming both are tuned and at 100% biggest difference is the transmission. Keeping a tranny behind an older tuned diesel is alway a balancing act. Best tuning with maps and different real world testing, not just some kid shooting off his mouth, I’ve seen is on 4bt swaps but not really as much 6bt stuff.

Best I heard it explained was a mechanical diesel is a carb, you know you can get it to work with solvent and cleanish “fuel” no matter where in the world you are. A modern diesel is an efi set up it works great 99% of the time but if you get into problems it’s going to be expensive and involved.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

Modern diesel will walk a 12v or even a cr engine, assuming both are tuned and at 100% biggest difference is the transmission. Keeping a tranny behind an older tuned diesel is alway a balancing act. Best tuning with maps and different real world testing, not just some kid shooting off his mouth, I’ve seen is on 4bt swaps but not really as much 6bt stuff.

Best I heard it explained was a mechanical diesel is a carb, you know you can get it to work with solvent and cleanish “fuel” no matter where in the world you are. A modern diesel is an efi set up it works great 99% of the time but if you get into problems it’s going to be expensive and involved.

I agree, I don't think it's really even close, but I plan to compare them when I (eventually) get mine going. I'm hoping for 350 usable hp. I figure turbo is key, which currently is just a stock 351 CR turbo. They make around that stock, so I don't think it's out of line. I think more is very possible, again with the correct turbo, just worry about clutch and trans at that point.

The carb comparison is good, kinda why in both gas and diesel they can compete in all out hp, like drag or pulling. But 450hp with good road/towing manners is a whole different animal.

12v p pump doesn't even have dynamic timing, so that's a giant disadvantage.

 

[Snowy]

I'll admit I'm frustrated with mine. Shit milage even with very low load. Then, it seems to like to hit 100% soot load right when I pull in the driveway.

Regen prompt is activated in foreskin, but I still don't see anything at 80%+

But then hook 30k lbs behind it and it's

I'd bet most people touting the 12v and 7.3 never really pulled the same load back to back with both. Because 20k lbs gross in my 7.3 was a workout and in the 6.7 you could hand the keys to anyone.

I don't drive the dually much non-towing, but my DD got hit from someone running a red light so it's been pressed into service this week. Got home with a 95% soot load today and wanted to run an operator controlled regen so it didn't get halfway done regenning on my next short trip to town. Commanded with no problem at all for me.

New video by Connor Lund

photos.app.goo.gl

 

[YotaAtieToo]

I don't drive the dually much non-towing, but my DD got hit from someone running a red light so it's been pressed into service this week. Got home with a 95% soot load today and wanted to run an operator controlled regen so it didn't get halfway done regenning on my next short trip to town. Commanded with no problem at all for me.

New video by Connor Lund

photos.app.goo.gl

Mine was a poverty package

Also not so worried about it anymore

 

[Snowy]

Mine was a poverty package

Also not so worried about it anymore

Oh shit, forgot you done blowed up. What’s the plan with it now? Another Cummins swap?

 

[YotaAtieToo]

Oh shit, forgot you done blowed up. What’s the plan with it now? Another Cummins swap?

It's gone, didn't want the can of worms of trying to stuff a used engine in it, just to sell it anyway

 

[Snowy]

It's gone, didn't want the can of worms of trying to stuff a used engine in it, just to sell it anyway

That experiment didn’t last long. Sucks

 

[YotaAtieToo]

That experiment didn’t last long. Sucks

Ya, I mean I get that stuff fails, but ya, it really sucks the one time I owned something with an expensive engine, I only got 10k miles out of it at least when the 7.3 went out, I had owned it like 10 years, 140k miles and only paid $5k for the truck to begin with.